"Learning in recirculated air flap" Air flap reset procedure M111
#1
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"Learning in recirculated air flap" Air flap reset procedure M111
Ed, I finally found it!
It was on the CD, under
Repair and Maint
Engines
ME Fuel Injection Ignition System
Engine Diagnosis light in instrument cluster comes on
That document has a lot of info regarding faulty wiring harnesses and the fixes, but one of the possible fixes is reseting the the Air flap.
Thats the thing on the drivers side, front of the car, that the air filter box attaches to. When the engine is cold, it stays closed for about the 1st 30-60 seconds. Mine never seems to open fully, so I'm thinkin' it needs a reset.
It can be related to P2036 P0410 P203A.
"Malfunction in secondary air injection
actuation chain."
Damn, it took me hours(!) to find this....
So, where the "Limp home position" ? (help! :0 )
If it's like anything else on our cars, not doing a periodic reset is likely a bad thing.
AF07.61-P-2000-01A Learning in recirculated air flap actuator
ENGINE 111.981 in MODEL 203.747
1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limp home
position.
90° position must be changed manually. The processor
shut-off delay has a duration of approx. 5 seconds.
2.Switch on ignition for approx. 15 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
3. Switch ignition on for approx. 45 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
The learn-in procedure for the recirculated air flap is then
completed.
It was on the CD, under
Repair and Maint
Engines
ME Fuel Injection Ignition System
Engine Diagnosis light in instrument cluster comes on
That document has a lot of info regarding faulty wiring harnesses and the fixes, but one of the possible fixes is reseting the the Air flap.
Thats the thing on the drivers side, front of the car, that the air filter box attaches to. When the engine is cold, it stays closed for about the 1st 30-60 seconds. Mine never seems to open fully, so I'm thinkin' it needs a reset.
It can be related to P2036 P0410 P203A.
"Malfunction in secondary air injection
actuation chain."
Damn, it took me hours(!) to find this....
So, where the "Limp home position" ? (help! :0 )
If it's like anything else on our cars, not doing a periodic reset is likely a bad thing.
AF07.61-P-2000-01A Learning in recirculated air flap actuator
ENGINE 111.981 in MODEL 203.747
1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limp home
position.
90° position must be changed manually. The processor
shut-off delay has a duration of approx. 5 seconds.
2.Switch on ignition for approx. 15 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
3. Switch ignition on for approx. 45 seconds, switch ignition
back off again and wait for processor shut-off delay.
The learn-in procedure for the recirculated air flap is then
completed.
#4
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Thread Starter
I read nearly the whole DVD, (as it applies to my model) and nothing on
what how limp home mode effects the flap.
Lots of other good stuff though!
G'night.
what how limp home mode effects the flap.
Lots of other good stuff though!
G'night.
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Excellent. How I found it on Splinters disk I don't know.
I was working a trade show for work all weekend. When I got home last nite, I was exhausted. I had you on my to do list for today.
Once you reset it, let me know if you feel the differance. I did.
To answer you question about S/C porting, I did not get a CEL from the Port job. It was unrelated, but I did run lean until the ECU learned to adapt to the increase in air.
Given that you have the header, I say do it!
Steig seems to want our business. They mostly do the Eaton's on mustangs and the cobalt, minis. No MB business. So maybe, if you offer a great DIY for the forum they have, they might give you a discount or something.
Worth a shot.
Ed
I was working a trade show for work all weekend. When I got home last nite, I was exhausted. I had you on my to do list for today.
Once you reset it, let me know if you feel the differance. I did.
To answer you question about S/C porting, I did not get a CEL from the Port job. It was unrelated, but I did run lean until the ECU learned to adapt to the increase in air.
Given that you have the header, I say do it!
Steig seems to want our business. They mostly do the Eaton's on mustangs and the cobalt, minis. No MB business. So maybe, if you offer a great DIY for the forum they have, they might give you a discount or something.
Worth a shot.
Ed
#7
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#8
Super Member
It's great, with the KN filter I have, it sounds like a monster.... But I haven't really taken the car out, only in my back alley. Since it's winter and I still have school, I didn't insure the car, but ask me again in 2 weeks when I insure my car and I'll let you know then. On the few runs I did in the alley, I can feel the increase in power.
Dion
Dion
#9
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Thread Starter
"1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limp home
position. "
Ed, Whats the starting position? You're the only one who's ever done this...
I tried to move it once before, it seemed like it's stuck pretty good...
anything you can do to elaborate a little would be cool.
Ha, I sat and read the whole damn DVD yesterday, found lots of great stuff. This was HIGHLY buried.
position. "
Ed, Whats the starting position? You're the only one who's ever done this...
I tried to move it once before, it seemed like it's stuck pretty good...
anything you can do to elaborate a little would be cool.
Ha, I sat and read the whole damn DVD yesterday, found lots of great stuff. This was HIGHLY buried.
Excellent. How I found it on Splinters disk I don't know.
I was working a trade show for work all weekend. When I got home last nite, I was exhausted. I had you on my to do list for today.
Once you reset it, let me know if you feel the differance. I did.
To answer you question about S/C porting, I did not get a CEL from the Port job. It was unrelated, but I did run lean until the ECU learned to adapt to the increase in air.
Given that you have the header, I say do it!
Steig seems to want our business. They mostly do the Eaton's on mustangs and the cobalt, minis. No MB business. So maybe, if you offer a great DIY for the forum they have, they might give you a discount or something.
Worth a shot.
Ed
I was working a trade show for work all weekend. When I got home last nite, I was exhausted. I had you on my to do list for today.
Once you reset it, let me know if you feel the differance. I did.
To answer you question about S/C porting, I did not get a CEL from the Port job. It was unrelated, but I did run lean until the ECU learned to adapt to the increase in air.
Given that you have the header, I say do it!
Steig seems to want our business. They mostly do the Eaton's on mustangs and the cobalt, minis. No MB business. So maybe, if you offer a great DIY for the forum they have, they might give you a discount or something.
Worth a shot.
Ed
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
"1 When ignition is switched off press flap slightly past limp home
position. "
Ed, Whats the starting position? You're the only one who's ever done this...
I tried to move it once before, it seemed like it's stuck pretty good...
anything you can do to elaborate a little would be cool.
Ha, I sat and read the whole damn DVD yesterday, found lots of great stuff. This was HIGHLY buried.
position. "
Ed, Whats the starting position? You're the only one who's ever done this...
I tried to move it once before, it seemed like it's stuck pretty good...
anything you can do to elaborate a little would be cool.
Ha, I sat and read the whole damn DVD yesterday, found lots of great stuff. This was HIGHLY buried.
E
#12
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Thread Starter
c'mon ed, you've done this..
somebody throw me a freakin' bone.
Need the info....
somebody throw me a freakin' bone.
Need the info....
#13
Hey Guys,
I actually did this, and wow I am not kidding what a difference. My car has been going into limp mode (reduced power) for the last month, and I usually wait until the check engine light to come on for me to clear it or actually trip the ECU on purpose to clear it to get the car out of limp mode. But this time when it was in limp mode I actually did this reset and the car is behaving like a monster again. THANKS and THANKS AGAIN !!!
P.S. On the second step during the 45 seconds wait, you can actually see the flap close up automatically and then open up again - pretty much resetting itself.
I actually did this, and wow I am not kidding what a difference. My car has been going into limp mode (reduced power) for the last month, and I usually wait until the check engine light to come on for me to clear it or actually trip the ECU on purpose to clear it to get the car out of limp mode. But this time when it was in limp mode I actually did this reset and the car is behaving like a monster again. THANKS and THANKS AGAIN !!!
P.S. On the second step during the 45 seconds wait, you can actually see the flap close up automatically and then open up again - pretty much resetting itself.
#15
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'02 CL203 M111
Just noticed that under the part that attaches to the air box makessome noise like a hard drive accessing data once I turn the key to position 2.
Is that normal?
Oh and The flap in my car was fully opened when the ignition was off...
Is that normal?
Oh and The flap in my car was fully opened when the ignition was off...
#16
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Brabus K3
So we are suposed to try to close the flap?
Thanks.
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'02 CL203 M111
#18
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This is getting rediculous.
Whats the starting position?
Somebody sell me a vowel for god sakes!
I think I got it...
"90° position must be changed manually"
So, that means, push it, hard apparently according to E,
and knock it about 20 degrees off Kilter from straight up, and do the thang...
can't wait to try it tomorrow.
Whats the starting position?
Somebody sell me a vowel for god sakes!
I think I got it...
"90° position must be changed manually"
So, that means, push it, hard apparently according to E,
and knock it about 20 degrees off Kilter from straight up, and do the thang...
can't wait to try it tomorrow.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 04-08-2008 at 04:36 AM.
#19
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Thread Starter
It's great, with the KN filter I have, it sounds like a monster.... But I haven't really taken the car out, only in my back alley. Since it's winter and I still have school, I didn't insure the car, but ask me again in 2 weeks when I insure my car and I'll let you know then. On the few runs I did in the alley, I can feel the increase in power.
Dion
Dion
I likely sending mine for a rebuild sometime soon, along with the alt,
just for preventative maint, so thats why I ask.
Mini Couper forums with ported M45's stated 18psi in case you wondered.
What was it stock?
I think with pulley it 11 psi vs. 7 psi stock. (M111)
#20
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'02 CL203 M111
This is getting rediculous.
Whats the starting position?
Somebody sell me a vowel for god sakes!
I think I got it...
"90° position must be changed manually"
So, that means, push it, hard apparently according to E,
and knock it about 20 degrees off Kilter from straight up, and do the thang...
can't wait to try it tomorrow.
Whats the starting position?
Somebody sell me a vowel for god sakes!
I think I got it...
"90° position must be changed manually"
So, that means, push it, hard apparently according to E,
and knock it about 20 degrees off Kilter from straight up, and do the thang...
can't wait to try it tomorrow.
let me know.
#21
I actually just closed the flap a couple of times, and because its springloaded it goes back to its open position, and then I moved to step 2, which was the ignition part. You'll know when its working as an actual noise comes out of the valve, and on the third step (which is the second time you turn on the ignition) my flap actually closed on its own and then opened, telling me that in fact it actually resetted itself.
As i said I actually did this on my car and it did wonders - let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
#22
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Brabus K3
I actually just closed the flap a couple of times, and because its springloaded it goes back to its open position, and then I moved to step 2, which was the ignition part. You'll know when its working as an actual noise comes out of the valve, and on the third step (which is the second time you turn on the ignition) my flap actually closed on its own and then opened, telling me that in fact it actually resetted itself.
As i said I actually did this on my car and it did wonders - let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
As i said I actually did this on my car and it did wonders - let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks
The key is to know the exact start position so the calibration is better.
#24
Super Member
Do you worry at all about blowing out the rings at 18 PSI ?
I likely sending mine for a rebuild sometime soon, along with the alt,
just for preventative maint, so thats why I ask.
Mini Couper forums with ported M45's stated 18psi in case you wondered.
What was it stock?
I think with pulley it 11 psi vs. 7 psi stock. (M111)
I likely sending mine for a rebuild sometime soon, along with the alt,
just for preventative maint, so thats why I ask.
Mini Couper forums with ported M45's stated 18psi in case you wondered.
What was it stock?
I think with pulley it 11 psi vs. 7 psi stock. (M111)
If you are worried, I think you should talk to Ed, he's had the ported SC on his car far longer than me and should be more knowledgable on the subject.
Last edited by DACHIGGA; 04-09-2008 at 01:59 PM.
#25
Super Member
Do you worry at all about blowing out the rings at 18 PSI ?
I likely sending mine for a rebuild sometime soon, along with the alt,
just for preventative maint, so thats why I ask.
Mini Couper forums with ported M45's stated 18psi in case you wondered.
What was it stock?
I think with pulley it 11 psi vs. 7 psi stock. (M111)
I likely sending mine for a rebuild sometime soon, along with the alt,
just for preventative maint, so thats why I ask.
Mini Couper forums with ported M45's stated 18psi in case you wondered.
What was it stock?
I think with pulley it 11 psi vs. 7 psi stock. (M111)
Dion