Hi all,
I'm getting my Kleemann K23 power alloy kit this Friday (hopefully) and wanted to go ahead and do necessary fuel settings change. I wanted to clarify what I'm suppose to change. I've heard that you can change stage I, stage II, stage III? is that for octane (87, 89, 91+) or is that for amount of fuel (for richer A/F ratio)? I live in Texas and 93 octane is regular premium gas here (I can get 105 unleaded Sunoco very easy as well). Are there two different things to change on the Star Diagnostic (thats the name of machine right?) for octane and A/F ratio or this stage I, II, III stuff will do the trick? Also I figure might as well change the speed sensitivity of my Audio10 CD unit (I have/had BOSE). I understand there are 2,4,or 6db sensitivity. Is that the lower the number less sensitive or more sensitive. Thanks all and if I am not too broke will get a dyno run after install of pulleys so we can all see the difference.

You should set the fuel quantity to stage 2. This is different from the octane setting. Just leave those settings alone, and continue using 93 octane. That is probably your best setup.

Thanks for the info Matt. How about the audio speed sensitivity setting? any idea (I want it less sensitive)? Also, whats a good excuse to tell an MB dealer on why u want to change fuel quantity setting to stage II (my MB dealer is kinda strict with these things)? thanks all.

I've never messed with the audio, so I don't know about that. I guess excuses depend on how willing your dealer is to do the change. It would be hard to convince them of any other logical reason why you would need to make that change. I work for my dealer, so I just grabbed the computer and figured it out myself. I don't think they would change it for anyone else though.

How about I am planning to take my vehicle to high altitutude region (thinner air = leaner?) and I was recommended to get my fuel settings changed to stage II. also if I know the exact Star Diag. screen it would help. Thanks for any input guys (other than its your car u demand it for the change comment....yeah wish it was that easy )

What am I missing here?
Its my car! The fact that there are ALTERNATIVE settings available seems to tell me that I should be able to choose how I wish my car configured. I can understand maybe paying to make the changes, but I don't understand denying my request to make them.

Wheens did u read my post???

Those reasons might work. I would try the first one first before you demand it be changed because it's your car. But really, they should change those things however you want them to. I don't know if they really have to or not, but a lot of dealers resist. I guess they think they will get in trouble somehow for doing it.

No I didn't see it. It was posted while I was writing my thoughts. I still want to know why, if its my car, I can't have the dealer configure it how I want. I'm talking ONLY about settings that are available to him, not about any "aftermarket" installations or adjustments.

The "I'm going to the mountains" excuse is incorrect. Stage 2 will make the fuel mixture richer, which is the opposite of what you need for higher altitude. Also, the ECU has the ability to compensate for higher altitudes built in to it.

The settings for the speed sensitive volume controls are 0 db, -3 db, -6 db and -9 db. 0 db is no change, -9 db is the maximum change and -6 db is the default setting.

I also asked many dealers around SF bay area as well using numerous possible reasons. They all said "NO." And their response for "It's my car" was that if there is anything happen to the engine they will not offer warranty repair, that's essentially void the warranty on the engine.

This was 2 months ago though, the story might have changed.

I'll buy C230Jeff's comments about it being driven by US govt. regs, I guess. It makes sense that a car sold worldwide might have different A/F settings built into the ECU.

BUT, if Stage 2 is more rich than Stage1, its hard to see where running "more rich" than "more lean" would cause any engine damage. Crappier gas milage certainly, but not premature engine damage.

I guess if all dealers are updating their software, it will not be possible to make changes in the future or to revert back to stage 1 when my lease is up. I was planning on removing the pulley and changing back to stage 1, since I have access to a DAS computer. But I guess I won't even be able to do that.

all my dealers said they would never think of changing my fuel settings.

how many people here with a Pulley upgrade floor there car alot and race? I am planning on it when i get my pulley since thats what i do now. And i will have no choice but to leave the settings on stage 1.

I would say that you and those with autos floor their car more often to keep it in the lowest possible gear. But for me, with a 6spd, I hardly ever have to floor it because I can choose the gears. Only several times have I pushed hard enough to push the little kickdown button, which I know does nothing on a manual.

I assume the more gas you give it, the faster you go, but it does not seem necessary with a manual. I don't know the reasoning behind this though.

Okay it seems like I'm going to have to run my pulley setup with stage I (unless some miracle happen and I get my dealer to change fuel settings). Second is that what are the possible problems I will run into running the pulley kit with stage I (somewhat lean or is that even been proven yet?). I have a stock dyno of my car with A/F ratio chart (figure it would come in handy when I get the pulley kit). At what point does it become 'unsafely' lean?

I think running lean makes more heat in the cylinder and the heat can cause failures of many internal engine parts. So I wouldn't think short bursts of WOT would be that bad, as long as you give it time to cool off. But that's about the extent of my knowledge on this subject.

from my understanding the main 2 problems are: 1. Detonation 2. Pre-Ignition.

I am planing on going to the track sometime when i get my pulley, i hope that amount of WOT does not do any harm. Or kleemann told me one the phone that the ECU will adjust timing and not let anything happen. But i am not so sure if thats 100% true.

The WOT lean condition can be seen in some of the dyno pulls Buell posted. Power begins to fall off at the high RPM - this is from the engine detecting some problem and retarding the timing. There is probably not much damage occuring during this lean condition due to this correction. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that the lean condition is detected by the other sensors and the timing retardation occurs before any "knock" (which is what can cause the worst damage) actually occurs (there is also a sensor that can detect knock if it is occuring as well). Also, part of the reason for changing the fuel setting is to get full maximization of the power gain acheived by adding the pulley (some of which is otherwise lost at high RPM).

- BT

the intercooler has nothing to do with how lean/rich the car runs.