M111 Leaky Cam Sensor Replacement
Is there any device (idle control valve) that I should look for or replace that would cause the rough idle and smooth running at higher RPM's ?????
as for the coolant problem from konka, your 13.00 coolant sensor needs to be replaced on your resovoir




Misfires above a certain # ( I think it said in the DVD, like 20 out of 600)
will automatically turn off the fuel to that cylinder so if it's just idling crappy, and then rev's fine, it's not likely the issue. Unless the ECU is damaged? I seem to recall you can't swap the ECU's between cars
(keeps people from being able to steal them and just put in a new ECU)
that the components in the car "marry" themselves to the ECU after a few hundred miles. Hey just something I read around here somewhere.
More likely is the other components in the chain, connecting through the
oily harness.
Even a bad 02 sensor is not likely to result in bad idle, just crappy mileage, and a code. They default to running rich when they fail.
Try disconnecting the MAF, and or cleaning it.
At least you're making progress.
Sorry to hear of your dilemma. You have the most miles of anyone I think.
Ha, I was on tirerack last night and read a review from a guy with a 2005 C230 with 120K miles. Damn!
I opened the case on the oil soaked one and cleaned it with the electrical cleaner 3x and was able to remove all the oil that had seeped into it from the harness which was clearly visible----
THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP--- BUT IT STILL IDLED BAD
So I need some extra help-- car runs like a champ at every place but Idle--- so what could it be--it is now not throwing any codes and not reving up and down but still sputtering and missing only at idle-- and that "valves hitting the piston"??? sound is still there-- it sounds pretty bad but only once every 30 sec
ANY IDEAS????

I might have to take it in now that it is not throwing a code for me to go after--- BTW new plugs--but have not replaced the plug coils, I guess that is the next step tonight-- what about the O2 sensors ???




It's full of info, but the search engine stinks, and the inof is presented sort of
matter of fact, but without any, like ,, cause and effect relationship or troubleshooting data. Well it has some procedures, but most require some special tool or something.
Nothing so simple as disconnect the MAF and see how it runs, no there's a 10 page troubleshooting procedure, that requires a DAS.
I can't wait till someone comes out a manual, like Haynes, or something that actually explains the function of things.
Does anyone know if there is a manual idle control valve or is the MAF/ECU that controls it now---???
I hate not owning a strdiagnosis laptop
Last edited by HeirKranz; Apr 2, 2008 at 02:21 PM.




and then let us all know how it works out

I've been considering this purchase for a while, but there seems to be mixed reviews. And they don't take returns or provide tech support....
Be sure to let us know the details about what happens at the dealer...details about the car that is, not the bending over part!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I guess I did everything correctly, however one of the connections on the wiring harnes (wich I will find out later today) was not fully snapped into place---



so i pait them $125 to figure out my stupid mistake-
-So i did fix the problem!!!
I'll post the exact diagnosis and sensor that was out of place when i get the workup




And if yes, you did this yourself?
Pretty cool! How much was the harness? Or did you pull it from your parts car?
One thing to note: the round part circled in red has a flat that engages the shaft. I didn't notice this until I started tightening the bolt and it didn't feel right. I think I may have damaged the flat on the round part slightly. I reinstalled it best I could and I think it's ok.
Instead of draining the radiator, I plugged a piece of rubber hose into the coolant nipple and siphoned off a couple quarts into a clean container. It's quick and no mess.
I pulled the harness from the 8000 mile engine in my garage, the harness i believe is $1100 or more from the stealr--- yes I did it myself and working in the sand and grass finished the swap within 2 hrs time, being fanatical (taking the one out and putting the new one in (stupid stupid big hands getting in the way) I bet monet the connector that was loose was the one under the intake on the block--hard to reach even from under the car---all retaining clips are in the proper place to hold the harness where it needs to be.
as for the stealer, they never did notate which wire was loose .
Originally Posted by amanonfire View Post
Sunroof is an easy fix, yet first thing first:
Check your cam sensors for the isolation wire. This is by far the worse fault on that engine, and can be fixed for $40 and a few mins of your time. Consequences are your ECU fills up with oil and is ruined.
A buddy of mine went through 6 O2 sensors under warranty on his 2002 C230 before we found the problem posted online.
Does anyone know about the part number or where and how to do this Isolation Wire?
Have been reading on here about the Cam Sensor leaking and don't want to go through that.
Thanks,
Dave
One thing to note: the round part circled in red has a flat that engages the shaft. I didn't notice this until I started tightening the bolt and it didn't feel right. I think I may have damaged the flat on the round part slightly. I reinstalled it best I could and I think it's ok.
It really is amazing that the engineers at MB are on Crack.

I did this today, installed a new Cam Sensor.
If they had spent $.10 more on each car and installed the water Nipple as a Threaded part it would be so much easier.

You would not have to even take the magnet off then.
Oh well good not for about another 50K.
is this part also called a camshaft magnetic sensor as on parts.com?
Last edited by jscavo; Feb 9, 2009 at 10:02 AM.
I cleaned the area and used a bead of high temp silicon to seal the back of the sensor to the head.
CAM SENSOR 1110510177 $43.50
LINE 2711502733 $21.75
PLUG 1119970186 $2.47
--------------
$ 67.72
FRUEIGH UOS GROUND $ 11.00
---------
$ 78.72 TOTAL
I'd love to get confirmation from the board that these are the correct parts for the m111 engine (2002 c230k) before I place order. These are the parts from the first post above. confirmation would be great.
Also in the attached pic. What is the tube between the engine and the supercharger(circled) ? I see residue oil around this tube/pipe on both sides .
Last edited by jscavo; Feb 9, 2009 at 11:35 AM.

CAM SENSOR 1110510177 $43.50
LINE 2711502733 $21.75
PLUG 1119970186 $2.47
--------------
$ 67.72
FRUEIGH UOS GROUND $ 11.00
---------
$ 78.72 TOTAL
I'd love to get confirmation from the board that these are the correct parts for the m111 engine (2002 c230k) before I place order. These are the parts from the first post above. confirmation would be great.
Also in the attached pic. What is the tube between the engine and the supercharger(circled) ? I see residue oil around this tube/pipe on both sides .





