ROLLNNN

Thanks Carlos. Its really hard to find the folding mirrors for our cars. YOu might want to try and contact Steve here: http://www.mbenznl.nl/ I believe he might be able to help you out. Im not sure where else to look...

carlosfernandez

Ok I already know Steve and he is the best! Around how much you expend on that protect ??

ROLLNNN

I got lucky and found them used from a c55 that was parting out. I bought them for around $500, then added the passenger side door control module for around $150, did the installation myself. You'll probably spend a tad bit more....

FreshVibes

Wow, great thread! I don't even know how long I spent looking through all 44 pages.. She's lookin' super sweet!

ROLLNNN

Thanks man!

tommy

Here's what I can think of:
you can play with spacers without having to worry about needing different sized bolts each time
don't have to think about bolts for the spare anymore
look better
easier to find universal replacement if you lose a lug nut vs. a lug bolt
I don't have to keep one set of bolts for my winter rims and one for my summer rims

Overall, I think it's worth the time and money to switch over.

maverik259

so what did you have to do? replace the whole hub? what does that run? sounds crazy expensive

tommy

Buy studs, twist on, tighten them, buy super cool lug nuts, install rims and nuts, admire your work. Mmmmm!

The ones I have were $105.

http://www.rogueengineering.com/rogue/W-Stud/WSTUD.html

ROLLNNN

what lug nuts are you using with those studs?

maverik259

haha thats all it takes?! nice...

Those seem long as crap! and wtf is the diff b/n "street/track" and "race" lol

maverik259

hey rolll i meant to ask you, do you remember what size end link we run (10/12mm) for your front sway? I cant seem to find it on here

tommy

Unfortunately, I'm limited, as my OZ summer rims are ball seats, so I'm using Honda OEM open-ended ball seat nuts, which sucks. On the positive side, I don't have to have a separate set of lug nuts for my OEM C7 winter rims. But I'd love to have some titanium or burnin' blue lug nuts - sadly, they're all conical.

ROLLNNN

off the top of my head, i cant remember... ill see if i can find it somewhere...

ROLLNNN

yeah burning blue look good. Phi just picked up a set.

Have you heard of the speedstar racing washers that you run with ball seat lugs, they turn them into conical seat. I hear the honda guys use them. I dont know much about them though...

tommy

Yes, I've seen them talked about on the Honda forums for years. I've had my crx since 1996, but have never had first-hand knowledge. I've heard of them not being able to be tightened as well, they have to be placed exactly right to be correct, and other issues. It's not really something I think I should be *******g with.

Cannot for the life of me understand why some aftermarket companies have not gone with ballseats, esp. since there are so many ball seat rims out there, esp. Honda / HPD rims would be able to use 'em.

ROLLNNN

yeah i dont understand it either, they would make so much money selling ball seat tuner lugs....

i wouldnt mess with the washers either, if they haven't been proven...

maverik259

so whats the difference between the street and racing versions? and whtas the purpose of that smooth tip on the street version?

phister

05+ use 12mm for the sway bars if I remember correctly.

phister

The difference between the street and race on the studs is that the race are zinc coated in black and are made of a different material to handle the high stress of racing. The smooth top is just a design look to make the studs look like OEM and allows full threading on the studs unlike some of the race versions. You'll just put two lugs on and tighten it down to apply them instead of using the allen wrench. I got my studs from motorsports hardware. Came with lugs too but I bought my burning blue ones. All just preference and price on what studs you want. Just remember to use good locite and torque them to 25-30lbs and let them sit and cure.

tommy

It's the special "reservoir tip".

The benefit of the difference in the street tip is that you can curb them and still remove the lugnuts afterwards, as the threads will not be damaged (assuming that you'll still be able to slide them over the tip). On the race versions, you can't do that; however, you would be able to run your wheels out further on the ends of the race versions.

ROLLNNN's right about the installation differences. Of course, on my car, the a-holes who had previously installed my summer rims and tires had ovetightened them with air tools, so I couldn't remove the stock lugbolts. Luckily, Rogue is 3 miles down from where I work, and they were nice enough to install them there. I asked, and they did do the double lugnut version of tightening them on, btw - it's just quicker when you have the right tools at hand.

maverik259

ya its alwasy best with the right tools...and just found out my buddy had a whole set on his bimmer and took them off because they were a lil too long for his liking...they're 80mm it looked like when i quickly through a ruler at em and the ones on that website are 75 it seemed, do yours stick out at all from the nut rollll?

ROLLNNN

mine dont stick out because my studs aren't the extended ones. But i'm thinking about getting them. I know Charlie's (coupecrazy) stick out, he has the 80mm studs....

maverik259

ok cool good to know...and why would you want them to stick out brosef?

antzalaf

I plan on getting my windshield tinted tomorrow or saturday and my w203 has 15% on all other windows.. should I go with 55% or 35%? those are the two percentages they told me they recommend on a windshield

ROLLNNN

mainly looks, but its also good to know that the lug nuts have that many more turns on them to keep them tight...