DIY - Fuel Filter Replacement
#176
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Central Virginia, USA
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
2006 C230 Sport
All gas w203 I believe use this filter besides the 07 MY as they use in tank filters that you can't replace. Before you order you could always take a look under the car you don't have to take anything off to see if it is outside the tank in the normal location.
I got mine from Amazon Warehouse deals as they are returnable and you can save usually close to 50% or more on many car parts. I have gotten $43 pads for under 20, $18 filter for $10, $80 each rotor for $16.05 each. All the parts are good brands too Mann, Bosch, Akebono, ACDelco. Also since you said you have a kid going to college soon if you don't have amazon prime yet if they have a .edu email yet you get prime discounted for 4 years which makes shipping the parts free! And if they come and are not up to your standards free shipping back! They shipped two sets of front rotors from Nevada to Virginia 2nd day air lol they arrived in destroyed shipping boxes but both sets looked brand new
I got mine from Amazon Warehouse deals as they are returnable and you can save usually close to 50% or more on many car parts. I have gotten $43 pads for under 20, $18 filter for $10, $80 each rotor for $16.05 each. All the parts are good brands too Mann, Bosch, Akebono, ACDelco. Also since you said you have a kid going to college soon if you don't have amazon prime yet if they have a .edu email yet you get prime discounted for 4 years which makes shipping the parts free! And if they come and are not up to your standards free shipping back! They shipped two sets of front rotors from Nevada to Virginia 2nd day air lol they arrived in destroyed shipping boxes but both sets looked brand new
You've pointed me to a new favorite place to visit for car parts.
Thank you.
#177
Junior Member
I just did the Fuel Filter change on my wife's C240 Wagon.
I have a couple of things to add:
1. I used a Mann filter and it looks exactly like OEM. Never had a problem with this brand ever.
2. No need to completely remove the pan on the car. Simply remove the rear 5-6 nuts and it will arc down enough to touch the ground and have plenty of room for the filter removal.
3. The screw for the clamp on this car was T25, not T20.
4. I only clamped the "Tank" line and only minimal fuel came out of the other lines. The filter was full of fuel, though.
5. The tank line was the biggest of the 4. I could not get a 13-15mm clamp on that line.
6. I wish I had something like this for the job from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
I have a couple of things to add:
1. I used a Mann filter and it looks exactly like OEM. Never had a problem with this brand ever.
2. No need to completely remove the pan on the car. Simply remove the rear 5-6 nuts and it will arc down enough to touch the ground and have plenty of room for the filter removal.
3. The screw for the clamp on this car was T25, not T20.
4. I only clamped the "Tank" line and only minimal fuel came out of the other lines. The filter was full of fuel, though.
5. The tank line was the biggest of the 4. I could not get a 13-15mm clamp on that line.
6. I wish I had something like this for the job from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
#179
Super Moderator
Not 100% sure but doubt that it is any different. Check PN to see if it is the same filter then just climb underneath and see if the filter is in the same spot.
#180
MBWorld Fanatic!
Just did mine for the 3rd or 4th time.
1. Mann is good, made in Germany!
2. You don't need to remove the pan, or even 5-56 nuts. Just remove the one, and prop it open with a screwdriver!
3. You are correct T25 !
4. Do one line at a time no need to clamp the hoses. You might damage them, and also you won't get confused.
Be sure to put a pan down to collect the spilled fuel, wear safety glasses, and stay away from people with lit cigarettes, don't do this in your garage with the door closed and water heater igniting!
Lastly to remove the pressure from the system, rather than dealing with the schrader valve or whatever, pull the # 4 fuse from the rear SAM start it, and it will run briefly until there is no fuel pressure. Shazam!
Then start pulling hoses!
Do the differential oil while you're down there.
1. Mann is good, made in Germany!
2. You don't need to remove the pan, or even 5-56 nuts. Just remove the one, and prop it open with a screwdriver!
3. You are correct T25 !
4. Do one line at a time no need to clamp the hoses. You might damage them, and also you won't get confused.
Be sure to put a pan down to collect the spilled fuel, wear safety glasses, and stay away from people with lit cigarettes, don't do this in your garage with the door closed and water heater igniting!
Lastly to remove the pressure from the system, rather than dealing with the schrader valve or whatever, pull the # 4 fuse from the rear SAM start it, and it will run briefly until there is no fuel pressure. Shazam!
Then start pulling hoses!
Do the differential oil while you're down there.
I just did the Fuel Filter change on my wife's C240 Wagon.
I have a couple of things to add:
1. I used a Mann filter and it looks exactly like OEM. Never had a problem with this brand ever.
2. No need to completely remove the pan on the car. Simply remove the rear 5-6 nuts and it will arc down enough to touch the ground and have plenty of room for the filter removal.
3. The screw for the clamp on this car was T25, not T20.
4. I only clamped the "Tank" line and only minimal fuel came out of the other lines. The filter was full of fuel, though.
5. The tank line was the biggest of the 4. I could not get a 13-15mm clamp on that line.
6. I wish I had something like this for the job from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
I have a couple of things to add:
1. I used a Mann filter and it looks exactly like OEM. Never had a problem with this brand ever.
2. No need to completely remove the pan on the car. Simply remove the rear 5-6 nuts and it will arc down enough to touch the ground and have plenty of room for the filter removal.
3. The screw for the clamp on this car was T25, not T20.
4. I only clamped the "Tank" line and only minimal fuel came out of the other lines. The filter was full of fuel, though.
5. The tank line was the biggest of the 4. I could not get a 13-15mm clamp on that line.
6. I wish I had something like this for the job from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
#182
Senior Member
#183
Super Member
+1 ...
I wish I had known about the Clic-R pliers before I replaced mine, I ended up prying off the factory clamps with pliers and using screw clamps to replace them. The Clic-R seems really easy, plus you can reuse the clamps.
I also bought those hose pinching C-clamps -- bought four of them thinking I was going to pull all hoses off the old filter first ... but I ended up moving the hoses one by one as was suggested above, so I really only needed one clamp.
I wish I had known about the Clic-R pliers before I replaced mine, I ended up prying off the factory clamps with pliers and using screw clamps to replace them. The Clic-R seems really easy, plus you can reuse the clamps.
I also bought those hose pinching C-clamps -- bought four of them thinking I was going to pull all hoses off the old filter first ... but I ended up moving the hoses one by one as was suggested above, so I really only needed one clamp.
#184
Super Moderator
I just did the fuel filter on my W211 today and having the clic-r pliers makes those clamps come off so easy and then you can reuse them and they snap back on with no effort at all. They are so cheap on ebay/amazon no excuse to not add one to your tool box!
#185
MBWorld Fanatic!
Too bad I long ago threw away the old clamps.
My car is running very nice now, with new filter and new plugs.
I definately had some fuel system issues, partially resolved by redline fuel system cleaner. Now I can rest easy.
Clogged fuel filter = broken fuel pump!
217.5K and running smooth as a baby's butt!
My car is running very nice now, with new filter and new plugs.
I definately had some fuel system issues, partially resolved by redline fuel system cleaner. Now I can rest easy.
Clogged fuel filter = broken fuel pump!
217.5K and running smooth as a baby's butt!
#186
Done with ease forgot to loosen cap my friend did it without instruction. He told me the older one which I paid to have a shop replaced last didn't have any clamps on the hose for air pressure
#187
Fuel Filter
Ordered a Hastings GF370 for $32.99 from rockauto.com and got it a day or two later. Opened the Hastings box to find an OEM Mann Filter WK 720 inside. Very pleased with rockauto.
#189
MBWorld Fanatic!
I haven't read all of this thread but enough that I changed the external fuel filter/FPR on my CLK55 without any problems (other than petrol pouring out) so thank you everyone.
I found the "mot" (presumably "motor") fitting had the hose that just did not stop pouring out gas whereas the other 3 stopped fairly quickly. I used some new stainless worm clamps with two on the pump/mot barbs. Used a bosch filter. I only undid the fuel cap and screwed it back on, I did not release the pressure in the fuel rail. The external diameter of the hoses on the barbs are roughly 12mm and 15mm when buying hose clamps.
I found the "mot" (presumably "motor") fitting had the hose that just did not stop pouring out gas whereas the other 3 stopped fairly quickly. I used some new stainless worm clamps with two on the pump/mot barbs. Used a bosch filter. I only undid the fuel cap and screwed it back on, I did not release the pressure in the fuel rail. The external diameter of the hoses on the barbs are roughly 12mm and 15mm when buying hose clamps.
#190
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
'03 ML500 & '11 R350
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS
Just to reiterate what has been said about using quality fuel filters. I recently changed the fuel pump, filter and relay on a w208 CLK (yes I know it's not a w203), and originally used a Pierburg pump, Purolator filter and O.E.M. relay. Well that setup lasted 2 months... after using a fuel pressure gauge (anyone trying to diagnose a fuel issue without one is wasting time) to check fuel pressure at the rail while priming and on startup. This showed there to be 1-3psi of pressure (min spec. is 51psi - max 64psi) in the rail. After much more diag. and wasting time checking old parts, I changed out the Purolator with an O.E.M. MB one. I primed the fuel system and on the second start the fuel rail pressure shot straight to 55psi and stayed there. This is the only part I replaced in the system to regain fuel pressure.
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS AS STATED IN THE MANY POSTS BEFORE THIS
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS AS STATED IN THE MANY POSTS BEFORE THIS
The following users liked this post:
krazzdav (09-16-2016)
#191
MBWorld Fanatic!
Wow what a trip!
Just to reiterate what has been said about using quality fuel filters. I recently changed the fuel pump, filter and relay on a w208 CLK (yes I know it's not a w203), and originally used a Pierburg pump, Purolator filter and O.E.M. relay. Well that setup lasted 2 months... after using a fuel pressure gauge (anyone trying to diagnose a fuel issue without one is wasting time) to check fuel pressure at the rail while priming and on startup. This showed there to be 1-3psi of pressure (min spec. is 51psi - max 64psi) in the rail. After much more diag. and wasting time checking old parts, I changed out the Purolator with an O.E.M. MB one. I primed the fuel system and on the second start the fuel rail pressure shot straight to 55psi and stayed there. This is the only part I replaced in the system to regain fuel pressure.
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS AS STATED IN THE MANY POSTS BEFORE THIS
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS AS STATED IN THE MANY POSTS BEFORE THIS
#192
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
C200 kompressor 2001 (W203)
Sorry if I am misplaced, but I could not find comments on this: the fuel hose size C200 kompressor 2001 (W203). I think I need to replace one or another hose because of the occasional petrol smell. Regards.
#193
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,122
Likes: 0
Received 210 Likes
on
201 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Does anybody know what this hose does? It attaches to the port marked "can" on the filter (I assume this stands for "charcoal canister"). I assumed it would be something to do with the gasoline fumes, but I also remember that some gasoline spilled out of that hose too when unplugged from the filter.
The strange part is that the hose is quite short, and actually plugs back into a plastic port that goes into the tank (where the circle is, actual port not visible).
The strange part is that the hose is quite short, and actually plugs back into a plastic port that goes into the tank (where the circle is, actual port not visible).
#194
The S shaped hose? That is going to the engine.
The smaller line on the left is a vacuum line for the pressure regulator and is connected via the tank.
Otherwise take a look here
https://mb-teilekatalog.info/view_Su...=47&subgrp=035
fuel line
while youre in there, the metal fuel line often rust through on top of the hose clamp
The smaller line on the left is a vacuum line for the pressure regulator and is connected via the tank.
Otherwise take a look here
https://mb-teilekatalog.info/view_Su...=47&subgrp=035
fuel line
while youre in there, the metal fuel line often rust through on top of the hose clamp
Last edited by 112233; 12-28-2023 at 02:36 PM.
#195
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,122
Likes: 0
Received 210 Likes
on
201 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
No, not the S-shaped one. I'm talking about the thinner hose where the turquoise circle is, which connects to the "can" port on the filter, and goes into a port attached to the fuel tank. The S-shaped one goes to the motor, and connects to the "mot" port on the filter.
My fuel line (the part you circled in yellow) was actually fine, but the S-shaped hose was all cracked and was falling apart. Replaced that one earlier this year.
My fuel line (the part you circled in yellow) was actually fine, but the S-shaped hose was all cracked and was falling apart. Replaced that one earlier this year.
#197
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,122
Likes: 0
Received 210 Likes
on
201 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Thanks for the information. Anyone know if it just goes directly into the gas tank reservoir, or if it goes inside an air filled pipe? Trying to remember if the hose is only filled with air, or if gasoline can/does make its way into this thing.