fanito

Hey guys, I've searched the forums regarding oil change and there are a couple of how-to's but nothing specif about my car, so this first time (I just got a C230K '02 coupe) I decided to take it to local shop. I don't think it was a good idea. They drained my oil, which was very dirty (stupid previous owner)from the bottom and once was this completed the guy was unable to take the filter out. Now I know that is a specific tool for the job. Then it got ugly... we had to "change" the oil for a clean one. I told him what syntetic oil I wanted (0w-40) but he said that he was running short of that one and have enough for 1 time, not just to get me going and then to come back and get my oil drained again so he decided to put a different grade adn also I caught him adding left overs of other syntetic grades (same Mobil1 though) I know synt oil blends well but is not the point. I spent 3 hours there, they charged me $50 and they told me to come back to get it right. I came back yesterday, different guy, no tool, 30 minutes later same results, but this time he scratched the cap, ... what a lesson... anyway... sorry that is not the point of the thread, just venting...
1) What is the oil filter tool part for my particular car
2) Is that cap supposed to be "that tight"?
3) Should I drain it again because a) is mixed and b) because the old oil filter is still there.
4) Should I sue the guy or just ask him to give me my money back, or go to MB and send him the invoice... hehehehe... I guess I am going to start doing my own oil change from now on .... Thanks in advance

madfast

i'd say over a $50 bill and a stratched cap, its worth just expressing to him you're dissatisfied and that you'd like for him to rectify the situation.

if you're paying for one thing and he's mixing leftover oils together, i'd be pissed, mostly cause he was sneaking it, partially because its just not proper.

hkbmac

If you live in California, these guys would probably love to hear from you. http://www.autorepair.ca.gov/stdhome.asp

I am sure other states have similar departments.

sidshock

there should not be a need for a tool.
I went to a local ma and pa shop, and they just unscrewed it
I got the exact same yr/model.

No problems.

Was he turning it the right way even??
did he go to the right spot..
just a bit above the RAD after u remove the closest engine cover to you in the middle of the hood for the filter..

fanito

OMG, I just called the MB dealer and the tool is $40... oh boy... I guess I'll try a different place. I spoke with the shop owner and he decided to give me my money back, he was hesitant but I told him that the tech scratched the filter and the simple fact that they got oil mixed in, then he decided to go to the cheaper option still not cool, never will go again there. He was turning the cap counter-clockwise. Is there a "trick" to get it removed? maybe pushing it down or hammering it ... I dunno, speaking of which, is there an AFTERMARKET tool for removing the oil filter that fits my vehicle?

JDM

The canister tops fit really snug, but you still want to make sure that you do not cross thread it. The filter kit comes with new o rings (3?) that go on the cap and strainer piece.(the part that goes thru the new filter) Use them. I put a soft cloth over the housing top, and with huge channel locks, gently unscrew it. I'll pm you a filter supplier and a tool supplier.So far, I can only find the 0w-40 at the dealer still.

Moviela

The cap removal tool is Mercedes Nr. 103 589 02 09 00. The fleece filter is Nr. 000 180 26 09. If you use the fleece filter and the Mobil 1 0W-40 oil you can extend service interval to 1 year or 13,000 miles. Make sure the label on the oil bottle says Mercedes Spec 229.5, or you are buying the wrong oil. The filters sold in auto parts stores are not the fleece type, and the look up computers they all use (Autozone, CKS, Pep Boys) show the old non fleece filter, and specify 10W-30 oil! I have found the proper Mobil 1 at Kragen (CKS) and at Autozone. I have not found the proper filter anywhere except the dealer in the USA. If you do use a quick lube place, make sure they have a vacuum to remove the oil from the crankcase. If they don't, I'd move on. Of course you can remove the lower cover, and use the drain plug, except Mercedes like other German marques requires replacement of the seal on the bolt. Reusing it results in a puddle on your garage floor.

There is a tightening torque specification for the filter cover. 25 Nm. If you don't have and use a torque wrench, you should turn in your tool box and get a quilting kit to fill your spare time.

Sauceboy01

so, it isn't a good idea to take my car to Jiffy Lube?

tommy

What's the part # on the MB quilting kit?

There is a generic oil filter cap removal tool; sorry, I bought the MB one out of laziness, but can't help you there - might want to do a search to see if you can find any info on it.

If you get a topsider (I got mine at thetoolwarehouse.net ), you can drain your oil from the top, like your dealership does. And you'll never have to have your oil changed by anyone else - it's a very simple process.

Since you're using the old filter , I wouldn't be comfortable with half-assing it like you did - I'd recommend doing it again, correctly this time, by yourself, with new oil and a new filter.

Moviela

First you need a top for the quilt, here is a nice one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=284507

Then you need a backing, Here is one that will fit.

http://www.keepsakequilting.com/KQSh...U119&catpos=33

benzmodz

Anyone that doesnt have a suction rig for sucking the oil out of the engine doesnt even get to see my car.

Letting oil out of the bottom is rather Fred Flinstone. Not something I associate with a leading brand car workshop.

fanito

Actually is not my choice... lol and I am not half-assing..lol, the guy couldn't get it out... I did buy one from MB, not expensive, only $12 but the tool is $40, so I don't think so...I have to drain again

wingless

It would not occur to me to work on my vehicle, without using proper tools, without following proper procedure, without using appropriate safety.

There are topics in this forum with all the information required to perform this maintenance procedure. The information provided by Moviela is correct.

The MB manuals define acceptable oils and restrictions on mixing oils for the vehicle. Also, the oil manufacturer’s data sheets show the limitations of mixing different oils. In many cases, that is not permitted.

The MB 103-589-02-09-00 oil filter tool cost me $12 at the dealership.

The level of proper maintenance has a direct affect on the operation of the vehicle. It should be expected that increased problems would be a direct result of improper or inadequate maintenance.

RobertG

For $40 you can get the entire set of cup style oil filter wrenches that covers all makes of cars ( Mac Tools).
Like someone mentioned earlier if you dont have a torque wrench then step away from the vehicle and let the pro's work on it.

jac1502

Anyone knwo if the new engine in the 06 c230 requires a different removal tool? I would hate to buy the wrong one

tonewheel

2004.5 230SS.

I drain from the pan, replacing the compression ring every time ($0.75). You cannot "drain" oil by suction (and yes, yes, I know that the dealership sucks it out.) But oil at operating temperature, like most fluids, wants to go only one way, and that is down. Clearly, it is much more convenient to suck the oil out, and I have to believe that the procedure is factory-recommended as removing the underside baffles each and every time is labor intensive. But I do it, and it takes me about 30 minutes to change my oil. Once the plug has been removed, there's barely any dripping after 15 minutes. And, getting under the car every 5,000 miles lets me conduct a complete visual inspection under the baffles.

Filter housing. This has to be the simplest design I've had in any of the 9 cars I've owned. The housing can be unscrewed by hand (easier when warm), and once I've removed the old filter, wiped BOTH housings clean, replaced and lubed the 3 new o-rings, the upper housing get screwed back on and tighetened by hand. You may choose to use a torque wrench if you wish, but since the large o-ring seals the housing (and not the threads), it's really not necessary. And, when the threads hit home, they're home. The upper housing is not going to back off or loosen, the press-fit of the o-ring sees to that.

Mobil 0-40. Absolutely. Accept no substitute! Ever. Ever.

jac1502

I can not even find the oil filter on the 06 it may be on the bottom

Moviela

Oh boy, here is another one who believes the engineering staff at a major automobile manufacturer has it all wrong, wasting time tightening threaded equipment to a designed and tested torque specification.

Please don't work on my car, and stay entirely away from my aircraft. Would you want to fly with me from Chicago to Cincinnati with the oil filter cover tightened by hand?

Moviela

Hi Jac1502,

If your C230 looks like this one under the hood, the arrow points to the oil filter cover.

jac1502

No my engine looks like this, any thoughts? Could it be under one of the covers?

SeaCoupe

Please don't work on my car, and stay entirely away from my aircraft. Would you want to fly with me from Chicago to Cincinnati with the oil filter cover tightened by hand?[/QUOTE]

Congrats on having the plane. Realize that the specifications for aviation and automobiles are 2 different things. Guess what happens with those seals when they get hot? They expand!

RES

I'm an aircraft mechanic, and in my expierence 90% of aircraft owners are the the cheapest people on the planet. Most want you to do an inspection over luanch and don't want to spend the money that is required to properly maintain there aircraft. But I hope you are the 10% that does take care of there aircraft. I have not looked at the procedures yet, but sometimes you can tighten filter bowls by hand. The aircraft I mostly work on has 7 hydraulic filter bowls that say in the procedure to tighten by hand to avoid damaging them. They to have the O-ring seal and they don't come loose. And trust me, on this aircraft if anything where to come loose this would be the one. And what the heck you can still pull over in your car. LOL, Everyone just needs to chill!

SeaCoupe

Imagine that an aircraft mechanic in concurrence. Torque wrenches are for high stress fastners. When you are pushing 90 + ft lbs. Tolerances are critical. But on an oil filter?

Ed

tonewheel

Right on, Russ and Liquidlife. Knew I was right.

davis449

I change my oil every 7500 miles, I don't care about the FSS system, screw Mercedes, they're the ones with the "lifetime" transmission fill, yeah right. I have the dealer do my oil changes at the A and B service intervals usually, but the in between times are done by my friend who works at Jiffy Lube (him and one other guy the only ones there allowed to touch my car) and I bring in my own oil and filter every time. If I EVER had to have a quick lube type place do my oil changes, I would at least bring my own stuff EVERY time.