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Modifying 10mm H&R Wheel Spacers?

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Old 08-28-2005 | 03:01 AM
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andrei's Avatar
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From: Austin, Tx
'04 G55
Unhappy Modifying 10mm H&R Wheel Spacers?

Hey Guys,

Here's a new one for you. (I searched the forums a LOT before I posted.)

I purchased 10mm H&R hubcentric spacers, and as you all know, they will not fit on the front of the vehicle. The lip on the spacer (aka, what makes it hubcentric) is the issue.

So...
1.) What is your opinion on getting a machine shop to professionally bore out the center (where the lip is) to be even and remove the lip? (Essentially making it non-hubcentric) Is this a bad idea? It seems rather scary...I NEVER mod my cars in a ghetto-like fashion, and I must say, the use of spacers alone has made me quite grumpy.

2.) If you all would disown me for the above idea, what is a good 10mm spacer that is NOT hubcentric? I refuse to use the generic stuff that's stamped and not machined. Do you know if H&R has that size in non-hubcentric? (I'll call them on Mon. but wanted to see if anyone could put me out of my misery sooner.)

Thanks in advance for any and all help!

Have a great rest of the weekend.

Andrei

P.S. New rims I am trying to fit are Moven M-13 in 19X8.5 and 19X9.5 sizes on 235/35-19 and 265/30-19 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3.

Last edited by andrei; 08-28-2005 at 03:06 AM.
Old 08-28-2005 | 04:20 AM
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Hey i used to have the same problem, simple solution, shave the inner metal to the thinnest point before it wrap by your finger, only cost me 20 bucks and i have to return three times to get the correct thickness right. You don't have to remove the lip, find a shop that has the complete equipment. H&R spacers are the best out there i believe, u notice how light it is right . I did notice vibration right after i put them on, but then my allignment was whack. Now, it's smooth, not a single vibration.
Old 08-29-2005 | 01:26 PM
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Thanks!

Thanks for the reply, W0n6_3d4n! That is encouraging! I'll see if I can find a reputable machine shop in my area to do the same procedure.

I'll keep you guys posted on what happens and post pics.

Last edited by andrei; 08-29-2005 at 01:30 PM.
Old 08-29-2005 | 10:32 PM
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The authentic Brabus MB VI's come with wheelspecific spacers (10s or 5s, whichever) that you actually have to screw and lightly mallet onto the wheel itself, therefore the problems of vibration or the spacers not correctly fitting onto the hub never become an issue. Not sure if the brabus spacers will work on the reps though, but if they did, that's what I would look into first, instead of possibly ruining precious H&R 10mm spacers which are resell easy. The spacers cost about the same as well.

flip
Old 08-30-2005 | 12:16 AM
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Update

Ok here is an update from today:

So I went to a very reputable machine shop (which specializes in building race motors, etc) and had the lip machined down and the inner bore made even. The guy did a meticulous job, only cost $30.00, and now the spacers go on perfectly!

BTW, mig888..I've been told the Brabus specific spacers don't work on Moven's, otherwise I would have absolutely done that as it would have been the better solution, by far!

So, a new problem now, as expected...terrible vibration at speeds above 40mph. As you all know, its due to the front part of the hub being 1mm smaller in diameter then the base, next to the rotor, where it has a bit of a ridge. Due to the spacer sitting on this ridge, the wheel is now on the thinner portion and has a tad bit of play in it.

I searched the forums thoroughly on the topic of hubcentric ring adapters, basically a metal sleeve to increase the width of the hub to be equal to that of the back, and didn't find anything concrete for the w203. W0n6_3d4n, did you use any such things? I will be calling Moven and/or the wheel supply (awesome guys, btw) tomorrow to find out what on earth I need. It's rather confusing.

This project is getting more and more ghetto, I'm feeling pretty uneasy. I also have a slight rubbing on the inside fender when I turn all the way to the right or to the left. My car is NOT slammed. I should have just stayed with stock. *grumble*

Word of advice to everyone: ALWAYS get rims that fit from the get-go. Yes they cost more, but just wait twice as long until you have the money saved up. It's well worth it. Don't make my mistakes.

Sigh. Thanks for listening and please throw more comments or help my way.

Andrei
Old 08-30-2005 | 12:43 AM
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I did get that vibration right after i put the spacer on. However, after i serviced my car, they changed the front bushing (mine was split) and did some allignment, it was really smooth, this was almost 1 year ago, car still smooth now. I didn't use anything beside the spacer itself. Try balancing the wheels with the spacer on. The last resort will be to actually glue the spacer into the wheels or the hub.
Old 08-30-2005 | 12:44 AM
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Did u actually remove the lip in the spacer?? It may explain the vibration if u did it. Whenever i remove my wheels, the spacer always stuck to the wheels due to that lips, sometimes it take alot of force to separate them.
Old 08-30-2005 | 01:00 AM
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hm damn.. if you can, try to see if those 10s still fit on the rears, and if they do without causing problems for the rear, you might be able to sell them still. If you insist on putting them onto the front still, do what W0n suggested and use adhesive. I hear using LOCTITE will hold it on pretty well, maybe give it a shot? Good luck with that, I know i've been there and dealt with it, but in the end I'm really happy with the wheel-specific spacers.

flip
Old 08-30-2005 | 08:41 PM
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Update

I AM SOO HAPPY!!!! I fixed it! Here is how:

So i created what is referred to as a hubcentric sleeve. Due to the discrepancy of 1 MM thickness of the hub, I purchased a .5mm thick sheet of steel and cut a 1cm strip. (.5mm + .5mm when wrapped around = the diff we need) After carefully shaping it to the hub, I used some Locktite to adhere it to the hub. I placed the spacer temporarily on top of this strip so as it had a tight, circular fit while drying. After 20 minutes, I removed it, slid the spacer all the way back on the hub and noticed the hub is now perfectly flat front to back. After bolting down the rims, a quick test drive to 80mph shows the problem is completely gone. I mean its PERFECT.

I dunno if I made any sense with any of this but if people need to know more, please feel free to ask me! Anyone with an 2004.5 and newer c sport sedan, who didn't get perfect offset rims, this is a great route if done carefully and professionally.

Andrei

P.S.

W0n6_3d4n: Yes the lip, on the design of spacer i had, had to be removed. By borring out the center of the spacer, the lip no longer has that thickness so just fell off. Thats strange (but very cool) that you did it some other way that I didn't think of.

Mig888: Thanks for the heads up on the Locktite!!! It's why my project worked so well!!!

Last edited by andrei; 08-30-2005 at 08:51 PM.
Old 08-30-2005 | 08:49 PM
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See? Loctite does it again! . Glad it all worked out for you. No go on your killing spree =p.

flip
Old 08-30-2005 | 08:50 PM
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Glad to hear all turn out ok for you

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