FrankW

you couldn't post this in your original thread because??

either way, sounds more like whoever did your headlight install screwed something up.

drexappeal

if you have updates on a subject matter that you ALREADY started a thread for, please just reply in your own thread. Just merged 3 threads you started and I'm about to merge your "lowering" threads.

Moviela

Uhoh, both SAM's failed? Usually it is just the rear that fries when a ham handed tech installs a new battery. The processors in the SAM's are sensitive to overvoltage. Just a little sparking when installing a new battery can cause a flyback voltage spike that destroys the SAM's. Usual procedure is to install a quiescent current device to keep alive the memories, and to serve as a sink for flyback pulses when installing a battery. If you don't have such a device, you need to disconnect the SAM, then replace the battery, then reconnect the SAM. Problem then is that your memories are not set, and you need to sync the windows, sunroof, & ect. You might also need a connection to the Star Diagnostic computer to get everything reset.

Bottom line is....call roadside for any problem where the battery might be at fault. It will be cheaper than in the service drive at the dealer.

A SAM that was working when you pulled in, and then stops working while they were working on the battery and regulator is suspect. I would ask them to cover the parts beyond the battery. If needed ask MB of Canada to perform a comprehensive failure analysis on the bad parts. If the failure was overvoltage, you have your proof the shop failed work by the book.

SUNILP

With the many dealerships I have visited, I have never seen someone use such a device when replacing batteries although it is listed in the workshop manual hundreds of times and IS the correct method of replacing a battery. I am pretty sure it was your dealerships fault the rear SAM fried but having them take blame for it will be difficult.

sosh

I would not be so certain that the dealer caused this problem with the battery change. I think its more likely that the people that installed your headlights did so. Did they disconnect the battery when installing the headlights?? Did they short a couple of wires?? Did they jump the car to start it?? They are most likely untrained on MB's and have less competent help when it comes to electrical stuff. It could also be the headlights themselves. Well, either way you are going to have a tough time proving who did what. I guess you can just figure that you now have very expensive headlights. Was it all worth it?? Thats the risk you take with many mods. Good luck!!

alymo

the people who istalled my headlights are the authorized MB collision shop and the car ran for 3 days fine without any problems whatsoever. all hell broke loose after the dealer installed the battery...(before it left the dealers repair shop). it was richmond mercedes BTW for those who asked..i think i got wenough info now to go nd " talk "to them tomorrow we'll see what happens...i'll keep you guys updated wish me luck and let me know if you have any advice

sosh

May be an authorized collision shop but that does not mean they are qualified to do electrical mods. I personally think that you will have a difficult time proving that either caused the problem if not being even impossible. In addition they can also blame it on your headlight mod. Good luck!!

SUNILP

when you say 07 headlights, do you mean the clears or xenons? Either way, there is no electrical modification required on either set. They are plug and play unless you got an aftermarket set where the connector did not fit properly and pins touching may have shorted out something.

raklert

wow so sorry about what happen. This is really frustrting i know, and the SAM unit aint cheap either. What I think is the headlight install got nothing to do with your undervoltage. They gotta be an idiot to screw up the install and even so the light probably wont work in the first place. The SAM was working fine before you get to the dealer and thus you should be expecting the SAM to work just fine when its at the dealer. I will try to give them hell about it and at least make them give good deal on new SAM if not replaceing them for free.

alymo

ok i went to the collision shop this morning and told them what happened ..they took my car in and hooked it up to the DAS and told me that all the errors are linked to the rear SAM. so i went to the richmond benz and i pretty much spoon fed to them what was wrong with my car and the fact that the tech fried the rear sam while installing the battery (thanks moviela and sunman) they redid the test confirmed the error and replaced therear SAM at no cost to me... ..thaks a lot guys for all you help..and sorry drex for posting several posts i was panicing and no one was responding to my post so i tried posing it in another discussion.

drexappeal

Nah, it's no problem. I understand. With technical questions like these, I'd say the majority of people couldn't answer them. In fact, I couldn't even answer the issue you were having.

Usually for stuff like this, I pm people that I notice have a background/experience with Star Diagnose and/or Benz's. Since you are new, I know that would be more difficult for you to do in a pinch, but as you get more and more familiar with the people who know certain aspects of the car, you'll know who you can pm and get quick information (in situations like this).

Glad you got it resolved!

alymo

thanks man...and thanks again for all your help everyone

trisonics

*Bump*

I got the same "UNDERVOLTAGE CONSUMER CHECKLEVEL" error today while driving to work. It last appeared yesterday night when my brother was driving and I didn't see that when I started the car. The battery on the car was replaced few months back and the only repairs I had done after the battery replacement was new front brakes and alignment.
I have to drive 25 miles to get to home, do you think it is safe or will the car die down on freeway?

SeaCoupe

The problem with the undervoltage on the car is that when you least expect it, the car will drop its power output, leave enough to use power steering, and brakes, and get you off the road.

If you MUST drive the car, turn off ALL accessories, and drive on the freeway to get home.

25 miles is a long way. Do you really want to risk it, instead of just going to the dealer?

Since your battery was replaced it is likely in your alternator.

E

romz

you are still good in my opinion because i had the same problem. I changed the battery at pepboys they gave me the wrong voltage and it read the same voltage consumer default I was taking over the car and did not think much of it. The day the car was handed to me another warning sign came up that said something like alternator/battery defective visit workshop. I got out of work early to get it back to pepboys for them to take a look at it and the car died on the high way. A week later and $1800 the car is good as new. The alternator, battery, and because of the stupid tow truck driver jump started the car it killed the rear SAM, were replaced. So I suggest take it to the dealer pay the 100 for the diagnostic but be on the safe side. Learn from my misfortune.

trisonics

I had a suspicion that there is something wrong with the alternator as I can hear a humm from the engine bay when the key is in position 1 or 2.
Anyway, my car is out of warranty now, so is going to a mechanic a better option than going to a dealer? I bought this car just last month for less than BB value and now I have already spent 1000 bucks fixing it. My good deal is quickly turning into a very expensive mistake

SeaCoupe

I feel for you bro. To my memory, in order to get out the alternator, you are going to have to pull the S/C. Yep, sounds ridiculous, but the alt on your M111 engine is buried underneath a s/c mounting bracket.

The work is easy, just a bit much for replacing the alternator.

Hey, rent a car, take it out, and find out what part is messed up, the alt, or the regulator.

The dealer will charge you $1,300 for the fix. Or you could do it yourself for the cost of the alternator, and the gaskets you'll need from removing the S/C.

Let me know if you need input on doing the work. Not hard at all, just labor intensive.

E

trisonics

Sigh.... $1300 at dealer? I will keep that figure in mind when I get a quote from dealer later today.
As for DIY, the only repair I ever did on a car was to change the flat tyre. I do not have any tools either. Thanks for the offer though.

trisonics

Question: What are the problems that could arise after changing the Alternator at a mechanic and not dealer? The mechanic is not a MB specialist but knows quite a bit about MB's. Still worst case scenario, what could go wrong?

GrandPrix

F#$%ing scary. Just changing a battery can cause all this crap to snowball into the 1000s of dollars? Removing a super-charger to get to the alternator is engineering stupidity. I love German ingenuity but this crap is taken to an extreme. Does anyone know if the Japanese high $ brands are this dealer dependent. Sounds to me like the typical German technology for technology's sake and it grinds me because I am German.

markmam1

dang i didnt know all of this can happen i remember jumping my dads truck with my car thank god nothing happen it was like 8 months ago. now im scared doing pulley stuff and everything

SeaCoupe

I'd rather do the alt in the MB, than in my old 93 Integra. That was a serious mess. Or how about the ever leaking power steering seals. NO thank you!

E

C230 Sport Coup

Dammit!
I got the dreaded Alternator Battery Failure light in red on the dash.

And this after having it rebuilt already.
I guess the regulator failed.
I'm running right at around 12V when running.

I shoulda replaced that old battery sooner. Anyway I put a new one in but the problem is still there.
Oddly though, I'm not discharging...it appears to still be charging, just not at the 13-14v when running like it used.

I got a warranty on the rebuild, so I guess I'lll need to pull the damn thing again.

eesjunin

Pulling this thread back....
nothing has been replaced/added/serviced in a long time...
No electrical parts hve been replaced, all original, battery has been replaced 2-3 years ago ( Adnvanced auto parts)
Was driving from work, highway 45 minutes, and stopped at friends house, left the car running outside, the fogs, radio and headlights on. When got back into the car, 15-20 mins later, the UNDERVOLTAGE CONSUMER DEFECT. Was on along with the CHECK RIGHT FOG LIGHT...i turned off the car and turned back on, nothing flashed.
5 minutes into the drive the UNDERVOLTAGE sign came back... 5 mintes later it was gone....5 minutes after that it came back on...Got to my next destination, turned the car off. Came back out in 15 minutes, started the car...all clear...drove it home 25 minutes, all clear...
Now i would think if the alternator failed...the ALTERNATOR/Battery sign would come up...If the batter was not holding the charge then the ALTERNATOR/BATTERY sign would also be triggered.
Now before i start pulling my Alternator off and going to AUP to check it along with the battery..cant i simly turn the car on, disconnect the battery and see what it does..obviously the car should run regardless if the battery is there or not if the alternator is charging right?
Which symptop points to the regulator? I know once the alternator is out i can check for the wear...but with the original alt from 2001 i would expect it to go at a 9 year mark, right?
Thanks!