Help with Rotors Installation
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Help with Rotors Installation
Hey guys, I am installing my new rotors and need your help. My old rotors where frozen, so I took them out and also took out the rotor hub-interface, Now there is a small ring kinda thing on the wheel and its not going back in the rotor hub-interface. Did I break something, any suggestions????
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Laguna Niguel, CA
I haven't removed my wheel bearings yet as the car is too new but I can tell you from past experience on other cars. The inner bearing goes on the spindle first as you have it in the picture and a special tool or a larger socket is used to tap it in far enough onto the spindle so you can get the rest of the stuff on and fit the castle or collar nut. This must be tapped in evenly and gently or you may damage the spindle and wheel bearing.
Then the hub/outer bearing go on and the bearing cap tapped in place using the large socket or special tool (unless it's already pressed on at the factory as one piece), then the castle or collar nut that holds the assembly on the spindle (it may use a cotter pin if it's a castle nut or a tab you bend if it's a collar nut to hold it from backing out. If it's a collar nut it's good to use a new one as the tab may break from over bending. Use the castle nut (or collar nut) to push the hub on to the spindle to factory torque specs (see service manual). Then if it's a collar nut, bend the tab using a screwdriver and mallet to bend it or if it's a castle nut use a new cotter pin and bend it like the original. Finally a dust cap. Don't think the W203 would be much different.
I know the rotors get stuck to the hub sometimes but why did you go through all this trouble? A lot of penetrating oil and a mallet can break the rust bond free.
Then the hub/outer bearing go on and the bearing cap tapped in place using the large socket or special tool (unless it's already pressed on at the factory as one piece), then the castle or collar nut that holds the assembly on the spindle (it may use a cotter pin if it's a castle nut or a tab you bend if it's a collar nut to hold it from backing out. If it's a collar nut it's good to use a new one as the tab may break from over bending. Use the castle nut (or collar nut) to push the hub on to the spindle to factory torque specs (see service manual). Then if it's a collar nut, bend the tab using a screwdriver and mallet to bend it or if it's a castle nut use a new cotter pin and bend it like the original. Finally a dust cap. Don't think the W203 would be much different.
I know the rotors get stuck to the hub sometimes but why did you go through all this trouble? A lot of penetrating oil and a mallet can break the rust bond free.
