Oxygen Sensor Recommendations
05-23-2011, 12:18 PM
#1
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Mercedes Benz 2000 C280
Oxygen Sensor Recommendations
I have a 2000 C280 that has tossed a couple of codes
1) P0141 - indicating a bank 1 position 2 O2 sensor
2) P0170 & P0173 - (general consensus seems to indicate a MAF sensor replacement)
Regarding #1 - autohauz has 5 different sensors (2 pre cat & 2 post cat) as well as a 'universal' sensor - which just happens to be cheaper - they are all BOSCH. Does anyone have a recommendation regarding an exact part replacement or just swapping them all with the 'Universal' O2 sensor?
I am currently experiencing a hard start condition i.e. car catches after 3 - 10 starts, When it fires it runs slow until - presumably engine management takes over. I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pressuer regulator (i.e. planning on swapping the filter) Any ideas?
1) P0141 - indicating a bank 1 position 2 O2 sensor
2) P0170 & P0173 - (general consensus seems to indicate a MAF sensor replacement)
Regarding #1 - autohauz has 5 different sensors (2 pre cat & 2 post cat) as well as a 'universal' sensor - which just happens to be cheaper - they are all BOSCH. Does anyone have a recommendation regarding an exact part replacement or just swapping them all with the 'Universal' O2 sensor?
I am currently experiencing a hard start condition i.e. car catches after 3 - 10 starts, When it fires it runs slow until - presumably engine management takes over. I'm thinking I have a bad fuel pressuer regulator (i.e. planning on swapping the filter) Any ideas?
05-23-2011, 02:23 PM
#2
I'm a new C280 owner myself (wife's car). I replaced both oxygen sensors recently and went with the Bosch custom fit on the pre-converter and Bosch universal on the post-converter.
First step is clear the codes and see if any are ancient and do not return.
The pre-converter sensor is a tight fit and you want to prevent the wiring from getting near the driveshaft.
The post-converter sensor has a longer cable, which has to be spliced, and there is more room to work. Be aware that this sensor is hard to remove and I had to break the body of the old sensor to get it out. The four wires match in color and splice easily enough (two white wires are for the heater and have no polarity).
I bought mine at Amazon. Shop around for prices and you will be surprised at the variation in parts pricing.
Changing the fuel filter is a good idea. The one on mine was partially restricted and caused a high speed miss.
First step is clear the codes and see if any are ancient and do not return.
The pre-converter sensor is a tight fit and you want to prevent the wiring from getting near the driveshaft.
The post-converter sensor has a longer cable, which has to be spliced, and there is more room to work. Be aware that this sensor is hard to remove and I had to break the body of the old sensor to get it out. The four wires match in color and splice easily enough (two white wires are for the heater and have no polarity).
I bought mine at Amazon. Shop around for prices and you will be surprised at the variation in parts pricing.
Changing the fuel filter is a good idea. The one on mine was partially restricted and caused a high speed miss.
06-18-2011, 10:18 AM
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2008 R350, 1997 C280 SEDAN
97' C80 Oxygen Sensors
I'm a new C280 owner myself (wife's car). I replaced both oxygen sensors recently and went with the Bosch custom fit on the pre-converter and Bosch universal on the post-converter.
First step is clear the codes and see if any are ancient and do not return.
The pre-converter sensor is a tight fit and you want to prevent the wiring from getting near the driveshaft.
The post-converter sensor has a longer cable, which has to be spliced, and there is more room to work. Be aware that this sensor is hard to remove and I had to break the body of the old sensor to get it out. The four wires match in color and splice easily enough (two white wires are for the heater and have no polarity).
I bought mine at Amazon. Shop around for prices and you will be surprised at the variation in parts pricing.
Changing the fuel filter is a good idea. The one on mine was partially restricted and caused a high speed miss.
First step is clear the codes and see if any are ancient and do not return.
The pre-converter sensor is a tight fit and you want to prevent the wiring from getting near the driveshaft.
The post-converter sensor has a longer cable, which has to be spliced, and there is more room to work. Be aware that this sensor is hard to remove and I had to break the body of the old sensor to get it out. The four wires match in color and splice easily enough (two white wires are for the heater and have no polarity).
I bought mine at Amazon. Shop around for prices and you will be surprised at the variation in parts pricing.
Changing the fuel filter is a good idea. The one on mine was partially restricted and caused a high speed miss.
06-20-2011, 08:42 AM
#4
Oxygen sensor replacement
I am sure that others have covered it, but I'll give you my procedure:
Raise the passenger side of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
Using a small floor jack to support the muffler at the rear bumper, remove the rubber mounts from the muffler and the pipe just ahead of the driver's side halfshaft. Lower the jack and let the muffler hang.
Under the vehicle, force the exhaust system down a bit lower by using a piece of pipe or wood. The rear sensor is hard to access and you have to get some room to get tools into its location. The sensor is nearly parallel to the exhaust pipe.
Disconnect the rear sensor plug and remove the wiring from the support clips. You will find that a regular oxygen sensor socket will not fit over the body of an OEM sensor. A crow's foot wrence will fit but I could not loosen the sensor on my car with it. I finally broke the body of the old sensor with a chisel and got a 22mm six point socket on the nut to loosen and remove the sensor.
If you use a generic sensor, take the old sensor (or harness) and mark and cut the new wires to get the same overall length for the wiring. I installed heat shrink tubing and soldered the new rear sensor to the old harness but the splices will work equally well.
If there isn't any anti-seize on the new sensor threads, put a small amount of the compund on the threads and install it into the exhaust pipe.
Move forward and find the front sensor, which is near the front driveshaft flex joint. This sensor is more vertical and easier to remove. After installing the sensor, reconnect the plug and make certain that the wiring will not come into contact with the drive shaft. Repeat the process with the rear sensor and then remove the pipe or wood holding the exhaust sytem away from the body. Raise and replace the rubber hangars on the exhaust system.
I used a Bosch generic sensor for the rear position but an OEM fit for the front sensor. I have had no more trouble with fault codes after replacing the sensors.
Raise the passenger side of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
Using a small floor jack to support the muffler at the rear bumper, remove the rubber mounts from the muffler and the pipe just ahead of the driver's side halfshaft. Lower the jack and let the muffler hang.
Under the vehicle, force the exhaust system down a bit lower by using a piece of pipe or wood. The rear sensor is hard to access and you have to get some room to get tools into its location. The sensor is nearly parallel to the exhaust pipe.
Disconnect the rear sensor plug and remove the wiring from the support clips. You will find that a regular oxygen sensor socket will not fit over the body of an OEM sensor. A crow's foot wrence will fit but I could not loosen the sensor on my car with it. I finally broke the body of the old sensor with a chisel and got a 22mm six point socket on the nut to loosen and remove the sensor.
If you use a generic sensor, take the old sensor (or harness) and mark and cut the new wires to get the same overall length for the wiring. I installed heat shrink tubing and soldered the new rear sensor to the old harness but the splices will work equally well.
If there isn't any anti-seize on the new sensor threads, put a small amount of the compund on the threads and install it into the exhaust pipe.
Move forward and find the front sensor, which is near the front driveshaft flex joint. This sensor is more vertical and easier to remove. After installing the sensor, reconnect the plug and make certain that the wiring will not come into contact with the drive shaft. Repeat the process with the rear sensor and then remove the pipe or wood holding the exhaust sytem away from the body. Raise and replace the rubber hangars on the exhaust system.
I used a Bosch generic sensor for the rear position but an OEM fit for the front sensor. I have had no more trouble with fault codes after replacing the sensors.
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domwild (02-28-2018)
02-28-2018, 09:16 PM
#6
Here in Oz the OEM O2 sensor before the catalytic converter costs AUS$1,000 or about US$750. There is an eastern European selling from 56mm long ones to 35mm long ones all claiming to be the one to fit my particular vehicle, which is a C220 CDI diesel W204. How can that be? I will get the OEM number from the Merc dealer and then ask again. The error code on my MB2 diagnostic is "Short circuit". I am still getting a reasonable diesel consumption, so I am wondering if it is worthwhile to replace anyway.
Is it worthwhile to get that special tool also to remove an O2 sensor? There are two types and do they all fit?? Too many questions, too little time!
Is it worthwhile to get that special tool also to remove an O2 sensor? There are two types and do they all fit?? Too many questions, too little time!
