Jackpoints?
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Chicagoland, IL
09 C63
Jackpoints?
)I had to remove the wheels to get into the lighting area (inside wheel well)... anyhow, the jack points on our cars are shaped for the cheesy little scissor jack in the trunk. How does one lift these cars with a real hydraulic jack?
When I started to use mine with that jack point it looked like it was going to crush it. Does someone make adapters? Or is there another point to jack on? (no comments from the peanut gallery :p )
Also, what are the safe points to put jack stands. I put mine temporarily on the control arm in front, but that seems micky mouse at best.
P
When I started to use mine with that jack point it looked like it was going to crush it. Does someone make adapters? Or is there another point to jack on? (no comments from the peanut gallery :p )
Also, what are the safe points to put jack stands. I put mine temporarily on the control arm in front, but that seems micky mouse at best.
P
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From: Sitting behind thing freakin desk of mine. Dreaming I was playing my Taylors, and driving my Benz. Long Live The VRAA!!!!!!
C230 Sports Coupe
I bet its in the manual. look for it
PS I went easy on you
PS I went easy on you
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Chicagoland, IL
09 C63
had to disclaimer this one!
Anyhow, I looked in the manual. And unfortunately it is written for folks that don't like to get their hands dirty.. you know.. the ones that on a flat tire, open the rear, take out the gloves in the jack area, then call roadside assistace
So it doesn't cover shop jacks.
Keep them guesses comin' y'all.
P
Anyhow, I looked in the manual. And unfortunately it is written for folks that don't like to get their hands dirty.. you know.. the ones that on a flat tire, open the rear, take out the gloves in the jack area, then call roadside assistace
So it doesn't cover shop jacks.
Keep them guesses comin' y'all.
P
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From: San Diego, CA
C32 AMG
Yeah, I noticed that too. It was a good idea on MB's part though because a lot of people would otherwise be affraid to use the jack (D'oh, now I have no side skirts, lol). I am also removing the wheels, but for cleaning purposes.
Quick question: I don't have a proper wrench to torque the lugs (what a shame), only the socket wrench that comes in the spare kit. I had to purchase it separately you know, C32 owners were jacked, no pun intended.
Anyway, when I put the wheel back on, I assume I just tighten the lugs as tight as I can get them by hand. Then should I take the car to MB to have them properly torqued?
Quick question: I don't have a proper wrench to torque the lugs (what a shame), only the socket wrench that comes in the spare kit. I had to purchase it separately you know, C32 owners were jacked, no pun intended.
Anyway, when I put the wheel back on, I assume I just tighten the lugs as tight as I can get them by hand. Then should I take the car to MB to have them properly torqued?
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Searching on "Jack Adapter" I found Avlis's excellent thread from several months ago. The Hockey puck sounds like a wonderful idea...
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...t=jack+adapter
That Search Function sure works nice...
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...t=jack+adapter
That Search Function sure works nice...
Last edited by MB-BOB; Sep 4, 2002 at 04:00 PM.
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From: Vancouver, WA
2001 C240 / 6-speed
The most effective jack points on most MB's, W203 included are on the front crossmember and the rear differential housing.
For the front jack point, look under the front of the car and you will see a nice, recessed area about one foot back from the front of the car. In that recessed area is a rectangular rubber block. Put your floor jack under there for lifting the front of the car.
On the rear diff housing, put the jack under the largest part of the housing as the support from the diff to the chassis is just above that.
One tip is to use a hockey puck on the seat of your floor jack for protection.
Another tip is to break down and buy a torque wrench to properly tighten lugs yourself. The tool probably costs the same amount as a dealer would charge to torque the lugs once for you.
For the front jack point, look under the front of the car and you will see a nice, recessed area about one foot back from the front of the car. In that recessed area is a rectangular rubber block. Put your floor jack under there for lifting the front of the car.
On the rear diff housing, put the jack under the largest part of the housing as the support from the diff to the chassis is just above that.
One tip is to use a hockey puck on the seat of your floor jack for protection.
Another tip is to break down and buy a torque wrench to properly tighten lugs yourself. The tool probably costs the same amount as a dealer would charge to torque the lugs once for you.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: San Diego, CA
C32 AMG
Originally posted by patronus
Another tip is to break down and buy a torque wrench to properly tighten lugs yourself. The tool probably costs the same amount as a dealer would charge to torque the lugs once for you.
Another tip is to break down and buy a torque wrench to properly tighten lugs yourself. The tool probably costs the same amount as a dealer would charge to torque the lugs once for you.
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally posted by JustinTRW
Anyway, when I put the wheel back on, I assume I just tighten the lugs as tight as I can get them by hand. Then should I take the car to MB to have them properly torqued?
Anyway, when I put the wheel back on, I assume I just tighten the lugs as tight as I can get them by hand. Then should I take the car to MB to have them properly torqued?
My suggestion would be: yes, take it to any decent wheel shop that has a torque wrench (not torque sticks - stay away from them) and re-torque the lugs.
Try to never overtorque them as alloy wheels are very fragile and can crack. Also, I heard that overtorquing/uneven torquing can cause rotor warpage (yet I don't know anyone to confirm that by experience).
Get a decent torque wrench at Home Depot or Sears - one with a long handle, they are not prohibitively expensive.
Last edited by vadim; Sep 4, 2002 at 04:08 PM.
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From: Vancouver, WA
2001 C240 / 6-speed
I bought mine at Sears. I have the clicking variety (it clicks in your hand when you reach the correct torque....very easy to tell). Wheel lug torque is specified at 81 ft-lb for virtually all MB alloy wheels, so get a torque wrench that accomodates that easily (maybe up to 150 to 200 ft-lb range so that you do not operate it at its limit all of the time).
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From: Arizona
2007 GL450 2010 GL550 2020 Sprinter 4x4
I had the same question when I was painting my calipers. Jacking the car up wasn't a problem with the MB jack, but where to put the jack stand? I had hoped to do 2 wheels at time, but I wasn't confident with any of my options on where to put the jack stands. I just did one wheel at a time.
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From: Los Angeles
2002 c230k
Originally posted by JustinTRW
Ali also informed me of the near necessity for a wheel hanger. Who has removed wheels without one?
Ali also informed me of the near necessity for a wheel hanger. Who has removed wheels without one?
Member
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From: Vancouver, WA
2001 C240 / 6-speed
Actually, a wheel hangar COULD be the threaded rod that you use to re-mount the wheel. This can be found in your tool kit.
It is an aluminum rod that you thread onto a lug hole before mounting the wheel. You then simply hang the wheel from this rod, push it on the hub and all of the lug holes are lined up!
Cool.
It is an aluminum rod that you thread onto a lug hole before mounting the wheel. You then simply hang the wheel from this rod, push it on the hub and all of the lug holes are lined up!
Cool.
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Ashburn, VA
'19 GLC 300, '19 TM3SR+
Originally posted by JustinTRW
Ali also informed me of the near necessity for a wheel hanger. Who has removed wheels without one?
Ali also informed me of the near necessity for a wheel hanger. Who has removed wheels without one?
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Chicagoland, IL
09 C63
Great tips folks.
As far as torque wrench, yep just go to sears. Craftsman has a nice one and you can get the proper size socket (look for impact wrench sockets) that will give you the right size and depth.
Then when money is no object, go to Griot's Garage and get the nice rubber coated sockets so you won't scratch your wheel.
Furthermore - I can be the first to confirm that uneven wheel bolt torque WILL warp rotors. I cross-threaded one of 5 bolts on my BMW. Not knowing any better at the time - and figuring (incorrectly) that 4 bolts is enough for now - I used some loktite and torqued the other 4. Some 200-300 miles later - new rotors please. Not only that, but I bent my hub - new hub please. So use my expensive lesson. Torque evenly. Don't mess around guessing.
P
As far as torque wrench, yep just go to sears. Craftsman has a nice one and you can get the proper size socket (look for impact wrench sockets) that will give you the right size and depth.
Then when money is no object, go to Griot's Garage and get the nice rubber coated sockets so you won't scratch your wheel.
Furthermore - I can be the first to confirm that uneven wheel bolt torque WILL warp rotors. I cross-threaded one of 5 bolts on my BMW. Not knowing any better at the time - and figuring (incorrectly) that 4 bolts is enough for now - I used some loktite and torqued the other 4. Some 200-300 miles later - new rotors please. Not only that, but I bent my hub - new hub please. So use my expensive lesson. Torque evenly. Don't mess around guessing.
P
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Originally posted by patronus
The most effective jack points on most MB's, W203 included are on the front crossmember and the rear differential housing.
The most effective jack points on most MB's, W203 included are on the front crossmember and the rear differential housing.
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From: Nashua, NH
2008 VW GTI
Originally posted by MB-BOB
Searching on "Jack Adapter" I found Avlis's excellent thread from several months ago. The Hockey puck sounds like a wonderful idea...
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...t=jack+adapter
That Search Function sure works nice...
Searching on "Jack Adapter" I found Avlis's excellent thread from several months ago. The Hockey puck sounds like a wonderful idea...
https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...t=jack+adapter
That Search Function sure works nice...
I got the adapter made and it's a fine piece...Too bad I haven't used it yet. I carry it around in one of the little pockets under the trunk floor. Maybe that's the excuse I need to rotate my tires.
They used to say jacking solid rear axle cars by the diff was a no-no for the reasons mentioned above. I dont think the same rule applies to cars with IRS. The diff is solidly mounted to a steel frame via rubber bushings. Jacking the car by the diff transmits the weight of the car through the diff housing, rubber bushings/bolts and into the steel frame. The seals are an integral part of the diff housing and wont see any of the car's weight. I don't see a problem with jacking from here as long as the diff housing and mounting bolts can take the strain.
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From: Nashua, NH
2008 VW GTI
The lower arms of the rear suspension have plastic "belly-pans" under them. If the plastic pieces are easily removed, you might be able to place a stand under each arm.
If not, you can try jacking the car up from the center points (crossmember and diff) and place a stand under the factory jackpoints under the doors. In that case, it would be easier just to use wheel ramps as long as you don't need to remove the wheels.
If not, you can try jacking the car up from the center points (crossmember and diff) and place a stand under the factory jackpoints under the doors. In that case, it would be easier just to use wheel ramps as long as you don't need to remove the wheels.
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From: CT
Torque wrench is nice to have around
A torque wrench is a nice tool to have around. I use mine to torque the lawnmower blades to the factory spec. I wouldn't want the mower blade flying off! A torque wrench is one of those things that you wind up using a lot once you have it.
