Scraping on anything not completely flat
#1
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03 W203, 13 E350, 13 W204, 14 C218
Scraping on anything not completely flat
I Just lowered my car. I have KWv2's and basically if the road isn't even it scrapes But it looks sooo good! Its the wheel rubbing that material lining inside the wheel well in the back. I adjusted them to go as low as they can go in the rear. If you are familiar with the KWv2's you will know what I mean....
So I have some questions...
1.) Can I remove that lining?
2.) Is it ok to Stiffn' the rear suspension to the max?
(Because someone told me it has to be stiffer in the front than rear)
3.) Should I run a lower profile tires?
(I'm running 265/30 right now)
4.) Is this possible with a 19" Rim?
If you look at my sig. at the first picture the fender is now in the middle of the the tire start and the chrome lip.
So I have some questions...
1.) Can I remove that lining?
2.) Is it ok to Stiffn' the rear suspension to the max?
(Because someone told me it has to be stiffer in the front than rear)
3.) Should I run a lower profile tires?
(I'm running 265/30 right now)
4.) Is this possible with a 19" Rim?
If you look at my sig. at the first picture the fender is now in the middle of the the tire start and the chrome lip.
Last edited by paypaboi; 02-16-2009 at 02:43 AM.
#2
Super Moderator
PM Tru - I know he did some reshaping with a heat gun & a baseball bat. - Front I think - I think there is a limit to what you can do at the back because most of the rub points are steel bodywork. He's had his car at many heights & knows his way around. You've seen my warnings above - don't run the back too low. Keep the nose down. I think it's always going to be stiffer in front, because you have the weight of the engine pre compressing those springs.
#3
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Front:
You can always push the front plastic lining of the fender w/ a heat gun/baseball bat by about half an inch if you're rubbing while turning hard...
If you're rubbing in the back on the inner fender lining then one or a few of the following are causing it:
1 - Your car is just flat out dipping too low - spring rate/dampening might need to be stepped up, but there is only so much can do with this especially if you hit uneven roads. Then again I've seen some comments about excessively stiff suspension setups in the rear causing the rear tires to skip when traversing bumpy terrain as opposed to gently contouring to the ground and keeping your tires on the pavement.
2 - Your tires are too fat (run 255 instead of 265) or they dont have the right side walls for going super low.
3 - You're offset is in the rear too positive. You can always throw in a spacer if you have the space to clear with your fender...
You also have to remember if you're going to be super dumped that you're either gonna have to scrape lots, deal w/ the price of having to replace your tires more regularly due to negative camber wear, OR get skinner (under 255) tires which put your wheels at greater risk. If you wanna be dumped w/o camber wear, then you have to fix your camber w/ a kit (use camber arms here if you do because they're much easier to install) and if that's the case, you will have to increase your camber to the point where you're no longer worried about the inner fender, but you're worried about the fender lip making contact with your wheel/tire...
The easiest solution to all of this is: raise the car back up to normal heights and tweak your suspension settings for the best performance :P
eidt: I would highly suggest an alignment if you're going to stay super low and value your rear tires - being so low will completely mess up your rear toe and having goofy toe will eat tires faster than having really negative camber.
You can always push the front plastic lining of the fender w/ a heat gun/baseball bat by about half an inch if you're rubbing while turning hard...
If you're rubbing in the back on the inner fender lining then one or a few of the following are causing it:
1 - Your car is just flat out dipping too low - spring rate/dampening might need to be stepped up, but there is only so much can do with this especially if you hit uneven roads. Then again I've seen some comments about excessively stiff suspension setups in the rear causing the rear tires to skip when traversing bumpy terrain as opposed to gently contouring to the ground and keeping your tires on the pavement.
2 - Your tires are too fat (run 255 instead of 265) or they dont have the right side walls for going super low.
3 - You're offset is in the rear too positive. You can always throw in a spacer if you have the space to clear with your fender...
You also have to remember if you're going to be super dumped that you're either gonna have to scrape lots, deal w/ the price of having to replace your tires more regularly due to negative camber wear, OR get skinner (under 255) tires which put your wheels at greater risk. If you wanna be dumped w/o camber wear, then you have to fix your camber w/ a kit (use camber arms here if you do because they're much easier to install) and if that's the case, you will have to increase your camber to the point where you're no longer worried about the inner fender, but you're worried about the fender lip making contact with your wheel/tire...
The easiest solution to all of this is: raise the car back up to normal heights and tweak your suspension settings for the best performance :P
eidt: I would highly suggest an alignment if you're going to stay super low and value your rear tires - being so low will completely mess up your rear toe and having goofy toe will eat tires faster than having really negative camber.
Last edited by TruTaing; 02-16-2009 at 12:28 PM.
#5
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03 W203, 13 E350, 13 W204, 14 C218
Thanks very helpful I will look into all of this...as far as offset...honestly id don'y think it can get anymore perfect because the tire barely tucks the fender...any type of space and the fender will be right on top of the wheel. But thanks for the info excellent and detailed! I really do appreciate it Tru!
#7
I Just lowered my car. I have KWv2's and basically if the road isn't even it scrapes But it looks sooo good! Its the wheel rubbing that material lining inside the wheel well in the back. I adjusted them to go as low as they can go in the rear. If you are familiar with the KWv2's you will know what I mean....
So I have some questions...
1.) Can I remove that lining?
2.) Is it ok to Stiffn' the rear suspension to the max?
(Because someone told me it has to be stiffer in the front than rear)
3.) Should I run a lower profile tires?
(I'm running 265/30 right now)
4.) Is this possible with a 19" Rim?
If you look at my sig. at the first picture the fender is now in the middle of the the tire start and the chrome lip.
So I have some questions...
1.) Can I remove that lining?
2.) Is it ok to Stiffn' the rear suspension to the max?
(Because someone told me it has to be stiffer in the front than rear)
3.) Should I run a lower profile tires?
(I'm running 265/30 right now)
4.) Is this possible with a 19" Rim?
If you look at my sig. at the first picture the fender is now in the middle of the the tire start and the chrome lip.
2. its not recommended to stiffen the rear to the max (or the front either) maxing out on dampening will cause your suspension to blow or will cause a leak in the strut. how many way adjustable is your suspension?
3. if rubbing is an issue, you can try to stretch your tires. you could do a 255/30 but honestly i wouldnt waste my money on new tires until im sure it can resolve your problem.
4. a lot of lexus/infiniti guys actually run 255 series on 19s and 20s so it shouldnt be a problem.
your wheels are really flush with your fenders, which is a good thing!
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#8
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Stiffening your suspension should be done with springs, not the damping, and a front/rear roll stiffness should be kept in mind. Damping gets fine tuned in after you get the spring rates right. Stiffening the rear more than the front will cause the car to oversteer. You want the front to be sightly stiffer because the sedans (at least mine with the V6) have a 55/45 weight distribution. I weighed 2000 on the front axle and 1600 on the rear.
#9
Super Moderator
Stiffening your suspension should be done with springs, not the damping, and a front/rear roll stiffness should be kept in mind. Damping gets fine tuned in after you get the spring rates right. Stiffening the rear more than the front will cause the car to oversteer. You want the front to be sightly stiffer because the sedans (at least mine with the V6) have a 55/45 weight distribution. I weighed 2000 on the front axle and 1600 on the rear.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Did you want to be lower than that?? from that pic it looks like a pretty good drop...
Im running Falken 452 265's in the rear and i was rubbing on every big dip also. I shaved/trimmed the inner lining and the piece that connects the fender to the bumper and now theres no rubbing...
Im thinking of going 275 and rolling my fenders..
Have you done any fender rolling or trimmed the inner lining?
Im running Falken 452 265's in the rear and i was rubbing on every big dip also. I shaved/trimmed the inner lining and the piece that connects the fender to the bumper and now theres no rubbing...
Im thinking of going 275 and rolling my fenders..
Have you done any fender rolling or trimmed the inner lining?
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03 W203, 13 E350, 13 W204, 14 C218
No I haven't done any modifications to the fenders...when I hit dips it rubs. Im going to get my fenders shaved tho. My friend has a dremel and all the tools should we attempt doing it ourselves or is that not a good idea?
#13
I dont recommend you do it. It creates more problems. I had same problems like urs before. My rear tires always hit the fender and create noisy. Eventually, you will mess up your tires.
That's my advise.....Take care..and good lucks..
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not the whole piece, just some of it, no exactly sure how much of it though. The tire was rubbing a lot of the inner lining. I had to cut pieces of that out