W203 window / trunk control unit
Part
a 203 821 06 79 9116
I didn't find it in the forum thought I would post it.. To install it, you basically do the same as the grab handle install, except on the drivers side. And then do something with the unit..
Anyone installed this? I haven't yet...Can you post some help or a DIY??
THANKS
Part
a 203 821 06 79 9116
I didn't find it in the forum thought I would post it.. To install it, you basically do the same as the grab handle install, except on the drivers side. And then do something with the unit..
Anyone installed this? I haven't yet...Can you post some help or a DIY??
THANKS
When I disconnect the old unit, do I have to worry about setting off a dummy light with the computer?
When I disconnect the old unit, do I have to worry about setting off a dummy light with the computer?
As for how the replacement would go, I'm not entirely sure about that.
There are a few people who have taken the door assembly apart before, so hopefully they'll see this thread and chime in.
Trending Topics
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Now I know a custom shop that doesn't back up their work.
Get the door loose, get under the car and look up into the door. YOu will see a white bracket, push towards the tweeter on that white piece, to unlock the unit from the bracket. The unit is plugged in up near where the door open handle is, but behind the foam in the door itself, not just in the door panel. Unplug, and switch them out. You might need a extension mirror to see wher eits plugged in, if not look at it from the dashboard towards the left side of the door, its a blue plug but you have to remove some thin foam to get to it. Its there, just look.
Refasten all of your torx, replace the door hinge cover, tighten the grab handle bolts, and replace the srs badge and tweeter housing.
Done!
Sorry no pics its pretty easy so i think you can handle it
For those that are new to working with the door panel, I'll provide my step-by-step:
- Unscrew your lock post (Sirene called it a pin). You might also know this as the lock knob, ie. the golf-tee-shaped thingit that locks and unlocks your door manually.

- Pop the tweeter off the door. I started at the far right corner and worked it loose with a small screwdriver. Be gentle and you will be rewarded with a plastic "snap" that tells you that part of the housing as sprung free of one of the retaining brackets. (Or that you've busted your housing!
Did I mention be gentle?) - GENTLY pry the front part of the plastic housing off your grab handle. This is where a proper tool would have probably saved me some small marks on the plastic, but if you go slowly and GENTLY! you should be able to pry the front off the grab-part of the handle, exposing the 2 bolts that need to be removed.
- Use your Torx driver to remove the 2 bolts and put them somewhere safe (NO, not on the floor!
) - Using your fingernails (or something stiff like a plastic putty knife) pry the oval-shaped SRS badge off. It won't come completely off, as the clever MB engineers were probably tired of losing the damn thing on their prototypes, so they put a little retaining strap on it. Remove the torx bolt concealed within.
- Just to the left of that, look for a smaller, silver torx bolt holding a small plastic cover over the door latch. (Sirene called this the "hinge cover plate", and I spent like 10 minutes looking on the hinge-side of the door before I figured out that one.
) Unscrew that bolt and pull the plastic cover off the door. - Using something thin but strong, GENTLY pry the panel away from the door on the left, bottom and right sides. The object is to get the panel to pop loose from 5-6 retaining clips. These things look like white bolts that insert into round holes on the door frame. You'll know you've got it, when the entire panel swings free at the bottom.
- Get down underneath the door, and look up at the panel-side of the door. The unit you are wanting to replace will be underneath a rubbery black covering that is glued to the panel with some black, tar-like stuff. If you are careful, you should be able to pull that back without damaging the adhesive, exposing the part. Slide the white bracket up, freeing the unit from the retaining frame.
- Follow the wires from the unit to the doorframe side, where it will be plugged into a clip. There is a small, plastic nubbin that you will need to push in towards the wires that will release the plug from the housing. Look at your replacement part to get an idea of what you need to press, as it will be hard to see from your angle.
- Once the wire harness is unplugged, you should be able to pull the entire part down towards you, wiggling it free of the retaining bracket.
- Put your new part in place, plug in the wires, and TEST TO MAKE SURE IT WORKS! Don't you hate it when you get the whole thing back together and it doesn't work because you didn't QUITE seat the wire harness all the way?

- Assuming all is well, reverse the above to reassemble your door panel.
I followed your instructions to the letter and 25 minutes later (while taking my time) I had the new Master Switch installed and working.
This post saved me lots of $$$.
Great job!







