SeaCoupe

Anybody know of any posts on any boards with DIY on removing and reinstalling the S/C from a M111 Coupe? I know that it is frowned upon to post other board's links, but if you know of a post please PM me.

I am going to remove my S/C, have it ported and rebuilt. I'm hoping to get say, 5HP out of this, but more importantly get rid of the oil in my intake. At least I'm hoping.

When I do my work this weekend, I'll take complete pics of before and after, and of course, the dyno.

E

advans

E,

its going to be a tough job? i'm guessing not exactly a HP gain, but probably bringing back the loss horses.

good luck on your job!

drexappeal

Wow, Ed! That's awesome. Wish I could say I had a DIY for that.

noreaga0221

It really can't be too hard. Remove serp belt. Remove intercooler piping. Remove oil/coolant lines running to sc if there are even any. Drink a beer. Then unbolt the sc until its free. Of course drain any fluids in the sc.

SeaCoupe

Man, and I just picked the beginning of the year to go dry for 30 days. What timing!!! Every year I go dry for 30 days to clean out the kidneys and what not. After my New Years, whew, I need it.

advans

hahaha E,

are you already having a drink!!!

SeaCoupe

Well, I unbolted some things to take a look at the S/C. Doesn't look too bad at all. In fact, I would say this is totally doable. In reality, I had gone about taking off the S/C plenum/actuation plate to show myself I would be in over my head. Not the case at all. I have pics if you guys want it. Mostly just showing how the oil is effectively everywhere in the compressed air side of the S/C.

No, no drinks. Gotta stick to my 30 day plan. Let me tell you, nothing to me is better than working on a car and having some Gin & Tonic.

Tell you what, I will put up Pics in advance in case anyone knows what these parts are and I be more educated at the parts desk. Typically, the dealer's parts people are clueless.

The only other thing I can see that should be done is to get a header. If you take off the S/C, the Header is RIGHT THERE! Would take about 30 minutes to install, barring no unseen weird stuck bolts showing their head.

Besides, I know the Drex is got power now. He isn't talking about, but I know that man has got mad power now.....Drex???!!!

E

E

drexappeal

errr...not quite yet, bro. Still some stuff to work out...LOL.

SeaCoupe

Just ordered the gaskets I think I'll need.

I'm actually liking the House of Imports Parts dept. John, the parts guy is a genuine car guy. He faxed me the parts pages, and from there I was able to determine what gaskets I would need.

Total on gaskets, and o-rings $90. Rental car for four days $90 w/o insurance. Price I was qouted for the rebuild and porting $395.

So looks like maybe 10 hours of my time, and about $575 not including Fedex charges to get the S/C serviced and maybe get some added go.

Not bad in all. Job starts Sat a.m. So, I'll let you gus know how it goes.

E

drexappeal

I'm really hoping you get some good results on it, E. Hopefully my car will be good by the time of the meet.

Saprissa

sweet Coupe work !!

Let's us know how it goes, and post some pics !!

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

Outland

Make sure you replace the PCV Valve and the hoses going to the intake. Oil in the intake is most often caused by blow by, not a leaky SC.

SeaCoupe

Do you know where this is? The PCV valve? I'm not getting charachteristic blow by smoke.

E

Saprissa

E,
don't forget to take / post some pics of your progress...

thanks !!

Carlos

Saprissa@aol.com

Outland

That's not enough oil to make it burn blue, and besides the cat will mask that.

I'm literally hard down with Bronchitis at the moment, or I would go take some pics for you. Just follow the hoses...I believe ours is a small cartridge type valve in the valve cover.

SeaCoupe

Well, I think that you are more right than ever. S/C and associated intake manifold is out. (Pics to come promise)

This is the two lines that the oil could be coming from. The top line is coming from the top of the valve cover. The bottom line goes somewhere beneath the block. I can't follow it because it is covered by the S/C mounting bracket.


Here is a closer look at how the line disappears down behind the S/C mounting bracket.


So which of these two lines is putting the oil in the S/C? Where the hell is the PVC valve? Do I take off the S/C mounting bracket to get to it?

And for you addicts out there, here is a pic of the S/C and the intake plenum/manifold.


E

PS Complete DIY instructions will be forthcoming.

Saprissa

i love pics !


thanks E

nlpamg

nice! hopefully it'll be all done for the Irvine meet! and then, you'll be smoking Drex and I left and right!

SeaCoupe

I should have it done by Thur. at the latest. Then I need to schedule to dyno. I want to meet Jose anyway. Hey Jose, if you are reading this, can we get in touch to figure out when we can get a dyno done?

I already have my exhaust bought. I am just waiting to get a header. I just want to get over 210 at the rear wheels.

Now, if you bring out the M3 to the meet, I'll do my best not to salivate on your new paint.

E

nlpamg

nice! I can't wait to hear the Supersprint! You gonna put that in before you dyno too?

I don't think I'm gonna bring the M, Carlos already penciled me in for the C-Class and it's gonna be an all MB meet, so I'm gonna represent. (I just waxed the C this weekend and may wax it again before the meet, the wax and other stuff I ordered for the M still hasn't come in yet.)

mig888

You've got PM.

drexappeal

Traitor! Stop Frontin'!

Yo! We have to schedule a caravan again for westsider's and South Bay peeps (Although, I think we better pick a better place than Alpine Village - too crazy there on the weekend).

nlpamg

cool, cool. I was just about to ask about that. I'll look into it. How about the Southbay Pavillion Mall (Ikea). It's right off the 405 and I'm sure it has tons of parking.

Outland

The source of your oil is most likely the larger hose, if the valve has failed, or stuck open. If its stuck closed, then the oil will well up in the smaller vent line. What this little gizmo is, is just a big ball bearing, with a spring on top of it...when the pressure from internal gases in the motor builds up, it opens and allows those gases to burn in the engine. There's also usually a chunk of foam, or more likely a polishing pad material in there to act as a screen, to keep oil from flinging past the valve at high RPM.

I'm still to out of it go find out on my own car, but Ive had two four bangers with the chain driven DOHC layout, and both had nearly identical routing. I've not yet checked the one on my Benz, because I have no oil in the intake. So, without getting my sick *** out of bed, and going out in the very cold garage( this is Winter in the midwest after all) here's my best guess until I can verify it with a service manual or on my own car. The larger diameter hose is usually the one that the PCV valve attaches to. The Valve itself can be quite small. On my Saturn it was about the size of your thumb. It inserted itself into the end of the hose, and then that end plugged into the valve cover. I'd look on the left side of the valve cover, usually a crimped hose. Depending on hose and the size of the valve it can be easy to over look. It may even be the outlet sticking out of the valve cover itself...give it a good pull. I'd hate to think MB was so stupid to put it on the inside of the valve cover, but I have seen worse. In Harley engines they build them into the valvetrain support plate, on a ford I used to own it was this white plastic POS stuck on the inside of the valve cover...

Also, If I'm not mistaken, there should be an emmissions component label on the radiator cross member, or somewhere thereabouts. It may have a crude map which should identify the location of the PCV valve.

If your still involved with this when I'm back on my feet, I'll go out and verify on my own car where it is. Nice job on the DIY...I'm so sick of listening to the "pay the monkey to do it for me crowd". 90% of every assembly on an engine is easy...even the harder stuff isn't that bad, after all these engines are built on assembly lines probably turning them out at a rate of 60+ an hour.

Good luck, and let me know how you make out.

SeaCoupe

Thanks for the encourgement on the DIY Outland. Problem is, I LOVE to take things apart. Putting them back together is another thing. But I'm confident in getting the S/C back on.

So, yes the S/C made its way out to MO to Stiegemeier (sp?).

As for the PCV valve. The outlet from the valve cover is larger yes, but then a hose goes over it, and it connects to the black baffle thing that goes over the S/C plenum. This black bit has specific turns and baffles in it that appear to WANT to trap the oil. In fact there is a very small black hose that goes from the black baffles back to the plenum to drain excess oil. This hose however is only about 1/8th of an inch as oppossed to the 1/4 hoses that come from the valve cover and block. (Better pics to come when I get back to my car)

But I am wondering if the PCV valve is actually mounted underneath the S/C mount to the block. It is the only thing I can't see. But to get that S/C mount off means wrangling with the tensioner bearing and the alternator. Hey, call me lazy, but I'm doing the DIY, with nothing more than Rush on the CD player, and NO alcohol.

Outland no worries, I think I can figure out a vent system. While I was driving my little Ford Foci rental tonight I was thinking that possible I could pick up some extra horse from not putting Crankcase gas back into the intake.

E