DIY:W203 radiator R&R



[img=http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6197/dsc028381024x768.th.jpg]
[img=http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/4297/dsc028371024x768.th.jpg]

*specific to automatic transmission W203s*
Parts required:
(1) 203 500 05 03 radiator
(2) 028 997 62 48 ATF tube seal
(2) 003 997 17 89 coolant hose seal
(1) 140 991 00 55 ATF cap lock pin
Consumables:
Q 1 03 0002 antifreeze
A 001 989 21 03 19 ATF
Distilled water
Specialty tools:
140 589 15 21 00 ATF dipstick
Infrared thermometer
Raise and safely secure the car. Remove the undertray. Drain the radiator via the red petcock.

Remove the upper radiator support.
The horn mount is attached the rear of the bumper reinforcement. It will need to be unbolted in order to pull the support clear.

Disconnect the ‘hood open’ sensor wiring.

There is no need to disconnect the hood latch cables.
Lay the radiator support assembly aside.

Disconnect the fan wiring. Pull the C clip retainers from the upper/lower coolant hoses and ATF tubes. Be prepared for additional fluid discharge.
Gently twist and pull the lines free from their attaching junctions.

Squeeze, and then push the A/C condenser mounting T barb clips from the radiator.
Pull the radiator/cooling fan assembly up and out. Remove the fan while it’s on the workbench. There are two sprung plastic tabs that secure it to the radiator, in addition to the alignment sleeves.
Clean the sealing grooves and fit the new seals to the coolant hoses and ATF tubes.

&

Transfer the existing upper and lower rubber mounts to the new radiator. Lower it in place. Attach the hoses/tubes. Ensure that they are fully seated before snapping the C clips home.
Install the fan and reconnect its wiring.

Refill the reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of MB antifreeze and distilled water.

Check for leaks. Reinstall the upper support, its paraphernalia, and the undertray. Lower the car. Start the engine. Continue to add a 50/50 mix until the thermostat has opened. When the reservoir has been thoroughly purged of its residual air, install the cap.
Because our 722.6xx transmission is persnickety about its fluid level, that which was lost during the installation must be replenished. Remove the lock pin from the fill tube cap, and then the cap itself.

Disregard the 'workshop' admonition.

With the engine running and the transmission in Park, insert the ATF dipstick until it bottoms against the pan. The tool is unlike a conventional dipstick in that when it is measuring, the handle is not flush with the top of its tube.

If the fluid level is too low, estimate the amount that was sacrificed, and then replenish a like quantity. If it reads to at least the minimum mark, it’s time for a lengthy test drive to get everything up to proper temperature. Reinstall the cap. Get it to WOT several times to replicate real-world conditions.

The correct ATF level can only be properly established when the fluid is stabilized at 80 degrees Celsius. MB’s procedure nessecitates STAR DAS. Since I don’t have the scratch for that wonderful ~$15,000 machine, an infrared reading from the exterior of the transmission pan had to suffice.

Add ATF as required to achieve the proper level.
Verify the antifreeze level after several heating/cooling cycles to ensure all is as it should be.
I've been trying a few ways to get the tabs clear for 30 minutes and at a lose on how to separate the bottom end.
I'm obviously missing something, probably simple.
https://mbworld.org/forums/images/sm...smashfreak.gif
TIA for enlightening me.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/
cant wait to get all of it and start on it
http://www.rmeuropean.com/
cant wait to get all of it and start on it
Can you take pictures of the bolts removed and make more call-outs? I attempted to start this and had problems identifying what I needed to remove (was having a bad day to boot). So kind of like a retard proof one/pictures.
p3
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I didnt see there where 2 tabs that you have to push in so the heat exchange and the radiator can be seperated. and its a pain to line it up when you install the new radiator.
Im not done yet im draining the tranny and installing new fluids so I will post more if I find some other problems
tranny fluid is really dark I dont know how MB can say you dont need to change it!
I've been trying a few ways to get the tabs clear for 30 minutes and at a lose on how to separate the bottom end.
I'm obviously missing something, probably simple.
https://mbworld.org/forums/images/sm...smashfreak.gif
TIA for enlightening me.


I'm at this part too, there's something holding the stupid radiator at the bottom! How did you get it out?!
Thanks
The cheapest and easiest solution is to eliminate the problem entirely by installing an external tranny cooler and not using the one in the radiator. Good DIY though, impressive pictures and write up i'm sure it took some time to do.
Last edited by aznstud510x; Feb 26, 2010 at 02:34 PM.


You’re most welcome.
It’ll be a sad day when my garage and its toolboxes are used only for storage.







