panzafio

hello everyone, I am new to the site. Just want to say that racin-fool's 17 step stepper motor replacement procedure was life saving. I followed the steps and did the AC resynch procedure after I buttoned everything up. the lights blinked and nothing happened. I have a friend who works as a service writer for toyota and a coworker who worked for MB says that you need clear the codes in the computer. I did not see any broken linkages, but i never took them off before I replace the stepper motor. I cannot change air output to the air nozzles either after i restart the car. It just blows cold air to the feet even If put the temp at 82 F. Anyone have any last ideas before i go and take the whole car apart? Thanks,

mleskovar

There are no codes to clear. For the resynch to "pass" it cycles through all the flaps and then stops. A "fail" never stops, just keeps going. What did you replace when you had it apart and how did you determine what to replace?

panzafio

thanks for the quick reply. Everytime I turned on the car, I heard the annoying clicking for 3~4 minutes. It was underneath the center air nozzles. My freind who works for toyota told me its the stepper motor. I have had the foot well flap one replaced allready at caliber motors in anaheim before and I got #$%^&& for $1,000 3 years ago. so i took an educated guess that it was the middle motor(m2/6??). So thankfully for google it lead to this blog last friday. I spent all day sunday taking the car apart. So I found stepper motor at local parts store for about 89 bucks. I ordered it on friday and got it by Sat. so I basically did an unscrew the 3 torx screws and put on the new BEHR motor and when I reconnected the battery and started the car, the clicking went away. If you help me figure this out I will buy you lunch at Buon Gusto's!

mskembo

The connection behind the control panel is probably connected wrong. I had the same issue when I put my head-unit into my C230. I connected one of the connections, but not the other one. Man were my feet freezing that first day!

panzafio

Mike, thanks for the quick reply. I thought the control panel just had the 8 pin header with the lock arm on it. I guess i need to go an look at the pictures on the pages. I will look for wires missing. thanks, fio

mskembo

Depending on your model, there can also be another three or four pin connector. Mine was pulled up into the dash as we were installing the HU. One look at the back of your control panel will tell you.

samaritrey

+1 There is a flat small 4 pin connector that runs to every motor. So if you left in unplugged the air would not change at all. I actually broke the connector years ago and had to superglue it back together. Thank god it is ok because i am sure replacing it would be a pain luckily the cable is only $50 but still.
Let us know if that was it.

mskembo

Trey, how much superglue is in your car at this point? I mean I guess VA WAS in the Confederacy, but still I'm just playing, no need to Karo me.

samaritrey

Well actually there is some superglue holding on a clip under the hood and then the rear pocket in the back of the front seats I had to use duct tape to make the screw work. it pulled through so i took the panel off and put duct tape on the back side to make a new hold then put the screw through it. good as new.

KARO now = Owned lol

mskembo

I used the new verb in a meeting today... I'm taking this international BABY!

panzafio

thanks for all the tips, i will try to check the connection to the a/c panel. I guess the good thing is that i don't have to rip the whole dash apart to do just that. Thanks!

mskembo

Exactly! Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

mleskovar

You can do the resynch to test it before putting everything back together. It's easier to check for the source of the noise/clicking with everything apart. You can also disconnect one motor without affecting the others (although it won't pass resynch).

panzafio

hey guys, I went back in the center console and ripped out the the radio and the wood bezel. after some digging around I found the cable with the three pin header connector. hey guess what, I connected it, buttoned everything up and did the resync. Everything worked fine and I have cold ac and heat. Thanks for all your great advice. Now, I need to figure out if my Power Steering unit is failing. there is a whining sound at low speeds when I make turns. thanks,again!

Ribo89

Hi all,

I get a ticking sound sometimes not all the time in my car. There is no sound when i start up the car, but as the car moves faster the ticking gets faster and when the car is slowing down the ticking is slowing down too. I can't tell where the sound is coming from, to me it sounds like its coming from the roof, or somewhere in the front. I also get no air in the passenger feet area, all other vents work.
What do you guys think is the issue?

Thanks,
-riBO

Onericali

The whole assembly or the little motor?

Been driving with the guts hanging out for 2 weeks now lol. So busy with school.

Thanks for the help.

mleskovar

The whole assembly that the motor is mounted on.

ND2020

I have a question, does the rear ac vents just pop off? I tried pulling on them a bit and they didn't really budge so I thought I'd ask before I go breaking anything.

panzafio

If you are talking about the ones for the rear passengers, you just unscrew those 10mm bolts from the inside compartment of the center console. You should review the steps to remove it on this thread. Hope this helps.

csaunder

Big thanks to Racin fool and everyone else that chimmed in. I just replaced both linkages (one broke in half, one split) this last weekend. For those about to do this I would point out a couple things.

Step 9 - Once the console is loosened MOVE IT BACK, it will help when taking out/re-installing the moldings under the steering wheel and next to the glove box.

Step 12 - When you remove the side cover there is only one screw you have to remove. It is in the lower left corner. The rest of the screws that are technically in/around there will be removed if you continue to follow the steps (behind light switch, e-brake, etc).

Step 12 - When removing the plastic ring around the ignition switch it unscrews. Don't put the flat tipped screw driver under the switch and try to pop it out. Put one or two small flat tipped screw drivers on the slots within the ring and turn. Lefty loosy, right tighty! Once you start to get it loose you should be able to turn it by hand.

Took me about 6 hours to do the work. If I had to do it again I bet it could be done in 3 or less.

appledore

Hi
I have a CLK 240 - W209 I have the dreaded clicking noise in the dash, the left/right defroster vents will not work. Do I have to remove dash to fix ? I'm in the UK anyone our there want to fix this for me ? Area KENT United Kingdom.
New to this forum thanks for all your help

Ribo89

If I do the HVAC stepper motor resynchronization.
"You'll here the flaps opening and closing and the air will be directed out of different vents during the resynch cycle. After a couple of minutes the lights should go out and the procedure stops if everything is ok. If it just keeps going and going then there's a problem with one or more of the motors or linkages and that could be your problem."

If there is a problem with the stepper motor or the broken linkages will the procedure ever stop lol? How can I stop it?

mleskovar

Remove key.....

Onericali

Unfortunately this seems very difficult. THere are two main 10 mm screws in the front connected to the main bracket, but it doesn't budge after loosening them.

At this point, I'm wondering if just cracking it off to prevent the noise would be a good option, lol.

Thanks for all the help. I'm going to leave all the stuff out for a little while more and see if I can figure any way to make a "mini socket" wrench, or hold a bit with pliers to get in the 1 inch space behind the bracket to get it out.

berutti

hi all,
i have this clicking problem and no A/C (so only heating or not refrigerated air).
i carried the car in for a diagnosis and found
M2/15 ( servo footwell) blocked
M2/21 (servo fresh air) no communication via canbus

by the HVAC-203 pdf you attached previously it seems that the fact that i don't
have refrigerated air is not correlated to these two servos.
any advice? what do you think?

if i remove just the radio (and the center panel) do you think it would be
easy to repair / change the stepper motors or do i have to remove also the two
sides of the center panel?

ps by the way, since all servo have the same part number i guess that you have to
code each one before mounting to set its location?


thanks for the help