C230SS M271 Intake Thread
#26
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BLACK 05 C230SS
Does anyone know if the resonator on the SuperCharger look the same as this one off of a SLK 350?
I'm trying to figure out if I can find it on mine and take it off.
I'm trying to figure out if I can find it on mine and take it off.
#27
Originally Posted by razorfish228
Does anyone know if the resonator on the SuperCharger look the same as this one off of a SLK 350?
I'm trying to figure out if I can find it on mine and take it off.
I'm trying to figure out if I can find it on mine and take it off.
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Mine 2005 C230 Kompressor, Dad's 2005 ML350
I understand that the current airbox is superior but I want the sound of the custom intake, my friend has one on his BMW 528i and it sounds incredible, even if I lose a tiny bit of power from the intake grabbing up hot air the way it sounds is worth it....would the using of both those lil air scoops and removing the baffles and a K&N drop in make it sound different? and I read something about the engine twisting and thats why they dont use a solid tube? either way if your in NYC PM me because I wanna try this whole thing closer to spring
#31
Originally Posted by StillKickin
I understand that the current airbox is superior but I want the sound of the custom intake, my friend has one on his BMW 528i and it sounds incredible, even if I lose a tiny bit of power from the intake grabbing up hot air the way it sounds is worth it....would the using of both those lil air scoops and removing the baffles and a K&N drop in make it sound different? and I read something about the engine twisting and thats why they dont use a solid tube? either way if your in NYC PM me because I wanna try this whole thing closer to spring
1. Remove the baffles on the top of your airbox lid, they are there for sound deadening, do a search and you will find instructions. Just use a razor, its easy.
2. Replace the stock filter with a K&N filter (this would help a little with sound and power as paper conical filters don't flow nearly as well as oil and gauze conicals)
3. Replace the cloth pipe with 3" ABS plastic. Use fernco coupers or silicone couplers and a little creativity to do this - its not that difficult. DON'T open the 2nd intake scoop as it will loose any "tunnel ram" effects of the long 3" ABS section. Not to mention that the tubes will be of unequal length and have screwy airflow dynamics. The resonance from the long free flowing solid tube should make for a nice intake sound, less heat, cleaner look and better flow.
4. Remove the plastic grid before the MAF unit. Be careful not to damage the metal honeycomb behind it, or drop plastic shavings in the intake. I would imagine this would increase the overall flow capacity by at least 10%
All this might be good for 10-15 RWHP combined. Maybe more. Also its fairly simple and different mods can be done in a stepwise fashion, time permitting. I am very busy and in a different part of the country otherwise I would help out.
#32
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C 230K Coupé
All this might be good for 10-15 RWHP combined. Maybe more
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Mine 2005 C230 Kompressor, Dad's 2005 ML350
Where can I get a replacement airbox lid, so that i can swap a new one in when I give the car back being that its a lease, i wouldnt do the plastic grid before the MAF mod, seems a little much once again considering its a lease car. The pipe seems like a decent idea, however is there any truth to the engine twisting enough to work against that? And, if I have to take in the car for service would I have to return everything to stock? Can those same silicone couplers be used to put something like a K&N Typhoon intake?
#34
Originally Posted by r3v1ls
Wow that's a very optimistic number. You'd be lucky to even get 5RWHP increase from that mod.
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
Last edited by Young Doc; 12-26-2005 at 05:51 PM.
#35
Originally Posted by StillKickin
Where can I get a replacement airbox lid, so that i can swap a new one in when I give the car back being that its a lease, i wouldnt do the plastic grid before the MAF mod, seems a little much once again considering its a lease car. The pipe seems like a decent idea, however is there any truth to the engine twisting enough to work against that? And, if I have to take in the car for service would I have to return everything to stock? Can those same silicone couplers be used to put something like a K&N Typhoon intake?
There is no truth to the engine twisting enough to break the ABS if you use silicone or fernco couplers. The rubber/silicone would allow for adequate flex. Worst case is that the airbox end of the snorkel will pop out and you will push it back in. Give your engine a good rev and watch the motion of the engine. Keep this in mind as you fabricate your solid pipe setup.
The dealer won't notice/care about the baffles on top of your airbox or the very minor mods listed above. Unless its a real hack-up job I doubt they would even notice as long as everything is clean and factory looking.
NOTE: The right side of the airbox is designed to let out any water/debris sucked up by the intake. This makes it VERY safe to run with a solid pipe and higher velocity air charge, especially with a K&N filter which has intrinsic water resistant properties.
#36
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Mine 2005 C230 Kompressor, Dad's 2005 ML350
Originally Posted by Young Doc
Rigging up a K&N Typhoon intake to the stock setup would perform/look like crap. We already have a potentially enclosed cold air conical ram-air system that is far superior.
There is no truth to the engine twisting enough to break the ABS if you use silicone or fernco couplers. The rubber/silicone would allow for adequate flex. Worst case is that the airbox end of the snorkel will pop out and you will push it back in. Give your engine a good rev and watch the motion of the engine. Keep this in mind as you fabricate your solid pipe setup.
The dealer won't notice/care about the baffles on top of your airbox or the very minor mods listed above. Unless its a real hack-up job I doubt they would even notice as long as everything is clean and factory looking.
NOTE: The right side of the airbox is designed to let out any water/debris sucked up by the intake. This makes it VERY safe to run with a solid pipe and higher velocity air charge, especially with a K&N filter which has intrinsic water resistant properties.
There is no truth to the engine twisting enough to break the ABS if you use silicone or fernco couplers. The rubber/silicone would allow for adequate flex. Worst case is that the airbox end of the snorkel will pop out and you will push it back in. Give your engine a good rev and watch the motion of the engine. Keep this in mind as you fabricate your solid pipe setup.
The dealer won't notice/care about the baffles on top of your airbox or the very minor mods listed above. Unless its a real hack-up job I doubt they would even notice as long as everything is clean and factory looking.
NOTE: The right side of the airbox is designed to let out any water/debris sucked up by the intake. This makes it VERY safe to run with a solid pipe and higher velocity air charge, especially with a K&N filter which has intrinsic water resistant properties.
Extremely helpful responses, thanks everyone, Im going to try the solid pipe setup and if at all possible try and connect both of those intake scoops, after New Years, and before school starts so that I have time to find parts that I can potentially use. Ill try to document it and see if anything actually comes of it. If not performance wise at least sound wise, where would I be able to Dyno my car in NYC/Brooklyn area and how much would it cost? If I can Id like to dyno the car stock, with just the K&N and then with the solid pipe so I can post actual numbers up for everyone to see.
#37
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Originally Posted by Young Doc
From all FOUR mods, not one. Another small point of interest is that the guys with the K&N alone are dynoing at LEAST 10RWHP more than the paper conical guys. Big gains from a filter, I know. I have had my old DSM dyno +7 RWHP from JUST replacing the paper conical with a K&N conical.
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
It's amazing for that much of HP increase tho .
#38
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Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
Originally Posted by Young Doc
From all FOUR mods, not one. Another small point of interest is that the guys with the K&N alone are dynoing at LEAST 10RWHP more than the paper conical guys. Big gains from a filter, I know. I have had my old DSM dyno +7 RWHP from JUST replacing the paper conical with a K&N conical.
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
I've already swapped the filter and done the baffle thing, but can't really feel any change. If you're saying I'll gain 15 HP at the wheels for adding the abs piping and removing a piece before the MAF, I'm curious about that, but need to see the proof from the dynos and pics that this has actually been done already. Not really willing to risk messing up the Benzo unless I actually see the proven data.
Thanks in advance.
drex
#39
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Originally Posted by drexappeal
Young Doc, you have any pics of the piping you changed out? I know what it looks like stock, but curious how the replacement abs piping looks and also trying to visualize what you removed before the MAF?
I've already swapped the filter and done the baffle thing, but can't really feel any change. If you're saying I'll gain 15 HP at the wheels for adding the abs piping and removing a piece before the MAF, I'm curious about that, but need to see the proof from the dynos and pics that this has actually been done already. Not really willing to risk messing up the Benzo unless I actually see the proven data.
Thanks in advance.
drex
I've already swapped the filter and done the baffle thing, but can't really feel any change. If you're saying I'll gain 15 HP at the wheels for adding the abs piping and removing a piece before the MAF, I'm curious about that, but need to see the proof from the dynos and pics that this has actually been done already. Not really willing to risk messing up the Benzo unless I actually see the proven data.
Thanks in advance.
drex
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#40
Originally Posted by drexappeal
Young Doc, you have any pics of the piping you changed out? I know what it looks like stock, but curious how the replacement abs piping looks and also trying to visualize what you removed before the MAF?
I've already swapped the filter and done the baffle thing, but can't really feel any change. If you're saying I'll gain 15 HP at the wheels for adding the abs piping and removing a piece before the MAF, I'm curious about that, but need to see the proof from the dynos and pics that this has actually been done already. Not really willing to risk messing up the Benzo unless I actually see the proven data.
Thanks in advance.
drex
I've already swapped the filter and done the baffle thing, but can't really feel any change. If you're saying I'll gain 15 HP at the wheels for adding the abs piping and removing a piece before the MAF, I'm curious about that, but need to see the proof from the dynos and pics that this has actually been done already. Not really willing to risk messing up the Benzo unless I actually see the proven data.
Thanks in advance.
drex
To actually get a decent feel for the mods you can get a downshift around 70mph - whenever the intake charge is slightly pressurized. With the solid pipe/!baffes/!plastic premaf screen/K&N you should be able to hear and feel a slight difference from the stock setup.
I wish I could help out more, but I am busy w/ 18 hour days and studying for boards until mid june. As far as modding goes it really is a trial and error process and as a community we need to brainstorm and analyze ideas. You can't make an omlet without breaking some eggs - and I understand everyone's reluctance to mod their hard earned cars without definitive proof of gains on a good sample size of cars.
If I get time I will try to post a writeup of the solid pipe and !premaf screen, however these are quite simple mods that even novices can do with a little creativity. As these are not internal mods the risk of doing damage is very minimal.
As far as individual gains, I think the plastic premaf is the biggest restriction. Do this test - take a light and shine it into the plastic premaf. Behind the premaf screen you will see another metal screen*. The total cross sectional area is reduced by AT LEAST 10% by that chunky plastic. You look at it and be the judge. Maybe someone here will be kind enough to actually measure and document the x-sectional area of the orifice with and without the plastic grid there.
*This is a honeycomb shaped metal screen that is for laminar airflow. The grids are so thin that it hardly restricts airflow and it contributes to more accurate measurements by the MAF. Plenty of hotrodders take this metal honeycomb out and it is controvercial - I wouldn't recommend taking it out unless you want to be a guinea pig and let us know how it goes.
#41
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2002 C230 Coupe(M111)
Originally Posted by Young Doc
From all FOUR mods, not one. Another small point of interest is that the guys with the K&N alone are dynoing at LEAST 10RWHP more than the paper conical guys. Big gains from a filter, I know. I have had my old DSM dyno +7 RWHP from JUST replacing the paper conical with a K&N conical.
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
I welcome you to prove me wrong, I really do. I know it sounds crazy - but the data stands (DynoJet):
M271 w/K&N stock - 160-170+RWHP
M271 w/Paper stock - 150-155 RWHP
Estimate: M271 w/my mods listed above - 170+RWHP
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#42
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C 230K Coupé
I've been waiting for Outland to pitch into this thread for quite sometime. Almost any member here with modding experience will vouch that a new air filter will barily do anything.
But if you can prove this wrong with some actual DYNO chartsm go ahead and do so :p .
But if you can prove this wrong with some actual DYNO chartsm go ahead and do so :p .
#43
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Mine 2005 C230 Kompressor, Dad's 2005 ML350
Well Ive taken the first steps into replacing the cloth pipe with PVC, Home Depot sells 10 feet of PVC no matter what so I have plenty for anybody in the NYC area that wants to do this after me if in sucessful. The couplers I got say for drain/sewage use only, will the withstand the heat in the engine bay?
After I replace that cloth pipe and put in the K&N Filter tommorow I will also take out those baffles. The cloth pipe appears to be in need of a ripping out. Ill have to go to the parts department and buy a replacement for when I take my leased car in for service, I might buy another airbox lid just in case as well.
I dont know where to get Dynos and dont really want to waste money on it. Im not expecting gains in power that can be felt, however, Im hoping something will come of the sound.
If all else fails Im going to buy a K&N intake system with one of those heat shields and get it as close to those intake scoops as possible so as to not pick up too much hot air from the engine bay.
Ill try take pics as I go along, If there is a noticeable enough sound difference Ill try to make a small video. If there is no noticable sound difference or throttle response I will prolly just return everything to stock.
After I replace that cloth pipe and put in the K&N Filter tommorow I will also take out those baffles. The cloth pipe appears to be in need of a ripping out. Ill have to go to the parts department and buy a replacement for when I take my leased car in for service, I might buy another airbox lid just in case as well.
I dont know where to get Dynos and dont really want to waste money on it. Im not expecting gains in power that can be felt, however, Im hoping something will come of the sound.
If all else fails Im going to buy a K&N intake system with one of those heat shields and get it as close to those intake scoops as possible so as to not pick up too much hot air from the engine bay.
Ill try take pics as I go along, If there is a noticeable enough sound difference Ill try to make a small video. If there is no noticable sound difference or throttle response I will prolly just return everything to stock.
#45
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Originally Posted by richardsayzz
just threw in a K&N ...just curious has anyone actually got a fouled maf from the k&n
#46
Originally Posted by StillKickin
Which intake kit did you use and how heavily would it have to be modified for the M271...while searching the forums there was also something about opening up the second air scoop thats behind the grill since the M271 only uses one of them, has anyone actually made any headway in using that second scoop, if not, I think I want to try it, anyone have any advice on how connect the thing? would the weapon-R silicone tubes be of any use?
Is there anyone in the NY/LI area that would be willing to help me out with this as a weekend project?
Is there anyone in the NY/LI area that would be willing to help me out with this as a weekend project?