mcbc220

1994 C220. 96,000 miles. First owner had it for 17 years and put on 43,000 miles. I've had it since 2011 and put on the other 43k! I've had the wiring harness fixed and replaced the serpentine belt and transmission upshift knob. Regular oil changes, but (because I was dumb and young and took my mechanic's advice) never the transmission fluid or any other fluids. I only know how to change the oil myself and don't have space to learn how to do, or do, other repairs. I have the money to buy a new car, but I try to spend wisely.

Here are the issues:

1. Transmission is starting to have issues (occasionally slipping gears and hard shifts). Mechanic guessed it has about 6 months left on it.
   
2. He said the engine seals should also be replaced because it's been inconsistently driven (it sat for basically 9 months of the year while I was in law school, and the first owner obviously didn't drive it much).
   
3. The suspension also needs to be replaced. Is there any part of the suspension that wouldn't need to be replaced after 23-24 years?
   
4. Nasty crack formed in the last 3 months from a pebble on the highway. Windshield needs to be replaced.
   
5. Front left turn signal lamp housing snapped off in the carwash last weekend.
   
6. Door locks don't work automatically. I don't care about this but just wonder if it's a sign of something bigger.

I think I also need new brakes in the next 10k or so.

Roughly how much would all that run me since I can't do the work myself? Any other issues at this age/mileage that are reasonably likely to arise? Occasionally I get a very very slightly rough idle (but just barely above 500 RPMS, so I'm not worried yet), don't think it's urgent though. I see stuff about MAFs and motor mounts--should I anticipate those coming up?

In the alternative, I could get a stripper BMW 2 series (like the car) for 33k out the door, put half down, 320-ish per month, GEICO mechanical breakdown insurance, and drive for 7 years/100k and assess how troublesome it's been then. It'd be nice to have, but the Mercedes doesn't feel like it's at death's door. It drive great 90% of the time minus the suspension issues. If I could get 5 more years out of the car, I'd keep it, but if I'm going to be spending $3000+ a year, then forget it.

RollTideW163

I can't relate all that much to your situation because as an owner-mechanic, your situation is exactly why I learned to do my own work.

Firstly, I would be very excited to find a C220 with those miles, especially if the exterior and interior were in good shape. I would be shocked if you get more than 3k for it if you live anywhere near me (I didn't look prior to this screen) - but whoever buys it for 3k would get way more than their money's worth. So I think the secondary value is below its intangible worth as an inline 4 MB, with excellent gas mileage and a smooth ride.

1) Don't listen to your mechanic about your transmission.

What he told you means "I don't know what's wrong with your transmission." Most mechanic's don't fix transmissions. It's a lot of work, and the hours they would bill you would be the same as buying a new transmission. Same reason they don't diagnose individual valves, just give you a new valve body and call it a day.

You could have something as simple as a modulator, or as serious as a brake band. If you don't want to get your hands dirty or don't have the inclination to learn about it, a lot of your decision is made right there and the guy like me you sell your car to will have a nice time and feel great fixing it after putting in some not-so-easy work.

Does your suspension feel bad or is this something mr. genius mechanic is telling you?

There are various rubber parts that can be replaced as well as shocks, the latter which is super easy - so it is entirely unlikely that your entire suspension needs to be replaced. Rubber has about an 8 year life, so if you have had that sitting outside for long periods of time, a lot of your rubber could be in bad shape, less than ideal but NEED to be replaced like YESTERDAY - maybe not.

The other issues seem benign - a windshield can be had for 250 installed, and you can get a light at the junkyard for like 20 bucks.

I'm not going to recommend you get a BMW on a Benz forum. If anyone does recommend that to you they are on the wrong forum or are making fun of you

If you do however, get a 3 5 or 7 series - all the "weird" BMW number series are retarded, I don't care what they do.

mcbc220

Thank you!

I'm actually in the SF Bay Area as well, on the Peninsula.

1) I don't really have the time or space or inclination to learn how to get my hands dirty with something as serious as a transmission job right now. For what it's worth based on feel—some days, the transmission feels fine. Other days, I notice that it's slipped out of the right gear on the highway (long after the engine has warmed up) and really feel the rough shifts. I drive gently, so it's not because I'm thrashing the crap out of it.

2) The suspension doesn't feel great. It feels a lot looser, bouncier, and "older" than when I got the car. I've parked it in a carport for most of my ownership, so it's been somewhat covered but not inside. If I were to keep the car, it would be with the intention of getting another 5+ years and 60k+ miles, so I would be fine with doing more than the bare minimum if it meant I got a better ride—but not if it's just throwing money away on premature repairs.

3) As I've started paying more attention, I'm also noticing that sometimes the car feels down on power when I'm trying to pass on the highway or get up to speed. It's never been a fast car, but I don't remember it feeling like the engine was—to use an untechnical term—delayed or "choked" when I need to pass or get out of someone's way. Reminds me more of my dad's old W123 diesel. But maybe this is just memory playing tricks on me.

As for the BMW—the new C-class is too big for me. But point taken!

RollTideW163

If you are slipping in all gears, it could be modulating pressure - something as simple as a loose vacuum hose. If you feel like getting under the car and pressing down on all the hoses you see. It could be a modulator too, which in the world of transmissions is easier to replace.

Any other repetitive type of deal,like always slips from 2-3, you can get to diagnosing a valve or "scarier" component that would be better off in your situation to get a new transmission and put it in yourself, because having someone do it will not be worth the money probably.

Suspension could also be just your shocks, thats enough to feel bad.

The C220 is one of the weaker cars from passing standpoint, I have owned one and loved it. If you downshift however, you should be able to have the speed you need. Old plugs, wires and other tune up parts can also give you general weakness.

It sounds to me that you are probably better off with another vehicle, as this sounds like much more of a project car than youd be interested in spending a lot of time on.

Where did you go to law school btw? I went to GGU for a year before I decided I would be much happier going back to investment management.

mcbc220

So, I've been driving the car some more, and I'm starting to wonder if I have a serious transmission problem at all. I'm noticing that the tranny has trouble on two specific stretches of highway—on 280 Northbound near the 92 juncture (since you're from the area) when the lanes slope downhill. It's always in these two spots; otherwise, it seems to shift fine. Maybe a little harder than a modern transmission, but not too bad.

Maybe, in that case, it's worth just doing the shocks (which are almost certainly shot after 24 years and 96,000 miles) and keeping an eye on the transmission. (And fixing the cosmetic stuff so the car doesn't feel so old). I'm still not sure how much longer a 24 year old car can be a daily driver, but if I got two more years out of it for under $3k in repairs, I'd be happy, I guess. The car has good bones.

Smart move realizing you'd be happier outside of the law and getting out right away. The unhappiest people I know (already!) are the people who didn't get out when they realized that in school. I went to Harvard which was…weird. Happy to be back on the west coast.

RollTideW163

Harvard is a slightly better law school than GGU last I heard Congratulations on making it through!

In any event - I switch between my 2006 S500 and 1996 C280 for my 30 mile commute everyday(I live between Orinda and Pinole and commute to Danville), depending on what I feel like listening to usually (I put a 12" subwoofer in the c280 ) I also end up taking the C280 because it gets excellent gas mileage and the S500 does not.

But quick backstory on that, that car has 146,000 miles on it and some chick rear ended someone while texting in Pleasanton and sold me the car for FIVE HUNDRED dollars. I replaced the hood, repainted it and got a new fan clutch and body items at the junkyard. So to answer your question, your car can last a lot longer.

Shocks are a very easy repair to do yourself and I would start there. If it feels bouncy that is a good suspect.

I'll look up in my manuals what downhill shifting means, but your transmission probably has a lot of life in it still.

mcbc220

Thank you!

One other question. The "engine seals" that my mechanic was talking about—do you think that's a legit repair for me to worry about at this age/mileage? He claimed it's because the car wasn't consistently driven (first owners didn't drive much; I've driven it daily when I'm home, but it sat in my parents' driveway for 9 months x 3 years). I notice ZERO engine issues in normal driving, just the above-mentioned transmission concerns.

RollTideW163

If by "engine seal" he means the rear seal - the reason that would need to be replaced is if it is leaking a bunch of oil. You would notice black wetness where the engine meets the transmission housing.

Depending on how bad it is (if there even is a leak) it's probably fine.

I wouldn't worry about it especially if you aren't noticing abnormally lower levels in oil.

mcbc220

I don't see any oil leaks, and didn't notice anything off when I changed it yesterday in terms of oil levels.

mbsickness

When was the last time the transmission fluid was changed? The 4-speed transmission needs to have the fluid and filter changed at 30K miles. I would as a first step have the service done. There is a transmission shop in Burlingame that is a authorized by ZF called Peter Schmid Transmissions, MZF. They rebuilt the transmission on my C280 and have done all my transmission fluid changes. It's a small shop but an honest son and father operation. These cars have the ability to go the distance as I have a 1994 C280 with 218K on the clock.

Strigoi

How are they any dumber than the letter designations that Mercedes uses? It's the exact same idea.

mcbc220

Thank you for the recommendation. I will check them out. The first owner never changed the fluid. I was told by multiple mechanics not to change it due to age/metal particles. Paying for that now, and I know for the future. I love the way the car drives, and the engine (and body) feel like they have another 100,000 miles on them, at least. If it needs less then $6-7k worth of work, I'm going to keep it. I've been too busy with work to take it in.