C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Noisy Air Conditioner ?? Stepper Motor Replacement / Clicking & Hissing

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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 11:50 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by tarokyama
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I've read lots of posts about the actuator arm, yet
I found no posts about where I can purchase the actuator
arm kits on the internet?....
I don't believe they are available on the internet. AFAIK they're only available from dealers in a bag with all the links and not sold separately.
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Old Jul 4, 2010 | 02:06 PM
  #177  
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its cheaper at the dealers. i just paid 17 dollars at the dealership. I found them online for 14 but shipping was 7 dollars.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 04:22 AM
  #178  
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Annoying ticking noise from my C V8 dash.

Originally Posted by Racin_fool
The ticking noise is pretty common in the W203 cars.. its from a broken stepper motor linkage between the stepper motor and the left footwell flap. There is a short white linkage in there that breaks since it was poorly designed to begin with. I can easily tell you how to do it if you need help. Takes me about 45 minutes to get them done and thats taking my time. Should take the average guy about 2 hours if you don't know what you are doing, maybe less..

Also, the loud hissing noise is from the A/c expansion valve. Basically it means your a/c system is low on refrigerant since you have a leak somewhere. My guess is that it's leaking somewhere around the Drier or around the A/c compressor itself.
Hi, I think this is spot on, can you guide me on how to get to the linkage without having to dismantle the whole dash?

Thanks!
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 12:25 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by Razman
[COLOR="Black"]... can you guide me on how to get to the linkage without having to dismantle the whole dash?...
No. There are no shortcuts, the parts are buried.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #180  
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2006-C230
I have a 2006 and the air conditioner is ALWAYS nosey…I was told by the dealership that is the #1 complaint about the C Class….
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 06:50 PM
  #181  
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I just noticed I have this same issue today. My 2005 does this. Its sqeeky sound like it needs to be oiled or something? No matter what speed its on it does it. And also when on full blast the fan blows less and then speeds up again and it does this every like 5 seconds or so.
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 02:49 AM
  #182  
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C230K
stuck on step 6

This thread is great. Thanks to call for contributing.

However, I'm stuck on step 6. I have a 2003 coupe. I've got the pop-up cupholder piece out. However, I can't release the two tabs to fold over the piece with the cigarette lighter. It seems to still be attached somewhere on the center. What am I missing? I am able to release the tabs and the center between the tabs won't move.

Thanks for your help.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 08:23 PM
  #183  
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2003 w203
Got the noise stopped, but now chasing a side-effect

THIS IS A GREAT THREAD!! It didn't take much interpreting at all.

All went well until the re-assemble. On the row of buttons above the radio, I have ABS, Lock/Unlock, up/down for rear window shade, the rear headrest button, and the anti-tow thing for the alarm.

The ABS and lock/unlock work reliably.
The rear headrest button worked only once during test.
The shade works up reliably, down is wied. It moves just a few inches, then stops. Subsequent button pushes provide a clicking noise near the shade, but no movement. Again it can always return to up position using the up button.
The anti-tow button worked once, but not again.

Strange. Not sure how to look at this. I re-seated the connector a couple of times, no change. Thinking.............

Any thoughts form the group?? Any type of software reset?? (I did do the recalibrate procedure in the write-up and the newly fixed motor operated properly.

Oh, and my problem was the 2/11 stepper that controls the RIGHT heat to the feet and the motor had a stripped gear, not a broken linkage.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 10:54 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by james90755
...The rear headrest button worked only once during test....
Sorry, have to ask....did you manually raise the headrests before retesting?

Originally Posted by james90755
...The shade works up reliably, down is wied. It moves just a few inches, then stops. Subsequent button pushes provide a clicking noise near the shade, but no movement. Again it can always return to up position using the up button....
The problem is with the shade mechanism....common. I've read where dismantling and cleaning/re greasing fixes the problem.


Originally Posted by james90755
... The anti-tow button worked once, but not again. ...Any thoughts form the group?? ....
Maybe you returned two leads to the wrong plug ins....headrest and tow?
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 11:21 PM
  #185  
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2003 w203
Originally Posted by mleskovar
Sorry, have to ask....did you manually raise the headrests before retesting?



The problem is with the shade mechanism....common. I've read where dismantling and cleaning/re greasing fixes the problem.




Maybe you returned two leads to the wrong plug ins....headrest and tow?
No problem. I tilted the headrest form the horizontal position to the vertical position, but I did not increase the height of the headrest.

I'll give you the shade mechanism. I have NEVER used it.

Doubtful the leads are mismatched. They are all on one connector and it is keyed. Hard to screw that up.

I let it sit for four hours and just went back to test again.

Headrest works maybe 1 out of 10 times. Shade=same problem. The tow button is interesting. For a one second button depress, I get nothing. If I hold the button 5+ seconds, when I let go I get the LED in the switch ON for a few seconds, then off again. The correct behavior is a toggle each time the button is depressed.

Thanks for putting some thought into this with me. The hard part went easy, the easy part is being a pain.

One other thing, when it was all in pieces, I did turn on the ignition to test my stepper replacement. I did get supplemental restraint system service required message on the dash too... but this went away once I had it all back together again. I am guessing some of what I disconnected uses a comm bus to communicate. this error has not been seen since I reassmbled everything.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 12:30 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by james90755
....Doubtful the leads are mismatched. They are all on one connector and it is keyed. ....
My year is different, one large and two alike female connector/leads with three possible males if I remember correctly.


Originally Posted by james90755
...Headrest works maybe 1 out of 10 times. Shade=same problem. The tow button is interesting. For a one second button depress, I get nothing. If I hold the button 5+ seconds, when I let go I get the LED in the switch ON for a few seconds, then off again. The correct behavior is a toggle each time the button is depressed. .... I am guessing some of what I disconnected uses a comm bus to communicate. this error has not been seen since I reassmbled everything.
Sounds like a SAM is fried. Yes they are on a common buss.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 01:33 AM
  #187  
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If I remember, the buttons are all controlled by a single 9 wire harness. When I started I pulled the harness then went to mark it. I had an oh ***** moment when I saw two female receptacles right next to each other that looked the same. Upon extended observation, I realized that they are keyed differently, though visually they looked highly similar. Go figure.

I guess I can go test continuity of each lead in the morning, but I wonder if that is a waste of time.

I will have to read up on what a SAM is. Is this CAN (controller area network) bus by chance. I understand the concept since I have used this professionally (electronics manufacturing). I haven't a clue how to troubleshoot it though.

Lucky for me I have a spare set of wheels!!
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 11:42 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by james90755
... Is this CAN (controller area network) bus by chance. ...
Yes. Not uncommon for them to fail. They seem to be highly susceptible to spikes and battery changes often trigger a failure if not done correctly (remove ground first, replace last).
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 12:12 PM
  #189  
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2003 w203
Any suggestions on troubleshooting? Do these types of events throw troubles codes that can be downloaded?

I am heading down to continue the saga...
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 12:32 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by james90755
Any suggestions on troubleshooting? Do these types of events throw troubles codes that can be downloaded?

I am heading down to continue the saga...
I'm sure the MB diagnostic system would find it but I haven't seen any troubleshooting methods on this site other than symptom based educated guesses. Spend some time searching this forum and you may find something similar.
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Old Sep 19, 2010 | 02:35 PM
  #191  
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UPDATE:

Sunshade: Sticks. When helped, the motor can close it.
ABS=Works reliably
Lock/unlock=Works reliably
Headrest=Works sometimes, 50/50 chance it will operate as expected. I am guessing this is NOT dash teardown related. (like the sunshade)
Tow switch=Not sure, will have to read up on this.

$145 for the stepper motor replacement. I got 10% after telling the parts guy I was going to go home and look for a coupon I thought I had (knowing I probably did not). I do this on service as well and typically get 15% off. Try it sometime, it works.

Thanks for all your suggestions mleskovar. Its nice to have an extra set of brains looking at things. I am happy to return the favor to the forum.


James
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 12:23 AM
  #192  
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Excellent thread and step-by-step DIY. My CLK320 has just started making this annoying popping loud noise randomly upon starting the car. The noise seems to come from different locations, my guess is that there could be more than one stepper motor has gone bad. BTW, you can get these little stepper/vent flap motors online from www.autohausaz.com for $64 ea with free ground shipping.
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 03:45 PM
  #193  
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SORTED!!!

Man I was putting it off for Months and just decided to get stuck in today. This Thread helped an awful lot, was my motor that was broke the linkage was fine. I bought 2 motors and only needed 1 so have one if anyone wants it, was €120 but I'd be happy if I got half that for it. I'm in Ireland so if anyone comes across this thread and wants me to do their repair PM me.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:01 AM
  #194  
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I have fixed the stepper motor problem alright, but now SRS warning sign is on all the time, and I get a message on screen that I should visit the workshop. Any ideas on what might have gone wrong?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:11 AM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Wharton
I have fixed the stepper motor problem alright, but now SRS warning sign is on all the time, and I get a message on screen that I should visit the workshop. Any ideas on what might have gone wrong?
That symptom can be caused by one of the cable/plug connections to the switch block above the radio.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:15 AM
  #196  
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That means I have to visit someone with a MB STAR system to find out for sure, right?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:22 AM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by Wharton
That means I have to visit someone with a MB STAR system to find out for sure, right?
You should have removed those plugs when replacing the stepper motor(s)....did you check to see if you connected it properly upon reassembly? If the answer is yes then you need STAR.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:44 AM
  #198  
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Yes, I did remove all the cables from the panel above radio, but then to test the motors before I assembled the console, I plugged the AC control cables -- those are below the radio--, and not the one above the radio: there is only one in my car, although there are sockets for three.

And yes, I connected the cable back to the panel in the end, but the message does not go away.

Is there a way to reset the system?
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:51 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Wharton
Yes, I did remove all the cables from the panel above radio, but then to test the motors before I assembled the console, I plugged the AC control cables -- those are below the radio--, and not the one above the radio: there is only one in my car, although there are sockets for three.

And yes, I connected the cable back to the panel in the end, but the message does not go away.

Is there a way to reset the system?
The only way to reset the system is to correct the problem (in some cases) or use STAR. Someone recently got the same error as you and fixed it by properly seating the plug to the switches. My car has three plugs to that switch block.
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:58 AM
  #200  
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Thanks for the advice. I will post updates once I am through the "experience".
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