Oil Change Related Issues
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02 C320 S.E., 02 BMW 330XI, 00 4Runner
Oil Change Related Issues
I just bought a C320 Sport Edition, and I usually prefer to change my own oil.
Couple of questions for those that change there own oil...
-First of all do you use 5w 30 or 0w 40. The Mercedes dealer where I bought the filter says they use 5w 30. I use the Mobil 1 5w 30 in my other vehicles, and it would simplify things by sticking to this one type. Is this going to by OK?
-Also does anyone else drain there oil or suck it out? I've seen some of the other posts related to this question, and was wondering how if it's worth the effort to remove the pan on the bottom. Also has anyone installed the Fumoto valve on this car?
Thanks,
Adam
Couple of questions for those that change there own oil...
-First of all do you use 5w 30 or 0w 40. The Mercedes dealer where I bought the filter says they use 5w 30. I use the Mobil 1 5w 30 in my other vehicles, and it would simplify things by sticking to this one type. Is this going to by OK?
-Also does anyone else drain there oil or suck it out? I've seen some of the other posts related to this question, and was wondering how if it's worth the effort to remove the pan on the bottom. Also has anyone installed the Fumoto valve on this car?
Thanks,
Adam
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With your Operator's Manual there is a booklet entitiled "Factory Approved Service Products". On Page 3 is a chart showing which weight of oil to use in various temperature ranges. 5W-30 may be used in the same range as 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40, and 5W-50.
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Originally posted by peet
plug?
maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.
Back to original question - which sucker?
plug?
maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.
Back to original question - which sucker?
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'01 C240/6
Originally posted by peet
plug?
maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.
Back to original question - which sucker?
plug?
maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.
Back to original question - which sucker?
It takes all of 3 minutes.
Have you ever tried it, or are you just saying that?
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check this out!
http://www.fluidcontrol.net/pages/oilacc.html
http://www.fluidcontrol.net/pages/oilacc.html
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From: Nashua, NH
2008 VW GTI
Originally posted by SoCal240/6
Removing 4 screws and a piece of plastic is a pain in the ***???
It takes all of 3 minutes.
Have you ever tried it, or are you just saying that?
Removing 4 screws and a piece of plastic is a pain in the ***???
It takes all of 3 minutes.
Have you ever tried it, or are you just saying that?
Pull car onto ramps.
Put down cardboard.
Crawl under car.
Remove the ~6 bolts (while crawling from one side to the other on your back).
Lower belly pan to floor.
Place drain pan under plug.
Remove plug.
Wait for oil to drain.
Wipe and replace plug.
Raise belly pan back into position and align with one hole.
Repeat for remaining bolts.
If crawling under a dirty car on your knees and back is your bag, go for it.
Suction method:
Remove dipstick.
Insert suction tube.
Suck oil out.
Replace dipstick.
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02 C320 S.E., 02 BMW 330XI, 00 4Runner
Valve might make it easier
I changed the oil last night, and I'm definitly going to order the futomo valve. I'm thinking if I install it with a nipple for an extension of a hose, it will make changing the oil, much easier. I don't fully trust, and don't feel like messing with the sucker method. I always change my oil at least every 4,000 miles, and I don't want to experience the pain in the XXS of remvoing the pan. I'll have to cut a small hole in the plastic cover in order to access the valve.
If anyones interested, check out ....fumotovalve.com.
Thanks Everyone,
Adam
If anyones interested, check out ....fumotovalve.com.
Thanks Everyone,
Adam
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02 C320 S.E., 02 BMW 330XI, 00 4Runner
Mercedes Practice
When I spoke with dealer in CT about what method they use, the head tech told me that don't use the sucker method, except on one or two models that are a total pain in the xxs. He said he doesn't fully trust it, and recommended that do it out the bottom.
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From: FairFax, Virginia
Sucker is my choice
We are using synthetic oil here and if the sucker wont be able to get to the last 5 or 10 % of the old oil. It's OK with me. 90 - 95% of fresh Mobil 1 in there is good enuf for me.
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'01 C240/6
Originally posted by avlis
I have done it and, yes, it's a huge PITA:
Pull car onto ramps.
Put down cardboard.
Crawl under car.
Remove the ~6 bolts (while crawling from one side to the other on your back).
Lower belly pan to floor.
Place drain pan under plug.
Remove plug.
Wait for oil to drain.
Wipe and replace plug.
Raise belly pan back into position and align with one hole.
Repeat for remaining bolts.
If crawling under a dirty car on your knees and back is your bag, go for it.
Suction method:
Remove dipstick.
Insert suction tube.
Suck oil out.
Replace dipstick.
I have done it and, yes, it's a huge PITA:
Pull car onto ramps.
Put down cardboard.
Crawl under car.
Remove the ~6 bolts (while crawling from one side to the other on your back).
Lower belly pan to floor.
Place drain pan under plug.
Remove plug.
Wait for oil to drain.
Wipe and replace plug.
Raise belly pan back into position and align with one hole.
Repeat for remaining bolts.
If crawling under a dirty car on your knees and back is your bag, go for it.
Suction method:
Remove dipstick.
Insert suction tube.
Suck oil out.
Replace dipstick.
Also, you can skip some of your steps. You don't need to jack the car up to change the oil. The car is plenty high enough to do it without any jacks. You also don't need to crawl under the car. Just reach your arm underneath. The screw and the plug are all right there.
For me, its about 20 minutes start to finish. Take off pan (5 minutes), drain oil (change the filter out while its draining), 10 minutes maximium, button back up, 5 minutes.
I'm not saying the pump is a bad way to go - it is probably easier and there's nothing wrong with doing it that way. But you're being a bit of a drama queen to characterize a standard oil change as a "huge PITA."
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From: Behind the Orange Curtain, CA
C230K, 325iT
Originally posted by peet
plug?
maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.
Back to original question - which sucker?
plug?
maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.
Back to original question - which sucker?
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From: Nashua, NH
2008 VW GTI
But you're being a bit of a drama queen to characterize a standard oil change as a "huge PITA."
Therefore, the non-standard removal of plastic panels is a "huge PITA" when compared to simply removing a plug or sucking the oil through the dipstick tube.
I doubt that I can remove the belly pans and reach the plug without raising the car. I haven't tried. It's simply to low (stock). If the plug was closer to the nose or side of the car, then maybe. The plug is close to the rear of the engine and I doubt there is enough clearance to reach the plug from the side. The 240 location may be different than the 230. That's great that you can do it without raising the car.
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'01 C240/6
Originally posted by avlis
You're a bit of a drama queen to define this job as a "standard oil" change. Removing plastic panels to get to the plug is NOT my idea of standard. Jiffy-Lube probably won't touch our cars becuase they only perform "standard" oil changes (not that I'd ever attempt a Jiffy-Lube).
Therefore, the non-standard removal of plastic panels is a "huge PITA" when compared to simply removing a plug or sucking the oil through the dipstick tube.
I doubt that I can remove the belly pans and reach the plug without raising the car. I haven't tried. It's simply to low (stock). If the plug was closer to the nose or side of the car, then maybe. The plug is close to the rear of the engine and I doubt there is enough clearance to reach the plug from the side. The 240 location may be different than the 230. That's great that you can do it without raising the car.
You're a bit of a drama queen to define this job as a "standard oil" change. Removing plastic panels to get to the plug is NOT my idea of standard. Jiffy-Lube probably won't touch our cars becuase they only perform "standard" oil changes (not that I'd ever attempt a Jiffy-Lube).
Therefore, the non-standard removal of plastic panels is a "huge PITA" when compared to simply removing a plug or sucking the oil through the dipstick tube.
I doubt that I can remove the belly pans and reach the plug without raising the car. I haven't tried. It's simply to low (stock). If the plug was closer to the nose or side of the car, then maybe. The plug is close to the rear of the engine and I doubt there is enough clearance to reach the plug from the side. The 240 location may be different than the 230. That's great that you can do it without raising the car.
"Jiffy lube probably won't touch our cars . . ." Umm, yeah. LOL. You're just making that up. Jiffy Lube will be happy to change the oil on a C. The 3 minutes it will take them to remove a few screws and that piece of plastic won't stop them - many new cars these days have similar underbody pans. Call them and find out for yourself. (Its funny to me when people think that their "Benz" is mechanically so different than every other car on the road - its not. Its a standard car).
"I doubt that I can remove the belly pans and reach the plug without raising the car. I haven't tried." Perhaps you should try. I think you will find that you are surprised.
"Therefore, the non-standard removal of plastic panels is a "huge PITA" when compared to simply removing a plug or sucking the oil through the dipstick tube." Tying your shoelaces is therefore a "huge PITA" when compared to velcro laces, right? LOL. BTW, removing a plastic panel is not "non-standard," many cars have them these days (and have for a few years now).
Have you ever even TRIED changing the oil? Or are you just making it up that its a "huge PITA"?
Last edited by SoCal240/6; Nov 1, 2002 at 05:41 PM.
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From: Ohio
2010 C300 4matic
Avlis, don't even bother writing back. SoCal is just going to disagree with everything you say. I don't think we will ever hear a positive post from him.
I think I agree with you, avlis, about the difficulty. I had my car on a lift when I did mine, but the drain plug was pretty far back. So while I can't relate, I do understand.
SoCal will never understand though. The C240 may be a lot different, I'm not sure. The coupe has to have the second belly pan removed which is further back. The C240 may need the front. That might be the difference. But again, I don't know for sure. It seems like it would have been a little bit of a stretch to get the belly pan off just reaching with my arm.
How long are your arms SoCal?
And what's the difference between a screw and a plug? You said they are both right there????
I think I agree with you, avlis, about the difficulty. I had my car on a lift when I did mine, but the drain plug was pretty far back. So while I can't relate, I do understand.
SoCal will never understand though. The C240 may be a lot different, I'm not sure. The coupe has to have the second belly pan removed which is further back. The C240 may need the front. That might be the difference. But again, I don't know for sure. It seems like it would have been a little bit of a stretch to get the belly pan off just reaching with my arm.
How long are your arms SoCal?
And what's the difference between a screw and a plug? You said they are both right there????
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02 C320 S.E., 02 BMW 330XI, 00 4Runner
C320 Pans
When I changed the oil last night on my c320, I put one tire up on a 4 inch block, and it afforded me enough room to scoot underneath and remove the 6 bolts on the plastic cover. There is no way you could drain the oil without removing this cover. Even if you were to reach around it, you would make a massive mess, with the oil spilling everywhere. I would say, it added another 6 minutes to the overall time that it took me to change the oil. It took longer getting the filter off the stick and reinstalling the gaskets. I'm still going with a valve though, because it would be much easier just to reach up through a small hole, switch a valve, and have it pour out into the drain pan.
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From: Nashua, NH
2008 VW GTI
Originally posted by SoCal240/6
Jiffy Lube will be happy to change the oil on a C. The 3 minutes it will take them to remove a few screws and that piece of plastic won't stop them...Call them and find out for yourself.
Jiffy Lube will be happy to change the oil on a C. The 3 minutes it will take them to remove a few screws and that piece of plastic won't stop them...Call them and find out for yourself.
Tying your shoelaces is therefore a "huge PITA" when compared to velcro laces, right?
Have you ever even TRIED changing the oil? Or are you just making it up that its a "huge PITA"?
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'01 C240/6
I think we are in agreement now.
1) You originally suggested that changing the oil is such a "huge PITA" that even places like Jiffy Lube won't do it. Thank you for admitting that you don't personally know it to be true (its not true).
2) Tying your shoelaces can qualify as a "huge PITA" to you. Using that odd definition, I guess I will have to concede - changing the oil can be a "huge PITA" - as much as a "huge PITA" as tying your shoes.
3) You've never even changed the oil. Enough said about your qualifications for giving such strong oil change advice and opinions. Anyone can just guess and make stuff up.
(P.S. Why do so many of you have such a problem with facts and reality??? Taking off the rear pan simply is NOT a "huge PITA" - its an extremely simply matter of removing a few screws - its designed to be easily removed. Why be so adamant about defending a position that simply is not true?)
1) You originally suggested that changing the oil is such a "huge PITA" that even places like Jiffy Lube won't do it. Thank you for admitting that you don't personally know it to be true (its not true).
2) Tying your shoelaces can qualify as a "huge PITA" to you. Using that odd definition, I guess I will have to concede - changing the oil can be a "huge PITA" - as much as a "huge PITA" as tying your shoes.
3) You've never even changed the oil. Enough said about your qualifications for giving such strong oil change advice and opinions. Anyone can just guess and make stuff up.
(P.S. Why do so many of you have such a problem with facts and reality??? Taking off the rear pan simply is NOT a "huge PITA" - its an extremely simply matter of removing a few screws - its designed to be easily removed. Why be so adamant about defending a position that simply is not true?)
Last edited by SoCal240/6; Nov 2, 2002 at 02:16 PM.
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From: Lancaster, CA
1999 E320 - Desert Silver
I found a hand-pump-type oil change pump at Harbor Frieght. I'm trying to use it right now on my Nissan (E320 is next if successful with this one).
Forgive the dumb question, but do I keep pumping until the oil is empty, or do I just get it started and let the siphon action do all the work?
If I have to keep pumping, I'd rather do the drain plug way.
Thanks,
TJ
Forgive the dumb question, but do I keep pumping until the oil is empty, or do I just get it started and let the siphon action do all the work?
If I have to keep pumping, I'd rather do the drain plug way.
Thanks,
TJ
