DIY:W203 radiator R&R
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 12
From: Orange County, CA
GMC - Miata - Trek - P-Car
The procedure will likely be quite similar.
Of course your radiator PN will differ owing to its manual transmission,
and the fact MB chose to specify many unique Coupé parts.
Upside is you’ll not have to fuss with those pesky ATF cooling tubes -
more than halving the effort required for installation.
Of course your radiator PN will differ owing to its manual transmission,
and the fact MB chose to specify many unique Coupé parts.
Upside is you’ll not have to fuss with those pesky ATF cooling tubes -
more than halving the effort required for installation.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
2002 Mercedes-Benz C230 Sport Coupe, 1986 BMW 325e
The procedure will likely be quite similar.
Of course your radiator PN will differ owing to its manual transmission,
and the fact MB chose to specify many unique Coupé parts.
Upside is you’ll not have to fuss with those pesky ATF cooling tubes -
more than halving the effort required for installation.
Of course your radiator PN will differ owing to its manual transmission,
and the fact MB chose to specify many unique Coupé parts.
Upside is you’ll not have to fuss with those pesky ATF cooling tubes -
more than halving the effort required for installation.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 384
Likes: 1
From: FORT LAUDERDALE FL
2019 S63 COUPE
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 5
From: Toronto, NYC
2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
Hey guys....need some help identifying if this is a Valeo or a BEHR radiator. Ive tried looking for the label but cant seem to find it. I do some wavy crimping, so its most probably a BEHR but it would be awesome if someone who knows what to look for can confirm.
Pictures are here -->
https://mbworld.org/forums/4178041-post54.html
Thanks.
Pictures are here -->
https://mbworld.org/forums/4178041-post54.html
Thanks.
Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
c240
I ordered my radiator from www.autohausaz.com. It is also BEHR brand. To my surprise, it is made in Germany.
What do you guys think? Am I just lucky?
What do you guys think? Am I just lucky?
Newbie
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
c230 2002 Kompressor
Hello all - I have a question that I hope has a simple answer. I noticed today that I have a pretty steady leak of the red automatic transmission fluid leaking from the connection where the transmission cooling lines join with the radiator.
The metal hose goes into the radiator and there's a plastic housing that has a metal clip that seems to hold the hose in place. I've taken the clip apart and moved things around, but can't seem to find how to tighten the connection between the metal hose and the radiator.
Here's a pic. The connections are on the back side of the radiator on the left hand side of the car when you're facing the engine from the front. You can't see the metal tube, but it connects to the metal joint and runs back to the transmission.
Has anyone ever had this issue? Any ideas on how to tighten the connection to stop the leak?
Thanks!
The metal hose goes into the radiator and there's a plastic housing that has a metal clip that seems to hold the hose in place. I've taken the clip apart and moved things around, but can't seem to find how to tighten the connection between the metal hose and the radiator.
Here's a pic. The connections are on the back side of the radiator on the left hand side of the car when you're facing the engine from the front. You can't see the metal tube, but it connects to the metal joint and runs back to the transmission.
Has anyone ever had this issue? Any ideas on how to tighten the connection to stop the leak?
Thanks!
Thanks.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 24
From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
behind that metal clip, there is an o-ring. At minimum, you will need to replace that o-ring. We can't tell with confidence whether the replacement of that o-ring fixes the leak. You will have to replace that o-ring to find out.
If the leak continues even after the o-ring replacement, then you may need to replace the radiator. If I were you, I'd start with the o-ring. It's only a couple of dollars (and some trans fluid).
If the leak continues even after the o-ring replacement, then you may need to replace the radiator. If I were you, I'd start with the o-ring. It's only a couple of dollars (and some trans fluid).
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, New York
2014 E350 4Matic
The O-ring does not fix the problem.I had the same problem last spring and was lucky i caught it on time on this forum.Replace the radiator with the BEHR brand and replace your transmission fluid, filter and gasket.There is a DIY radiator R&R on this forum done by Splinter and transmission fluid,gasket and filter replacement at Installuniversity.com.It's all pretty straight forward.Do it before you blow out your tranny as the antifreeze is already contaminating your transmission fluid.Good luck!
Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Florida
'03 C32 AMG
Saw in the carfax that my '03 C32 had it's radiator replaced at 40.000 miles or so. Just went outside to check it, and it has a Valeo manufactured 07/07/04
Any thoughts on this? Could this be to a previous contamination, and with the newer Valeo could this still be an issue?
Any thoughts on this? Could this be to a previous contamination, and with the newer Valeo could this still be an issue?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Not all Valeo radiators leak. Your new one is probably OK. Old one was found faulty. Only way to check is to take a transmission fluid sample & have it analysed for glycol.
Most move to the Behr radiator because it never gives trouble.
Most move to the Behr radiator because it never gives trouble.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
C230
I just finished working on my 2004.0 C230 and took the cover off from the bottom to check the radiator manufacturer.
I couldn't find any label except a sticker
Daimler Chrysler
A 203 500 0000
0101 087 0000
U32 - 3140
ZGS 008
I know Behr was the other brand to Valeo, is this another?
I couldn't find any label except a sticker
Daimler Chrysler
A 203 500 0000
0101 087 0000
U32 - 3140
ZGS 008
I know Behr was the other brand to Valeo, is this another?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 24
From: Boston, MA
'14 ML350, '13 C220 CDI, '07 C280, '98 ML320
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 12
From: Orange County, CA
GMC - Miata - Trek - P-Car
A test for glycol contamination is advisable before preemptively ditching a Valeo.
Mr. Ruck is correct to recommend retrofitting a trouble-free Behr should replacement be deemed necessary.
Purely coincidental that they’re manufactured in South Africa. ;)
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
C230
Anyways, my end tanks are crimped just like the above picture. Is it safe to say that my radiator is NOT valeo? Where would the sticker for the Behr brand be?
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,267
Likes: 170
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Here's a pic of what the Behr logo may also look like if it wasn't made in Glyn's garage.
Just a "B".
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 18, 2011 at 12:58 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
2002 C32 AMG
More difficult than Splinter's instructions indicate
Splinter's step-by-step instructions make it sound a lot easier than it really is. At one point his instructions say "Pull the radiator/cooling fan assembly up and out." What a joke. At that point it took me about 2-3 more hours of futzing, grunting and groaning, pushing and shoving, scratching my head and pulling my hair out to get the radiator removed. Maybe splinter's old radiator wasn't attached properly, because he didn't make any mention of the other four places in which the radiator is attached to the A/C "radiator" and other smaller "radiator" in front of the A/C "radiator". If I didn't already have the new Behr replacement radiator to look at I don't know if I would ever have figured out what was preventing me from "Pull[ing] the radiator/cooling fan assembly up and out." On each side of the coolant/ATF radiator there are two more sets of interlocking tabs/hooks that attach the radiator to the A/C "radiator" and the small "radiator" in front of the A/C "radiator". The first tab/hook on each side is about half-way between the top and bottom of the radiator. The bottom tab on each side has to be pushed UP to disengage it from the radiator. This isn't easy. Once I was able to figure out how it all connected together -- by looking at the new radiator because you can't see it from above or below -- I was able to disconnect the bottom tabs with a screwdriver pushing up from below while simultaneously pushing/pulling the radiator toward the engine. In addition, the fan wiring harness is attached to the fan assembly at three points with tie wraps that have to be cut in order to free the fan wiring harness from it. If you don't do that, it won't come out. Even when you do finally get all the tabs/hooks/tie wraps disengaged/cut, it still takes a lot of grunting and groaning and pushing and shoving to get the radiator out. Getting the new radiator back in isn't much easier because in addition to getting all the side tabs/hooks re-engaged, there is also a "tab A into slot A" at the top and bottom of the radiator and fan housing that need to be engaged. That makes eight separate things that have to be fully engaged more-or-less simultaneously to make sure everything all goes back together correctly. Reassembly is made easier if you remove the screen/grill that is just below and behind where your front license plate is installed so you can get one hand on the small "radiator" in front of the A/C "radiator" so you can keep it from sliding forward while you're trying to get all the tabs/hooks to reconnect. Removing that screen/grill is fairly easy. There are four "slide-in" connectors that the screen/grill slides into. You'll need a small screwdriver that you can poke through the screen/grill and depress small tabs that lock the screen/grill into the attachment clips while you pull the screen/grill out (forward) with a pair of needle-nose pliers. When you're all done, just push the screen/grill back into the four connectors until the tabs click into place.
Reattaching the hoses to the new radiator is a beyotch unless you moisten the o-rings with a bit of antifreeze or ATF fluid (depending on which hose it is). By the time you're ready to attach the hoses, there isn't enough room left to enable you to get enough leverage to fully insert the hoses into the radiator unless you lube them up a bit.
It is a good idea to remove the screw directly in front of the windshield washer fluid reservoir cap. That will enable you to pull the hood lock cable out with the radiator support assembly/bracket. If you don't do this, the radiator cable will pull out of the radiator support bracket when you "lay the radiator support assembly aside". Splinter doesn't mention this.
Also, regarding finding the Valeo label on the radiator. It is at the top-center (left-to-right) of the radiator. It'll be easiest to see if you remove the top radiator support bracket AND use a moistened cotton ball or Q-tip to clean the dust/dirt that accumulates on it. Once you do that it'll be easy to see the word "Valeo" on the label.
I ordered the new Behr radiator from autopartswarehouse.com. It took three weeks to receive it from them. They apparently had to order it from Germany and then shipped it overnight to me once they received it. Unfortunately, they didn't provide any indication that this was the case, so I ended up calling them about a week after they charged my credit card to see what the status was. The customer service rep told me it had shipped that day, but didn't tell me that it (apparently) shipped to THEM that day (I really think he was just blowing smoke up my a**). A couple weeks later I was going to call them and cancel the order on the same day that I finally got a tracking number from them via email. So, if you order a replacement radiator from them or anywhere else on the internet, be prepared for a bit of a wait before you receive it.
I also installed new radiator hoses. I was able to buy the upper hose online (from rmeuropean.com, IIRC) for about $40, but I was unable to find the lower one online anywhere. So I ended up buying it from the local MB stealership: Mercedes Benz of Westminster (Denver, CO). That validated something I already knew. Never, never, never do business with them. Two reasons: 1) The parts guy, Bob, told me they would have the hose for me in two days. Two days later (Friday) I called them, no hose. Monday for sure, he says. Monday, no call from them. No hose. Tuesday, I called MB Denver (formerly Murray Motors Imports) to see if they might have one in stock. They didn't have the hose either, but they told me where in the U.S. there were six of the lower hoses, including one at MB Westminster. So, I had to call MB Denver to find out that my hose had arrived at MB Westminster. MB Westminster never did call me to let me know they had it. Reason #2 to never, never, never do business with MB Westminster is because their price ($120) for the lower radiator hose is $40 more than the price at MB Denver. So, if you have multiple MB stealerships in your area it pays to call around before you place an order with an MB dealer.
Reattaching the hoses to the new radiator is a beyotch unless you moisten the o-rings with a bit of antifreeze or ATF fluid (depending on which hose it is). By the time you're ready to attach the hoses, there isn't enough room left to enable you to get enough leverage to fully insert the hoses into the radiator unless you lube them up a bit.
It is a good idea to remove the screw directly in front of the windshield washer fluid reservoir cap. That will enable you to pull the hood lock cable out with the radiator support assembly/bracket. If you don't do this, the radiator cable will pull out of the radiator support bracket when you "lay the radiator support assembly aside". Splinter doesn't mention this.
Also, regarding finding the Valeo label on the radiator. It is at the top-center (left-to-right) of the radiator. It'll be easiest to see if you remove the top radiator support bracket AND use a moistened cotton ball or Q-tip to clean the dust/dirt that accumulates on it. Once you do that it'll be easy to see the word "Valeo" on the label.
I ordered the new Behr radiator from autopartswarehouse.com. It took three weeks to receive it from them. They apparently had to order it from Germany and then shipped it overnight to me once they received it. Unfortunately, they didn't provide any indication that this was the case, so I ended up calling them about a week after they charged my credit card to see what the status was. The customer service rep told me it had shipped that day, but didn't tell me that it (apparently) shipped to THEM that day (I really think he was just blowing smoke up my a**). A couple weeks later I was going to call them and cancel the order on the same day that I finally got a tracking number from them via email. So, if you order a replacement radiator from them or anywhere else on the internet, be prepared for a bit of a wait before you receive it.
I also installed new radiator hoses. I was able to buy the upper hose online (from rmeuropean.com, IIRC) for about $40, but I was unable to find the lower one online anywhere. So I ended up buying it from the local MB stealership: Mercedes Benz of Westminster (Denver, CO). That validated something I already knew. Never, never, never do business with them. Two reasons: 1) The parts guy, Bob, told me they would have the hose for me in two days. Two days later (Friday) I called them, no hose. Monday for sure, he says. Monday, no call from them. No hose. Tuesday, I called MB Denver (formerly Murray Motors Imports) to see if they might have one in stock. They didn't have the hose either, but they told me where in the U.S. there were six of the lower hoses, including one at MB Westminster. So, I had to call MB Denver to find out that my hose had arrived at MB Westminster. MB Westminster never did call me to let me know they had it. Reason #2 to never, never, never do business with MB Westminster is because their price ($120) for the lower radiator hose is $40 more than the price at MB Denver. So, if you have multiple MB stealerships in your area it pays to call around before you place an order with an MB dealer.
Last edited by lclarkc32; Dec 6, 2011 at 12:52 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 142
Likes: 6
From: New Orleans, LA
C230K Sedan
Splinter's step-by-step instructions make it sound a lot easier than it really is. At one point his instructions say "Pull the radiator/cooling fan assembly up and out." What a joke. At that point it took me about 2-3 more hours of futzing, grunting and groaning, pushing and shoving, scratching my head and pulling my hair out to get the radiator removed. Maybe splinter's old radiator wasn't attached properly, because he didn't make any mention of the other four places in which the radiator is attached to the A/C "radiator" and other smaller "radiator" in front of the A/C "radiator". If I didn't already have the new Behr replacement radiator to look at I don't know if I would ever have figured out what was preventing me from "Pull[ing] the radiator/cooling fan assembly up and out." On each side of the coolant/ATF radiator there are two more sets of interlocking tabs/hooks that attach the radiator to the A/C "radiator" and the small "radiator" in front of the A/C "radiator". The first tab/hook on each side is about half-way between the top and bottom of the radiator. The bottom tab on each side has to be pushed UP to disengage it from the radiator. This isn't easy. Once I was able to figure out how it all connected together -- by looking at the new radiator because you can't see it from above or below -- I was able to disconnect the bottom tabs with a screwdriver pushing up from below while simultaneously pushing/pulling the radiator toward the engine. In addition, the fan wiring harness is attached to the fan assembly at three points with tie wraps that have to be cut in order to free the fan wiring harness from it. If you don't do that, it won't come out. Even when you do finally get all the tabs/hooks/tie wraps disengaged/cut, it still takes a lot of grunting and groaning and pushing and shoving to get the radiator out. Getting the new radiator back in isn't much easier because in addition to getting all the side tabs/hooks re-engaged, there is also a "tab A into slot A" at the top and bottom of the radiator and fan housing that need to be engaged. That makes eight separate things that have to be fully engaged more-or-less simultaneously to make sure everything all goes back together correctly. Reassembly is made easier if you remove the screen/grill that is just below and behind where your front license plate is installed so you can get one hand on the small "radiator" in front of the A/C "radiator" so you can keep it from sliding forward while you're trying to get all the tabs/hooks to reconnect. Removing that screen/grill is fairly easy. There are four "slide-in" connectors that the screen/grill slides into. You'll need a small screwdriver that you can poke through the screen/grill and depress small tabs that lock the screen/grill into the attachment clips while you pull the screen/grill out (forward) with a pair of needle-nose pliers. When you're all done, just push the screen/grill back into the four connectors until the tabs click into place.
Reattaching the hoses to the new radiator is a beyotch unless you moisten the o-rings with a bit of antifreeze or ATF fluid (depending on which hose it is). By the time you're ready to attach the hoses, there isn't enough room left to enable you to get enough leverage to fully insert the hoses into the radiator unless you lube them up a bit.
It is a good idea to remove the screw directly in front of the windshield washer fluid reservoir cap. That will enable you to pull the hood lock cable out with the radiator support assembly/bracket. If you don't do this, the radiator cable will pull out of the radiator support bracket when you "lay the radiator support assembly aside". Splinter doesn't mention this.
Also, regarding finding the Valeo label on the radiator. It is at the top-center (left-to-right) of the radiator. It'll be easiest to see if you remove the top radiator support bracket AND use a moistened cotton ball or Q-tip to clean the dust/dirt that accumulates on it. Once you do that it'll be easy to see the word "Valeo" on the label.
I ordered the new Behr radiator from autopartswarehouse.com. It took three weeks to receive it from them. They apparently had to order it from Germany and then shipped it overnight to me once they received it. Unfortunately, they didn't provide any indication that this was the case, so I ended up calling them about a week after they charged my credit card to see what the status was. The customer service rep told me it had shipped that day, but didn't tell me that it (apparently) shipped to THEM that day (I really think he was just blowing smoke up my a**). A couple weeks later I was going to call them and cancel the order on the same day that I finally got a tracking number from them via email. So, if you order a replacement radiator from them or anywhere else on the internet, be prepared for a bit of a wait before you receive it.
I also installed new radiator hoses. I was able to buy the upper hose online (from rmeuropean.com, IIRC) for about $40, but I was unable to find the lower one online anywhere. So I ended up buying it from the local MB stealership: Mercedes Benz of Westminster (Denver, CO). That validated something I already knew. Never, never, never do business with them. Two reasons: 1) The parts guy, Bob, told me they would have the hose for me in two days. Two days later (Friday) I called them, no hose. Monday for sure, he says. Monday, no call from them. No hose. Tuesday, I called MB Denver (formerly Murray Motors Imports) to see if they might have one in stock. They didn't have the hose either, but they told me where in the U.S. there were six of the lower hoses, including one at MB Westminster. So, I had to call MB Denver to find out that my hose had arrived at MB Westminster. MB Westminster never did call me to let me know they had it. Reason #2 to never, never, never do business with MB Westminster is because their price ($120) for the lower radiator hose is $40 more than the price at MB Denver. So, if you have multiple MB stealerships in your area it pays to call around before you place an order with an MB dealer.
Reattaching the hoses to the new radiator is a beyotch unless you moisten the o-rings with a bit of antifreeze or ATF fluid (depending on which hose it is). By the time you're ready to attach the hoses, there isn't enough room left to enable you to get enough leverage to fully insert the hoses into the radiator unless you lube them up a bit.
It is a good idea to remove the screw directly in front of the windshield washer fluid reservoir cap. That will enable you to pull the hood lock cable out with the radiator support assembly/bracket. If you don't do this, the radiator cable will pull out of the radiator support bracket when you "lay the radiator support assembly aside". Splinter doesn't mention this.
Also, regarding finding the Valeo label on the radiator. It is at the top-center (left-to-right) of the radiator. It'll be easiest to see if you remove the top radiator support bracket AND use a moistened cotton ball or Q-tip to clean the dust/dirt that accumulates on it. Once you do that it'll be easy to see the word "Valeo" on the label.
I ordered the new Behr radiator from autopartswarehouse.com. It took three weeks to receive it from them. They apparently had to order it from Germany and then shipped it overnight to me once they received it. Unfortunately, they didn't provide any indication that this was the case, so I ended up calling them about a week after they charged my credit card to see what the status was. The customer service rep told me it had shipped that day, but didn't tell me that it (apparently) shipped to THEM that day (I really think he was just blowing smoke up my a**). A couple weeks later I was going to call them and cancel the order on the same day that I finally got a tracking number from them via email. So, if you order a replacement radiator from them or anywhere else on the internet, be prepared for a bit of a wait before you receive it.
I also installed new radiator hoses. I was able to buy the upper hose online (from rmeuropean.com, IIRC) for about $40, but I was unable to find the lower one online anywhere. So I ended up buying it from the local MB stealership: Mercedes Benz of Westminster (Denver, CO). That validated something I already knew. Never, never, never do business with them. Two reasons: 1) The parts guy, Bob, told me they would have the hose for me in two days. Two days later (Friday) I called them, no hose. Monday for sure, he says. Monday, no call from them. No hose. Tuesday, I called MB Denver (formerly Murray Motors Imports) to see if they might have one in stock. They didn't have the hose either, but they told me where in the U.S. there were six of the lower hoses, including one at MB Westminster. So, I had to call MB Denver to find out that my hose had arrived at MB Westminster. MB Westminster never did call me to let me know they had it. Reason #2 to never, never, never do business with MB Westminster is because their price ($120) for the lower radiator hose is $40 more than the price at MB Denver. So, if you have multiple MB stealerships in your area it pays to call around before you place an order with an MB dealer.
I'm glad you posted this. I'm stuck on m271 right now. I'm at the very last step where you grunt and moan . I have the instructions from MERCEDES STAR website. You got to take the fan out first and then pull the radiator out. It is a B*tch pulling this thing out. I quit for tonight, I'm going to attempt it agian in the morning. I will use a long flat head to push up on those botton tabs tommorrow to push it up . Everyone was pretty much easy taking things out up until this part. Where the hidden tabs are down below on both sides.
I hope someone has figure out a easier way to do this. Needs to post it.
