power seat issue-intermittent operation (help)
For those needing the part number it is 002 542 22 19 and I got one on eBay for about $35.
I'm certain you could take the relay out, pop the cover off, and fix the bad soldering yourself as noted above. I don't have a soldering iron but for this who do and want to save a few bucks this is a great option.
One more thing though, the forward and back up options now work, but tilting the backrest forward and back still only works intermittently(mostly doesn't). Is there a different relay for that? Only my driver side is electronic btw, the passenger side is manual.
Thanks,
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Use Rostrom's pictures to locate the relay and carefully pull it from the socket (you may need a small flathead screwdriver). The one I have has the part #002 542 2219.
Use a small flathead screwdriver and gently pry the plastic housing off.
Work on both the left and right sides, not the top(label) and bottom.
Pry this side and the opposite, about 3mm deep.
Examining the circuit board, you will be impressed by its workmanship. No solder cracks. This part will survive a nuclear blast. It is unlikely to be the cause of the problem.
Mercedes Benz-worthy
Underneath the control board, you will find the electromagnet and the contact switches.
Note the contacts at center of the photograph.
A relay is an electromechanical switch. A small current is supplied from the seat controls to the electromagnet. The electromagnet will close the switch which will deliver a large current to the seat adjustment motor. The motor has a large inductance. When the current is suddenly interrupted, high voltages are developed and arcing occurs (similar to pulling the power cord from a running electric fan and observing arcing at the plug). Over time, the contact may corrode and may form an intermittent connection.
Clean the surfaces of the contacts carefully. (There is another set of contact surfaces hidden from view in the photograph.)
You can use a thin (2mm) piece of 1000 grit sandpaper from a hardware store or a piece of printer paper (2mm) soaked in alcohol.
Temporarily replace the cover (the circuit board will slide into grooves in the casing). Don't snap it shut yet. Test it in place. If you are satisfied, then secure the relay housing.
First one shows the plastic deck piece that is found once you take out the carpet. Red circles show the screw caps that you unscrew to remove deck.

Next photo shows the location of the relay. These tend to have a bad weld inside so needs to be replaced.
Final photo is close-up of the relay (put part number into eBay to find a replacement).

I hope this helps. This is a very common problem in W202's but an easy fix.
Last edited by j_nolesfan; Sep 22, 2015 at 03:07 PM. Reason: New info.
First one shows the plastic deck piece that is found once you take out the carpet. Red circles show the screw caps that you unscrew to remove deck.

Next photo shows the location of the relay. These tend to have a bad weld inside so needs to be replaced.
Final photo is close-up of the relay (put part number into eBay to find a replacement).

I hope this helps. This is a very common problem in W202's but an easy fix.
Sorry the picture is so bad, but the cracked connection is circled. The other connections were fine. The biggest problem I had was finding my soldering iron, which I couldn't so off to walmart to buy another for $10.
If you've never soldered before, it's really easy in fact. Just get it really hot and scrape off the solder that is already there. Make sure the new solder you use is OK for electrical work (it has to be resin base). And so once you have the connection cleaned up, take the tip of the soldering iron and press it against the component you want attached to the board. Let it get hot, then take the solder and also push it against the component with care not to let the solder touch the soldering iron. The soldering iron will immediately melt the solder and give you a bad connection that is likely to crack again. So the key here is to get that little tooth really hot enough so it will melt the solder on its own. Once that happens. you'll have a good weld.
I don't think anyone explained that in the thread so I wanted to chime in. I have a picture of the repaired relay but it's blurry and I was excited to test it out so nothing good to post. But the seats worked immediately so I'm guessing that was it.
BTW, I did burn my finger pretty badly in the repair, not that I need to go to a hospital or anything but it will hurt for at least a few days so be careful as even someone whose done it before can get hurt.
Last edited by mickey13; Sep 11, 2016 at 07:01 PM.
We're "Messing About" with a W210 [1996] Diesel (U.S. Specfications)
That "May Be" (If It's even Possible) "Phantom-ly" operating it's own
Passenger side front Seat [With no Humans present] and thus depleting
the main Battery.
Short of having a "Go Pro" type camera (operated by motion) watching the
seat overnight...
A couple of times the chassis has been found with the passenger seat fully
forward.And no humans have operated it.
__________________________________________________ __________
It's been suggested that a rather super expensive micro-amperage tester
(Like about 2500.00 USD) will reveal all ... [But forget that]
The same entity suggested testing the relays involved for Thermal emissions
But that's just as expensive.
__________________________________________________ __________
I'm liking the Theory that there's some kind of carbon buildup in the Actuating part of the Relay that allow intermittant "Self Operation" of
the relay and thence the Seat Motor.
and reflowed all of the connections. (a couple were visibly bad under 10x magnification). Replaced and the seat gremlins are gone.
Spot on advice. Thank you so much.
I have teen daughters driving so we need to be able to raise/lower the driver's seat.
I swapped the Relay Electric Seat Adjustment OEM 002 542 22 19, in the trunk from Left to Right, but the seats behave the same. Fuses in trunk and under hood appear to have continuity.
Can someone offer next steps in diagnosis?
Thanks,
CigarXO
I exchanged the white ones, no behavior change. I know I replaced the green on in the past, but I think that was a different repair...
W. Cauble email:williamcauble@hotmail.com
Last edited by William Cauble; Jun 22, 2020 at 12:38 PM.







