boylinator

I just finished changing the rear rotors and pad and have the front right rotor off now. I'm not that mechanically inclined, but had no trouble with the rears. Had a question about the front rotors. When I loosen the lock nut that's holding the rotor on, does that whole center part with the bearings come out too? If it doesn't, then I'm screwed since the new rotor I have doesn't contain the "inner guts". Any advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated so I can finish the job.

StapleGun

Hold on a sec...does it have a 'lock nut' or a phillips head screw? All I recall seeing is a screw...pull it off and off comes the rotor.

boylinator

I'll go out and take 2 pictures......one of the old and one of the new rotors and that will help to explain my problem. back in 5.....

now can you see what I mean about the bearings and even the threads of the existing rotor. how do I get them off and into the new rotor?

artur023

how hard is it to change your rotors yourself?

StapleGun

Mount the hub back on with the lock nut....the rotor is seized to the bearing hub. You need to use oil on it and let it sit...then knock the rotor with a mallet as you turn it to remove. Shoot me an email with phone number if you wish I'll call ya cohibas4u@NOSPAMyahoo.comREMOVE NOSPAM

C43AMG

seized ? It looks like it's welded.

StapleGun

I know it's difficult to see, but if you look...you will see that there is a seam where the rotor meets the bearing housing - you have the new one there for comparison. Once you have removed the screws, there's nothing else retaining the rotor on once disassembled - 'cept the corrosion. Just gently rap it with a hammer, preferably a brass mallet (gently), rotate the rotor so as to loosen it evenly around the hub and that should do the trick for ya. Hope this makes better sense than my last post...as before. Shoot an email w/phone and I can walk ya through it. Let us know how you do!

StapleGun

C43AMG - I have seen a lot worse than this one!

Capt Nemo o2

My friends A4 had that except it was the wheel and the hub, and he had a flat!!! His situation was he had two different types of metals and they fused together. Its good practice to take off your wheels about once a year and put anti-seize on the hub or wheel where the two meet and to put it on the lug bolts too. Probably wouldn't hurt to use it in this same situation.

StapleGun

Mr Nemo, that's a great idea actually

boylinator

Got it all done! Took some oil and serious swings with a sledge! Yes, a sledge, but it did come off. Once I finished that, the process didn't take long at all!

Thanks for the input!

Nuvolari

I respect and understand that you are not mechanically inclined but I see a lot of problems here:

1. When you put the front hub back on did you clean out all (and I mean ALL) the old grease and properly re-pack the bearings. With the amount of disassembly to did, for sure there is contamination of the grease that can lead to premature bearing wear or failure (not hypothetical. Been there seen that)

2. When re-assembled, did you properly check the pre-load on the bearing? Experienced mechanics do this by feel and some use a dial indicator off the rotor.

3. Your new rotors looked pretty oily, were you sure to properly clean them with brake clean before installation? If not you will run into decreased braking performance due to contaminated brake linings.

Changing your own brakes is easy and can save you a bundle from going to the dealer. You just need to be sure what you are doing otherwise the future problems will never be worth the savings.

StapleGun

Nuvolari has a good point since you tackled that bearing..you better make sure, at the very least, that you have not overtightened that bearing locknut or your bearing WILL fail. I have done it by feel and have never had a problem...cinch it down and back off making sure the rotor is free wheeling with no play front to back. Additionally, and so you don't panic. I have never fully changed out fully the bearing grease in the past, and have never had a problem w/them failing.