Good idea.

Mine's pretty snug. I had thought about that prior to buying the car (I thought about the car's rear sunshade stretching out), so I never kept it extended if I didn't have to.

 

I was able to put it down.

mbz4810 Thanks for the info. Your right. After I put the sunshade down it the motor worked but it didnt raise or lower the shade. So whenver I have time all take out the mechanism and try to align it.

 

My sunshade has completely stopped working now. I have the fold down rear seats. But even with the seats down, I can't figure out how to get to the shade to remove it, fish it around the rear subwoofer, etc.

I see the screws and aluminum assembly, as described. But how do you remove it from the back seat? Laying in the trunk looking up, the metal decking looks impenetrable. Do you have to remove the rear deck cover from above, and if so, how? The stories about rear deck vibrations are legend, so I want to do this right... Can someone post a step-by-step how-to, please?

Thanks

 

i had the same problem. i couldnt figure out how to remove the mechanism. the only way that crossed my mind is by removing the rear deck. i was going to try to remove it next weekend to figure out how to remove the rear deck.

i had the rear deck working for awhile then i got the same problem. and i said that hell with it. it bugs the hell out of me when i cant use when i park my car under the sun.

 

well, it doesnt bother me so much about the sun thing... it bugs the hell out of me when it's nighttime and it wont go DOWN (making the rear view mirror not recognize that the headlights behind me are blinding me through the side view mirror!)

 

since i cant garage my car anymore i usually leave it on when i get home so it somewhat helps in reducing the interior temp. i've learned that my rear sunshade will not go up (but will go down) when its really hot

seems like a common problem but i still like it

 

I thought this as well. So I finally spent the time this weekend to remove the rear deck and take out the shade assembly. A real PITA. But I decided I needed to know.

I laid the unit on the fold down rear seats, then reconnected the unit to its power source. Sitting in the driver's seat I could then operate the button while holding the motor in my hand. The vibration told me the motor was getting power, but not moving.

Then I remembered this earlier post....This got me to thinking. So, I swallowed hard, and opened the gearbox. Lots of grease and lubes in there! One was a white moly type, around the motor drive gear, and the other was a yellow grease under the main spindle gear.

I removed the gears and then hooked the unit to power, thinking if the motor was good, it would spin... and it did!

So, I cleaned all the gears, removing the excess lubrication, putting some of the clean moly aside for use later. All the gears looked just fine, nothing stripped.

I then reassembled the tranny and then hooked it to power. It still worked! OK, good. So I disassembled it one more time to reintroduce a reasonable amount of lube, then reassembled. It tested successfully again, so I then put it back into the car. Works like a champ, now!

I assume it was gummed up with too much lube.

 

I have same problem 2001 C-320 .
How did you remove rear deck, it is not eazy?
I did try and was not able to remove.
Chris

 

Bob, I would say you are definitely correct on this. It may have just been excess grease that gummed up the gears.

 

The removal of the rear deck requires removal of the C pillar covers.

1) Remove the SRS logo from each C-pillar and unbolt them. Pop the C-Pillar covers loose and place on the floor on each side. No need to remove them from the rear seat belts.
2) Remove the seats if you non-folding seats. Otherwise fold them down.
3) With folding seats, pull the outboard upright seat bolsters forward out of their snap brackets, then remove these brackets. Unlatch them from inside the slot using a screwdriver.
4) Remove two rubber seat back bumpstops in the center (folding seats for sure, not sure about non-folding).
5) from inside the trunk, loosen the three bolts holding the shade in place.
6) On folding seat model, remove the two 3x4 black covers from the trunk crossmember, and disconnect the unlatch indicators (pull the steel spring down and release the yo-yo shaped sliders.
7) From inside the rear seat area, get under the deck with your hands and force up and toward you. It will require quite a bit of wiggling. On folding seat models, be sure to clear the yo-yos on the unlatch indicators.

Once out of the car, the shade assembly can be removed from the rear deck cover. It is held in place by two elemental 10mm bolts and two push/pull pins.

Use a small screwdriver to pry loose the retaining clip on each outboard end of the actuator arms. A hex star screwdriver removes the retaining screw on the center hub (which fits on the jub like a windshield wiper blade arm). Remove the center hub, and you have access to the three bolts holding the transmission cover in place. Pry up the cover slowly. There are three gears within, a drive gear on the motor, an intermediate gear below it, and a spring drive gear to the right. Notice the position of the flat notch on the drive gear axle before taking the gears out. You'll want to reassemble the gears so this flat spot is in the same place.

HTH, and have fun.

 

I'm gonna have to try this to do that sub sealing mod. I hope it works. Once i try it, i'll let you guys know for sure. I plan on maybe using the sprayable foam. Good idea?

 

TAKE PICS WHILE YOU'RE DOING IT!

 

I've read all the threads about sealing the rear deck with foam with interest, too. However, after removing the deck and looking at what's under there, I'm pretty sure I would never do it, now.

1) There is a lot of foam already under the deck around the rear sub. There really aren't many voids to fill.
2) If you put the expanding foam in the wrong places, it could seal the deck permanently, meaning you will not be able to remove it later to repair the shade once it fails, or if you decide to replace the sub with something else.

 

I might not go through the hassle then. With the bass all the way up on the Bose it's still ok, could use more bass but its enough.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows how to remove the rear deck and the rear seat on a 2001 CLK 320.

 

Here is some instructions that my friend gave when he removed his MB's rear set because he installed a new speaker...

Remove the fuse cover trim screws (one each side) and extract the panel noting the tab at the lower outer edge of the cover.
Remove the two screws that hold the seat cushion in place
Move the lower cushion forward and thread the Mercedes seat belt through the slot in the cushion..
Remove the four screws that secure the lower edge of the seat squab in place
Lift the squab vertically to disengage the four tabs on the rear deck panel.
Using a trim tool, remove the two plastic fasteners from the deck panel.
Unclip the seat belt finisher and slide the belt through the slot and set aside
Pop the tweeters out by gently pressing the grill clips from underneath the deck and disconnect the small electrical plug alternatively you can remove the tweeter from its grille by rotating the tweeter anticlockwise to disengage the bayonet fixings.

Hope this could help you... one piece of piece when putting back the rear seat, don't force it to prevent breaking some of its part...

 

Hey MB-BOB, thanks for your instructions about removing the rear deck. I may be performing those steps this weekend to try to fix a rear shade problem.

My shade goes up and fully extends, but when going down, the motor doesn't stop and the gears rattle until I hit the switch. Does anybody know how the rear shade detects that it is fully retracted? There was mention of sync, so is there a magic sequence of buttons to push, like syncing the windows or sunroof?

 

I stumbled across this thread by accident and I'm laughing because my '01 C320's sunshade has the clunk-clunk disease when hot also. Been doing it all summer. When it finally does operate, then it's well for awhile.

So today the whole shebang was replaced at my dealer under my extended warranty. I'll have to mention the excess lube theory to the tech who did the work.

In three weeks this car morphs into an '08 C300, with a sunshade. We shall see if MB has solved the problem or not.

 

Just to let you know guys, I had the same problem with my c230 k sedan 2005..(rear sunshade, and the fuel level didn't work)...what I did to fix this...I removed the rear SAM and unplug everything(all the fuses ,the relays)...I cleaned it with contact cleaner...and put it back on!...and that's it!...

 

Any picture???

 

A Southern California Edison transformer recently found its way through our C’s rear window while the Mrs. had it parked at her workplace.

Its new #691 option “blue heat-insulating” window lists for $670, and a #540 “electric roller blind” currently has an MSRP of $1380.
Just over $3000 OTD to replace the pair from my local independent shop. MB dealer quoted $4000+.

Now looks and functions as new though.

 

damn...john, sucks to hear that...hope Edison or insurance would cover this. i need to figure out what is wrong with my rear sun visor again. you can hear a single click when i press it, but it doesn't move. i'm thinking the gear is stuck again.

 

My rear sunshade was on up position and stuck when I tried to remove it for fix.
Followed the instruction above and broke it, I think my skill isn't good enough.
Anyways, anyone who is going to try to remove it, please be caution.
My rear sunshade is at down position and zip tipped.
Good Luck.

 

need to bookmark this

always have the same problem, sometimes it opens other times it doesnt. pressing the button repeatedly can solve it but I need a reliable fix

Ill get to this on another rainy day lol

 

Mine also sticks in the full upright position. I have somewhat of a ghetto fix. I simply hit the button to stop it before the arms fully extend. It is up 99% of all the way but never sticks. For the record, I also stop it about an inch before it gets to the fully retracted position - that way it doesn't rattle.