M111 Leaky Cam Sensor Replacement
#52
MBWorld Fanatic!
However, if the connector is leaking it requires replacing the connector.
I am quite certain the process is detailed somewhere online, but I can find it.
This is what can happen....
http://web.mac.com/motorwerks/German...Leaking.html#1
But basically you have to drain the pan, drop the pan, replace the connector,
reverse the process.
If it's in the cable or TCU you'll want to pull those parts and clean them.
Damn, I cannot find that DIY anywhere! What happened to it?
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 02-18-2009 at 01:54 PM.
#53
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c200k
Cheers. Well I gave up looking spent ages. Are you talking about the sensor that has a little plate on front of it. Is it a big problem. How do you know if it has leaked into the module if it doesn't show any faults
Last edited by MOBC200K; 02-19-2009 at 05:48 AM.
#54
CEL afer cam sensor install
ran with the starter line added for about a week with no issue. Installed the new cam sensor and plug as per this threads instructions. no issue. Drove the car twice within the day. Sat for over night. about 24 hrs from install drove the car and got CEL. Car drives normal. CEL has been on about 2 days straight with about 6 starts.
what would be a good scanner to get to determine code? need live data read out? or just codes? first CEL since new.
what would be a good scanner to get to determine code? need live data read out? or just codes? first CEL since new.
#55
Super Moderator
You just need codes. Scanner must be CANBUS compatible
Good cheap scanner
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98568
Good more expensive one
Good cheap scanner
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98568
Good more expensive one
#56
autozone
autozone ran a scan for free and gave P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1). they won't clear the CEL but said that because I just change the sensor and the car is driving fine that allow to drive 50 miles could clear the CEL if it really not a problem. Can the new cam sensor be faulty but engine still run? (m111 engine)
#57
Super Moderator
If it's the sensor, you can just replace the gasket.
However, if the connector is leaking it requires replacing the connector.
I am quite certain the process is detailed somewhere online, but I can find it.
This is what can happen....
http://web.mac.com/motorwerks/German...Leaking.html#1
But basically you have to drain the pan, drop the pan, replace the connector,
reverse the process.
If it's in the cable or TCU you'll want to pull those parts and clean them.
Damn, I cannot find that DIY anywhere! What happened to it?
However, if the connector is leaking it requires replacing the connector.
I am quite certain the process is detailed somewhere online, but I can find it.
This is what can happen....
http://web.mac.com/motorwerks/German...Leaking.html#1
But basically you have to drain the pan, drop the pan, replace the connector,
reverse the process.
If it's in the cable or TCU you'll want to pull those parts and clean them.
Damn, I cannot find that DIY anywhere! What happened to it?
#58
Super Moderator
autozone ran a scan for free and gave P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1). they won't clear the CEL but said that because I just change the sensor and the car is driving fine that allow to drive 50 miles could clear the CEL if it really not a problem. Can the new cam sensor be faulty but engine still run? (m111 engine)
P0010 = P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
#59
but would the car run normal/smooth with one of these not functioning? will a CEL clean itself after a certain # of miles? I replaced the front cam sensor due to small amount of oil seepage not a CEL or engine issue.
#60
Super Moderator
Yes - it defaults to the CPS. Cam timing wont be perfect. CELs clearing themselves is a hit & miss affair. Cancel the light/code & see if it comes back.
#62
MBWorld Fanatic!
alpha-bid.com for scanners.
I have this one. 56 bucks!
http://www.alpha-bid.com/product69.html
or this one, will work on any car, but not necessary for 2002.
http://www.alpha-bid.com/product68.html
I have this one. 56 bucks!
http://www.alpha-bid.com/product69.html
or this one, will work on any car, but not necessary for 2002.
http://www.alpha-bid.com/product68.html
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 02-23-2009 at 09:21 PM.
#63
Super Moderator
Harbour Freight are discounting that baby in the link above for 39$ - Phil just picked one up - The Johnand favourite
Cancel the code - if it comes back, which I suspect it will, you have one more sensor to replace.
Cancel the code - if it comes back, which I suspect it will, you have one more sensor to replace.
#64
is the only difference between these 2 is multi language read out?
from harbour freight
98568-0VGA
94169-3VGA
also looking at this one;
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9410-...5487743&sr=8-9
wife has a bmw 325 so looking at compatiablity issues. this one also is updatable for future cars too.
any comments
from harbour freight
98568-0VGA
94169-3VGA
also looking at this one;
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9410-...5487743&sr=8-9
wife has a bmw 325 so looking at compatiablity issues. this one also is updatable for future cars too.
any comments
Last edited by jscavo; 02-24-2009 at 10:05 AM.
#65
Super Moderator
Yes - The difference appears to be Tri lingual vs English
Updateable is nice which is one reason I have the 3130 shown above.
Updateable is nice which is one reason I have the 3130 shown above.
#67
Senior Member
In the picture that you provided you have already drained some coolant and removed the hose. Next remove the sensor on the left side. Use a screw driver or some other sharp tool and remove/break out the Brown plastic plug in the middle of the CS. After you have the plug removed you take out the 3 bolts that hold the CS to the head. Slide the CS forward off the cam and at an angle tipping down onto the nipple where the hose was that you took off. In other words the nipple is going to go through the CS hole where the plug that you removed was. Remove the bolt from the center of the camshaft and slide off the round part at the front of the Cam. Once you get that part off you can now remove the CS off the nipple and off the engine.
Reverse to put back together. Use some high temp silicon that is O2 sensor safe to seal the back of the CS.
Remember that the round part at the front of the cam that actually works inside the CS which is a magnet is Keyed. Make sure you get the key engaged when you go to tighten up the bolt at the front of the cam.
Like my post above says, if MB had spent $.50 more per car and made the Nipple threaded into the boss that it is set into the whole job would be much simpler as you would not have to even remove the front piece from the front of the camshaft.
Let me know if i can help in any other way.
Dave
Reverse to put back together. Use some high temp silicon that is O2 sensor safe to seal the back of the CS.
Remember that the round part at the front of the cam that actually works inside the CS which is a magnet is Keyed. Make sure you get the key engaged when you go to tighten up the bolt at the front of the cam.
Like my post above says, if MB had spent $.50 more per car and made the Nipple threaded into the boss that it is set into the whole job would be much simpler as you would not have to even remove the front piece from the front of the camshaft.
Let me know if i can help in any other way.
Dave
#68
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'02 CL203 M111
Thanks a lot drb930 (why b930? lol) I guess I didn't know how to read properly. The little plastic cap part was key, was it the part 111 997 01 86?
Over all the job was fairly easy and thanks again for the tip with silicone, I used sensor safe RTF high temp silicone. Letting it cure for 12h now and another 12h to go.
For the coolant I played the lazy boy and no flushing. As soon as I removed the coolant sensor, I put a plug(piece of sponge wrapped in the sealing tape) right away, so no mess or coolant loss.
Great thread
Over all the job was fairly easy and thanks again for the tip with silicone, I used sensor safe RTF high temp silicone. Letting it cure for 12h now and another 12h to go.
For the coolant I played the lazy boy and no flushing. As soon as I removed the coolant sensor, I put a plug(piece of sponge wrapped in the sealing tape) right away, so no mess or coolant loss.
Great thread
#69
Super Moderator
You'll be OK with the coolant as long as it has not been in there forever. Remember to top up with a 50/50 mixture.
#70
ok guys...im going to replace my cam sensor before i run into problems. after reading this and other threads i notice there are 2 items #'s. how do i know if i need the M111 or the M271? my car is the 2003 C230 sport sedan (6speed manual). has 66k on it and i have only had it for 1year and before i get problems with the ECU i want to 'nip this in the bud'. also i read somplace that there is more than one sensor...how do we know which one to replace? thanks for the help guys and this forum ROCKS!!!!
#71
Super Moderator
Your car should have the M271 engine. It has two front cam sensors shown in this picture which leak & the cam position sensor shown in the diagram I posted above which is on the inlet side of the engine. The M111 engine only has 1 front sensor. See pigtales attached to stop oil leaking into the harness.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 03-09-2009 at 01:31 PM.
#73
Super Moderator
Good - If your sensors are leaking - replace them - If not just fit the pigtales & watch them
#75
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c200k
Ok so I checked the plug on to cam sensor and there is a little bit of oil so have ordered a new sensor and connection. There was only a small bit of oil but how do i know if it has traveled down the wires, i followed the wire back to the back of the engine hoping to find a connector to see if there was oil on that end but couldn't find it