Noisy Air Conditioner ?? Stepper Motor Replacement / Clicking & Hissing
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
02 C32
BTW does and one know why is blow cold air when my heater is ON. HERE is my problem, when i have heater ON I try to ajust the AC unit so it can blow hot air to my feet and face, but i feel sometime is only blow cool air to my face and hot air to my feet. I have to picture of the position i ajust below please help.
Last edited by NamC32; Jan 13, 2010 at 05:17 PM.
Guest
Posts: n/a
BTW does and one know why is blow cold air when my heater is ON. HERE is my problem, when i have heater ON I try to ajust the AC unit so it can blow hot air to my feet and face, but i feel sometime is only blow cool air to my face and hot air to my feet. I have to picture of the position i ajust below please help.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Seaford, Delawhere
2002 C240
Thanks for the reply. I havent checked this yet but I thought I'd ask anyways, If i have the blue arrow not visible and the climate control set on both lower and upper vents for heat, will I get heat from both? Or is that dial to shut off the top vents completely? Thanks again.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
02 C32
got it cool thanks. What about the black box on the back of the M2/19&M2/20 flap motor. How do u change it? LKM thanks
Last edited by NamC32; Jan 4, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2003 C230 Coupe
Do you still have any stepper motor linkages?
This is for the steady clicking noise in the 2001-2004 C230, C240, and C320 that comes on when starting the car or if you notice that you are not able to get the a/c to blow on the driver's feet or if it will not turn off when adjusted to do so. It can get stuck in either position.
If someone in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area would like me to do this to their car and wouldn't mind me taking their car apart and taking pictures of this process for the other people here, please contact me.
My disclaimer is as follows:
These are just my own personal instructions from my own personal experience. If you can not follow the instructions or do not under stand them, ask questions. If someone else wants to take pictures and send them to me as they are doing this procedure, I will gladly make this alot clearer to the rest of you. Also, I am not responsible for you tearing your dash up or breaking items during the removal or installation of this procedure. If you want to pay me to do this, I will gladly take some $$ in turn for my time and knowledge.
So anyways, here it goes..
Item needed:
(1) Footwell flap linkage kit with 2 linkage arms (will edit with the part# tomorrow)
*Note - 99% of the time you do NOT need the A/c stepper motor*
Tools you will need:
(1) flashlight of some kind
(1) 10mm socket (6 or 12pt)
(1) 3/8" ratchet
(1) 6-12" 3/8" extension
(1) T35 Torx socket (3/8")
(1) T20 torx screwdriver
(1) plastic wedge
(1) flat tip small pocket screwdriver (my most used tool)
1. Get in the driver's seat and turn off the car and the radio. I usually listen to the radio for a few minutes before removing it during the process.
2. Pop open the ashtray lid and empty the ashtray.
3. Use either the plastic wedge or your fingers to grab ahold of the front of the shifter surround trim and gently pull it up. Unplug the connectors from it and remove the shifter knob with it. (set all of this in the passenger seat so you won't misplace anything).
4. With the ashtray open, grab ahold of the front of the other trim piece around the shifter that goes from the ashtray to the cupholder. Pop this trim piece off and set it aside.
5. Next open the cupholder area and reach down inside it with either the small screwdriver or some small but long hook and remove the rubber insert where you would set a second cup/drink. (Most people seem to use this as a trashcan or coin holder). The easiest way is to pry it loose at the rear and reach down inside with your fingers and just pull the insert out.
6. There is a small tab on the cupholder that you need to pull slightly up on to pop it loose and then it just twists out and can be removed and set aside. After this, you will notice 2 small tabs at the front of this section that can be pried loose and you can fold the front half of the cupholder section back exposing (2) of the (4) 10mm screws/bolts you must remove.
7. Open the center console lower area and empty it. Next, remove the lower cloth section mat at the bottom of this area and it will expose the remaining (2) 10mm bolts you must remove.
*****Notice: if you have the rear A/C option, you will need to remove the covers for it and then unscrew the rear a/c blower using the T20 torx screwdriver. Next unplug it and set it aside and then remove the (2) exposed black 10mm bolts.
8. ****Notice - engage the parking brake for you and your vehicles safety. Now you should see the black tab at the right rear of the shifter base. Press it forward and pull the gear selector back into neutral or drive. If you have not engaged the parking brake, do so NOW. Grab the small flat tip screwdriver and gently pry the two exposed tabs on the ashtray and pull the assembly up and out of the way. Also, don't forget to unplug it and then set it aside.
9. There is a small black plastic hump shaped cover under where the ashtray sat. Use your fingers to pull them off and that will expose the T35 screws. Be very careful in this next step to not damage your interior. Using the T35 socket on your ratchet, set it to loosen and turn the screw approximately 90 degrees. Once you start feeling resistance, then you need to stop because that is far enough. If you continue to try to loosen these screws past this point, you will damage the center console. Using the flashlight again, you can look under the a/c controls and you will see or feel (2) screws. Using the T20 torx screwdriver, you should remove them. This will allow you to pop the center console loose and move it back and out of the way. You will not have it completely out of the way, just enough to maneuver around it.
10. Next, look into the center A/c vents on the dash above all the buttons above the radio. On the left side of those vents, you will see small plastic tabs. Using the small flat tipped screwdriver, GENTLY pry the lower tab on each side and why holding it away from its proper placement, rotate the vent up until it completely stops and exposes a thin open slit under the vent. Repeat for the other center vent. Using the flashlight, look under the vents and at each side you will see a small torx screw. Now using the T20 torx screwdriver, loosen both screws but DO NOT remove them. They should be held into place by the A/c vent assembly. However, if they do come completely out, just try to push them back into place or use a small magnet to remove them. Now pop the center A/c vents back into their normal positions. Again, using the small flat tip screwdriver, now GENTLY pry against the top tab pressing away from the side and rotate the vent completely down again exposing a small slit but not on the top side of the vent. Grab the flashlight again and look into this area. You will notice small tabs/slits on the top of the a/c vent assembly on the inside. Grab the small screwdriver again and GENTLY pry downwards on the small section closest to you and at the same time, start pulling the A/c vent assembly out of the dash. Sometimes you have to pull those tabs a bit further down than you would think. Also, if you have the illuminated thumb wheels for the vents, you will now have to unplug this one, but don't forget about it.
11. Again, grab the flashlight and now look under the remaining section of the wood trim around the Radio/Command. You should be able to see a small metal loop on either side. Use one of the screwdrivers to pop each one down but not completely out. Doing this, should release the remaining section of the wood trim around the radio. Unplug each connector, but again, mark or remember where each connector came from. There should be atleast 3 connectors depending on your options.
12. Grab a short stool or sit down on the drivers door sill plate. Take the T20 torx screwdriver and reach up under the bottom side of the dash on the drivers footwell area. You should be able to feel a total of (4) screws straight across. Remove them. Now pop down the plastic cover but do not remove it. This will expose the remaining (1) screw attached to the bottom of the dash. Remove it. Using the plastic wedge, pry off the side cover to the dash where the drivers door would meet the dash. There will be a few more screws, remove them. Take the gear shifter and place the vehicle back into PARK. Pull the E-brake handle out to release the brakes and you will find another screw under there but above the handle, remove it. There will be a small metal tab on the side of the Light switch, press it in and remove the light switch after unplugging it. This will expose anther (2) screws in the top of this opening. Pulling out the E-brake release handle again, you can pop the cable loose, but PLEASE take care in how this fits on. Now taking the small flat tipped screw driver or the special tool to remove the plastic ring around your Ignition switch, Carefully do so. Again, I take no responsibility for you scratching up your own interior.
13. Back to the radio area. Take the torx screwdriver and remove all remaining screws from around the radio and dash pieces in this opening. If you have followed the directions up to this point, you will have (9) screws remaining. Remove them all. At this point, you will be able to pop the lower dash section under the instrument cluster/steering column area down and out of the way.
14. Now open the glovebox and there will be a small section of dash remaining between the glovebox opening and the large opening where the radio used to be. You should be able to pry up one of the exposed edges by where the radio used to be and sharply but not too strongly, pop this section loose and away from the dash.
15. By doing this, you can now remove the vents on each side of the center console and set them aside. They are long black plastic air tubes. Now taking the flat tipped screwdriver (you may need a slightly larger/longer one), you can pop the two tabs that hold the black cage to the dash support. Remove it and set it aside.
16. Now if you are in a well lit area, you can see the A/c stepper motor now exposed behind the inner dash support/brace on the left side. Picture where the radio was and now look up and left of it and behind the brace. It is held in place with (3) small silver screws and has the broken linkage between it and the main A/c / heater case. Remove the screws and you should be able to maneuver it around and unplug it. Remove it and you will find that the linkage is either cracked where it connects to this stepper motor or will have fallen off already and shown you what was wrong.
17. After reinstalling everything, and getting everything back together, make sure you have no extra screws and that everything is functioning as normal. To normalize the A/c stepper motors, hold down the Recirc and Front windshield buttons for about 10 seconds or until they both start flashing back and forth. When they are done flashing and you have confirmed everything is working, you are done.
I have a few spare linkage arms at my work and really have no use for them. If I remember correctly, the kit for the 2 linkage arms is about $30. If you would like one, how about $8 each shipped inside the USA. I can also do this entire procedure in less than an hour if you need someone to take care of this for you and you live somewhere in the DFW or Houston area in Texas. Contact me if interested in either.
Also, I may have forgotten a few small details so I will continue to re-read this and go over it in my mind to make sure it is all there. If you have done this before or just notice that I missed something, please let me know.
If someone in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area would like me to do this to their car and wouldn't mind me taking their car apart and taking pictures of this process for the other people here, please contact me.
My disclaimer is as follows:
These are just my own personal instructions from my own personal experience. If you can not follow the instructions or do not under stand them, ask questions. If someone else wants to take pictures and send them to me as they are doing this procedure, I will gladly make this alot clearer to the rest of you. Also, I am not responsible for you tearing your dash up or breaking items during the removal or installation of this procedure. If you want to pay me to do this, I will gladly take some $$ in turn for my time and knowledge.
So anyways, here it goes..
Item needed:
(1) Footwell flap linkage kit with 2 linkage arms (will edit with the part# tomorrow)
*Note - 99% of the time you do NOT need the A/c stepper motor*
Tools you will need:
(1) flashlight of some kind
(1) 10mm socket (6 or 12pt)
(1) 3/8" ratchet
(1) 6-12" 3/8" extension
(1) T35 Torx socket (3/8")
(1) T20 torx screwdriver
(1) plastic wedge
(1) flat tip small pocket screwdriver (my most used tool)
1. Get in the driver's seat and turn off the car and the radio. I usually listen to the radio for a few minutes before removing it during the process.
2. Pop open the ashtray lid and empty the ashtray.
3. Use either the plastic wedge or your fingers to grab ahold of the front of the shifter surround trim and gently pull it up. Unplug the connectors from it and remove the shifter knob with it. (set all of this in the passenger seat so you won't misplace anything).
4. With the ashtray open, grab ahold of the front of the other trim piece around the shifter that goes from the ashtray to the cupholder. Pop this trim piece off and set it aside.
5. Next open the cupholder area and reach down inside it with either the small screwdriver or some small but long hook and remove the rubber insert where you would set a second cup/drink. (Most people seem to use this as a trashcan or coin holder). The easiest way is to pry it loose at the rear and reach down inside with your fingers and just pull the insert out.
6. There is a small tab on the cupholder that you need to pull slightly up on to pop it loose and then it just twists out and can be removed and set aside. After this, you will notice 2 small tabs at the front of this section that can be pried loose and you can fold the front half of the cupholder section back exposing (2) of the (4) 10mm screws/bolts you must remove.
7. Open the center console lower area and empty it. Next, remove the lower cloth section mat at the bottom of this area and it will expose the remaining (2) 10mm bolts you must remove.
*****Notice: if you have the rear A/C option, you will need to remove the covers for it and then unscrew the rear a/c blower using the T20 torx screwdriver. Next unplug it and set it aside and then remove the (2) exposed black 10mm bolts.
8. ****Notice - engage the parking brake for you and your vehicles safety. Now you should see the black tab at the right rear of the shifter base. Press it forward and pull the gear selector back into neutral or drive. If you have not engaged the parking brake, do so NOW. Grab the small flat tip screwdriver and gently pry the two exposed tabs on the ashtray and pull the assembly up and out of the way. Also, don't forget to unplug it and then set it aside.
9. There is a small black plastic hump shaped cover under where the ashtray sat. Use your fingers to pull them off and that will expose the T35 screws. Be very careful in this next step to not damage your interior. Using the T35 socket on your ratchet, set it to loosen and turn the screw approximately 90 degrees. Once you start feeling resistance, then you need to stop because that is far enough. If you continue to try to loosen these screws past this point, you will damage the center console. Using the flashlight again, you can look under the a/c controls and you will see or feel (2) screws. Using the T20 torx screwdriver, you should remove them. This will allow you to pop the center console loose and move it back and out of the way. You will not have it completely out of the way, just enough to maneuver around it.
10. Next, look into the center A/c vents on the dash above all the buttons above the radio. On the left side of those vents, you will see small plastic tabs. Using the small flat tipped screwdriver, GENTLY pry the lower tab on each side and why holding it away from its proper placement, rotate the vent up until it completely stops and exposes a thin open slit under the vent. Repeat for the other center vent. Using the flashlight, look under the vents and at each side you will see a small torx screw. Now using the T20 torx screwdriver, loosen both screws but DO NOT remove them. They should be held into place by the A/c vent assembly. However, if they do come completely out, just try to push them back into place or use a small magnet to remove them. Now pop the center A/c vents back into their normal positions. Again, using the small flat tip screwdriver, now GENTLY pry against the top tab pressing away from the side and rotate the vent completely down again exposing a small slit but not on the top side of the vent. Grab the flashlight again and look into this area. You will notice small tabs/slits on the top of the a/c vent assembly on the inside. Grab the small screwdriver again and GENTLY pry downwards on the small section closest to you and at the same time, start pulling the A/c vent assembly out of the dash. Sometimes you have to pull those tabs a bit further down than you would think. Also, if you have the illuminated thumb wheels for the vents, you will now have to unplug this one, but don't forget about it.
11. Again, grab the flashlight and now look under the remaining section of the wood trim around the Radio/Command. You should be able to see a small metal loop on either side. Use one of the screwdrivers to pop each one down but not completely out. Doing this, should release the remaining section of the wood trim around the radio. Unplug each connector, but again, mark or remember where each connector came from. There should be atleast 3 connectors depending on your options.
12. Grab a short stool or sit down on the drivers door sill plate. Take the T20 torx screwdriver and reach up under the bottom side of the dash on the drivers footwell area. You should be able to feel a total of (4) screws straight across. Remove them. Now pop down the plastic cover but do not remove it. This will expose the remaining (1) screw attached to the bottom of the dash. Remove it. Using the plastic wedge, pry off the side cover to the dash where the drivers door would meet the dash. There will be a few more screws, remove them. Take the gear shifter and place the vehicle back into PARK. Pull the E-brake handle out to release the brakes and you will find another screw under there but above the handle, remove it. There will be a small metal tab on the side of the Light switch, press it in and remove the light switch after unplugging it. This will expose anther (2) screws in the top of this opening. Pulling out the E-brake release handle again, you can pop the cable loose, but PLEASE take care in how this fits on. Now taking the small flat tipped screw driver or the special tool to remove the plastic ring around your Ignition switch, Carefully do so. Again, I take no responsibility for you scratching up your own interior.
13. Back to the radio area. Take the torx screwdriver and remove all remaining screws from around the radio and dash pieces in this opening. If you have followed the directions up to this point, you will have (9) screws remaining. Remove them all. At this point, you will be able to pop the lower dash section under the instrument cluster/steering column area down and out of the way.
14. Now open the glovebox and there will be a small section of dash remaining between the glovebox opening and the large opening where the radio used to be. You should be able to pry up one of the exposed edges by where the radio used to be and sharply but not too strongly, pop this section loose and away from the dash.
15. By doing this, you can now remove the vents on each side of the center console and set them aside. They are long black plastic air tubes. Now taking the flat tipped screwdriver (you may need a slightly larger/longer one), you can pop the two tabs that hold the black cage to the dash support. Remove it and set it aside.
16. Now if you are in a well lit area, you can see the A/c stepper motor now exposed behind the inner dash support/brace on the left side. Picture where the radio was and now look up and left of it and behind the brace. It is held in place with (3) small silver screws and has the broken linkage between it and the main A/c / heater case. Remove the screws and you should be able to maneuver it around and unplug it. Remove it and you will find that the linkage is either cracked where it connects to this stepper motor or will have fallen off already and shown you what was wrong.
17. After reinstalling everything, and getting everything back together, make sure you have no extra screws and that everything is functioning as normal. To normalize the A/c stepper motors, hold down the Recirc and Front windshield buttons for about 10 seconds or until they both start flashing back and forth. When they are done flashing and you have confirmed everything is working, you are done.
I have a few spare linkage arms at my work and really have no use for them. If I remember correctly, the kit for the 2 linkage arms is about $30. If you would like one, how about $8 each shipped inside the USA. I can also do this entire procedure in less than an hour if you need someone to take care of this for you and you live somewhere in the DFW or Houston area in Texas. Contact me if interested in either.
Also, I may have forgotten a few small details so I will continue to re-read this and go over it in my mind to make sure it is all there. If you have done this before or just notice that I missed something, please let me know.
If you still have any linkages, I would be interested in buying them.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,152
Likes: 60
From: NJ, NYC
Something Slow
ok took apart my Dash today to replace Stepper Motor & Linkage M2/19 because it was Ticking like a bomb! boy what a work out!! well everything was ok up untill i remove The Stepper Motor and found that it Doesnt have a Regular Linkage like all the rest of motors. i was pissed! so rushed to the Dealer to find this little plastic Gear thing-e! came to find out they dont sell it alone so i had to buy an Enitre Package of all different types of plastic thing-es thats makes the HVAC system works Crap cost $87 and only needed one piece of Plastic from the bunch aint that some $hi*.. anyways here are the picture.. and everything works Great!!
Pastic Gear Thing-e for Stepper motor M2/19
Stepper Motor M2/19 With the Purple Connector! the one with the Green Connector Also has the Same Plastic Gear Thing-e!
Located Right Behind Your Headunit!
So Anyone who is Replace those Stepper motor Be Carefull! Good Luck!
Enjoy!
Pastic Gear Thing-e for Stepper motor M2/19
Stepper Motor M2/19 With the Purple Connector! the one with the Green Connector Also has the Same Plastic Gear Thing-e!
Located Right Behind Your Headunit!
So Anyone who is Replace those Stepper motor Be Carefull! Good Luck!
Enjoy!
this Is the Part numbers For the Bag Of Thingies :-) A203-830-00-32
Also See attached PDF Item 110 yep everything comes in the PACKAGE!
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2004 C240
similar problem
My problem sounds similar. Except the noise behind my dashboard sounds like an air door/flapper cycling to divert the air to the windhield and footwells. It cycles between 5 and 8 times and then stops. Do you think this is still a linkage problem? Thanks!
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,851
Likes: 196
From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
'17 Jaguar XF
Yes, classic linkage symptoms for foot well flap.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 352
Likes: 12
From: Worcester, MA
15' CLS400
Yep.. Definitely! Turn the fan up, then play with the direction knob. Aim at the floor and check for blowing air on both sides, then aim at defog and check, etc. You'll find one where the flap didn't open.
I'd like to also note the stepper motors for the floor and passenger side of the car are not too bad to DIY, however if it's one for the driver side defog or vent it might be better to take it in. Those two are take twice as long to get to.
I'd like to also note the stepper motors for the floor and passenger side of the car are not too bad to DIY, however if it's one for the driver side defog or vent it might be better to take it in. Those two are take twice as long to get to.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: dallas, texas, usa
camelia123
Thanks for taking the time to discuss this, I feel strongly about it and love reading more on this topic. If possible, as you gain knowledge, would you mind updating your post with extra information? It is extremely useful for me.Thanks in advance
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 456
Likes: 4
From: Canada
2003 c240 4matic wagon
03 c240 4matic wagon non digital temp controls
blows air at feet (both sides) in every setting when i set it to actually blow on feet it blows harder so it seems to be opening but not closeing all the way any idea what motor/flap it may be?
it wont re-sync I tried it this moring and it cycled for 5 mins but never stopped
blows air at feet (both sides) in every setting when i set it to actually blow on feet it blows harder so it seems to be opening but not closeing all the way any idea what motor/flap it may be?
it wont re-sync I tried it this moring and it cycled for 5 mins but never stopped
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 5,295
Likes: 22
From: VA
THE C350
03 c240 4matic wagon non digital temp controls
blows air at feet (both sides) in every setting when i set it to actually blow on feet it blows harder so it seems to be opening but not closeing all the way any idea what motor/flap it may be?
it wont re-sync I tried it this moring and it cycled for 5 mins but never stopped
blows air at feet (both sides) in every setting when i set it to actually blow on feet it blows harder so it seems to be opening but not closeing all the way any idea what motor/flap it may be?
it wont re-sync I tried it this moring and it cycled for 5 mins but never stopped
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
C320
I have taken M219 out since it is clicking all the time. I was wondering if it is only supposed to be turning that one gear. Also, how can I identify if the motor is actually broken or if there is just something else going on.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,851
Likes: 196
From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
'17 Jaguar XF
Gear? You mean actuator? If it's a loud snapping noise that is either constant or intermittent it's the internal clutch in the motor that' you're hearing and the motor needs replacement. If it's a clicking noise that happens when you first turn on the car, and continues for about 6 - 10 clicks then stops it's the actuator arm that fits on the motor shaft. If you removed the motor you should be able to check out the actuator. They usually crack where they fit on the motor shaft and the clicking sound is the motor slipping inside the actuator arm.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
C320
Actuator
I guess that is what I mean. It is a little white plastic round thing with teeth around about 1/3 of its circumference. It fits onto the little black motor. It had a small crack in it so I put a new one on it and it is now cracked too. It seems like the little motor is trying to travel too far everytime. Mine only clicks for about 30 seconds but it is quite loud. I am trying to determine if I need to replace the motor or not.
How important is this thing anyway? I am thinking of just leaving it disconnected alltogether.
How important is this thing anyway? I am thinking of just leaving it disconnected alltogether.
Last edited by owp3; Mar 20, 2010 at 02:02 PM. Reason: It clicks loudly for a lot more than 6-10 times also. It is actually more like 50-60 times.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2002 C320
Did it end up being a bad motor which caused the cracked gear or was the solution just to fit a new gear? I don't want to order the bag-o-parts and just have it crack again. I did swap over actuator M2/10 (which was working ok) with a zip-tied gear just to see if it would work, but it continued to slip.
Cheers,
Matt
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
C180 kompressor
Hey guys, gonna have a go at this soon, same problem. Fair play to the the 2 boys who posted the pictures and the instructions. I was wondering does anyone know how to get at the motor that seems to be behind my dash clocks?? I can get at the ones behind my cd player.
Thanks very much!!
Thanks very much!!
Newbie
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
C320
Thank you to Racin fool on the detail instruction on how to fix the Stepper motor clicking noice. My C320 already had this fixed once by the dealer and it is clicking again so I decided to tackle this myself this time. I have the rear A/C option you mentioned on Step 7 but I can't figure out how to remove the front cover for it and there is nothing I can see inside the center console to do this. I hate to try to pry it off by force and break a latch or something. Can you provide some more details on how take the rear A/C blower out?
Newbie
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
C320
I finally got the cover off the rear A/C off. It is inside the center console. There are two small slots on the left and right front side of the top cover. I had to stick a small flat screw driver in there to release the latch. Now I can move onto the bigger task of dismantling the rest of the dash.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 8
From: Pasadena, CA
2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Hey guys, I'm putting this here. I have a 2002 C230 Coupe with non digital climate control. I had the console off and went to reinstall the controls for the A/C. I did the resynch, but the lights just kept flashing until I turned the car off some 45 minutes later. Right now air only comes out the bottom.
Wavey Kat, you still have that bag of parts? While my dash is somewhat apart I'm thinking of doing the A/C motors that are not working.
Ed
Wavey Kat, you still have that bag of parts? While my dash is somewhat apart I'm thinking of doing the A/C motors that are not working.
Ed
Junior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu
2004 CLK500 COUPE/AUTO
Anyone know where we can buy this kit online?!
***********************************
I've read lots of posts about the actuator arm, yet
I found no posts about where I can purchase the actuator
arm kits on the internet?
If someone could kindly post the links, I'd be happy to post
a DIY photos for a 2004 CLK 500
Much thanks
I've read lots of posts about the actuator arm, yet
I found no posts about where I can purchase the actuator
arm kits on the internet?
If someone could kindly post the links, I'd be happy to post
a DIY photos for a 2004 CLK 500
Much thanks
