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Awesome! awesome write up Taiwanese! Benz dealer here in Edmonton, Alberta Canada charges $250.00 for an oil change. I thinking of getting a oil extractor that I can just plug into the compressor. Don't really need the whole canister. I can just use an empty canister to dispose the old oil. If its cheaper then I'll probably purchase one. If not the one that you have would be awesome as well. Thank you again for your DIY.
$250 for an oil change is highway robbery! But that shouldn't surprise me given the ridiculous price they charge to change spark plugs! IIRC, they wanted $320 to change the 6 plugs on Mrs. NCMudbug's C230.
So my first diy oil change did not go exactly as planned... When I took the plastic filter assembly out, the tip with the 2 smaller o-rings appears to be missing. I am not sure if it is stuck down the tube or not. I tried gently pulling up with pliers, but am afraid of breaking it and small plastic pieces making it down the drain... My guess is a mechanic over tightened the oil filter assembly In the past and the bottom broke off... Any advice on how to deal with this situation? Should I just replace the filter and large o-ring for now? Thanks!
The stationary part (stuck inside) is attached to the spinny part (the part you removed) with 4 hooks. These hooks get weak over time because German plastic.
Use a good set of pliers and yank the stationary part out. It takes quite a bit of force because the piece is held in place by an O-ring. Don't worry if a couple of plastic bits disintegrate and come off, since the (new) filter will catch any fragments. Obviously do this as carefully as you can, and pick out as many of the bits as possible.
The temporary solution is to yank the stationary part out and pop it back into the spinny part with a new filter. However, the hooks are weakened and the stationary part will stick again the next time you try to remove the thing.
The permanent solution is to replace the entire part for a nominal fee. The entire thing (stationary and spinny half) are a single part. This can be done at the next oil change.
Last edited by slammer111; Dec 15, 2019 at 08:28 PM.
The stationary part (stuck inside) is attached to the spinny part (the part you removed) with 4 hooks. These hooks get weak over time because German plastic.
Use a good set of pliers and yank the stationary part out. It takes quite a bit of force because the piece is held in place by an O-ring. Don't worry if a couple of plastic bits disintegrate and come off, since the (new) filter will catch any fragments. Obviously do this as carefully as you can, and pick out as many of the bits as possible.
The temporary solution is to yank the stationary part out and pop it back into the spinny part with a new filter. However, the hooks are weakened and the stationary part will stick again the next time you try to remove the thing.
The permanent solution is to replace the entire part for a nominal fee. The entire thing (stationary and spinny half) are a single part. This can be done at the next oil change.
Thanks for the quick reply, Slammer. Can I just leave the stationary part in, and slide on the new filter for the time being? And then change the entire filter housing assembly once I get my hands on the replacement part along with a longer pair of pliers? I already drained all the oil, so was hoping to get my car back up running tonight.
You can try but I wouldn't recommend it. If the stuck part is off centre for any reason you're going break the tabs off when you screw in the spinny part. Now you risk those chunks circulating around the engine.
Pull the stationary part out and reattach it to the spinny part, then do your oil and filter change as normal. The plastic will hold together until the the next oil change. I actually put up with this broken part for several years until I got sick of having to yank the part out every time.
You can try but I wouldn't recommend it. If the stuck part is off centre for any reason you're going break the tabs off when you screw in the spinny part. Now you risk those chunks circulating around the engine.
Pull the stationary part out and reattach it to the spinny part, then do your oil and filter change as normal. The plastic will hold together until the the next oil change. I actually put up with this broken part for several years until I got sick of having to yank the part out every time.
Your advice worked perfectly, the bottom part came out easily with long pliers. As you suggested, I will leave it alone and replace the oil filter housing assembly at the next oil change. The only thing that still puzzles me is the oil level. It shows 5.2 qts in the morning even though I poured in 5.8 qts. Is the difference due to some oil remaining in the filter and engine, and not making it all the way down to the oil pan where the sensor is located? I don't want to overfill, but should I continue adding more oil?
I have learned so much from this forum and many of you replied to my question.
Here is my contribution to the forum. This is not a big deal or hard to do. But I thought I share it with everyone.
My 2003 C230 sedan was the last year of free maintenance from MB. This is the first time I have to pay someone or do it myself. After researching and reading this forum, I decided to do it myself.
Parts needed:
6 quarts of Mobil 1 0W40 $6.19 + tax each from Autozone
MB filter from dealer $17.50 + tax
27mm socket $6.99 + tax from Autozone
Mityvac oil extractor from Amazon.com $50.99 no tax
Tools I have
1/2" male to 3/8" female drive adapter
3/8" drive universal joint
4" extension
3/8" drive ratchet
Mityvac P/N: 07400
It comes with 3 different size tubes. I use the medium one.
Here is the dip stick hole to extract oil from.
Here is the oil filter. 27mm only comes in 1/2" drive.
I have a converter from 1/2" male to 3/8" female so I can use my 3/8" extension and 3/8" drive ratchet.
The 27mm socket I have is too tall. In order to take out the oil filter housing, I had to loosen it first.
Unscrew the housing by hand.
I am going to cut the 27mm socket shorter so I can use it to loosen all the way.
Dirty filter.
Just pull out the old oil filter then insert the new one. Don't forget to replace 3 O-Rings.
New oil filter in. Hand tighten first then use the 27mm socket to tighten a little more.
Don't over tighten. The oil filter housing is made of plastic.
This Mityvac is designed for 7.3 liter (about 7 quarts). My car is 5.8 quarts.
At first I was not sure when it's done extracting all the oil. But later I heard slashing sound then I gave it a few more pumps to make sure I got all the oil out.
I repeat this a few times.
I pour 5.5 quarts of Mobil 1. Waited about 5 minutes then use my dash to check oil level.
It shows level OK.
I started the engine. Shut off.
Waited 5 minutes.
Make sure no leak.
Check oil level again.
OK, done.
Pour dirty oil back to Mobil 1 jars then take them to Autozone for recycle.
Total time: 45 minutes (30 minutes next time)
Total cost: about $55 for oil and oil filter
Mityvac and 27mm socket can be used in the future.
Will I do it again? Sure, it's so easy.
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2007.11.07
By the way, MB recommends every 1 year or 10,000 miles for service. I had 9,000 miles on it. The oil was dirty and black. I would change it every 5,000 miles in the future.
with that being said would i have to remove the oil prior to changing the filter or could i just change the filter?
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