mleskovar

There's several DIY posts on this procedure, just leave out the ones that you don't need. Unfortunately all those pieces are interconnected to a certain point. It's been three years since I did my last one and my memory doesn't stretch to that detail

Basa

Thanks,

There is particularly one very detailed one from racin_fool posted sometime in 2007. But you know, at that level (opening that many items) it tends to become like the "can of worms" so I am trying to avoid it.

Have you ever fixed or looked at the back of the steering column where that motor sits (for tilting the steering wheel)? If you have, I will ask you something about it, if not, I won't give you a headache.

Wharton

Do not pry it. It turns like any screw would - stick a flat plastic wedge (or a screwdriver) between the ignition housing and the ring; you will notice small indentations on the inside of the ring - that's where the wedge/screwdriver goes. Then turn the ring with by pushing the wedge counterclockwise.

luca67

Hello,
thanks for this great post
I just did this repair on my 2003 C320. Followed the instructions and pics step by step. It took a few hours but everything went well.
Took me a while to figure how to remove the cover for the rear fan in the glove box. It has 2 inner tabs in the front that somehow at some point opened up...
Step 15th was challenging, until I realized I had not removed the top center screw holding the cage in place!!
Nonetheless to reinstall the cage was a pain and I ended up trimming the tabs a little to be able to pop them back in place.
Replaced the 2 levers, though one does not seem broken at all: the motor felt like it was stuck, but now it's working fine. The new levers in kit #A203-830-00-33 are marked Left and Right, and have a slightly different angle compared to the old faulty ones. I think that makes a difference.

Anyway, my HVAC now works fine and the passenger footwell doesn't get freezing air anymore...

Thanks again for the post

Luca

skyking1231

first off.... what a wonderfull site/forum !!!

I have the c230 kompressor 2002 coupe. I tore apart the dashboard...thanks to racin's instructions. (btw...anyone have a problem removing the stepper motor with the brace/ dash support??? that thing is welded and very very hard to get at 2 of the 3 screws). Anyway the motors appear fine...it is rthe linkage. dealer has them $17. I will replace the linkage...but here is my question:

Do i need to orient the gears/linkage in any sort of way before i put it back together ???

samaritrey

no you run the sync and it will figure it out.

skyking1231

went to the dealer...and it was not $17 for the parts...but $66..grrrrr. And all I need is the one gear (probably a .99 cent part). What a rip-off. Anyhow...ordered it will get it next week. the reason I asked about the orientation of the gears/linkage...is b/c they are 180deg gears (teeth on just the one side). this is for the flap that controls airflow to the different vents.....not the stepper motor that has the $17 arms/linkage. I couldn't take note of what positon the linkage was in before removal...b/c they were already cracked and out of place.

at least this is out backup car...so it is in pieces in the garage until then.

bpc

I did this 2 days ago.When I turned CD player on it says no cd player.Cd player has power to it .I'm 100% sure everything was hooked up corectly.Any suggestions??

samaritrey

fiber connection at cd changer

mleskovar

+1 If you can get the cd changer to spit out the pack then it has power.

bpc

Yes it does,but I did not touch the changer when I did the whole thing.Do you think I have to open everything again and check the cable??

mleskovar

Isn't your changer in the glove box? Just loosen it from there and pull it out enough to check the cable. Are some in the dash? If so, just remove/loosen enough to access the unit through there.

vert

I am trying to sort out a car that I just bought. PO noticed loud popping noise when turning the car on, took it to the dealer, got a 1000 dollar estimate and decided to live with it. I would like to fix this myself though.

The noise is coming from the Passenger side footwell on the left by the left foot. Laid on my back and looked up through a vent hole and saw the vent opening and then snapping shut making that loud popping noise. Looking at the diagram I am assuming the motor or the arm broke on M2/7 - is that right?

I searched this whole thread but did not find the steps for M2/7. Is this something that can be done from under the dash without taking lots of things apart? I see a plate with torx screws covering that area and before I start disassembling things, wanted to see if you guys can make some suggestions? I don't think the DIY posted on the first 3 pages applies to M2/7?

mleskovar

Common symptom and failure of a broken foot well vent actuating linkage that goes from the motor to the vent.


No, you need to go through the whole drill. Follow directions closely and it will go smoothly enough. My suggestion is to replace the driver's side linkage at the same time because they both are weak points and been updated.

vert

OK, so the DIY here is applicable to M2/7 - got it.

There is no way to just disconnect a wire or something to this one motor?

mleskovar

Yes, that will work, but you have to get to the plug that connects to the ribbon wire for that motor and disconnect it. And I don't think it's your M2/7, but your M2/11. Does the popping happen about 6 - 8 times then stop? All of the HVAC stepper motors are attached in parallel with a ribbon cable. Disconnecting any motors from the cable only affects that motor....but will cause the diagnostic test to fail.

vert

Yes, about 6 times then stops. So what's involved in unplugging the wire? I am just trying to see if i can avoid disassembling the dashboard. I can live with one vent not pumping air.

mleskovar

I understand but there's no easy out on this one. If there was, I would have used it instead of taking apart my lower dash 4 times. There are 11 stepper motors in your car controlling HVAC flaps. A single ribbon cable connects to all of them with a plug to the motor. Just unplug it at that motor. But.....if you're going to take it apart to unplug it, which you must, fix it and the driver's side with the improved actuators. Follow the instructions, they are excellent.

vert

I see, yeh if i gotta disassemble the dashboard to unplug the wire then I would rather fix it. Could you tell me what parts I should get to repair the passenger side and the driver (preventative)? I see some saying motors+linkages, some just linkages. I would like to have all the parts before I start this to minimize cars downtime. Also where do you get the parts?

mleskovar

My understanding is you can only get the linkages now in a pack that includes all of them from the dealer. $20? Motors do break but more rare. $90??

vert

I tackled it over the last 2 days (about 10 hours total) and it seems to be fixed. Bought a set with two arms from the dealer for 18 bucks. Opened her up and found a crack in the arm that's on the right - the one that was making the noise. Then started replacing the left one since it came in a kit and as i was pulling it off the motor it cracked in half, so it was going to go any day now. Instructions are spot on and pictures helped a lot. This is NOT easy, and I've done my share of DIYs including a sunroof replacement in a 3 series. Lots of times I was stuck even with all the instructions, but yeh the second time would be easier but i hope to NEVER have to do this again.

I have not seen the pictures of the old and the new parts posted so here they are if you are interested. The new design is basically beefier so hopefully they've done their homework on this one and it will last. You can see the crack in the arm in the second picture. In the third picture the new arm is on top and has a little tab on it for some reason.

mleskovar

So do you wish you paid $700+ to have it done or not... is the real question Now you know what was done, warts and all if any, and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. I can afford to have all my car work done by someone else but prefer to do it myself. I like fixing things.

vert

My friend who sold me this car went to the dealer with this issue and was quoted 1,500 for this job which is why he said he'll just live with it. Trust me, I like DIYing and don't go to the dealer unless I am absolutely stuck, like when I needed thier computer to reset some electronics... Just pointing out this is not for the faint hearted...Thanks for all the help.

02AMG

Is there any way to unplug the M2/8 from under the dash inside the car. I have looked everywhere under there and I can't even locate it? Is it hidden by something? Any help is appreciated.

luca67

Hello,
unfortunately my repair (post #229) was shortlived. After a couple of weeks the passenger side (it's a C320) started clicking again, confirming my fear that the motor was the issue, in this case. In fact when I had replaced the levers, I had noticed that the passenger side was not broken, making me think the motor (M2/11) could be the problem. Since I did not have a spare, I replaced the lever with a new one and hoped for the best.

Anyway, to make it short, I could not stand the clicking again (and the freezing air in the pass. side footwell) and having no time to take everything apart again, yesterday I went head down in the footwell, with a long screwdriver, flashlight and some patience. Removed the bottom cover under teh glove box, activated the reset cycle and forced the flap open inside the duct (used screwdriver and my fingers). Stop the cycle when the flap is stuck open by turning off the ignition (have somebody help you, or blindly search for the key while having your head in the footwell, as I did...). Once it's stuck open, use the flashlight and the long screwdriver to pry the connector off the motor: it is hard to see and reach, but it can be done...
No more clicking and warm air gets to the passanger footwell. Obviously I've lost some of the air mixing features but who cares...

Next spring, if I'm in the mood, I'll replace the motor, together with the passenger door handle, the engine splash guard, fix the rear hatch panel, reset the hand brake for the 50th time, try to adjust again the headlights alignment, etc.
I like my C320 wagon, but these cars need a handyman...

Luca