Brake Rotors and Pads
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
c230k
So I had placed an order thinking everything would be ok for some brakes at
http://www.formymercedes.com/porterfield.asp
Only to get a call this morning and be told something about a brake sensor etc etc etc so I just cancelled the order cause it sounded iffy.
http://www.formymercedes.com/porterfield.asp
Only to get a call this morning and be told something about a brake sensor etc etc etc so I just cancelled the order cause it sounded iffy.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 339
From: Charlotte, NC
Had: 1987 300TD, Had: 2004 C230 Sport Sedan, Have: 2014 E350 Sport, Have: 2019 S450
So I had placed an order thinking everything would be ok for some brakes at
http://www.formymercedes.com/porterfield.asp
Only to get a call this morning and be told something about a brake sensor etc etc etc so I just cancelled the order cause it sounded iffy.
http://www.formymercedes.com/porterfield.asp
Only to get a call this morning and be told something about a brake sensor etc etc etc so I just cancelled the order cause it sounded iffy.
The pads are great - much less dust (about 10% of the original pads), better stopping torque, no squeal (when installed/burnished using the materials and instructions provided with the pads).
You will need to pick up a pad wear sensor at the dealer - if your has already been activated - otherwise you can reinstall the one presently in your factory pads (the Porterfields are even pre-drilled to accept the sensor).
I installed AutoZone's Duralast Semi-Mets on the wife's Passat, and now I regret doing so. They are rather greasy, requiring a lot more pedal pressure to stop at the same rate. If we weren't planning to trade the Passat in January, I'd be switching it to Porterfields as well.
There's really nothing squirrely about the deal. I'd go ahead and get the Porterfields, and get the pad sensor from the dealer (only about $4 if I remember correctly). Installation of the fronts takes about 20' each (if you need to remove/replace the rotors), and installation of the rears takes about 5' each (no bolts - only a tension clip and a pin to remove).
For me, ForMyMercedes and Porterfield get:
Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
c230k
I have a 2005 c230k he said something about my car was different and hed have to go get something custom cut and sounded like a big hassle and made it sound iffy. I had already placed the order for them but he gave me a call this morning and told me all of this and didnt make the product sound very good so I cancelled.
Last edited by jlee-; Nov 1, 2006 at 02:14 PM.
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,692
Likes: 58
From: So Cal.
2019 GT3 RS, 2017 M3 30 Jahre
http://www.racepages.com/performance...78&brandid=642
Give these a try, I know Zimm does good stuff for the Volvos and German made too ~?
Give these a try, I know Zimm does good stuff for the Volvos and German made too ~?
I just picked my car up from the dealer and I have around 5000 miles left in the rear brakes (they've never been changed). So, I might as well change the rotors as well too. I think I may just stick to the factory rear pads if they've lasted this long...
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,011
Likes: 3
From: global traveller
some slow@$$diesels
C32 brakes suck
My C270CDI wore out 1 set of (C32) front brake pads in 14k kilometer (8.750 miles) and warped the rotors within 20k kilometer (12.500 miles)...I just renewed the rotors and pads due to a lack of SLK55 callipers (I already have the freaking expensive SLK55 rotors) and due to the fact that whenever I used the brakes my fillings tended to leave my teeth (which got really anoying on my last 1000km drive with lots of slowing down from 220+kmh to 100kmh)...
I truelly do not understand how people can be satisfied with these brakes...these heat up so extremely fast and easy AND I DRIVE A DIESEL!
the C36 brakes under my C250D are soo much better...I can only imagine what a poss it must be to drive a C55 with these same sissy brakes...
greetingz,
My C270CDI wore out 1 set of (C32) front brake pads in 14k kilometer (8.750 miles) and warped the rotors within 20k kilometer (12.500 miles)...I just renewed the rotors and pads due to a lack of SLK55 callipers (I already have the freaking expensive SLK55 rotors) and due to the fact that whenever I used the brakes my fillings tended to leave my teeth (which got really anoying on my last 1000km drive with lots of slowing down from 220+kmh to 100kmh)...
I truelly do not understand how people can be satisfied with these brakes...these heat up so extremely fast and easy AND I DRIVE A DIESEL!
the C36 brakes under my C250D are soo much better...I can only imagine what a poss it must be to drive a C55 with these same sissy brakes...
greetingz,
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Diamond Bar & Anaheim, CA
2003 C-Class Sportcoupe
C32 brakes suck
C32 brakes suck
My C270CDI wore out 1 set of (C32) front brake pads in 14k kilometer (8.750 miles) and warped the rotors within 20k kilometer (12.500 miles)...I just renewed the rotors and pads due to a lack of SLK55 callipers (I already have the freaking expensive SLK55 rotors) and due to the fact that whenever I used the brakes my fillings tended to leave my teeth (which got really anoying on my last 1000km drive with lots of slowing down from 220+kmh to 100kmh)...
I truelly do not understand how people can be satisfied with these brakes...these heat up so extremely fast and easy AND I DRIVE A DIESEL!
the C36 brakes under my C250D are soo much better...I can only imagine what a poss it must be to drive a C55 with these same sissy brakes...
greetingz,
My C270CDI wore out 1 set of (C32) front brake pads in 14k kilometer (8.750 miles) and warped the rotors within 20k kilometer (12.500 miles)...I just renewed the rotors and pads due to a lack of SLK55 callipers (I already have the freaking expensive SLK55 rotors) and due to the fact that whenever I used the brakes my fillings tended to leave my teeth (which got really anoying on my last 1000km drive with lots of slowing down from 220+kmh to 100kmh)...
I truelly do not understand how people can be satisfied with these brakes...these heat up so extremely fast and easy AND I DRIVE A DIESEL!
the C36 brakes under my C250D are soo much better...I can only imagine what a poss it must be to drive a C55 with these same sissy brakes...
greetingz,
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: redondo beach, ca
2005 C230 SS
i posted this on another thread, i hope i dont get in trouble by the moderators...
but..here it goes....
My breake light came on, but its only been 12k miles since my last brake job was done! and it was done at the dealership...from reading various post it seems that OEM brakes are lasting about 25k. could it be a bad sensor? or 'dumb' car computer? weird thing is that the light would come on like once every other day, not constanly like when i got my first brake job done at the dealership. It came on today while driving, not even hitting the brakes but not yesterday. Reason i came to this thread is because i wanna do my own brakes, i think the dealership charges WAAAy too much. But i was looking at the autozone brakes and I did a search for the 2005 c230, but the results say:
Application:
Except Sports model
uhm...arent ALL 2005 c230's in america Sports Models?? Just wanna know if anyone actually INSTALLED or is using the autozone brakes on their 2005+ w203. Or any other brakes...but i still dont think my brake light should be on at 12k miles....
but..here it goes....
My breake light came on, but its only been 12k miles since my last brake job was done! and it was done at the dealership...from reading various post it seems that OEM brakes are lasting about 25k. could it be a bad sensor? or 'dumb' car computer? weird thing is that the light would come on like once every other day, not constanly like when i got my first brake job done at the dealership. It came on today while driving, not even hitting the brakes but not yesterday. Reason i came to this thread is because i wanna do my own brakes, i think the dealership charges WAAAy too much. But i was looking at the autozone brakes and I did a search for the 2005 c230, but the results say:
Application:
Except Sports model
uhm...arent ALL 2005 c230's in america Sports Models?? Just wanna know if anyone actually INSTALLED or is using the autozone brakes on their 2005+ w203. Or any other brakes...but i still dont think my brake light should be on at 12k miles....
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 619
Likes: 2
/////AMG
i posted this on another thread, i hope i dont get in trouble by the moderators...
but..here it goes....
My breake light came on, but its only been 12k miles since my last brake job was done! and it was done at the dealership...from reading various post it seems that OEM brakes are lasting about 25k. could it be a bad sensor? or 'dumb' car computer? weird thing is that the light would come on like once every other day, not constanly like when i got my first brake job done at the dealership. It came on today while driving, not even hitting the brakes but not yesterday. Reason i came to this thread is because i wanna do my own brakes, i think the dealership charges WAAAy too much. But i was looking at the autozone brakes and I did a search for the 2005 c230, but the results say:
Application:
Except Sports model
uhm...arent ALL 2005 c230's in america Sports Models?? Just wanna know if anyone actually INSTALLED or is using the autozone brakes on their 2005+ w203. Or any other brakes...but i still dont think my brake light should be on at 12k miles....
but..here it goes....
My breake light came on, but its only been 12k miles since my last brake job was done! and it was done at the dealership...from reading various post it seems that OEM brakes are lasting about 25k. could it be a bad sensor? or 'dumb' car computer? weird thing is that the light would come on like once every other day, not constanly like when i got my first brake job done at the dealership. It came on today while driving, not even hitting the brakes but not yesterday. Reason i came to this thread is because i wanna do my own brakes, i think the dealership charges WAAAy too much. But i was looking at the autozone brakes and I did a search for the 2005 c230, but the results say:
Application:
Except Sports model
uhm...arent ALL 2005 c230's in america Sports Models?? Just wanna know if anyone actually INSTALLED or is using the autozone brakes on their 2005+ w203. Or any other brakes...but i still dont think my brake light should be on at 12k miles....
To my understanding, 2005 C230's are considered sport model i.e. equipped with 2 pistons front brake, while very few lucky individuals will have 4 pistons. Your profile picture tells me you have a 2 piston. I usually ignore a warning lamp on the dash board unless it's constantly on. 12k to replace brake pads seem awkward to me unless you're braking really hard on a daily basis.
I went to a local shop that focuses on Mercedes, Lexus and BMW. Charged me under 500 for new rotors, brake pads, brake fluid and labor.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,211
Likes: 2
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
My brakes, 4 piston, are already half worn and I have over 30K miles. Each person drives differently and my wife goes through brakes on any car in 12-15K miles but my daughter that lives in the most congested part of LA gets brake life similar to me. The sensor is a very simple device. It's a wire that you press into a hole about 1/16" away from the backing plate. When that wire is exposed and grounds to the rotor the light goes off. If it were to fall out of it's hole, it would never trip. You can visually see how much pad that is left by looking at the pads through the wheel but you will only see the outside pad and if the caliper piston was sticking it maybe more worn on the inside. If you take the wheel off, calipers have a viewing opening on top of them that lets you see both pads.
Many dealers insist on new rotors when redoing brakes, specially with cross drilled rotors. So figure a complete pads and rotor brake job would cost you about $200 for parts and another $200 labor. Some dealers don't do rotors if they are not warped or worn beyond specs and then it's about $80 for pads. It takes an experience mechanic with a lift and air tools about 20 minutes to do pads and rotors but the mechanic gets to bill more hours the more he can charge you, just a way of life. Why even post hourly rates is beyond me, it's all a scam anyway. Best way out of it, do it yourself. I put ceramic pads in my kid's SLK and they are fantastic, zero dust.
Many dealers insist on new rotors when redoing brakes, specially with cross drilled rotors. So figure a complete pads and rotor brake job would cost you about $200 for parts and another $200 labor. Some dealers don't do rotors if they are not warped or worn beyond specs and then it's about $80 for pads. It takes an experience mechanic with a lift and air tools about 20 minutes to do pads and rotors but the mechanic gets to bill more hours the more he can charge you, just a way of life. Why even post hourly rates is beyond me, it's all a scam anyway. Best way out of it, do it yourself. I put ceramic pads in my kid's SLK and they are fantastic, zero dust.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: redondo beach, ca
2005 C230 SS
To my understanding, 2005 C230's are considered sport model i.e. equipped with 2 pistons front brake, while very few lucky individuals will have 4 pistons. Your profile picture tells me you have a 2 piston. I usually ignore a warning lamp on the dash board unless it's constantly on. 12k to replace brake pads seem awkward to me unless you're braking really hard on a daily basis.
I went to a local shop that focuses on Mercedes, Lexus and BMW. Charged me under 500 for new rotors, brake pads, brake fluid and labor.
I went to a local shop that focuses on Mercedes, Lexus and BMW. Charged me under 500 for new rotors, brake pads, brake fluid and labor.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: redondo beach, ca
2005 C230 SS
To my understanding, 2005 C230's are considered sport model i.e. equipped with 2 pistons front brake, while very few lucky individuals will have 4 pistons. Your profile picture tells me you have a 2 piston. I usually ignore a warning lamp on the dash board unless it's constantly on. 12k to replace brake pads seem awkward to me unless you're braking really hard on a daily basis.
I went to a local shop that focuses on Mercedes, Lexus and BMW. Charged me under 500 for new rotors, brake pads, brake fluid and labor.
I went to a local shop that focuses on Mercedes, Lexus and BMW. Charged me under 500 for new rotors, brake pads, brake fluid and labor.
sounds like a good deal!!
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: redondo beach, ca
2005 C230 SS
My brakes, 4 piston, are already half worn and I have over 30K miles. Each person drives differently and my wife goes through brakes on any car in 12-15K miles but my daughter that lives in the most congested part of LA gets brake life similar to me. The sensor is a very simple device. It's a wire that you press into a hole about 1/16" away from the backing plate. When that wire is exposed and grounds to the rotor the light goes off. If it were to fall out of it's hole, it would never trip. You can visually see how much pad that is left by looking at the pads through the wheel but you will only see the outside pad and if the caliper piston was sticking it maybe more worn on the inside. If you take the wheel off, calipers have a viewing opening on top of them that lets you see both pads.
Many dealers insist on new rotors when redoing brakes, specially with cross drilled rotors. So figure a complete pads and rotor brake job would cost you about $200 for parts and another $200 labor. Some dealers don't do rotors if they are not warped or worn beyond specs and then it's about $80 for pads. It takes an experience mechanic with a lift and air tools about 20 minutes to do pads and rotors but the mechanic gets to bill more hours the more he can charge you, just a way of life. Why even post hourly rates is beyond me, it's all a scam anyway. Best way out of it, do it yourself. I put ceramic pads in my kid's SLK and they are fantastic, zero dust.
Many dealers insist on new rotors when redoing brakes, specially with cross drilled rotors. So figure a complete pads and rotor brake job would cost you about $200 for parts and another $200 labor. Some dealers don't do rotors if they are not warped or worn beyond specs and then it's about $80 for pads. It takes an experience mechanic with a lift and air tools about 20 minutes to do pads and rotors but the mechanic gets to bill more hours the more he can charge you, just a way of life. Why even post hourly rates is beyond me, it's all a scam anyway. Best way out of it, do it yourself. I put ceramic pads in my kid's SLK and they are fantastic, zero dust.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 258
Likes: 1
From: redondo beach, ca
2005 C230 SS
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Plenty of great info in this thread. I took my car in for some fixable things on Tuesday (armrest, broken door handle, weather stripping ect.) and received a call today with the whole brake pads and rotors story. I'm at 38k miles and mb quoted me at almost $750. What a rip off. I'm going to trade in my 05 c230 for the new 300 sport in about two months so is it even worth dropping the dough? Should I buy just cheap OEM products and take it to a mech or do the Pep Boys route as mentioned before?
Last edited by Zillarpillow23; Aug 11, 2007 at 05:45 AM.
