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All gas w203 I believe use this filter besides the 07 MY as they use in tank filters that you can't replace. Before you order you could always take a look under the car you don't have to take anything off to see if it is outside the tank in the normal location.
I got mine from Amazon Warehouse deals as they are returnable and you can save usually close to 50% or more on many car parts. I have gotten $43 pads for under 20, $18 filter for $10, $80 each rotor for $16.05 each. All the parts are good brands too Mann, Bosch, Akebono, ACDelco. Also since you said you have a kid going to college soon if you don't have amazon prime yet if they have a .edu email yet you get prime discounted for 4 years which makes shipping the parts free! And if they come and are not up to your standards free shipping back! They shipped two sets of front rotors from Nevada to Virginia 2nd day air lol they arrived in destroyed shipping boxes but both sets looked brand new
Nice! Ordered mine and it is expected to arrive before the weekend. Dayum! Now that's luv. ;-)
You've pointed me to a new favorite place to visit for car parts.
I just did the Fuel Filter change on my wife's C240 Wagon.
I have a couple of things to add:
1. I used a Mann filter and it looks exactly like OEM. Never had a problem with this brand ever.
2. No need to completely remove the pan on the car. Simply remove the rear 5-6 nuts and it will arc down enough to touch the ground and have plenty of room for the filter removal.
3. The screw for the clamp on this car was T25, not T20.
4. I only clamped the "Tank" line and only minimal fuel came out of the other lines. The filter was full of fuel, though.
5. The tank line was the biggest of the 4. I could not get a 13-15mm clamp on that line.
6. I wish I had something like this for the job from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
Not 100% sure but doubt that it is any different. Check PN to see if it is the same filter then just climb underneath and see if the filter is in the same spot.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort (What the heck, it gets 38 mpg!)
Just did mine for the 3rd or 4th time.
1. Mann is good, made in Germany!
2. You don't need to remove the pan, or even 5-56 nuts. Just remove the one, and prop it open with a screwdriver!
3. You are correct T25 !
4. Do one line at a time no need to clamp the hoses. You might damage them, and also you won't get confused.
Be sure to put a pan down to collect the spilled fuel, wear safety glasses, and stay away from people with lit cigarettes, don't do this in your garage with the door closed and water heater igniting!
Lastly to remove the pressure from the system, rather than dealing with the schrader valve or whatever, pull the # 4 fuse from the rear SAM start it, and it will run briefly until there is no fuel pressure. Shazam!
Then start pulling hoses!
Do the differential oil while you're down there.
Originally Posted by ordway.dc
I just did the Fuel Filter change on my wife's C240 Wagon.
I have a couple of things to add:
1. I used a Mann filter and it looks exactly like OEM. Never had a problem with this brand ever.
2. No need to completely remove the pan on the car. Simply remove the rear 5-6 nuts and it will arc down enough to touch the ground and have plenty of room for the filter removal.
3. The screw for the clamp on this car was T25, not T20.
4. I only clamped the "Tank" line and only minimal fuel came out of the other lines. The filter was full of fuel, though.
5. The tank line was the biggest of the 4. I could not get a 13-15mm clamp on that line.
6. I wish I had something like this for the job from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
2017 GLA 250, 2011 C63 P31 (p30 w/ lsd) (in repair), 2005 C230 Sport Eurocharged, 2003 C320~sold
I used these clic/clic-r pliers and they work great because it's the right tool ($19 ebay...now about $14) and these OTC 4506 clamps ($8 Amazon). I recommend buying new hose clamps when you do this.
I wish I had known about the Clic-R pliers before I replaced mine, I ended up prying off the factory clamps with pliers and using screw clamps to replace them. The Clic-R seems really easy, plus you can reuse the clamps.
I also bought those hose pinching C-clamps -- bought four of them thinking I was going to pull all hoses off the old filter first ... but I ended up moving the hoses one by one as was suggested above, so I really only needed one clamp.
I just did the fuel filter on my W211 today and having the clic-r pliers makes those clamps come off so easy and then you can reuse them and they snap back on with no effort at all. They are so cheap on ebay/amazon no excuse to not add one to your tool box!
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort (What the heck, it gets 38 mpg!)
Too bad I long ago threw away the old clamps.
My car is running very nice now, with new filter and new plugs.
I definately had some fuel system issues, partially resolved by redline fuel system cleaner. Now I can rest easy.
Clogged fuel filter = broken fuel pump!
Done with ease forgot to loosen cap my friend did it without instruction. He told me the older one which I paid to have a shop replaced last didn't have any clamps on the hose for air pressure
Ordered a Hastings GF370 for $32.99 from rockauto.com and got it a day or two later. Opened the Hastings box to find an OEM Mann Filter WK 720 inside. Very pleased with rockauto.
I haven't read all of this thread but enough that I changed the external fuel filter/FPR on my CLK55 without any problems (other than petrol pouring out) so thank you everyone.
I found the "mot" (presumably "motor") fitting had the hose that just did not stop pouring out gas whereas the other 3 stopped fairly quickly. I used some new stainless worm clamps with two on the pump/mot barbs. Used a bosch filter. I only undid the fuel cap and screwed it back on, I did not release the pressure in the fuel rail. The external diameter of the hoses on the barbs are roughly 12mm and 15mm when buying hose clamps.
Just to reiterate what has been said about using quality fuel filters. I recently changed the fuel pump, filter and relay on a w208 CLK (yes I know it's not a w203), and originally used a Pierburg pump, Purolator filter and O.E.M. relay. Well that setup lasted 2 months... after using a fuel pressure gauge (anyone trying to diagnose a fuel issue without one is wasting time) to check fuel pressure at the rail while priming and on startup. This showed there to be 1-3psi of pressure (min spec. is 51psi - max 64psi) in the rail. After much more diag. and wasting time checking old parts, I changed out the Purolator with an O.E.M. MB one. I primed the fuel system and on the second start the fuel rail pressure shot straight to 55psi and stayed there. This is the only part I replaced in the system to regain fuel pressure.
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS AS STATED IN THE MANY POSTS BEFORE THIS
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort (What the heck, it gets 38 mpg!)
Wow what a trip!
Originally Posted by 04Fire
Just to reiterate what has been said about using quality fuel filters. I recently changed the fuel pump, filter and relay on a w208 CLK (yes I know it's not a w203), and originally used a Pierburg pump, Purolator filter and O.E.M. relay. Well that setup lasted 2 months... after using a fuel pressure gauge (anyone trying to diagnose a fuel issue without one is wasting time) to check fuel pressure at the rail while priming and on startup. This showed there to be 1-3psi of pressure (min spec. is 51psi - max 64psi) in the rail. After much more diag. and wasting time checking old parts, I changed out the Purolator with an O.E.M. MB one. I primed the fuel system and on the second start the fuel rail pressure shot straight to 55psi and stayed there. This is the only part I replaced in the system to regain fuel pressure.
USE QUALITY FUEL FILTERS AS STATED IN THE MANY POSTS BEFORE THIS
Sorry if I am misplaced, but I could not find comments on this: the fuel hose size C200 kompressor 2001 (W203). I think I need to replace one or another hose because of the occasional petrol smell. Regards.
Does anybody know what this hose does? It attaches to the port marked "can" on the filter (I assume this stands for "charcoal canister"). I assumed it would be something to do with the gasoline fumes, but I also remember that some gasoline spilled out of that hose too when unplugged from the filter.
The strange part is that the hose is quite short, and actually plugs back into a plastic port that goes into the tank (where the circle is, actual port not visible).
The S shaped hose? That is going to the engine.
The smaller line on the left is a vacuum line for the pressure regulator and is connected via the tank.
No, not the S-shaped one. I'm talking about the thinner hose where the turquoise circle is, which connects to the "can" port on the filter, and goes into a port attached to the fuel tank. The S-shaped one goes to the motor, and connects to the "mot" port on the filter.
My fuel line (the part you circled in yellow) was actually fine, but the S-shaped hose was all cracked and was falling apart. Replaced that one earlier this year.
This one? It is connected to the tank to equalize the pressure. AFAIK the fuel pressure regulator is built in the filter.
Thanks for the information. Anyone know if it just goes directly into the gas tank reservoir, or if it goes inside an air filled pipe? Trying to remember if the hose is only filled with air, or if gasoline can/does make its way into this thing.
04-10-2014, 04:07 AM
http://www.harborfreight.com/hose-re...ers-66638.html
($19 ebay...now about $14) and these OTC 4506 clamps ($8 Amazon). I recommend buying new hose clamps when you do this.
