1998c280estate

Hi all,
I've just finished replacing the control arm suspension bushes (aka front lower wishbone), front lower ball joints and steering damper on my 96k 1998 C280 Estate which I've owned from new (freeing the lower ball joints was a major pain - another story). Both the Haynes and Bentley manuals say I should now have the wheel/chassis/steering alignment checked (and I've seen posts mention this) but I can't see why. Everything goes back together in the same position it was originally, and there's nothing anywhere that can be adjusted (except the steering track rod ends, and they weren't touched other than simply separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle and then re-attaching). The raised shoulders of the big suspension bolts fit in the slots in the mountings snugly. I've driven the car on short runs in town and at highway speed and it handles perfectly with no pull, wander, judder, etc, exactly as it always has. Am I missing something? I know you can get special MB suspension bolts which can adjust camber etc, but why would I need these?
Thanks, John

DeLaRey

Hi John

If it's not too expensive, do the check for peace of mind

1998c280estate

Thanks DeLaRay. There's a place near here that does 4-wheel alignment using the recommended Hunter system for £88 (around $100) but, being a Scotsman, I'm naturally reluctant to part with the cash while the car's behaving so perfectly. I've owned the car from new, and I'm pretty sure the alignment has never been checked as the car handles perfectly, tyre wear is normal and I've never hit a kerb etc. I used MB OE parts for the refurb and the bits I replaced were hardly worn at all. Maybe if I keep and eye on tyre wear and handling and have the check if there's any deterioration?

maksi

actually, the rule of thumb for your inquiry is that whenever you touch any of the under chassis ie. suspensions and stuff your need to have it aligned to make sure that your tires will wear out properly and also to have your steering pointing in the right direction whenever you drive straight. i have this OC behavior that bothers me alot if my steering wheel is not properly aligned.

also, this won't cost alot compared to the pre mature tire wear that you'll have if your neglect to align it.

in my case, i usually have mine aligned after i rotate my tires every 10,000kms.

the rewards are just enormous.

just my two-cents worth. . .

till next.

mabuhay!

GARYofCDF

I was searching the net trying to find me the cheapest lower arm for my monies and came across this thread so i thought i would offer an opinion of what knowledge i have gathered working in the Mercedes network for 10years.
I have just this week pranged my w202 C230 into a kerb with no thanks to the terrible cold icy weather!!!

If alignment was to be carried out on any such w202 and adjustment was needed with the camber castor then this would be done via the two mounting bolts which go through the chassis drop out plates through the centre of the bush and out to the bolt and washer.

I hear what you said about there being no problems before and if you say that you for instance painted or marked the original positions and then put the new replaced bushes and arm parts back on exact then there may not be any need to check alignment.

With my vehicle it will need adjustment when offering up a new part as the lower arm folded upon absorbing the energy of the car hitting the kerb.
I think my camber is already screwed and beyond adjustment as i run a w202 with chopped springs for that extra low european look.
Camber on a w202 can only be adjustment to + or - 20' (minutes) beyond that then its screwed.
This is done via a special bolt supplied by Merc which is splined and inserted via the funny knobbly teeth in the centre of the bush at certain angles which the alignment machine will show via readings.

1998c280estate

Hi Gary,

I had a look at the special MB replacement grooved suspension bolts you mention which can be fitted to adjust camber, although it's hard to see how they achieve this as the centres of the suspension bushes through which they pass looked pretty smooth to me. What do the grooves connect with (I didn't see any knobly teeth)? Also, the chassis drop-down plates have oblong holes in them (to take the oblong shoulders on the underside of the heads of the original bolts), so I couldn't see how the flat-headed replacement bolts would sit properly. I must be missing something. Anyway, I didn't take them as I didn't think I needed them.

I don't think there's any way to adjust castor on a W202 is there? (other than simply replacing the damaged suspension components?).

I didn't mark anything to aid reassembly, as everything goes back together as it came apart, with no adjustment possible anywhere (other than toe, which wasn't disturbed).

If you have to replace the LCAs, it's probably worth considering the Lemforder ones (from Eurocarparts) which come complete with new bushes already installed? I've asked around and they appear to be of high quality.

I've run the car for some time now, and it still drives perfectly, with no pulling/judder/wander, and no obvious tyre wear visible (yet...). I'll report back if anything develops.

John