johnand

Drex, the Red and Yellow top are essentially the same construction. The Yellow top in the same size D34/78 will have a higher AH rating, but less CCA. So, IMO the yellow is a better choice for the benz unless you live in a very cold climate, then the extra CCA's of the red top will be a better choice. Being your in SoCal, the yellow would be the better choice for you. In fact, I don't know the size of the OEM battery and tray, but Optima makes an even bigger D31A, that is 900CCA and 75Ah. It's dimensions are 12.8 x 6.5 x 9.4". That is the one that I would get if it would fit.

drexappeal

Johnand, you confirmed what I suspected simply for the fact that the Benz runs off of a lot of auxilary electricals (i.e. convenience, auto, interior dome light dimming, etc...). From what I understand, the red top batteries are great for cold weather starting, but just as you said, I live in So-cal where it's pretty much good weather. And when it's "cold" it's nothing compared to the east coast or other parts of the country that have snow/ below 0 temps.

MJ50

i hope red top won't cause any battery drains...

mleskovar

If you have added accessories that draw a lot of current...like a big amp... you want the yellow top. Otherwise there is no advantage to using a deep cycle battery in a car. The disadvantage is the cranking amps (CCA) are lower than the red top. I also believe it takes longer to fully charge a deep cycle battery. Does anyone know if there is a technical reason that the C class requires a 100AH battery??

06c230hwd

old thread eh, dunno how i found it, maybe in the DIY section :P

anyways there's no such thing as a vehicle needing a battery with any sort of certion AH rating. the rating only says how long they think the battery should last.. pretty simple right? 75 ampere hours is less than 100 amepre hours creating less of a long lasting battery.

oh and of course it takes longer to charge a deep cycle battery... a standard car batt. group 47/49 (used in benz) or group 65 used for standard ford p/u batt. you can give those a 40 amp boost no prob to get the electro's going and then just finish with a 10 amp charge for a couple hours (if dead batt.) and a deep cycle on the other hand, first of all is designed to be fully charged and then if not fully close to fully drained. they are not designed to receive a constant current from a cars 12v alternator. honestly i think deep cycles in cars are just stupid as a starting battery(some in the truink is a diff story). anyways back to my point yeah it takes longer cause you should only give a battery like this a 2 amp trickle charge-anything more will be comprising the integrity of your expensive batt

tanktube67

interstate

06c230hwd

I usually use... http://www.exide.com/products/automo...t_orbital.html

9934/78 Living in FL I don't have to worry about tempurature drops Always over 1000 CA.

tanktube67

not bad, not bad at all