georgiuzunov

So I'm stumbled upon a weird situation.

600 miles ago I did a drain and fill service on my 2011 E350.

Transmission fluid that came out was dark, definitely not blue in color and the new fluid I put in was BLUE (as it should be I have A089 code).

Car was sitting overnight I drained ~4.5 liters out, followed all the procedures, put 7 liters in, warmed up the tranny to 45c, drained the excess roughly 2.5 liters, so my math here works fine.

Car overall shifts much better and is much more responsive, the last transmission change was at 55k I'm at 96k at the moment.

The weird part comes out for example when I drive around, go to the grocery store (car is sitting out for 10-15 minutes), jump back in, I get a rough 2nd to 3rd (car starts in 2nd in Comfort or "E" mode) and a rough 3-4, I get it once or twice and then its dead smooth again. I have no codes for conductor plate or anything transmission related. Car runs fine other than those two hiccups.

I use MaxiSYS MS906BT to troubleshoot my vehicles for codes.

I'm curios of I do another drain and fill will that remedy the sit for 10-15 minutes situation? Is this something that's kinda normal for this transmission?

WDDHF5GB2BA470460

m276Enthusiast

Need to reset adaptation values and relearn transmission torque and 1-2 2-3 3-4 4-5 and so on shifts. It makes a huge difference if all procedures are completed.

also, if you used oem or pentosin fluid, you will see shifting like that without any changes even if you do procedures properly. Not a big fan of these fluids, as the market has better options.

georgiuzunov

I did use the pentosin atf 134 fe fluid what's the issue with that?

Also, how do I reset the adaptation is that done only with a Star Diagnostic tool?

OldManAndHisCar

Is that not the hold the pedal down trick????

georgiuzunov

That does absolutely nothing for the adaptation of the tranny

Check this video:

georgiuzunov

I was just checking my MaxiSYS MS906BT and I have a lot of options to brake my car

So far what I've noticed is that the more I drive the car - the smoother it gets, so I guess the car is adjusting/learning/settings it's values, I doubt they're a constant.

Would just driving it around more make it make the adaptation on it's own?

georgiuzunov

Does anyone know if I just reset the adaptation values what will happen? I guess the car will have to learn it's shift points from scratch on it own, will that be an issue?

Do I have to make adaptations - 2-3, 3-4,4-5,5-6,6-7 after that or that's optional?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I use the Pentosin ATF 134FE on both my cars and have never had a problem. As a matter of fact, I had the local Mercedes dealer do my last change, and I provided the parts and fluids. The tech said the Pentosin is what they use there. When you were waiting for the fluid to warm up, was the car off the ground and did you manually shift through all the gears and reverse?

I'm not sure what Resetting the Adaptation Values will do when using the Autel. I did it once on my 2004 SL500 using DAS (predecessor to XENTRY for older cars) and it shifted really rough until it readapted everything. I would give it a few more drive cycles to see if things smooth out. However, I don't know why changing the fluid would cause this.

georgiuzunov

Hi JettaRed!

Pentosin are rebranded Fuchs in the US, before I moved to the US I used their fluids in all my cars and had no issues at all, they're supposed to be quality fluids.

I used a 4 post lift so the car was in the air with my wife inside and yes - she was going trough Park, Neutral, Drive, Reverse, we did maybe 10 times between 28C and 45C when I pulled the plug and drained the excess of the fluid.

How long did it take do adapt when you reset your 2004 SL500?

I'm leaning towards "driving the car around until it learns it has new fluid", but I'm seriously weirded by the fact that it's doing it. I've drained/filled the ATF on few different vehicles I've owned and never had this happen to me and was really, really, REALLY careful following the procedure, so I'm quite sure the ATF is at the correct level. Everything is torqued to spec, etc, even got a new pan for the laughs and giggles (updated 1:1 with the one I got off the car), transferred the magnets, etc, new MB filter... I'll leave it as a characteristic of the transmission.

I was also leaning towards draining the fluid and doing another flush in 400 miles, so I would have 1000 miles with this one and see how it goes.

Any other input is welcomed guys!

CaliBenzDriver

you are spot on @OldManAndHisCar
that procedure worked a treat to retrain shift points on my 722.9.

CaliBenzDriver

what you describe I understand being caused by engine extreme heatsoak impacting tranny ATF viscosity.
Nothing wrong with your 722.9.
Tranny service is now completed until next 40kMi.
​​​​​​

trigital

Why you drained only 4,5 liters? The torque converter doesn't had the drain screw?

georgiuzunov

Any way I can remedy this? I wouldn't say temps are "extreme" these days in Kansas - mid to high 80s?

Edit: I forgot to mention that if I leave the vehicle overnight - it doesn't do it. If I leave it for couple of hours doesn't do it.

The time period it does it is between 10min - 1 hour of sitting. Roughest for the first 10 - 15 min, so it does fit with the heatsoak.

I'll be servicing water pump, thermostat, new coolant, new pulleys, aux belt soon... stupid questions @CaliBenzDriver, but would that help?

georgiuzunov

Couldn't find the torque converter drain on mine, didn't see the service port, so I didn't bother with that.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

@georgiuzunov Not all the TQs have a drain plug. I'm a little concerned that the old fluid was dark. Dark like motor oil? Or just darker than fresh/new fluid?

When you replaced the pan and filter, where did you source your parts? Do you have the part numbers you can share? There was a design change for 2012+ models requiring a deeper pan and larger filter. Just want to check that you have the correct filter. More info here:

Mercedes 722.9 Filter Upgrade Kit - FUCHS 001989680310 | FCP Euro

georgiuzunov

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...pan-2222700512 - pan + drain plug and metal o-ring
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ing-2202710380 - pan gasket
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...a89-2222772000 - filter
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...g-0049903512kt - bolts
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...lug-2222710097 - overflow
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pentosin...h/1089117~pts/ - transmission fluid

Fluid was dark, but not dark as motor oil, definitely not blue in color, night and day difference with new fluid color wise, didn't smell burnt, smelled like ATF, plenty of particles in old fluid, but nothing major, magnets were replaced with old ones in the same location, old magnets didn't have a lot of material on them but some.

I think I still have the bucket I drained the excess fluid, with some in the bottom I can post a picture later on today.

I initially had ordered the Rein pan but I didn't like the quality so I ordered the MB one. Finish was different than the original, drain bolt was different than the original, I weighted both of them and the Rein was lighter than the original so I decided not to use it.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

You may find this video interesting at around 13 minutes when he starts draining the transmission cooler. The color of the old fluid is definitely dark compared to the new blue fluid. Is this what you experienced?

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

These all look correct with no mismatched parts.

By the way, it took about a day of mixed city and highway driving the SL500 for the transmission to settle down.

georgiuzunov

Exactly the same color, I was a bit scared at first, but checked multiple videos and they all looked the same...

georgiuzunov

The more I drive it around, the better the shifts, I think the transmission is just adapting to the new fluid. Again this is my first "adaptive transmission", newest car I've changed the tranny fluid on and definitely a lot more stuff in here...