Originally Posted by phoenix_iii

I agree. We need a step by step with pictures.

Originally Posted by splinter

*specific to automatic transmission W203s*

Parts required:
(1) 203 500 05 03 radiator
(2) 028 997 62 48 ATF tube seal
(2) 003 997 17 89 coolant hose seal
(1) 140 991 00 55 ATF cap lock pin

Consumables:
Q 1 03 0002 antifreeze
A 001 989 21 03 19 ATF
Distilled water

Specialty tools:
140 589 15 21 00 ATF dipstick
Infrared thermometer


Raise and safely secure the car. Remove the undertray. Drain the radiator via the red petcock.



Remove the upper radiator support.
The horn mount is attached the rear of the bumper reinforcement. It will need to be unbolted in order to pull the support clear.



Disconnect the ‘hood open’ sensor wiring.



There is no need to disconnect the hood latch cables.
Lay the radiator support assembly aside.



Disconnect the fan wiring. Pull the C clip retainers from the upper/lower coolant hoses and ATF tubes. Be prepared for additional fluid discharge.

Gently twist and pull the lines free from their attaching junctions.



Squeeze, and then push the A/C condenser mounting T barb clips from the radiator.



Pull the radiator/cooling fan assembly up and out. Remove the fan while it’s on the workbench. There are two sprung plastic tabs that secure it to the radiator, in addition to the alignment sleeves.

Clean the sealing grooves and fit the new seals to the coolant hoses and ATF tubes.



&




Transfer the existing upper and lower rubber mounts to the new radiator. Lower it in place. Attach the hoses/tubes. Ensure that they are fully seated before snapping the C clips home.

Install the fan and reconnect its wiring.



Refill the reservoir with a 50/50 mixture of MB antifreeze and distilled water.



Check for leaks. Reinstall the upper support, its paraphernalia, and the undertray. Lower the car. Start the engine. Continue to add a 50/50 mix until the thermostat has opened. When the reservoir has been thoroughly purged of its residual air, install the cap.

Because our 722.6xx transmission is persnickety about its fluid level, that which was lost during the installation must be replenished. Remove the lock pin from the fill tube cap, and then the cap itself.


Disregard the 'workshop' admonition.



With the engine running and the transmission in Park, insert the ATF dipstick until it bottoms against the pan. The tool is unlike a conventional dipstick in that when it is measuring, the handle is not flush with the top of its tube.



If the fluid level is too low, estimate the amount that was sacrificed, and then replenish a like quantity. If it reads to at least the minimum mark, it’s time for a lengthy test drive to get everything up to proper temperature. Reinstall the cap. Get it to WOT several times to replicate real-world conditions.



The correct ATF level can only be properly established when the fluid is stabilized at 80 degrees Celsius. MB’s procedure nessecitates STAR DAS. Since I don’t have the scratch for that wonderful ~$15,000 machine, an infrared reading from the exterior of the transmission pan had to suffice.



Add ATF as required to achieve the proper level.
Verify the antifreeze level after several heating/cooling cycles to ensure all is as it should be.

Originally Posted by akssdd

I have a 2006 C230 Sport Sedan, manual transmission. I'm looking for the correct part number to replace my radiator. Had it pressure tested recently and it's leaking engine oil and it's getting into the coolant somewhere in the rad. I've scoure the DIY and the interwebz looking for a radiator that is suitable for a manual transmission. Anyone?

Originally Posted by C230 Mulac

Look at RM European. They are my go-to for parts information. You should be able to look at the radiator itself and find a part # on it. Looks like there are 2 different part numbers on RM European, I assume one is manual and one is auto.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...FaAxohNag.aspx

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...unS3anCwA.aspx

They also list a "secondary" radiator, not sure what that is but there is only one of them:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe...TEtZNdjvw.aspx

Originally Posted by akssdd

It's a valeo rad and I have been reading a lot of negative things about them. But that site isn't specific enough.

Originally Posted by akssdd

I have a 2006 C230 Sport Sedan, manual transmission. I'm looking for the correct part number to replace my radiator. Had it pressure tested recently and it's leaking engine oil and it's getting into the coolant somewhere in the rad. I've scoure the DIY and the interwebz looking for a radiator that is suitable for a manual transmission. Anyone?

Originally Posted by C230 Mulac

Depends on which Valeo. The 2002-2003 C32's had issues with the Valeo rad. I haven't had issues with my 2005 C55. Mine started leaking last year so I replaced with the one from RME described as the "Genuine Mercedes" OEM part. Haven't had any problems, you should be okay.

What exactly are you looking for? Even if the rad in your car is Valeo it'll still have the part # on it.

Originally Posted by akssdd

I didn't look for a part number on it, just saw Valeo on the top after skimming through the forums. Didn't catch that certain year vehicles had most of the problems. I have oil in my coolant. Took it to a mechanic and he said the head gaskets/block are fine but told me it was the oil cooler next to the oil filter that is leaking oil. I don't see how that it's an "oil cooler" but it's somehow getting into the coolant.

Originally Posted by C230 Mulac

That is an oil cooler. You can see at the top of the water pump there is a ~3" hose running vertically into it (can't remember there the other line goes). It could very well be leaking and require replacement. I have not done that on mine but it looks like it would be a big PITA, as you will have to drain BOTH oil and coolant to disconnect everything and put it back together, and then refill it.

Originally Posted by akssdd

.... it's leaking engine oil and it's getting into the coolant somewhere....

Originally Posted by mleskovar

What makes you think it's the radiator? Could be the head gasket.