DCX Engineer

The ASP pulley was shown to increase Buellwinkle's hp by 29 and torque by 35. With the stock air filter he lost 5.9hp and 2.0 ft-lb torque. Note, this was with base settings, therefore lean.

I have not seen the dyno results from Stage II and base ignition, but I am extremely happy with my performance gains for the $369 spent (includes pulley, $7 s/h and $12 belt).

BlackC230Coupe

did u get the Belt from ASP.

Buellwinkle

ASP doesn't sell belts. It's a very popular size and available at most auto supply stores. Ask for a 56" 6-rib belt. I paid $18.95 at Pep Boys but $12 sounds way better.

BlackC230Coupe

and thats the only thing i would need to go along with the ASP pully?

Benzer

THANKS A MILLION

This is all I need to take the plunge.

I am waiting to complete my self imposed 6 month breakin period. Just to make sure I would not have any nasty surprises.
Then the pulley it is.

220 HP & 230 Ft-LB WOW
for less than 400 bucks. WOWWWWW


THANKS ALL

Buellwinkle

BlackC230Coupe, all you need other than tools to install if you are doing it yourself.

Benzer, allow yourself a month lead time to order the pulley so you won't be dissapointed when you are ready.

DCX Engineer

I purchased the new belt from Advance Auto. I was happily surprised, because most mentioned they paid around $18. Mine was a Dayco Drive Rite 560k6/5060560dr. There was an earlier post with a picture of the pulley and belt with part number. This board rocks!

Sorry, but I forgot to add the cost of new rear tires to the pulley upgrade total. ha ha

vadim

Yes. Plus, proper tools - if you are to do the swap yourself, of course.

BlackC230Coupe

i think if i get it i will have a shop install it for me so its done right just incase i get stuck in the middle. and since i heard its harder to do on an auto.

how much do u think a place would charge me to install the pully? a ballpark price. and how long will it take?

Lynn

Ballpark price of the pulley install is about $150.

QC1

Im probably going to take it to a shop so I dont have to worry about Belt Sizes & Tools. Does anyone have a website or phone # for ASP? Also does the pulley void any warranties?

Buellwinkle

Call Lee at ASPRacing.com at 1-877-928-8678. Don't try to order from their website, it's not there.

Don't know how an aftermarket pulley affects warranties in foreign countries. In the U.S. there are laws to protect consumers against manufacturers' denying warrantties because of aftermarket parts.

20FHK02

I just installed the ASP pulley and want to share some notes on Buellwinkle's installation guide:

On Step 8: Remove intake hose on right side of air filter box by pressing on clip that sticks out and [turn it to the left; then] pull hose away from air filter box and pull straight up.

I also needed to pry off the factory pulley, but I was able to slide the ASP pulley a little bit onto the crack shaft, then use the bolt to guide it in place. Total installation time was about 1.5 hours and I was going super slow.

From the test drive experience: very noticeable power increase from gears 1 through 4 at base ECU and ignition settings. But also because of that I was hestitated to floor the gas so I did not notice any significant gain at higher gears. Anyway, all I wanted was more lower band power, and I barely floor the gas, so I am happy with this

Thank all of you who provided helpful inputs and opinions related to the pulley. I love this forum!

mdp c230k

As long as the aftermarket part didn't cause the problem. They have to prove that it did in order to void the warranty.

young

i think you're pretty much screwed if something goes wrong. that act is nice on paper, but unless you're willing to take legal action (and how many of us are?), in reality, you don't have much choice.

luckily, there is a german car specialist nearby... i wonder how much they'd charge for swaybar installation? 1 hour labor?

Benzer

Hello vaDim - I think this is a good time to ask

Can you give up one more update on the pulley peroformance and any side effects (good or bad)??? I will be off the 6 months "test drive" period in January and the addition of a pulley is on my schedule.

Thanks
Benzer

Gary

vadim,

which dealer in NOVA changed your ECU settings, do you have a contact person there?

vadim

A few thousand miles with the pulley - no side effects (that can be easily noticed, that is). Same strong performance as on day 1; no oil leaks; no additional vibrations; no rough idle; no torque peaks or dips.

The engine is noticeably louder, especially at idle and at WOT, otherwise the same or close. I like it better this way, as the increased S/C whine/growl masks the notorious clickety-clack sound that many detest so much (myself included). As a matter of fact, I wouldn't mind having a deeper bass note in the exhaust sound.

So - I'd say go for it! The day you put it in your face will look like this ->

zimmer26

How's your gas mileage now versus B.P.(before pulley)?

vadim

About the same (heavy foot )

vadim

Gary - check your PM

hrh

When installing any pulley or gear such as this, and the new pulley is too tight on the shaft to install without force, a time-honored trick is to heat the pulley gradually, up to a reasonable operating temperature as it would see in regular use.

For something as small as the pulley, a toaster oven will do.

The pulley should slip right on the shaft after that, particularly if the shaft is cold (and therefore at its smallest).

Don't forget to use a glove or potholder, or the pulley install will be the last thing on your mind as you undergo skin grafts.

DCXdynodog

So...which is it?

vadim

Good question It's the latter... The first quote reflected my being worried - I guess I was too concerned about the results at the time. Or maybe the ECU was still adjusting to the pulley.

DCXdynodog

Good deal I can definately become "oversensitized" when concerned, so I understand that

Part throttle operation the ECU will most certainly have a "learning curve" for the extra airflow, but WOT fuel/spark values are usually mapped into lookup tables (this is what the "stage 2" or "base" settings alter) with an active knock sensor being able to pull spark out. Systems I am familiar with have multiple spark tables for the knock sensor to use (i.e. -short term and long term knock) so it pulls a small amount of spark initially and if it still sees knock it goes to the next table and pulls a lot of spark out.

MB products are calibrated for 91 r+m octane (95ron) so if you can get 93 r+m (97-98 ron) you have some cushion (which probably evaporates with the extra boost and may end up being close to "just right")

The engine will have more roughness at WOT for sure (you eliminated the torsional damper) but that does not mean you will feel it in the car. These vehicles have a lot of effort put into NVH so that vibrations won't make to us.

Good Luck and enjoy the extra power. These cars should have more power for the cost in my view. I think MB would sell many more if they ever figure this out But don't anyone hold their breath...it gets worse in a few years from what I'm hearing.

sorry for the rambling, hope some of it helps.