Glyn M Ruck

YES!!!! especially Thai

Mu9enx

haha, make sure they aren't a ladyboy!

Glyn M Ruck

Yes - Damn right - no "Kathoey" for me LOL - some are remarkably convincing !!!

TemjinX2

lol thats so wrong.

Mu9enx

lol. i agree, they are convincing enough! lol mike

TruTaing

I leave my thread for half a day and we're talking about ladyboys, lolol.

Mu9enx

sorry about the OT john!

TruTaing

Its been a bit since I've updated my thread...

This past Sunday, I installed Eibach springs + a 17mm spring pad + Koni yellows in the rear of my car. I decided to swap out the tein basics in the rear because they were causing me lots of problems and have been causing me problems since summer time... I will save this for another thread, but I need some info on how tight the bolts need to be in the rear suspension. Now my ride height is about right - that is two fingers space in the rear and about one fingers space in the front between the top of the tire and the top of the wheel well. I dont think it looks as good as it use to, and might consider using a thinner pad, but I will wait for a bit and let it settle in some.

Specifically the bolt that holds the bottom of the rear shocks to the controls arm. I think I may have over tightened them and now my rear suspension squeaks from there. Any suggestions for this would be great.

Lots of stuff on hold right now with the car cuz its just been a really crazy time. Hopefully, I will have updates with VRP headers and LET tune soon.

I will probably start working on my intake manifold soon too!

Mu9enx

still speechless!

B189s

You're going to need thinner pads for sure, it won't settle much and you won't even notice it. I used to have Eibach springs in my car and the rears were still high with pad #4

What problems did you get from the Tein BTW?

Glyn M Ruck

And remember - don't go too low on the back. Keep the nose of the car down. I know I'm like a stuck record Tru - but there are so many cars on the forum with the back too low for decent handling.

TruTaing

I know glyn. Ive been trying to raise the rear to a more acceptable height for quite some time.... Just my teins have sucked. When i am done w/ all of figuring out whats going on w/ my rear suspension - I will post. Im sure along w/ a few others who have had issues w/ the tein basic rear suspension. And in all honesty... two fingers space is not much, but it seems MASSIVE in comparison to the tucked look I had... I would much rather just have space for one finger, ya know?

For now, What are the torque specs for the rear bolts on the bottom of the shocks where they connect to the lower control arm?

Glyn M Ruck

I've been looking for you all day & I can't find. I will keep looking or I'll PM splinter. He will have it.

Glyn M Ruck

Yeah I know - I posted more for Nibo's sake.

TemjinX2

yeah i had some issues with the tein basics when i had my honda. The rear shocks of the basics doesn't seem to offer enough damper for the stiffness of the springs. I remember my rears were bouncy as hell even though it was only lower down to 1.5fingers in the rear.

I had much better experience with koni shocks and gc coil overs. I'm running d2 coilovers and an more then satisfied with there daily driving and handling performance. Good luck on the rear issue.

Utahkompressor

Questions about the AMG brakes:
Is it directly bolt-on or need modification?
What year is your car?

Glyn M Ruck

Phoned a buddy who maintains should be 24 Nm. I'm not sure whether to believe this. Try & confirm with a Merc manual.

splinter

Good choice going with Koni. They are excellent. Too bad they’re not externally adjustable – with a knob on top – like their struts. It’s very convenient when preparing for weekend cruises. Sure you’ll get the hang of R&R’ing them to establish your preferred settings. The lower mount tube is to remain stationary within the lower suspension arm/link. Its captive rubber bushing is to allow for the angularity changes encountered during suspension travel.

Much discussion about ride height and rake. At least raising the rear should help bring your camber closer to specification - and hopefully extend tire life. Would you kindly share a side profile picture when you get a chance?

M-B revised their initial damper mounting torque specification upward to address just such an issue.
Hope that gets it squared away.

Glyn M Ruck

Oh! thanks splinter - The 24Nm came out of some aftermarket workshop manual & I thought it sounded a bit "light" - I've had incorrect torque settings (or out of date ones) from such manuals before - I'm pleased Tru now has it from the horses mouth - so to speak. He's had enough drama with his rear end (also, so to speak)

TruTaing

I was going through this crazy underground parking area and there was just randomly a curb sticking out in the middle of no where... clipped my rear passenger side wheel and now Ive got a nasty rash on my wheel.. Wasnt too happy about this, but was willing to live with it...

The Seattle weather was crazy today. Sunshine, snow, hail, and rain all in one day. On my drive home I was sleepy and half heartily driving. I usually speed up past semis so I minimize my time spent driving behind/next to them and I proceeded to do so right before my exit to get home off of 405... We're on a bridge, the temps are low and the semi is ahead of me in the right lane adjacent to me.

I start to accelerate to pass the semi.
The semi suddenly slips... swerving into my lane...
I change into the semi's lane while going lightly on the brakes.
My rear end pulls out behind me further to the right. I'm wide awake now.
Both hands at 10 & 2.
Very light on the brakes... Still sliding but starting to straighten out...
The car is straight, no wait... the car's rear end is now sliding to the left.. towards the semi truck... the whole car is sliding that way... 50mph....
Car is wayy out to the left... slightly counter steer... while staying lightly on the brakes... car starts to straighten out again... 40mph... the car is now out to the right... *** towards the median and sliding...
Proceed to stay lightly on the brakes.... counter steer a bit more...
Car straightens out and stops sliding... Im off the bridge... 30mph....

Im alive. I did not for one moment notice the esp on, but I could FEEL it taking over on the braking to help straighten out the car..

I will more than live w/ the curb rash today.

Reminder to self: Bridges are especially slippery when temps are low. (cold air under and over == slower to raise temps). Semis are scary all the time!

Headers get installed on Monday. I could probably do it myself, but Im paranoid of exhaust leaks melting things :x

Thankful to be alive.

FrankW

ouch...sux to hear that. at least you're a-okay.

my dad took out the 204 the other day and rashed the driver side front wheel too and took a chunk of the tire sidewall off. Now I gotta fix the rim for like $100 and then $280 for one insanely expensive tire.

on top of that waiting for K1 to get my Hawk pads in so I can pick up the pads and front rotor rings for the 203. That's another $650 go ka-boom!...

spyderpig

Daing so sorry to hear that man.
really sucks, but good thing you are alive.

B189s

That sucks, hate curb rashes

Glyn M Ruck

Tru - this is alarming!! Thank heavens you are OK - Look after yourself man - we need no more close shaves. A good wheel shop can fix the rash.

It's amazing how we remember every action in slow motion when the adrenalin is flowing. I remember my first winter in Dallas. This idiot from South Africa that has never experienced road icing in his life is proceeding down the Beltline in a hired V6 Nissan & hits ice on an intersection with a red light against me - no chance of stopping. Myself & a lady in a Camry slid past one another, miraculously without making contact - Got a BIG fright & the details of the incident have never left me. I think my heart rate exceeded 180.

Sounds like common sense on your behalf (A rarity these days) & the Benz electronics helped.

Wow - no more frights

splinter

Dang!! Thankful you’re okay.