Another ASP Pulley DIY Thread
10-26-2002, 09:17 PM
#51
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2002 C230 Coupe
Originally posted by vadim
100 lb*ft. There's no need to go any higher, as the bolt is not under load other than its own tention - there are no axial forces applied to the pulley. The only concern is vibration. But if Threadlocker was used on the bolt's thread, there should be no worries. I'm going to re-torque the pulley bolt after a while, as the material is very soft and it might get a little loose, just like new alloy rims - any wheel manual suggests that the lug bolts be re-torqued after 50-100 miles or so after the initial installation.
100 lb*ft. There's no need to go any higher, as the bolt is not under load other than its own tention - there are no axial forces applied to the pulley. The only concern is vibration. But if Threadlocker was used on the bolt's thread, there should be no worries. I'm going to re-torque the pulley bolt after a while, as the material is very soft and it might get a little loose, just like new alloy rims - any wheel manual suggests that the lug bolts be re-torqued after 50-100 miles or so after the initial installation.
Yes the engine constantly goes under heatup and cooldown thermal cycles, so bolt relaxation can be an issue.
10-26-2002, 09:22 PM
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no! is what i am saying is the diameter of the pulley "snout" the piece that goes in towards the engine, the piece that contacts the seal. from what you are saying it sounds like the diameter of this part of the pulley is smaller than the original. if you put the original on and it doesnt leak, and then you put the new one on and it leaks then most likely its the wrong diameter. check this again using a micrometer or calipers. you cannot accurately check this using a tape measure or whatever you were using. the reason being is you really cannot see .010 or .020 of an inch. this could be enough to cause a leak. recheck and let us know!
10-26-2002, 09:38 PM
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2002 C230 Coupe(M111)
Originally posted by 20FHK02
Thanks a lot Vadim
Yes the engine constantly goes under heatup and cooldown thermal cycles, so bolt relaxation can be an issue.
Thanks a lot Vadim
Yes the engine constantly goes under heatup and cooldown thermal cycles, so bolt relaxation can be an issue.
Wow, 100ft-lbs...that's a lot of torque. Does anyone know the factory specs for tightening it? There's not a pretorque or angle on this bolt, is there?
10-26-2002, 09:39 PM
#54
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Originally posted by BlackC230Coupe
"You got 231 hp at the crank which sounds good to me what was your toqure?
Also i thought i remember u doing something that actually took alot of HP away from u? was that when u had the fuel settings on stage 2 or 3? or when was that?"
"You got 231 hp at the crank which sounds good to me what was your toqure?
Also i thought i remember u doing something that actually took alot of HP away from u? was that when u had the fuel settings on stage 2 or 3? or when was that?"
10-26-2002, 09:45 PM
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2010 C300 4matic
Originally posted by Outland
Wow, 100ft-lbs...that's a lot of torque. Does anyone know the factory specs for tightening it? There's not a pretorque or angle on this bolt, is there?
Wow, 100ft-lbs...that's a lot of torque. Does anyone know the factory specs for tightening it? There's not a pretorque or angle on this bolt, is there?
10-27-2002, 01:07 AM
#56
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Originally posted by Buellwinkle
Torque is 254 lb-ft torque at the crank. 2 lb-ft. more without an filter. The ECU is set to Stage 2 fuel corrective but I have not dynoed since, been saving my money for an intercooler.
Torque is 254 lb-ft torque at the crank. 2 lb-ft. more without an filter. The ECU is set to Stage 2 fuel corrective but I have not dynoed since, been saving my money for an intercooler.
i still thought i remembered you loosing like half your gain with something? what was that? did u ever dyno your car with stage 3 fuel setting? maybe that was it.
10-27-2002, 01:28 AM
#57
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2002 C230 Coupe
Originally posted by Matt230K
The factory spec is 220 ft-lbs. which is really a lot of torque. And my Kleemann is also torqued that much. It was really really hard to tighten. And although many of you disagree, Kleemann still tells me (as of two days ago) that the factory torque should be used for their pulley as the part that the bolt contacts is made of steel which is pressed into the aluminum of the rest of the pulley. So I'm keeping it how it is.
The factory spec is 220 ft-lbs. which is really a lot of torque. And my Kleemann is also torqued that much. It was really really hard to tighten. And although many of you disagree, Kleemann still tells me (as of two days ago) that the factory torque should be used for their pulley as the part that the bolt contacts is made of steel which is pressed into the aluminum of the rest of the pulley. So I'm keeping it how it is.
10-27-2002, 08:41 PM
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2002 C230 Coupe
Originally posted by nov0798
no! is what i am saying is the diameter of the pulley "snout" the piece that goes in towards the engine, the piece that contacts the seal. from what you are saying it sounds like the diameter of this part of the pulley is smaller than the original. if you put the original on and it doesnt leak, and then you put the new one on and it leaks then most likely its the wrong diameter. check this again using a micrometer or calipers. you cannot accurately check this using a tape measure or whatever you were using. the reason being is you really cannot see .010 or .020 of an inch. this could be enough to cause a leak. recheck and let us know!
no! is what i am saying is the diameter of the pulley "snout" the piece that goes in towards the engine, the piece that contacts the seal. from what you are saying it sounds like the diameter of this part of the pulley is smaller than the original. if you put the original on and it doesnt leak, and then you put the new one on and it leaks then most likely its the wrong diameter. check this again using a micrometer or calipers. you cannot accurately check this using a tape measure or whatever you were using. the reason being is you really cannot see .010 or .020 of an inch. this could be enough to cause a leak. recheck and let us know!
If there will still be question about it being 0.00001" smaller or whatever, sorry I do not have laser accuracy measuring tools. But I did used a low tech method: measure the stock OD, fix the caliper slider, fit it over onto the ASP. Both had the same amount tight restrictive feel while trying to take the caliper off based on the subjective feeling of my hands.
Moreover, if one ever took off the ASP pulley, there is an obvious rubbing mark near the mid-height of the steel ring, which is the same as stock. This indicates obvious contact to the seal.
BTW, attached is the S/C pulley size comparison (tolerance is +/-1/64"):
10-29-2002, 11:20 AM
#59
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Originally posted by Buellwinkle
See, exactly, you just answered your own question. You can't compare a turbo/supercharged engine to a normally aspirated engine at different altitudes. The power loses are different. So a while 200hp normally aspiratated motor may develop 166hp at 6,000' as Brandon implies, a 200hp supercharged engine may develop noticably more than that.
See, exactly, you just answered your own question. You can't compare a turbo/supercharged engine to a normally aspirated engine at different altitudes. The power loses are different. So a while 200hp normally aspiratated motor may develop 166hp at 6,000' as Brandon implies, a 200hp supercharged engine may develop noticably more than that.
