vibration up front! need help!

If you car already has the fluted bolts & has had an alignment done with them - ensure that they go back in the position they were removed from or your alignment will be way out. Probably still a good idea to have the alignment checked. - Good Luck
the problem started after I put on 4 new Dunlop SP Maxx SP9000.. theres a very uncomfortable vibration on the steering wheel.. only noticable when driving faster than 70km/h.
I had the wheels balanced 2 times and 1 time with wheels on the car. it got better but the vibration is still there. (the mechanic had to rotate the tire many many times)
I then drove the car to a wheel specialist with the most high tech. laser measuring balancer.. they were able to balance the wheels but it did not help.
the runout figure of the tires (2 of them) were just too big
now I have my winter wheels on and the problem is gone.. I really think its the tire. see if you can find a spare set of wheels to do a test before you try anything else.
mike
Last edited by mike82y; Nov 24, 2008 at 02:22 PM.

the problem started after I put on 4 new Dunlop SP Maxx SP9000.. theres a very uncomfortable vibration on the steering wheel.. only noticable when driving faster than 70km/h.
I had the wheels balanced 2 times and 1 time with wheels on the car. it got better but the vibration is still there. (the mechanic had to rotate the tire many many times)
I then drove the car to a wheel specialist with the most high tech. laser measuring balancer.. they were able to balance the wheels but it did not help.
the runout figure of the tires (2 of them) were just too big
now I have my winter wheels on and the problem is gone.. I really think its the tire. see if you can find a spare set of wheels to do a test before you try anything else.
mike
Dynamic Load Balancing is not the answer in these cases & if you don't want to grind thousands of Kms of potential life off the tread you should return the tyres as defective - because that is what they are - defective.
I was going to send back the tires but my mechanic couldnt really say which the defective one was.. for some reasons, i have really bad lucks with dunlop..
mike

Dynamic Load Balancing is not the answer in these cases & if you don't want to grind thousands of Kms of potential life off the tread you should return the tyres as defective - because that is what they are - defective.

also when you re-balance the tire make sure they inflat it to the tire pressure you want to run on before balancing it. trust me it'll help.
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I recently changed the front upper control arms (aluminum ones) and the front swaybar endlinks. However, I still feel a vibration under the drivers side floor while curving right on a highway at > 120kph. I think my front lower control arm ball joints are worn as well.
Now my question is, from your past experience, is it possible to replace only the ball joints or does the entire arm need to be replaced and if only the ball joints can be replaced, is it more labour intensive than changing the entire arm to the point of not justifyign replacing only the joints?
Just trying to save some money here if possible...




Quick test....get on a highway and get to about 120kph and do a sharp curve right and then a sharp curve right (when traffic conditions ensure that its perfectly safe). If you feel the vibrations increase when youre curving right, check your left wheel control arm joints. If you're curving left, check your right wheel control arm bushings.
If you're able to lift the car up, you can check for play yourself by using a metal rod and wedging it between the control arm and any surrounding surface and gently trying to pry the arm along the vertical axis of the bushing. if it moves, its busted and needs to be replaced.





