Chamber kits?
Last edited by Benzino; Dec 31, 2006 at 02:22 PM.
I'm not clear on what exactly is going on with your car... You lowered it, I got that.. But cutting only one spring? I don't understand... did you cut off One revolution on each spring all around?
If you did cut, I would say thats not good. The spring will change as it gets warm and cold, so you can never really make the same distance cut on each strut unless you used an engineering formula and a micrometer
jmo
I'm not clear on what exactly is going on with your car... You lowered it, I got that.. But cutting only one spring? I don't understand... did you cut off One revolution on each spring all around?
If you did cut, I would say thats not good. The spring will change as it gets warm and cold, so you can never really make the same distance cut on each strut unless you used an engineering formula and a micrometer
jmo
my car is cut one full spring and the tire is wearing out on the inside i think im not even sure i will check later
By cutting the springs you made your triangle deformed by changing the sizes of the sides of the triangle. A2+B2=C2. Therefore, your two contact points on the tire are no longer flush with the surface of the road. Thats why you are wearing unevenly.
The springs that you cut, are they the OEM springs or aftermarket lowering springs? If you cut the OEM springs to the specs of the aftermarket lowering springs, you should be fine. However, if you cut the aftermarket springs even lower, you will no longer have the OEM sizes for each side of your contact triangle, therefore the triangle is no longer flush, or even with the surface of the road.
I hope this helps
By cutting the springs you made your triangle deformed by changing the sizes of the sides of the triangle. A2+B2=C2. Therefore, your two contact points on the tire are no longer flush with the surface of the road. Thats why you are wearing unevenly.
The springs that you cut, are they the OEM springs or aftermarket lowering springs? If you cut the OEM springs to the specs of the aftermarket lowering springs, you should be fine. However, if you cut the aftermarket springs even lower, you will no longer have the OEM sizes for each side of your contact triangle, therefore the triangle is no longer flush, or even with the surface of the road.
I hope this helps

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Somone mentioned something about camber adjusting lugs, maybe check that one out. Other than that I would say get new springs and dont cut them. If you want to go lower, get air ride? Then you can at least adjust the vehicle for when you encounter those steep spots in the city. I've seen lowered cars get stuck on those like a teeder tooder and it was funny as hell. I personally can't lower mine because in florida we have sink holes and i would scrape way too much for me... so what do i know about lowering lol
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Somone mentioned something about camber adjusting lugs, maybe check that one out. Other than that I would say get new springs and dont cut them. If you want to go lower, get air ride? Then you can at least adjust the vehicle for when you encounter those steep spots in the city. I've seen lowered cars get stuck on those like a teeder tooder and it was funny as hell. I personally can't lower mine because in florida we have sink holes and i would scrape way too much for me... so what do i know about lowering lol
as far as the camber kit goes, I'd say its worth a try if you have the extra money and really want it lower than what HR can provide. It should fix the "triangle". I don't know what they look like, nor have I ever heard of it. I tried to find Speedybenz website for the camber, nothing... I searched google and came up with nothing as well, other than forum logs.
What size wheels are you using? My 19x9.5 wear unevenly in the back, maybe the camber kit is what I need even though I'm not lowered. However, if my tires are even, it appears that the outer sidewall will rub the body. I could get the fender rolled, but I don't want to repaint my car. So I just leave it and replace the tires when they are due, which is about 40k miles or 1 year of driving for me.
Last edited by sirenebekim; Jan 2, 2007 at 12:05 PM.
the dealership? interesting how much are they there? so will the camber arms fix my problem? if i got my car aligned will my car stop pulling to the right big time?
jmo
my coupe also pulls to the right, not awfully bad but pulls enough for me to notice it. Is not lowered, I took it to check the alignment several times... (yearly alignment membership), tires are new (less than 2k miles) and check the air pressure to make sure are equal...still no clue why it pulls to the right
my coupe also pulls to the right, not awfully bad but pulls enough for me to notice it. Is not lowered, I took it to check the alignment several times... (yearly alignment membership), tires are new (less than 2k miles) and check the air pressure to make sure are equal...still no clue why it pulls to the right 
It's shizznite like this that makes me consider trading it in for either Audi or BMW. None of my friends with those marques have this problem. If you search the forum, you'll come across a lot of "pulling to the right" issues.
Last edited by TA-9FF; Jan 6, 2007 at 12:14 AM.
They have been used on some 20 or so W203 and another 40 or so sets on various other MB models.
Cost is $260 which includes shipping. Paypal info: Kimdac@yahoo.com
The stock MB 5 link set-up allows for adjustment of the rear toe which will also need adjustment after you reset the camber to the correct settings.
Jeff



