Replacing Brakes - 2002 C230 SportsCoupe
Hmmmm.....not heard of that. Are you saying you got the EIS replaced?
4 grand? For what?
Everything on my car is good, except just recently the flap on the AC is stuck open on the floor....my feet freeze! I keep up on the little stuff....it makes a difference.
Close to 146K miles!
I'm thinking going for Eibach sway bars if I can still find them...
If you do this, do you still have to bleed the system?
When changing pads?
And also when doing just a rotor change, is bleeding necessary?
Your braking system is not something you want to work "most" of the time. It's possible that some air could have leaked back into the system.
Check the fluid reservoir and bleed that wheel as a minimum task. A complete bleed would be the prudent thing to do. If you ask your wife you know what she would say!!!
Jim

Your braking system is not something you want to work "most" of the time. It's possible that some air could have leaked back into the system.
Check the fluid reservoir and bleed that wheel as a minimum task. A complete bleed would be the prudent thing to do. If you ask your wife you know what she would say!!!
Jim
).
The front brakes look ok, pads thick, rotors rusty. I took them apart, lubricated pins and pads and put them back together.
One rear rotor had a rusted depression the size of the pad. It must have developed slowly sitting for a long time.
The rear fixed caliper pin that holds the brake pads won't budge after banging on it with a hammer. The small screw that holds the disc on the rotor broke my T30 Torx bit trying to apply leverage.
I know the pads and disc should be easy as said elsewhere in this post but rust seems to have taken over.
1. Is it likely the rusted depression in the rotor is the cause of my judder?
2. How to free the pad pin from the caliper? Will propane heat be okay or would heat ruin the caliper?
3. How to free the hold down screw on the rotor? Would heat fry the hub bearing?
4. If the rotor won't come off, can I apply heat? Will that hurt the bearing?
5. Can I replace just the bad rotor or should I do both sides?
Any other advice?
Thank you,
John
I recently changed the brake pads but I haven't bought the sensor yet. The stealorship wanted $30+ for it.. I figured I could find it cheaper online. I'm having a heck of a time finding the part number though and I'm unsure of what the sensor looks like...So many different models show up.
Also I think only one sensor is needed for the c230k coupe right? I only remember seeing one fried up sensor when we were fiddling with the brakes.
THANKS
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

You should have asked them for the part # while you were there. Haven't replaced mine in a long time, unfortunately.

I recently changed the brake pads but I haven't bought the sensor yet. The stealorship wanted $30+ for it.. I figured I could find it cheaper online. I'm having a heck of a time finding the part number though and I'm unsure of what the sensor looks like...So many different models show up.
Also I think only one sensor is needed for the c230k coupe right? I only remember seeing one fried up sensor when we were fiddling with the brakes.
THANKS

If you get Akebono pads, you get sensors with them. In the mean time, you might try ebay (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...ensor&_sacat=0) or rmeuropean.com (search for your car & Group = brake, Keyword = sensor, Category = brake pad sensor).
I don't know where you




Are you married? I could fall in love very easily.
Romantic weekends, spent wrenching together in the garage. Sigh.
My dream date. LOL
;-)
My typical relationship usually involves inheriting responsibility for
everything mechanical, electrical, and computerized she owns.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Aug 30, 2012 at 02:20 PM.
I enjoy working on cars. I get such a sense of accomplishment after fixing something. I'm pretty frustrated at the moment though because it seems like there are a ton of problems that are popping up..and by the looks of it I will have to bring it to a shop. blah




