sirenebekim

Here's the part number to replace the window control unit, on the driver's side door. It includes the trunk release as well.

Part

a 203 821 06 79 9116


I didn't find it in the forum thought I would post it.. To install it, you basically do the same as the grab handle install, except on the drivers side. And then do something with the unit..

Anyone installed this? I haven't yet...Can you post some help or a DIY??

THANKS

sirenebekim

bump

any info?

drexappeal

Does the trunk release not come on every model? I thought that was standard.

sirenebekim

the trunk release and the window control are in the same unit. My auto window down button broke, but it had 97k.. And it was the drivers window button as well... Probably the mostly used button.

When I disconnect the old unit, do I have to worry about setting off a dummy light with the computer?

drexappeal

Oh, I see. I'm aware that the trunk release is on that unit, but when you said "it includes the trunk release as well" I thought you meant that you didn't have it before.

As for how the replacement would go, I'm not entirely sure about that.

sirenebekim

haha its ok i wasn't sure what to call it, so I described it as best as I could. By the way, your engine is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

drexappeal

Thanks, thanks. Eventually, I'll do the engine dressing too, but right now I'm happy with how it feels (and by this weekend, how it sounds too)!

There are a few people who have taken the door assembly apart before, so hopefully they'll see this thread and chime in.

sirenebekim

im going to install it tomorrow, i will post some pics and maybe do a DIY... i would guess this is a common ailment

SUNILP

no errors will come up. you'll have to resync the windows.

sirenebekim

great! i was guessing i would have to do that.. when I got my custom roof installed, they disconnected the sunroof switch.. Then when they went to plug it back it, it didn't automatically close itself with the auto button.. He asked me if it was automatic and I said yes, and then I asked him if he disconnected the switch.. He said yes, and I said it needed to be resynced... He started to say "well we aren't responsible" I said hold it, watch this....

Now I know a custom shop that doesn't back up their work.

sirenebekim

i installed it, you dont have to remove the door panel, just get the clips on the bottom and right side of the door to come loose, undo the two handle bolts, the bolt under the SRS badge, and take off the tweeter housing and unscrew the lock pin. Take off the door hinge cover plate, located on the door in the middle on the left side, one torx.

Get the door loose, get under the car and look up into the door. YOu will see a white bracket, push towards the tweeter on that white piece, to unlock the unit from the bracket. The unit is plugged in up near where the door open handle is, but behind the foam in the door itself, not just in the door panel. Unplug, and switch them out. You might need a extension mirror to see wher eits plugged in, if not look at it from the dashboard towards the left side of the door, its a blue plug but you have to remove some thin foam to get to it. Its there, just look.


Refasten all of your torx, replace the door hinge cover, tighten the grab handle bolts, and replace the srs badge and tweeter housing.

Done!

Sorry no pics its pretty easy so i think you can handle it

modctek

I spent a couple dozen minutes poking around my door trying to figure out how to start on this, based on the above instructions, as I've not really done much work on my car, but I was damned if I was going to let the stealership squeeze my wallet anymore than I had to.

For those that are new to working with the door panel, I'll provide my step-by-step:

1. Unscrew your lock post (Sirene called it a pin). You might also know this as the lock knob, ie. the golf-tee-shaped thingit that locks and unlocks your door manually.
2. Pop the tweeter off the door. I started at the far right corner and worked it loose with a small screwdriver. Be gentle and you will be rewarded with a plastic "snap" that tells you that part of the housing as sprung free of one of the retaining brackets. (Or that you've busted your housing! Did I mention be gentle?)
3. GENTLY pry the front part of the plastic housing off your grab handle. This is where a proper tool would have probably saved me some small marks on the plastic, but if you go slowly and GENTLY! you should be able to pry the front off the grab-part of the handle, exposing the 2 bolts that need to be removed.
4. Use your Torx driver to remove the 2 bolts and put them somewhere safe (NO, not on the floor! )
5. Using your fingernails (or something stiff like a plastic putty knife) pry the oval-shaped SRS badge off. It won't come completely off, as the clever MB engineers were probably tired of losing the damn thing on their prototypes, so they put a little retaining strap on it. Remove the torx bolt concealed within.
6. Just to the left of that, look for a smaller, silver torx bolt holding a small plastic cover over the door latch. (Sirene called this the "hinge cover plate", and I spent like 10 minutes looking on the hinge-side of the door before I figured out that one. ) Unscrew that bolt and pull the plastic cover off the door.
7. Using something thin but strong, GENTLY pry the panel away from the door on the left, bottom and right sides. The object is to get the panel to pop loose from 5-6 retaining clips. These things look like white bolts that insert into round holes on the door frame. You'll know you've got it, when the entire panel swings free at the bottom.
8. Get down underneath the door, and look up at the panel-side of the door. The unit you are wanting to replace will be underneath a rubbery black covering that is glued to the panel with some black, tar-like stuff. If you are careful, you should be able to pull that back without damaging the adhesive, exposing the part. Slide the white bracket up, freeing the unit from the retaining frame.
9. Follow the wires from the unit to the doorframe side, where it will be plugged into a clip. There is a small, plastic nubbin that you will need to push in towards the wires that will release the plug from the housing. Look at your replacement part to get an idea of what you need to press, as it will be hard to see from your angle.
10. Once the wire harness is unplugged, you should be able to pull the entire part down towards you, wiggling it free of the retaining bracket.
11. Put your new part in place, plug in the wires, and TEST TO MAKE SURE IT WORKS! Don't you hate it when you get the whole thing back together and it doesn't work because you didn't QUITE seat the wire harness all the way?
12. Assuming all is well, reverse the above to reassemble your door panel.

Hope this helps!

WhirlPool

Thanks modctek!

I followed your instructions to the letter and 25 minutes later (while taking my time) I had the new Master Switch installed and working.

This post saved me lots of $$$.
Great job!

modctek

Glad it was helpful!