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Anyone have an opinion about buying Boge struts? Rockauto says they are "for # 203 320 75 30" which is I believe the correct part number for sport suspension.
But it also says that they are "for Europe".
I think there should not be any difference since the part numbers match, right? Or am I missing something?
(BOGE Part # 36C64A or SACHS Part # 300139)
It's the price that makes me cautious.
Seems like Sachs, Boge, Lemfoerder and ZF are all in one huge corporation now.
Maybe it's just the way RockAuto presents their stock...
2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
I had my springs replaced by a highly recommended indie, and for the past half year or so I had a clunking sound on the right front and when I turned the wheels it made a terrible creaking sound only when it was really cold outside. I examined all the front components and everything is tight ie no play on any of the linkages or ball joints.
I ordered a new top section and bearing for the strut tower and use a moonlighting MB dealership mechanic for things I can not do myself. It turns out that the Indie put the strut in with the top bearing oriented a 180* off which caused strain on the rubber top section and caused the internal metal plates to rub. My mechanic noticed that there should be a slight gap on the top of the tower under the retainer bar. The left had the gap but the right was pressing down and this is not right. This offset rubber part can only go in one way but obviously the indie forced it to fit and caused nothing but problems, hence the lack of clearance as well. As soon as the new bearing was fitted the right way it eliminated all the problems I had, gaps were equal on both sides
Moral of the story, while a stealership might cost more, they do know the car inside and out and in the long run it is a cost savings and gets the job done right the first time. The MB dealerships in Toronto area are all corporate owned and run shops by MB Canada. This error by the indie cost me about $150 parts and labour.
I changd my own struts and maounts, and my right side also creaks when cold when I turn the wheel sharply after the car's been sitting for a while. And when it's very cold in the morning I hear the rubbing sound like there's frozen frost in there scraping off. Once I've turned the wheels a couple of times it's gone. The creaking I still get periodically after the car's been sitting for a while.
My top retainer bar is properly spaced off the tower, but I think you also need to grease the top of the rubber bundt to allow a bit of orientation change on sharp turns, because turning changes the geometry of the front suspension. I originally had creaking on both sides after my DIY, and I greased them once, after which the left has become completely silent. I think I need another pass at the right side. When it warms up a bit more I'm going to have another look. I can take off the top retaining bar and push the strut down a bit without having to unbolt it from the steering knuckle, and from there I can try to squeeze in a bit more lithium grease.
Has anyone used this type of spring compressor on the front springs?
Looks like a Klann clone.
Silver attachments apparently work for spring sizes 126-212mm.
Am I right that W203 sport springs are about 170mm diameter?
You're right, sorry, I didn't look closely enough at the parts. And I haven't used one of these ... mine is the hydraulic one that stands up on the floor. This one looks more versatile though with the varying diameters. I just cringe at the thought of one of those forks snapping under load ... :|
So I'm trying to put my car back to stock. I did the rear with no problem. Pretty easy actually. For the front, I noticed the spring is pretty long, needs to be compressed a lot, which spring compressor did you guys ever try and work? I tried with the loaner from autozone, and didn't compress enough.
You can find it for sale on eBay for under $150 ... search for "hydraulic spring compressor".
This one worked fine for me, except I would make two improvements the next time I use it:
1) have a machine shop straighten out the top clasps to a larger radius to match our springs. I had a hard time getting both tangs over the spring.
2) fashion a clamp to hold the strut base upright on the lower support plate. I suggest a pair of 2x4s notched on the inside to cradle the strut shaft, then hold together with a couple of bolts.
I feel that with the time/money you invest in this compressor, it's probably more efficient to take the struts to a shop and have them do the swap... If you only have one car with struts due anyway. I need to check the prices and compressor types at a couple local shops though
2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
Originally Posted by jkowtko
Of course you can always sell it afterwards and recoup most of your investment ...
.
This is a tool I would not buy used, risk is too great if it breaks or has a flaw. All you need is a fine hairline crack and it is disaster or should I say possible death?
Is there a certain way the 'top hat' has to be put on so it can rotate properly or it doesn't matter? Oh, does the top rotate when the strut is put back together?
The "bundt" part of the assembly sits on top of the "brim" and if your bearing is in there it should have full 360 degree rotation between those two parts.
You will see that the shaft hole is at an angle through the "bundt" so you will need to turn it a specific way in order to fit it into the car.
I forget which direction it is oriented while on the car -- but you should be able to turn it (with effort) once the strut assembly is back together and while it is still off the car.
So I'm trying to put my car back to stock. I did the rear with no problem. Pretty easy actually. For the front, I noticed the spring is pretty long, needs to be compressed a lot, which spring compressor did you guys ever try and work? I tried with the loaner from autozone, and didn't compress enough.
I did them with spring compressors that are like the ones you get at autozone etc. Compress 3 of the coils completely and it was compressed enough to remove the stock (non-sport) spring. The H&Rs I installed the same way and had no problems.
Because my W203 has accumulated more than a few miles and its steering felt as if it had lost some of its precision and tracking confidence, it was readily apparent that something was amiss. Since the torque and thrust arm bushing replacements had already been completed, the search was on for the next culprit...sure enough, the source of its numb front end feel, particularly over single-wheel irregularities, was the (#115) strut bearings.
The hardware kit is required by MB for any strut installation. It consists of the requisite consumable washers, encapsulated nuts, and bolts with thread adhesive (Loctite) already applied. Is it absolutely necessary? Probably not. Keep in mind that these lowly fasteners are the only pieces holding the strut in place. They are inexpensive insurance against potential separation and the ensuing catastrophic circumstances...
Replacing the rubber buffer (bump stop) and debris shield is optional for OE applications. They are an inexpensive wear item, so their concurrent replacement would be appropriate. Please be aware that the typically stocked 203 320 09 44 is for the increased ride height US (code 486, non-sport) chassis. While they may work well for those encountering tire interference, it will limit otherwise reasonable jounce travel and contribute to understeer. Those of you running coilovers should disregard the MB part number(s) for this phase of the job..
The only challenge to facilitating the bearing replacement is safely compressing the spring. The appropriate tool can be rented or borrowed. My good friend is a Michelin dealer, so I'd arranged in advance to furnish lunch and beverages for his technicians. They had the bearings swapped out pronto! I implore you to always be mindful that compressed springs store a tremendous amount of potentially lethal energy. They will take your head off if it goes awry!
The car felt much more precise going down the road after the installation. It was an investment well spent in that its improvement was immediately apparent. Slowing the aging process and running with the young bucks...LOL!
Thanks for the write up. Just one thing I couldnt find.
I want to know what the top center strut nut torque spec is?
Its part number 150 in the WIS doc image that the original poster included in the write up.
Im diagnosing 12 &6 oclock play on wheel and have arrived here. I read elsewhere that the top center nut should be 1/3 turn from tight? Or that it controls the amount of pressure on the bearing? So can one overtighten this nut to reduce bearing play temporary?
Referencing your pic of the parts of the strut mount --
and also referencing your diagram earlier in this thread --
There is an inner lock ring (160) that you need that special strut retainer tool to remove and replace. That inner lock ring fits inside a pocket of the top portion of the metal collar in the center of "B". That lock ring does not need to be tight ... it only holds the assembly together when it is not on the car, and the spring would otherwise push the strut mount off the shaft.
Once the strut assembly is put back on the car, the top nut (150) that fastens that crossbar piece (120) is what is torqued to spec. The inner lock ring (160) will sit in a pocket inside the collar of "B", and does not carry any weight once the top nut (150) is on.
Fyi, it is not apparent by the pic, but the actual bearing is in the shape of an annulus/donut and pressed into the underside of "B". it is the pressure of the spring that pushes "A" against "B" ... and the bearing keeps "B" slightly off the surface of "A" and allows "B" to rotate freely against "A".
Referencing your pic of the parts of the strut mount --
and also referencing your diagram earlier in this thread --
There is an inner lock ring (160) that you need that special strut retainer tool to remove and replace. That inner lock ring fits inside a pocket of the top portion of the metal collar in the center of "B". That lock ring does not need to be tight ... it only holds the assembly together when it is not on the car, and the spring would otherwise push the strut mount off the shaft.
Once the strut assembly is put back on the car, the top nut (150) that fastens that crossbar piece (120) is what is torqued to spec. The inner lock ring (160) will sit in a pocket inside the collar of "B", and does not carry any weight once the top nut (150) is on.
Fyi, it is not apparent by the pic, but the actual bearing is in the shape of an annulus/donut and pressed into the underside of "B". it is the pressure of the spring that pushes "A" against "B" ... and the bearing keeps "B" slightly off the surface of "A" and allows "B" to rotate freely against "A".
Thanks so much for that informative and speedy reply. Seems they change the torque specs a bit? I noticed in that wis doc the top nut on the strut to s.knuckle has changed aswell. 100nm to 120nm then 90 degrees. this actually was causing a cluck so i just did it up with breaker bars.
So now that my wheel has ZERO 12&6 and 3&9 o clock play ( except tie rod flex)!! I found that the strut moves UP and Down. Is this normal when jacked up?
Directly up and down, (if it were on a table, to the floor and roof).
Should it move in this direction when jacked up?
Also, when i 3&9 wiggle hard on the wheel, the top of the strut moves around and i can feel a clunk and hear in that area? Mount? Bearing? Maybe has to be off jack?
Should the strut twist on the bearing, 100% flat on the bearing?
Think of a glass cup twisting FLAT on a table. Not lifting up at all.
Or should it move side to side whilest twisting ??
Then, think of a glass cup twisting on a table and it lifting 5mm at the west and east sides while it experiences twist. So two motions.
Awnser if you feel like it, thanks already for the wis doc and the explanation. Still trying to understand how it works.
Thanks so much for that informative and speedy reply. Seems they change the torque specs a bit? I noticed in that wis doc the top nut on the strut to s.knuckle has changed aswell. 100nm to 120nm then 90 degrees. this actually was causing a cluck so i just did it up with breaker bars.
Yeah that top bolt/nut to the steering knuckle is on there pretty tight. I did the 89 ft-lbs (120Nm) and then used a breaker bar to move the nut the extra 90 degrees. Felt to me like I was going to break the bolt ... but it didn't, and has been holding well for 3 years now.
Originally Posted by w203er
So now that my wheel has ZERO 12&6 and 3&9 o clock play ( except tie rod flex)!! I found that the strut moves UP and Down. Is this normal when jacked up?
The top strut mount just sits in a pocket in underside of the fender body of the car, so when you jack up the front of the car the strut assembly "falls out of" that pocket. The top crossbar piece (120) keeps the assembly from coming completely out of that pocket. So yes this vertical movement is normal. When the car is at rest on the ground with the suspension loaded, that crossbar (120) should not be touching the car body -- there should be ~1/4" clearance when you look at it from inside the engine bay.
Originally Posted by w203er
Also, when i 3&9 wiggle hard on the wheel, the top of the strut moves around and i can feel a clunk and hear in that area? Mount? Bearing? Maybe has to be off jack?
If you hear a clunk while wiggling the wheel, maybe another ball joint or the steering rack has some play in it? I have a small clunk in my steering ... I still have to figure out if this is the inner tie rods or play within the rack.
Originally Posted by w203er
Should the strut twist on the bearing, 100% flat on the bearing?
Think of a glass cup twisting FLAT on a table. Not lifting up at all.
Or should it move side to side whilest twisting ??
Then, think of a glass cup twisting on a table and it lifting 5mm at the west and east sides while it experiences twist. So two motions.
"B" should twist easily on "A". You should have been able to verify this before you put the new mounts on the strut. Did you verify that you have a bearing in there?
The Corteco mounts I bought had both "A" and "B" but no bearing:
Whereas the Merle strut mount comes with the bearing (the white ring):
If you assembled your strut without a bearing in it, i can't imagine what it will do when yo try to turn the wheel ...
Yeah that top bolt/nut to the steering knuckle is on there pretty tight. I did the 89 ft-lbs (120Nm) and then used a breaker bar to move the nut the extra 90 degrees. Felt to me like I was going to break the bolt ... but it didn't, and has been holding well for 3 years now.
The top strut mount just sits in a pocket in underside of the fender body of the car, so when you jack up the front of the car the strut assembly "falls out of" that pocket. The top crossbar piece (120) keeps the assembly from coming completely out of that pocket. So yes this vertical movement is normal. When the car is at rest on the ground with the suspension loaded, that crossbar (120) should not be touching the car body -- there should be ~1/4" clearance when you look at it from inside the engine bay.
If you hear a wheel wiggling the wheel, maybe another ball joint or the steering rack has some play in it? I have a small clunk in my steering ... I still have to figure out if this is the inner tie rods or play within the rack.
"B" should twist easily on "A". You should have been able to verify this before you put the new mounts on the strut. Did you verify that you have a bearing in there?
The Corteco mounts I bought had both "A" and "B" but no bearing:
Whereas the Merle strut mount comes with the bearing (the white ring):
If you assembled your strut without a bearing in it, i can't imagine what it will do when yo try to turn the wheel ...
I did not do any strut work at all.
I wanted to know just generally if the movements were normal or not. (Im new to suspension)
Just replaced the struts (2006 c230 sport suspension), had difficulty getting the strut mount/bearing off (hex nut stripped), eventually got them off, put everything back together and ready to install. How do I know if the bearing is positioned correctly? Should the "higher" side be facing to the rear? towards the engine? to the front of the car? Thanks for the help!
I had difficulty removing the strut retaining nut #160 it was corroded in. The removal tool just stripped it. I had to cut the struts with a hacksaw. Good that I was replacing the shocks at the same time. I used Bilsteins.
After assembly, I noticed a 1/16 to 1/8th inch gap at the top assembly between #120 and #130. Is this normal?
01-13-2014, 01:54 PM
