getchellad

I just bought a C320 Sport Edition, and I usually prefer to change my own oil.
Couple of questions for those that change there own oil...
-First of all do you use 5w 30 or 0w 40. The Mercedes dealer where I bought the filter says they use 5w 30. I use the Mobil 1 5w 30 in my other vehicles, and it would simplify things by sticking to this one type. Is this going to by OK?
-Also does anyone else drain there oil or suck it out? I've seen some of the other posts related to this question, and was wondering how if it's worth the effort to remove the pan on the bottom. Also has anyone installed the Fumoto valve on this car?
Thanks,
Adam

Lynn

With your Operator's Manual there is a booklet entitiled "Factory Approved Service Products". On Page 3 is a chart showing which weight of oil to use in various temperature ranges. 5W-30 may be used in the same range as 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40, and 5W-50.

MBSang

Lynn,

My dealer recently put 5/40 in my car. I have 1/2qt of 0/40 mobile 1 left over. If I need to add oil, can I mix 0/40 to 5/40?

Lynn

I don't have enough knowledge to say for certain whether that is a good practice or not, but in the past I have done that with regular with no adverse effects.

levelr123g

yes you can mix them

peet

Any recommends on the oil suckers? I was thinking about the Griots one but am open to suggestions!
P

levelr123g

why? just pull the drain plug!

peet

plug?

maybe it's because it is underneath a bunch of underbody cowlings that are a pain in the *** to remove. That's why.

Back to original question - which sucker?

Lynn

Many diy'ers are using one called the Topsider. It is used by boat owners for inboards and is sold at most boat dealers.

SoCal240/6

Removing 4 screws and a piece of plastic is a pain in the ***???

It takes all of 3 minutes.

Have you ever tried it, or are you just saying that?

levelr123g

check this out!
http://www.fluidcontrol.net/pages/oilacc.html

avlis

I have done it and, yes, it's a huge PITA:

Pull car onto ramps.
Put down cardboard.
Crawl under car.
Remove the ~6 bolts (while crawling from one side to the other on your back).
Lower belly pan to floor.
Place drain pan under plug.
Remove plug.
Wait for oil to drain.
Wipe and replace plug.
Raise belly pan back into position and align with one hole.
Repeat for remaining bolts.
If crawling under a dirty car on your knees and back is your bag, go for it.

Suction method:
Remove dipstick.
Insert suction tube.
Suck oil out.
Replace dipstick.

getchellad

I changed the oil last night, and I'm definitly going to order the futomo valve. I'm thinking if I install it with a nipple for an extension of a hose, it will make changing the oil, much easier. I don't fully trust, and don't feel like messing with the sucker method. I always change my oil at least every 4,000 miles, and I don't want to experience the pain in the XXS of remvoing the pan. I'll have to cut a small hole in the plastic cover in order to access the valve.
If anyones interested, check out ....fumotovalve.com.
Thanks Everyone,
Adam

getchellad

When I spoke with dealer in CT about what method they use, the head tech told me that don't use the sucker method, except on one or two models that are a total pain in the xxs. He said he doesn't fully trust it, and recommended that do it out the bottom.

Benzer

We are using synthetic oil here and if the sucker wont be able to get to the last 5 or 10 % of the old oil. It's OK with me. 90 - 95% of fresh Mobil 1 in there is good enuf for me.

SoCal240/6

I guess we have different definitions as to what a "huge PITA" is. To me, changing rear wheel bearings, rear subframe bushings, or a heater core is a "huge PITA." Removing 6 screws and draining oil out isn't exactly a "huge PITA" to me - (although its obviously a much more dramatic event for you - I can respect that).

Also, you can skip some of your steps. You don't need to jack the car up to change the oil. The car is plenty high enough to do it without any jacks. You also don't need to crawl under the car. Just reach your arm underneath. The screw and the plug are all right there.

For me, its about 20 minutes start to finish. Take off pan (5 minutes), drain oil (change the filter out while its draining), 10 minutes maximium, button back up, 5 minutes.

I'm not saying the pump is a bad way to go - it is probably easier and there's nothing wrong with doing it that way. But you're being a bit of a drama queen to characterize a standard oil change as a "huge PITA."

MR325iT

I just started using the one from Griot's. Works as advertised, no problems.

avlis

You're a bit of a drama queen to define this job as a "standard oil" change. Removing plastic panels to get to the plug is NOT my idea of standard. Jiffy-Lube probably won't touch our cars becuase they only perform "standard" oil changes (not that I'd ever attempt a Jiffy-Lube).

Therefore, the non-standard removal of plastic panels is a "huge PITA" when compared to simply removing a plug or sucking the oil through the dipstick tube.

I doubt that I can remove the belly pans and reach the plug without raising the car. I haven't tried. It's simply to low (stock). If the plug was closer to the nose or side of the car, then maybe. The plug is close to the rear of the engine and I doubt there is enough clearance to reach the plug from the side. The 240 location may be different than the 230. That's great that you can do it without raising the car.

SoCal240/6

You're right, spending 5 minutes to remove a few screws and a piece of plastic takes this job way out of the realm of "standard" and moves it into the "huge PITA" category. What was I thinking??

"Jiffy lube probably won't touch our cars . . ." Umm, yeah. LOL. You're just making that up. Jiffy Lube will be happy to change the oil on a C. The 3 minutes it will take them to remove a few screws and that piece of plastic won't stop them - many new cars these days have similar underbody pans. Call them and find out for yourself. (Its funny to me when people think that their "Benz" is mechanically so different than every other car on the road - its not. Its a standard car).

"I doubt that I can remove the belly pans and reach the plug without raising the car. I haven't tried." Perhaps you should try. I think you will find that you are surprised.

"Therefore, the non-standard removal of plastic panels is a "huge PITA" when compared to simply removing a plug or sucking the oil through the dipstick tube." Tying your shoelaces is therefore a "huge PITA" when compared to velcro laces, right? LOL. BTW, removing a plastic panel is not "non-standard," many cars have them these days (and have for a few years now).

Have you ever even TRIED changing the oil? Or are you just making it up that its a "huge PITA"?

Matt230K

Avlis, don't even bother writing back. SoCal is just going to disagree with everything you say. I don't think we will ever hear a positive post from him.

I think I agree with you, avlis, about the difficulty. I had my car on a lift when I did mine, but the drain plug was pretty far back. So while I can't relate, I do understand.

SoCal will never understand though. The C240 may be a lot different, I'm not sure. The coupe has to have the second belly pan removed which is further back. The C240 may need the front. That might be the difference. But again, I don't know for sure. It seems like it would have been a little bit of a stretch to get the belly pan off just reaching with my arm.

How long are your arms SoCal?
And what's the difference between a screw and a plug? You said they are both right there????

getchellad

When I changed the oil last night on my c320, I put one tire up on a 4 inch block, and it afforded me enough room to scoot underneath and remove the 6 bolts on the plastic cover. There is no way you could drain the oil without removing this cover. Even if you were to reach around it, you would make a massive mess, with the oil spilling everywhere. I would say, it added another 6 minutes to the overall time that it took me to change the oil. It took longer getting the filter off the stick and reinstalling the gaskets. I'm still going with a valve though, because it would be much easier just to reach up through a small hole, switch a valve, and have it pour out into the drain pan.

avlis

I've seen it posted a few times that Jiffy-Lube places would NOT change that persons oil. I haven't (and will not) try so I was just going on that info. I guess I should never assume (slapping myself on wrist...)

Yes, that is correct. I'm glad you got my point.

No I haven't changed my oil. However, I have removed and reinstalled the plastic panels and discovered that it's a huge PITA compared to not removing/replacing them at all. I'm sure the oil change part is easy not counting the belly pan reinstallation.

SoCal240/6

I think we are in agreement now.

1) You originally suggested that changing the oil is such a "huge PITA" that even places like Jiffy Lube won't do it. Thank you for admitting that you don't personally know it to be true (its not true).

2) Tying your shoelaces can qualify as a "huge PITA" to you. Using that odd definition, I guess I will have to concede - changing the oil can be a "huge PITA" - as much as a "huge PITA" as tying your shoes.

3) You've never even changed the oil. Enough said about your qualifications for giving such strong oil change advice and opinions. Anyone can just guess and make stuff up.

(P.S. Why do so many of you have such a problem with facts and reality??? Taking off the rear pan simply is NOT a "huge PITA" - its an extremely simply matter of removing a few screws - its designed to be easily removed. Why be so adamant about defending a position that simply is not true?)

tj99e320

I found a hand-pump-type oil change pump at Harbor Frieght. I'm trying to use it right now on my Nissan (E320 is next if successful with this one).

Forgive the dumb question, but do I keep pumping until the oil is empty, or do I just get it started and let the siphon action do all the work?

If I have to keep pumping, I'd rather do the drain plug way.

Thanks,
TJ

levelr123g

damm if changing your oil is a big pita, i hope to god you never have a flat tire.