C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Whats the draw?

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Old May 11, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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2001 C240, 2000 S430, 2002 ML320
Whats the draw?

Hey guys, long time no see.

Yet again the C-Class has given me problems

Anyways, my car has a draw somewhere, Ive already replaced both seat modules, the COMMAND system was also drawing, so we did a relay switch on that.

I've got a fluctuating draw, from 3-1amps at any given time, so we are assuming that the computers are doing something, hence the fluctuating draw.

Now my mechanic has tried everything and he says that Mercedes will hook up the car and instantly tell me where the draw is....but the stealership will charge a redic. diagnosis fee and i've already poured so much money into this...but I will do that as a last resort.

Anyways, mechanic thinks it COULD be the rear SAM...any ideas or suggestions as to what can be drawing my battery? The car works fine for two days when untouched but after the third it doesn't crank at all.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:39 PM
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Old May 13, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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THE C350
i don’t have a answer for you but i am curios how much of a draw did the command have? also what is your location and with all of the mb i assume you have a good relationship with your sa right? if you do i have an idea
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Old May 13, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Sounds like you aren't doing the work yourself so maybe $100 diagnostic fee is the best alternative at this point. If you are willing to try something easy on your own do this: Look under the driver and passenger seats from the front and pull the 4 wire connector (with only three wires attached) from each of the seat modules (black boxes). See if that stops the draw. ALL of the old style seat modules draw current, some just more than others. Your new ones might be as bad or worse than the ones they replaced. If that stops the draw there is an easy fix that just requires the key in position 1 or 2 to operate the seat. The other common sources of draw I've read about but not experienced are front and rear sam modules. Have your mechanic disconnect those and take measurements. Is he/she using a clamp on amp meter on the battery + lead? Do you have a digital multimeter?
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Old May 13, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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With all the money you've dumped into the problem, you should have just gone to the dealer and paid them to diagnose it correctly the first time. The dealer isn't just going to hook up their "computer" and see where the draw is. They will put a DMM in-line with the battery cable and then start pulling fuses and/or disconnecting things until the draw goes away.
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Old May 14, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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thanks guys, and believe me, i've taken it to the dealer for all of these diagnosis, i just had my mechanic do the actual work once we found the draw.

Im really really worried that its the rear SAM Anyways, if i start the car every day, or every other day it still will work.

As a side note, I disconnected my driver side seat module, this is a replaced one (the left one has been disconnected ever since it was drawing, never bothered to replace it)

After my car was up and running, I plugged the two cables under my seat back into the module and the seat still isn't working. Did I blow a fuse cause I did it while the car was running? If so, which fuse is it plz?

My mechanic told me maybe its because the battery was being drained to 0 so much that everytime I restarted the car the SAM module rebooted too and it takes time for it to recognize something that isn't there, or something along those lines. So I disconnected the negative terminal of car and reconnected it after 10 minutes, started the car, and the seat still wont work.

Any ideas? Thanks for your help so far.
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Old May 17, 2009 | 11:18 PM
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