Brake Pad Warning
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 24
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2003 C240 6 Speed
Brake Pad Warning
hey, just got the Brake Pad Wear warning come up on the dash of my my 03 C240.
I was poking around and noticed some people saying you don't even need tools to change the pads? I figured since this is a german car it'd be some odd assbackwards way of doing it. If this is a lie do I need special torx bits to change the pads or what tools are involved.
I'm going to run EBC pads on my car, probably RED as i've had great luck with them on my MX-6 and can get them cheap through my friends shop. any input on that?
my car only has 67 thousand kilometers on it (just under 42,000 miles) is it normal for them to wear that quickly?
also - is there anyway to tell through the diagnostics on the car which pads need replacing? I can only assume the fronts will since they do most of the braking but who knows.
thanks in advance!
I was poking around and noticed some people saying you don't even need tools to change the pads? I figured since this is a german car it'd be some odd assbackwards way of doing it. If this is a lie do I need special torx bits to change the pads or what tools are involved.
I'm going to run EBC pads on my car, probably RED as i've had great luck with them on my MX-6 and can get them cheap through my friends shop. any input on that?
my car only has 67 thousand kilometers on it (just under 42,000 miles) is it normal for them to wear that quickly?
also - is there anyway to tell through the diagnostics on the car which pads need replacing? I can only assume the fronts will since they do most of the braking but who knows.
thanks in advance!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 8
From: Pasadena, CA
2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
If you have gotten that far with no pad changes, you get the driver of the year award.
I'm betting it is the fronts. I could walk you through it now, but it has been posted in this forum. Use the search feature.
Real easy job, get the right parts and the part numbers in advance.
If you need help, post your specific question.
E
I'm betting it is the fronts. I could walk you through it now, but it has been posted in this forum. Use the search feature.
Real easy job, get the right parts and the part numbers in advance.
If you need help, post your specific question.
E
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,211
Likes: 2
From: Laguna Niguel, CA
It's easy to tell which pad needs replacing since there's only one sensor, it's the passenger side front. No need to change the other pads as obviously they are not important enough for MB to put a sensor on them like on the higher end MBs.
Pads are like any other car, nothing unusual about MB. Just realize that you have an ABS system so you should open the bleed screw as you push the pistons in to avoid forcing dirt back into the system. Don't want to save $100 on a brake job and end up costing several hundred diagnosing an ABS issue.
Pads are like any other car, nothing unusual about MB. Just realize that you have an ABS system so you should open the bleed screw as you push the pistons in to avoid forcing dirt back into the system. Don't want to save $100 on a brake job and end up costing several hundred diagnosing an ABS issue.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,240
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From: New Jersey
E550 4MATIC
I hope no one minds if I hijack the thread. My car was in for an A service today and I asked them to check the brakes because they have been squeaking a lot. They said they are at 4mm front and rear (car is a 2005 with about 30,000 miles). I have never replaced the pads and I bought the car at 10,000 miles so I assume they weren't replaced prior to me. The sensor has not yet come on, so should I just do it and replace the pads or wait until the sensor comes on?
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Huntington Beach, Ca.
'17 Jaguar XF
[QUOTE=Buellwinkle;2388001]....Just realize that you have an ABS system so you should open the bleed screw as you push the pistons in to avoid forcing dirt back into the system. QUOTE]
Haven't heard that before. What does ABS have to do with it? I thought the ABS hydraulic circuit was isolated until activated? Help me understand this....maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years.
Haven't heard that before. What does ABS have to do with it? I thought the ABS hydraulic circuit was isolated until activated? Help me understand this....maybe I've been doing it wrong all these years.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2005
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'06 CLK500
I hope no one minds if I hijack the thread. My car was in for an A service today and I asked them to check the brakes because they have been squeaking a lot. They said they are at 4mm front and rear (car is a 2005 with about 30,000 miles). I have never replaced the pads and I bought the car at 10,000 miles so I assume they weren't replaced prior to me. The sensor has not yet come on, so should I just do it and replace the pads or wait until the sensor comes on?
Even when it comes on, you still have 10% of the break life (that's what I read somewhere).
But break-fluid flush should be done at 2-year interval.
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,684
Likes: 12
From: West Los Angeles
Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
hey, just got the Brake Pad Wear warning come up on the dash of my my 03 C240.
I was poking around and noticed some people saying you don't even need tools to change the pads? I figured since this is a german car it'd be some odd assbackwards way of doing it. If this is a lie do I need special torx bits to change the pads or what tools are involved.
I'm going to run EBC pads on my car, probably RED as i've had great luck with them on my MX-6 and can get them cheap through my friends shop. any input on that?
my car only has 67 thousand kilometers on it (just under 42,000 miles) is it normal for them to wear that quickly?
also - is there anyway to tell through the diagnostics on the car which pads need replacing? I can only assume the fronts will since they do most of the braking but who knows.
thanks in advance!
I was poking around and noticed some people saying you don't even need tools to change the pads? I figured since this is a german car it'd be some odd assbackwards way of doing it. If this is a lie do I need special torx bits to change the pads or what tools are involved.
I'm going to run EBC pads on my car, probably RED as i've had great luck with them on my MX-6 and can get them cheap through my friends shop. any input on that?
my car only has 67 thousand kilometers on it (just under 42,000 miles) is it normal for them to wear that quickly?
also - is there anyway to tell through the diagnostics on the car which pads need replacing? I can only assume the fronts will since they do most of the braking but who knows.
thanks in advance!
Anyways, I also ran EBC reds on custom cross-drilled rotors. Unfortunately, I've heard people having worse experiences with EBC's on Benzo's then on the MX-6 for some reason. Many of those people that did have bad experiences, had problems with warping. I never did further research to see if they did the proper brake in procedures.
Can't remember off the top of my head if there's a way to determine which pads need replacing, but as cheap as pads are for the front and rear OEM non-bbk on the w203, might as well replace all of them. I just try and view the pads visually much like the mx-6.
I think we have a brake pad diy in the stickies, but can't remember off the top of my head. I'm sure you'll have no trouble finding the answer as I also know you are aware of how to search (as per your first thread post on this forum). As for not needing any tools to replace the pads, I don't know 'bout all that, but from what I've heard, it is also not that difficult either.
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, SC
C230 Kompressor Sport Coupe
by 42K, the light had come on in my car. i ended up getting stuck in military training for nearly forever (about a year) so it went all the way from NJ to detroit and down to oklahoma, back to jersey and down to charleston, SC before i replaced them. my car just turned 60K, and i've had my new pads on for a few thousand. one important thing to note is that although mine wore down to almost bare steel on steel, my rotors were shot! i got my pads from autopartswarehouse.com and my rotors from rockauto.com. i originally ordered everything from autopartswarehouse.com but the rotors were backordered forever. regardless, i have new front pads and rotors and working excellent so far. just put on tires too.
EDIT:
as someone else already mentioned, the sensor is in the right front caliper. i'd make sure you get the right sensor(for example, order one from MB), because i ordered EBC pads, and the sensor i got in the box was the wrong one. also, you'll need nothing more than an ordinary box of tools to change the pads, very simple, you dont need the snap-on man sitting there while you tell him you need every torx and hex key ever invented.
EDIT:
as someone else already mentioned, the sensor is in the right front caliper. i'd make sure you get the right sensor(for example, order one from MB), because i ordered EBC pads, and the sensor i got in the box was the wrong one. also, you'll need nothing more than an ordinary box of tools to change the pads, very simple, you dont need the snap-on man sitting there while you tell him you need every torx and hex key ever invented.
Last edited by kompressor85; Aug 29, 2007 at 01:44 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,848
Likes: 15
From: Orange County
2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
If you change the pads yourself, you do need to measure the disc thickness with a brake micrometer. If the disc is too thin, it will be very dangerous to operate the car, even with new pads.
The only special tool needed is a piston resetting tool. It must have parallel spreaders. Scissor type spreaders can cant the piston and damage the caliper.
The ABS system has a lot of narrow passages that are the reason special brake fluid is used in Mercedes cars. You don't want to fill these with dirty brake fluid. Opening the bleed screw when resetting the pistons will dump most of the dirtiest fluid out the bleed valve. It is easier to reset the pistons with the bleed valve open. You won't be forcing fluid backwards through the ABS/Master cylinder to the tank. If the tank had been "topped off" (which you should never do) resetting the pistons can force fluid like a fountain out the vent hole in the tank cap. Brake fluid will instantly eat automotive paint. Never ask me why the inside of the hood of my Porsche had to be painted.
You do need to change the brake fluid every two years because of copper absorbtion. This will also get rid of the dirt and water in the fluid.
Last edited by Moviela; Aug 29, 2007 at 02:28 AM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,781
Likes: 3
From: Boston
'05 A4 1.8TQM6
4mm is still a lot of pad. You can take them down to 2mm, if you want full measure from the pads. At this point you shold keep an eye on the four front pads. There is only one sensor on one front pad on many C class cars. It would be a shame to grind (and ruin) the disc with the pad backing plate because it wore out a little ahead of the pad with the sensor.
If you change the pads yourself, you do need to measure the disc thickness with a brake micrometer. If the disc is too thin, it will be very dangerous to operate the car, even with new pads.
The only special tool needed is a piston resetting tool. It must have parallel spreaders. Scissor type spreaders can cant the piston and damage the caliper.
If you change the pads yourself, you do need to measure the disc thickness with a brake micrometer. If the disc is too thin, it will be very dangerous to operate the car, even with new pads.
The only special tool needed is a piston resetting tool. It must have parallel spreaders. Scissor type spreaders can cant the piston and damage the caliper.
I'm surprised though that the w203 only has one wear sensor in the front?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,781
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From: Boston
'05 A4 1.8TQM6
Changed my front original pads on the A4 recently, 70k miles with decent (4mm) pad life left!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey
E550 4MATIC
Thanks for all the help guys. I did replace the brake fluid in March because that was exactly two years from the original delivery date. I guess I will wait maybe another month or so to replace the pads, the dealership made it sound like having only 4mm was critical. I am going to have them do the brakes, I don't really do anything on my car, I guess something I should learn.
I am surprised that they said the rear pads were also 4mm, is that strange that they were both at the same level? I thought that the rears lasted longer. Assuming that I don't let the brakes go until they start to grind away at the rotors, I shouldn't need to do rotors this time right?
I am surprised that they said the rear pads were also 4mm, is that strange that they were both at the same level? I thought that the rears lasted longer. Assuming that I don't let the brakes go until they start to grind away at the rotors, I shouldn't need to do rotors this time right?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,781
Likes: 3
From: Boston
'05 A4 1.8TQM6
The general rule is two sets of pads for one set of rotors. Just do a visual check on the rotors. If they have a sizeable lip, measure them to make sure. If they're still pretty flush, you should be good for another set of pads.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,240
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From: New Jersey
E550 4MATIC
My more pressing issue right now is that they found that the valve covers are leaking so I have to bring it back in today.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 24
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2003 C240 6 Speed
hey sorry I forgot about this completely!
I did the brakes on saturday, all 8 pads and two sensors ran me $241 tax in so I got in there, and it was actually far simpler than some cars i've seen (just 2 12 mil bolts on each side and 1 8mil on the passenger side for the fronts - wicked!), I enjoy how the caliper bolts up to the sliders rather than sliding on a bolt like most setups.. but yeah I got the fronts and rears done in about 30 minutes all said and done, very simple operation on these cars.
as for my mx6, yeah I still have it and I am on MX6.com, i'm boostaddict on there I have 1st gen (1990) turbo one though.
ps - mercedes wanted close to $400 just for labour to do it. i say screw that. lol
I did the brakes on saturday, all 8 pads and two sensors ran me $241 tax in so I got in there, and it was actually far simpler than some cars i've seen (just 2 12 mil bolts on each side and 1 8mil on the passenger side for the fronts - wicked!), I enjoy how the caliper bolts up to the sliders rather than sliding on a bolt like most setups.. but yeah I got the fronts and rears done in about 30 minutes all said and done, very simple operation on these cars.
as for my mx6, yeah I still have it and I am on MX6.com, i'm boostaddict on there I have 1st gen (1990) turbo one though.
ps - mercedes wanted close to $400 just for labour to do it. i say screw that. lol
Last edited by Replica; Sep 3, 2007 at 03:25 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: OC, CA
2005 Obsidian Black C230 Komp Sports Sedan, 2006 Iridium Silver ML350 SUV
i need new front rotor/pads, and rear pads.
and dealer quoted me some ridiculous numbers for price..
i just want OEM setups,
anyone know a good reliable sources,(stores or site) to order oem size rotors, pads, and rear pads for 2005 C230?
some of the website i checked out doesnt seems to know what they are talking about, cuz i know 2004.5(4 piston), and 2005(2piston) + have different size rotors/brakes compared to pre 2004.5 models.
oh and i also remember someone says that 2004.5+ have brembo rotors for OEM?
thanks in advance
and dealer quoted me some ridiculous numbers for price..
i just want OEM setups,
anyone know a good reliable sources,(stores or site) to order oem size rotors, pads, and rear pads for 2005 C230?
some of the website i checked out doesnt seems to know what they are talking about, cuz i know 2004.5(4 piston), and 2005(2piston) + have different size rotors/brakes compared to pre 2004.5 models.
oh and i also remember someone says that 2004.5+ have brembo rotors for OEM?
thanks in advance
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,684
Likes: 12
From: West Los Angeles
Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
You're not the one that soldered the turbo kit are you? That thread is getting so much attention and I was almost embarrased to hear a MX-6 owner did that.
Super Moderator Alumni
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,684
Likes: 12
From: West Los Angeles
Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
i need new front rotor/pads, and rear pads.
and dealer quoted me some ridiculous numbers for price..
i just want OEM setups,
anyone know a good reliable sources,(stores or site) to order oem size rotors, pads, and rear pads for 2005 C230?
some of the website i checked out doesnt seems to know what they are talking about, cuz i know 2004.5(4 piston), and 2005(2piston) + have different size rotors/brakes compared to pre 2004.5 models.
oh and i also remember someone says that 2004.5+ have brembo rotors for OEM?
thanks in advance
and dealer quoted me some ridiculous numbers for price..
i just want OEM setups,
anyone know a good reliable sources,(stores or site) to order oem size rotors, pads, and rear pads for 2005 C230?
some of the website i checked out doesnt seems to know what they are talking about, cuz i know 2004.5(4 piston), and 2005(2piston) + have different size rotors/brakes compared to pre 2004.5 models.
oh and i also remember someone says that 2004.5+ have brembo rotors for OEM?
thanks in advance
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,618
Likes: 1
From: stix of florida
Honda Grom
If you have gotten that far with no pad changes, you get the driver of the year award.
I'm betting it is the fronts. I could walk you through it now, but it has been posted in this forum. Use the search feature.
Real easy job, get the right parts and the part numbers in advance.
If you need help, post your specific question.
E
I'm betting it is the fronts. I could walk you through it now, but it has been posted in this forum. Use the search feature.
Real easy job, get the right parts and the part numbers in advance.
If you need help, post your specific question.
E
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 295
Likes: 0
From: OC, CA
2005 Obsidian Black C230 Komp Sports Sedan, 2006 Iridium Silver ML350 SUV
would zimmermann rotors w/ Stock pad be a good combo?
zimmermann rotor is listed 104.95 each... anyone know how much a set of front pad would costs from dealer?
zimmermann rotor is listed 104.95 each... anyone know how much a set of front pad would costs from dealer?
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 749
Likes: 0
From: The OC
2006 C230SS & 2009 E350
I bought it at FJ newport, like 130 something, too lazy to order online. I decided not to install the rotors since I still have enough on the rotors. I will change it next time when I change the pad again. I can sell you my zimmermann rotors if you want, brand new. Pm me if you interested.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,140
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
C3Twon AWD Jumpofffff
i bought my car at 40K last summer and i have close to 60K now still on the pads that were on the car when i drove it off the dealer lot. the car def doesnt stop as well as when i first got it but the light isnt on yet i might just wait to change them. does anyone know how much indys charge to change the brake fluid?
