vibration up front! need help!
#26
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If you car already has the fluted bolts & has had an alignment done with them - ensure that they go back in the position they were removed from or your alignment will be way out. Probably still a good idea to have the alignment checked. - Good Luck
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#27
i had the same problem with my S211.
the problem started after I put on 4 new Dunlop SP Maxx SP9000.. theres a very uncomfortable vibration on the steering wheel.. only noticable when driving faster than 70km/h.
I had the wheels balanced 2 times and 1 time with wheels on the car. it got better but the vibration is still there. (the mechanic had to rotate the tire many many times)
I then drove the car to a wheel specialist with the most high tech. laser measuring balancer.. they were able to balance the wheels but it did not help.
the runout figure of the tires (2 of them) were just too big
now I have my winter wheels on and the problem is gone.. I really think its the tire. see if you can find a spare set of wheels to do a test before you try anything else.
mike
the problem started after I put on 4 new Dunlop SP Maxx SP9000.. theres a very uncomfortable vibration on the steering wheel.. only noticable when driving faster than 70km/h.
I had the wheels balanced 2 times and 1 time with wheels on the car. it got better but the vibration is still there. (the mechanic had to rotate the tire many many times)
I then drove the car to a wheel specialist with the most high tech. laser measuring balancer.. they were able to balance the wheels but it did not help.
the runout figure of the tires (2 of them) were just too big
now I have my winter wheels on and the problem is gone.. I really think its the tire. see if you can find a spare set of wheels to do a test before you try anything else.
mike
Last edited by mike82y; 11-24-2008 at 02:22 PM.
#28
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i had the same problem with my S211.
the problem started after I put on 4 new Dunlop SP Maxx SP9000.. theres a very uncomfortable vibration on the steering wheel.. only noticable when driving faster than 70km/h.
I had the wheels balanced 2 times and 1 time with wheels on the car. it got better but the vibration is still there. (the mechanic had to rotate the tire many many times)
I then drove the car to a wheel specialist with the most high tech. laser measuring balancer.. they were able to balance the wheels but it did not help.
the runout figure of the tires (2 of them) were just too big
now I have my winter wheels on and the problem is gone.. I really think its the tire. see if you can find a spare set of wheels to do a test before you try anything else.
mike
the problem started after I put on 4 new Dunlop SP Maxx SP9000.. theres a very uncomfortable vibration on the steering wheel.. only noticable when driving faster than 70km/h.
I had the wheels balanced 2 times and 1 time with wheels on the car. it got better but the vibration is still there. (the mechanic had to rotate the tire many many times)
I then drove the car to a wheel specialist with the most high tech. laser measuring balancer.. they were able to balance the wheels but it did not help.
the runout figure of the tires (2 of them) were just too big
now I have my winter wheels on and the problem is gone.. I really think its the tire. see if you can find a spare set of wheels to do a test before you try anything else.
mike
Dynamic Load Balancing is not the answer in these cases & if you don't want to grind thousands of Kms of potential life off the tread you should return the tyres as defective - because that is what they are - defective.
#29
im just going to sell those tires with rims next year and swich to some 17"
I was going to send back the tires but my mechanic couldnt really say which the defective one was.. for some reasons, i have really bad lucks with dunlop..
mike
I was going to send back the tires but my mechanic couldnt really say which the defective one was.. for some reasons, i have really bad lucks with dunlop..
mike
#30
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I would send them all back!!! The Sumitomo Corp frequently seems to make screw ups with their tyres.
#31
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05 c230 kompressor
The S211 is very sensitive to this. The way to correct those tyres is to put them on a grinder & skim them round - Even better return them to the manufacture & tell them to keep their crap & buy better tyres.
Dynamic Load Balancing is not the answer in these cases & if you don't want to grind thousands of Kms of potential life off the tread you should return the tyres as defective - because that is what they are - defective.
Dynamic Load Balancing is not the answer in these cases & if you don't want to grind thousands of Kms of potential life off the tread you should return the tyres as defective - because that is what they are - defective.
#32
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mike, i'm also starting to believe that it is the tire. i switched the fronts around and i could feel the vibration but not as much only becuz its towards the passenger side now. the driver side is smooth. but i still do feel the vibration. i'm gonna go back to the tire shop tomorrow to see if they could balance it again. or just give me a new tire. i also called the dealership and they did say that the castor bushes are cavored by warranty only if they need replacing. so their gonna check that for me tomorrow. i'll let u guys know whats up if or whenever i fix the problem. thanks everyone for the info. it helped so much. aspecially glyn, thanks man. u know ur stuff.
#33
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white and whiter
agree with Glyn. get the tires rebalanced and have the control arm bushing/bearing checked out.
also when you re-balance the tire make sure they inflat it to the tire pressure you want to run on before balancing it. trust me it'll help.
also when you re-balance the tire make sure they inflat it to the tire pressure you want to run on before balancing it. trust me it'll help.
#34
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Frank is spot on re pressure - it's something we tend to take fore granted - don't!
#35
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
hey guys....im having a similar problem on my car.
I recently changed the front upper control arms (aluminum ones) and the front swaybar endlinks. However, I still feel a vibration under the drivers side floor while curving right on a highway at > 120kph. I think my front lower control arm ball joints are worn as well.
Now my question is, from your past experience, is it possible to replace only the ball joints or does the entire arm need to be replaced and if only the ball joints can be replaced, is it more labour intensive than changing the entire arm to the point of not justifyign replacing only the joints?
Just trying to save some money here if possible...
I recently changed the front upper control arms (aluminum ones) and the front swaybar endlinks. However, I still feel a vibration under the drivers side floor while curving right on a highway at > 120kph. I think my front lower control arm ball joints are worn as well.
Now my question is, from your past experience, is it possible to replace only the ball joints or does the entire arm need to be replaced and if only the ball joints can be replaced, is it more labour intensive than changing the entire arm to the point of not justifyign replacing only the joints?
Just trying to save some money here if possible...
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#36
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You need to replace the arm. Benz show no rebuild for the ball joint in the EPC.
#38
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2002 Mercedes Benz C230 Coupe
To the OP...I can almost guarantee that the vibration is because of the inner or outer joints on the upper or lower control arms. Im having the same issues now....
Quick test....get on a highway and get to about 120kph and do a sharp curve right and then a sharp curve right (when traffic conditions ensure that its perfectly safe). If you feel the vibrations increase when youre curving right, check your left wheel control arm joints. If you're curving left, check your right wheel control arm bushings.
If you're able to lift the car up, you can check for play yourself by using a metal rod and wedging it between the control arm and any surrounding surface and gently trying to pry the arm along the vertical axis of the bushing. if it moves, its busted and needs to be replaced.
Quick test....get on a highway and get to about 120kph and do a sharp curve right and then a sharp curve right (when traffic conditions ensure that its perfectly safe). If you feel the vibrations increase when youre curving right, check your left wheel control arm joints. If you're curving left, check your right wheel control arm bushings.
If you're able to lift the car up, you can check for play yourself by using a metal rod and wedging it between the control arm and any surrounding surface and gently trying to pry the arm along the vertical axis of the bushing. if it moves, its busted and needs to be replaced.