Engine Wire Harness, Oxygen sensor etc
Since the diagnosis, there is no throttling when idling (but engine light still on). My question: Is their diagnosis correct? The car appears too new to have to change the engine wire harness. The mechanic said that the engine wire harness must be changed because they are coated with oil and the sensor must also change accordingly. The cable plugs, I think is for the engine wire harness. Plus labour, all these is going to cost me a lot of money. Hence, I appreciate advice from persons with similar experiences.

I have been exactly where you where. A dealership (who is now a sponsor) did a Service A on my car. During the service, the oil ran down the harnes to the o2 sensor. Ruining the sending unit on the sensor. When they replaced the sensor, they also replaced that section of harnes.
I would imagine you are also getting very bad mileage. Find where you leak is. Fix that, do replace the sensor and harness. Then drive it. I am not too familiar with your engine layout, but I have to assume that spark plug wires can be cleaned up and reused.
Does someone here know the max impedence a plug wire can exhibit before being called faulty?
Ed
I have been exactly where you where. A dealership (who is now a sponsor) did a Service A on my car. During the service, the oil ran down the harnes to the o2 sensor. Ruining the sending unit on the sensor. When they replaced the sensor, they also replaced that section of harnes.
I would imagine you are also getting very bad mileage. Find where you leak is. Fix that, do replace the sensor and harness. Then drive it. I am not too familiar with your engine layout, but I have to assume that spark plug wires can be cleaned up and reused.
Does someone here know the max impedence a plug wire can exhibit before being called faulty?
Ed
Thank you for your input. May I know whether the engine wire harness can be changed by affected section or in full set.
I have been observing - since the last posting, the car throttled twice when idling at traffic lights. Then I switched off the engine and restarted the car, the throttle disappeared. Can any one explain what actually happen? Thank you
My car is 4 years old as well, though with much more mileage. Everything you say is about a mirror image of my problem. They replaced the entire harness; I don't think I'd want to monkey around with replacing a part of it, but that's just me.
And yes, it was a lot of money in labor.
Guess what ? It happened to me today...The mechanic discovered that the wire harness was filled with oil. I am puzzled as my vehicle has been consuming heaps of petrol lately...The leaks stretch over to the O2 sensor.
My vehicle is only 16 months old
Sending in my car for service on Monday...
to replace the entire wire harness.
To prevent future incident, he has fixed a short camshaft cable (USD35)to "bridge" the camshaft magnet gear to the wire harness (instead of wire harness being connected directly to the camshaft magnet gear) for purpose of buffering against future oil leak. Should there be a oil leak, one needs to replace the short camshaft cable while the rest of the wire harness will remain intact.
My mechanic informed me that this is a common problem with Compressor car.
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To prevent future incident, he has fixed a short camshaft cable (USD35)to "bridge" the camshaft magnet gear to the wire harness (instead of wire harness being connected directly to the camshaft magnet gear) for purpose of buffering against future oil leak. Should there be a oil leak, one needs to replace the short camshaft cable while the rest of the wire harness will remain intact.
My mechanic informed me that this is a common problem with Compressor car.
My MB mechanic replaces the camshaft magnet gear as well as the entire ECU. There was this camshaft cable installed as a preventive measure, however, the wire hardness and the O2 sensor was not even touched or replaced....
As a matter of fact, me really giving up hope on kompressor cars....
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

Hmm, I drove the 325, and I thought it was a dog. Quite a bit of lag on throttle. Yes, the suspension is nice.
I considered the BMW 325i as well couldn't get the numbers $$ right. I already had a 330Ci and the Z4 so I was ready for a change. Glad you like the 325. As I always say there are no bad cars anymore, just some better than others. If I was willing to committ the dinaro I would get either a C350 Sport or CLK 350 as My primary ride and give the C230 to my bride. Maybe I'll just do that. Soon.
Great photos of the two/three.
Last edited by Gentlemanjim; May 19, 2006 at 08:38 PM.
I considered the BMW 325i as well couldn't get the numbers $$ right. I already had a 330Ci and the Z4 so I was ready for a change. Glad you like the 325. As I always say there are no bad cars anymore, just some better than others. If I was willing to committ the dinaro I would get either a C350 Sport or CLK 350 as My primary ride and give the C230 to my bride. Maybe I'll just do that. Soon.
Great photos of the two/three.
She drives the BMW but I steal it often
The Mercedes has good steering wheel, but the car's handling isnt that great. They lean all over the road, the 3 series will eat the Mercedes easily. I am bias, but I do like the C230K engine. It's nice to have all the power and stioll get 26mpg cruising
Appreciate the help.
Dave
Plan:
1. remove wire harneses contaminated in oil. place in bucket. file bucket with dish washer soap and stirr until water becomes nasty.
2. remove ECU and inspect it for oil. remove cover and look inside for oil.
3. check all plugs for all sensors for oil and if found remove harnes for cleaning. clean socket of senor if not damaged.
LOTS OF WORK or sell my C and get a ford.
Rommel
I've been disconnecting every connector I can find off the wiring harness and spraying electrical connection cleaner and then blowing it out with pressurized air duster and then reconnecting. I just don't know if I've gotten them all.
Now I'm getting trouble codes P0140 & P0136.
Got any ideas?
Dave
so ii had the mechanic clean the oil and change the magnet. he also cleaned up the cu and put in an new ecu.
car drives fine now (after changing around 4 02 sensors) but im still waiting cuz i know that dam lights gona *** on.




It's often been said you can't just drop a new ECU in and have the car run,
keeps the car theives at bay.
I'll be looking at this....preventively speaking.
can someone post a pic of the location of the camshaft magnet?


