HeirKranz

It didn't look like it, but I have a spare set on the Wreck I can throw on tonight---- If there was oil, it would have only gone to the upper O2 sensor right???

Is there any device (idle control valve) that I should look for or replace that would cause the rough idle and smooth running at higher RPM's ?????


as for the coolant problem from konka, your 13.00 coolant sensor needs to be replaced on your resovoir

C230 Sport Coup

Bad coil packs tend to show up at hi rpm.
Misfires above a certain # ( I think it said in the DVD, like 20 out of 600)
will automatically turn off the fuel to that cylinder so if it's just idling crappy, and then rev's fine, it's not likely the issue. Unless the ECU is damaged? I seem to recall you can't swap the ECU's between cars
(keeps people from being able to steal them and just put in a new ECU)
that the components in the car "marry" themselves to the ECU after a few hundred miles. Hey just something I read around here somewhere.

More likely is the other components in the chain, connecting through the
oily harness.

Even a bad 02 sensor is not likely to result in bad idle, just crappy mileage, and a code. They default to running rich when they fail.

Try disconnecting the MAF, and or cleaning it.

At least you're making progress.
Sorry to hear of your dilemma. You have the most miles of anyone I think.
Ha, I was on tirerack last night and read a review from a guy with a 2005 C230 with 120K miles. Damn!

C230 Sport Coup

It's amazing how useless the service DVD can be.
It's full of info, but the search engine stinks, and the inof is presented sort of
matter of fact, but without any, like ,, cause and effect relationship or troubleshooting data. Well it has some procedures, but most require some special tool or something.

Nothing so simple as disconnect the MAF and see how it runs, no there's a 10 page troubleshooting procedure, that requires a DAS.

I can't wait till someone comes out a manual, like Haynes, or something that actually explains the function of things.

HeirKranz

I replaced the MAF with mine, both MAFs were new and work great on my car but the problem is still there on hers--only at idle-- and that knocking noise is scaring the hell out of me---

Does anyone know if there is a manual idle control valve or is the MAF/ECU that controls it now---???

C230 Sport Coup

Time to see the stealer.
Your ECU may still be messed but not throwing codes.
Maybe not sending correct timing info...
CPS?

HeirKranz

replaced the crank positioning sensor too--- time to take it into the stealer and bend over

I hate not owning a strdiagnosis laptop

C230 Sport Coup

Well for $200 you could get one of these....
and then let us all know how it works out

I've been considering this purchase for a while, but there seems to be mixed reviews. And they don't take returns or provide tech support....

shizo

That sucks!! It sounds like you've tried just about everything.

Be sure to let us know the details about what happens at the dealer...details about the car that is, not the bending over part!

shizo

Have you heard of anyone that has used or bought one of these before? I was actually looking at it the other day (being bored at work is great!) but they really don't provide much info. Some demos or more info on functionality would have been nice. And no refunds? Sounds sketchy.

HeirKranz

OK ---verdict is in from the dealership............

I guess I did everything correctly, however one of the connections on the wiring harnes (wich I will find out later today) was not fully snapped into place---

so i pait them $125 to figure out my stupid mistake--So i did fix the problem!!!

I'll post the exact diagnosis and sensor that was out of place when i get the workup

C230 Sport Coup

So, did you replace the engine harness?
And if yes, you did this yourself?

Pretty cool! How much was the harness? Or did you pull it from your parts car?

avlis

Thanks Shizo for posting this info. I did this fix Sunday and all is well.

One thing to note: the round part circled in red has a flat that engages the shaft. I didn't notice this until I started tightening the bolt and it didn't feel right. I think I may have damaged the flat on the round part slightly. I reinstalled it best I could and I think it's ok.

Instead of draining the radiator, I plugged a piece of rubber hose into the coolant nipple and siphoned off a couple quarts into a clean container. It's quick and no mess.

HeirKranz

I pulled the harness from the 8000 mile engine in my garage, the harness i believe is $1100 or more from the stealr--- yes I did it myself and working in the sand and grass finished the swap within 2 hrs time, being fanatical (taking the one out and putting the new one in (stupid stupid big hands getting in the way) I bet monet the connector that was loose was the one under the intake on the block--hard to reach even from under the car---all retaining clips are in the proper place to hold the harness where it needs to be.

as for the stealer, they never did notate which wire was loose .

C230 Sport Coup

Well, it shouldn't be too long before C coupes start showing up at the pick and pull.

dredgemont

how do I clean the engine harness? does someone have any detail instructions?

drb930

Quote:
Originally Posted by amanonfire View Post
Sunroof is an easy fix, yet first thing first:

Check your cam sensors for the isolation wire. This is by far the worse fault on that engine, and can be fixed for $40 and a few mins of your time. Consequences are your ECU fills up with oil and is ruined.

A buddy of mine went through 6 O2 sensors under warranty on his 2002 C230 before we found the problem posted online.
Does anyone know about the part number or where and how to do this Isolation Wire?
Have been reading on here about the Cam Sensor leaking and don't want to go through that.

Thanks,
Dave

drb930

[QUOTE=avlis;2807983]
One thing to note: the round part circled in red has a flat that engages the shaft. I didn't notice this until I started tightening the bolt and it didn't feel right. I think I may have damaged the flat on the round part slightly. I reinstalled it best I could and I think it's ok.

It really is amazing that the engineers at MB are on Crack.
I did this today, installed a new Cam Sensor.
If they had spent $.10 more on each car and installed the water Nipple as a Threaded part it would be so much easier.
You would not have to even take the magnet off then.
Oh well good not for about another 50K.

jscavo

i need to do this repair to my 2002 c230k. local parts dept only has the cam sensor, no plug or starter (not very helpful). any place online I could get it? Also at one point there was a online parts/diy link that showed exploited views of parts/engine diagrams. anyone remeber this or the link for it.

drb930

Where are you located?
I got mine from the stealer for like $45.00 with the plug.
You can try parts.com
The way the M111 mounts i dont think you need the starter wire.

jscavo

I am in NY. It seemed like the sensor and plug are seperate parts. Hate to get the sensor and not a plug. I agree on not needing the starter wire. I see the oil residue on the sensor and enginerblock area not so much on/in the connector but figured better safe than sorry. I am waiting for duval parts dept. to get back on the 3 part #'s stated in the first post of the thread.


is this part also called a camshaft magnetic sensor as on parts.com?

drb930

On my car it was not really leaking through the plug as it was leaking from behind the sensor as you describe. I don't know what kind of sealer the factory uses there, but it had become hard and brittle and was the major leak.
I cleaned the area and used a bead of high temp silicon to seal the back of the sensor to the head.

jscavo

got pricing from duval:

CAM SENSOR 1110510177 $43.50
LINE 2711502733 $21.75
PLUG 1119970186 $2.47
--------------
$ 67.72
FRUEIGH UOS GROUND $ 11.00
---------
$ 78.72 TOTAL


I'd love to get confirmation from the board that these are the correct parts for the m111 engine (2002 c230k) before I place order. These are the parts from the first post above. confirmation would be great.


Also in the attached pic. What is the tube between the engine and the supercharger(circled) ? I see residue oil around this tube/pipe on both sides .

drb930

That looks like the right cam sensor because the part number starts with 111.
The M271 cam sensor part number starts with 271.

SeaCoupe

Part you have circled is the breather hose from the valve cover to the air intake. With time they get hot and loose. Therefore you get the oil leak.

jscavo

got my parts from Duval. I quickly replaced just the starter line since I'll have to wait until the weekend for the sensor. the starter line is pretty stiff wire compared to what is there. Is it just the routing of the wire the prevents the oil seepage or is the starter line constructed to prevent oil seepage?