Potential supercharger problem - help.
Thread Starter
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C-class
Potential BIG problem - help.
Car is currently at a shop, hopefully have an answer this afternoon.
Problem is:
- problem happened today, no previous signs of a problem
- idles fine
- drives "rough" at low RPM, sounds like an exhaust leak
- the "rough" sound gets worse at high RPM
- car has less power when "rough" sound occurs
- the "rough" sound appears to come from the front of the engine
- supercharger whine gets loud with increasing RPM, louder than ever before
- problem is intermittent, car drives fine for a bit, then rough, then fine, ... yet more rough than fine
This car has had the:
- oil in harness issue resolved
- leaking cam sensors issue resolved
Problem is:
- problem happened today, no previous signs of a problem
- idles fine
- drives "rough" at low RPM, sounds like an exhaust leak
- the "rough" sound gets worse at high RPM
- car has less power when "rough" sound occurs
- the "rough" sound appears to come from the front of the engine
- supercharger whine gets loud with increasing RPM, louder than ever before
- problem is intermittent, car drives fine for a bit, then rough, then fine, ... yet more rough than fine
This car has had the:
- oil in harness issue resolved
- leaking cam sensors issue resolved
Last edited by Kristen; Mar 28, 2008 at 07:49 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,212
Likes: 8
From: Pasadena, CA
2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
Car is currently at a shop, hopefully have an answer this afternoon.
Problem is:
- problem happened today, no previous signs of a problem
- idles fine
- drives "rough" at low RPM, sounds like an exhaust leak
- the "rough" sound gets worse at high RPM
- car has less power when "rough" sound occurs
- the "rough" sound appears to come from the front of the engine
- supercharger whine gets loud with increasing RPM, louder than ever before
- problem is intermittent, car drives fine for a bit, then rough, then fine, ... yet more rough than fine
I'm guessing the supercharger has finally had it, car has 150K kms (~90K miles).
If it is, the car will get parked till I have time to fix it and can source a cheaper MP45 than $2K.
Can someone post the service manual pages of the supercharger on the M271, in particular how to remove and what additional parts are needed (gaskets...?).
I have taken the intake off before and changed the $12 hose, so getting at the SC shouldn't be much more work, and the weather here is getting better.
Problem is:
- problem happened today, no previous signs of a problem
- idles fine
- drives "rough" at low RPM, sounds like an exhaust leak
- the "rough" sound gets worse at high RPM
- car has less power when "rough" sound occurs
- the "rough" sound appears to come from the front of the engine
- supercharger whine gets loud with increasing RPM, louder than ever before
- problem is intermittent, car drives fine for a bit, then rough, then fine, ... yet more rough than fine
I'm guessing the supercharger has finally had it, car has 150K kms (~90K miles).
If it is, the car will get parked till I have time to fix it and can source a cheaper MP45 than $2K.
Can someone post the service manual pages of the supercharger on the M271, in particular how to remove and what additional parts are needed (gaskets...?).
I have taken the intake off before and changed the $12 hose, so getting at the SC shouldn't be much more work, and the weather here is getting better.
So this is the M271 right? I have had my S/C rebuilt on the M111 at 97k miles. Really, it was for peace of mind. When I pulled it, the vanes looked great, and the bearings were top notch. But it gave me piece of mind.
What I'm thinking is actually your actuator. This is what opens up in the intake tract to get air to your S/C. Check this first. There is a reset procedure for the M111, there has to be one for your car.
Try that, and let us know.
Ed
Thread Starter
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C-class
Its is the M271.
There is a noticeable rough sound from the front of the engine, would the actuator cause this?
By actuator, you mean the throttle body?
MBWorld Fanatic!
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Posts: 7,272
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
These guys will rebuild your SC for $300, and they told me a 2 day turnaround.
http://www.magnumpowers.com/thunder_blwr_ser.php
"All M45, M62 and M90 Eaton Supercharger rebuilds are $300 plus shipping."
I have 123K on my blower and it still works.
You can look up all the parts and see diagrams by signing up for a free 1 year subscription to the MB EPC (elec parts cat, get it?)
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/coverage.jsp
Then you can order the parts from various dealers who sell parts online.
I now use Autobahn in Belmont, CA, but there are others in Florida.
Search on google for "trademotion" and "mercedes" to find the dealer that works best for you. Part prices are much less than if you went to the same dealer over the counter.
Good luck!
Nothing mechanical is hard, just can be strenuous.
Getting the SC off the 1st time is a PIA, but well worth the money saved.
On the M111 you end up pulling the top of the SC off in order to reach the rest of the bolts.
The intake hose is held in place by a clip that looks like a paper clip
(same as the tranny hoses at the rad)
and nothing more! Note the orientation of the clip when removing.
Will save you much trouble later, and if it pops off the car will have much less power, just need to reseat the hose.
If anyone knows of a shop that rebuilds SC's in Cali please post.
http://www.magnumpowers.com/thunder_blwr_ser.php
"All M45, M62 and M90 Eaton Supercharger rebuilds are $300 plus shipping."
I have 123K on my blower and it still works.
You can look up all the parts and see diagrams by signing up for a free 1 year subscription to the MB EPC (elec parts cat, get it?)
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/coverage.jsp
Then you can order the parts from various dealers who sell parts online.
I now use Autobahn in Belmont, CA, but there are others in Florida.
Search on google for "trademotion" and "mercedes" to find the dealer that works best for you. Part prices are much less than if you went to the same dealer over the counter.
Good luck!
Nothing mechanical is hard, just can be strenuous.
Getting the SC off the 1st time is a PIA, but well worth the money saved.
On the M111 you end up pulling the top of the SC off in order to reach the rest of the bolts.
The intake hose is held in place by a clip that looks like a paper clip
(same as the tranny hoses at the rad)
and nothing more! Note the orientation of the clip when removing.
Will save you much trouble later, and if it pops off the car will have much less power, just need to reseat the hose.
If anyone knows of a shop that rebuilds SC's in Cali please post.
Thread Starter
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These guys will rebuild your SC for $300, and they told me a 2 day turnaround.
http://www.magnumpowers.com/thunder_blwr_ser.php
"All M45, M62 and M90 Eaton Supercharger rebuilds are $300 plus shipping."
I have 123K on my blower and it still works.
You can look up all the parts and see diagrams by signing up for a free 1 year subscription to the MB EPC (elec parts cat, get it?)
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/coverage.jsp
Nothing mechanical is hard, just can be strenuous.
Getting the SC off the 1st time is a PIA, but well worth the money saved.
On the M111 you end up pulling the top of the SC off in order to reach the rest of the bolts.
The intake hose is held in place by a clip that looks like a paper clip
(same as the tranny hoses at the rad)
and nothing more! Note the orientation of the clip when removing.
Will save you much trouble later, and if it pops off the car will have much less power, just need to reseat the hose.
http://www.magnumpowers.com/thunder_blwr_ser.php
"All M45, M62 and M90 Eaton Supercharger rebuilds are $300 plus shipping."
I have 123K on my blower and it still works.
You can look up all the parts and see diagrams by signing up for a free 1 year subscription to the MB EPC (elec parts cat, get it?)
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/coverage.jsp
Nothing mechanical is hard, just can be strenuous.
Getting the SC off the 1st time is a PIA, but well worth the money saved.
On the M111 you end up pulling the top of the SC off in order to reach the rest of the bolts.
The intake hose is held in place by a clip that looks like a paper clip
(same as the tranny hoses at the rad)
and nothing more! Note the orientation of the clip when removing.
Will save you much trouble later, and if it pops off the car will have much less power, just need to reseat the hose.
Even if the SC is toast, it can be rebuilt?
I'm not worried about getting the SC out, just worried that its what is wrong and that its bad weather here right now (Canada), making it hard to work on. Hopefully the garage can diagnose, otherwise off to the dealer Mon and I'll be car-pooling.
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Miss-fire on cylinder 3, car going into limp mode.
Changing the coilpack and spark plug did not help.
Think this might be the $12 hose resurfacing? I did have problems getting it all tightened down.
Changing the coilpack and spark plug did not help.
Think this might be the $12 hose resurfacing? I did have problems getting it all tightened down.
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Portland, OR
2005 c230k ss
I just replaced my supercharger yesterday. And from what you are telling on your post I think it is the supercharger. I will post all the part #'s that you will need when I get off work. My paper work is at home hope this will help you
Thread Starter
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P2058 is the crank position sensor.
This could be an issue since its one of the sensors that get fouled with the "oil in harness" issue, and my O2 sensors were drenched with oil, no doubt this senor was too.
This could be an issue since its one of the sensors that get fouled with the "oil in harness" issue, and my O2 sensors were drenched with oil, no doubt this senor was too.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 537
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From: Charlotte, NC
2013 S550, CLS500, ‘03 SL500, “92 190E Sportline
I had the $12 hose problem, car had a rough idle, lost power, poor acceleration, mechanic did the obd scan thing and said 2 cylinders were misfiring, maf, etc....
turned out it was only that hose, got if fixed 2 weeks ago, now the car's fine....
also check on your cam sensors...
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P2004
P2014
P2023
From Google it seems they might be related to emissions or cam sensors.
I'm going to start with the CPS sensor, since I've replaced both O2 sensors and the MAF when I had the damn "oil in harness" issue.
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Did you get the "$12 hose" fixed? not sure if you know, but it's a national recall now, you can get it fixed for free at any Mercedes Dealership.
I had the $12 hose problem, car had a rough idle, lost power, poor acceleration, mechanic did the obd scan thing and said 2 cylinders were misfiring, maf, etc....
turned out it was only that hose, got if fixed 2 weeks ago, now the car's fine....
also check on your cam sensors...
I had the $12 hose problem, car had a rough idle, lost power, poor acceleration, mechanic did the obd scan thing and said 2 cylinders were misfiring, maf, etc....
turned out it was only that hose, got if fixed 2 weeks ago, now the car's fine....
also check on your cam sensors...
Its might be that hose, going to check it tomorrow to see if the bottom clamp is on tight, had a tough time installing it.
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Drove the car home in limp mode only to be greeted by a smell of burning oil and the "oil level low" warning message.
Popped the hood and found it smoking from under the intake box. Took off the intake box to see where its burning oil.
Checked the $12 hose - its fine.
The burning oil seems to be coming from or under the intake manifold. Its going into the dealer Mon to see what's wrong. Anything else I can check until then?
I'm going to clean the crank position sensor tomorrow and see if that helps since its one of the codes that was thrown. Also going to remove the cam sensors and see if there's any problems with them.
Popped the hood and found it smoking from under the intake box. Took off the intake box to see where its burning oil.
Checked the $12 hose - its fine.
The burning oil seems to be coming from or under the intake manifold. Its going into the dealer Mon to see what's wrong. Anything else I can check until then?
I'm going to clean the crank position sensor tomorrow and see if that helps since its one of the codes that was thrown. Also going to remove the cam sensors and see if there's any problems with them.
, shouldn't have driven it home.
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