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you'll notice that when you start the car in cold weather, the RPMs are just slightly above 1k, but after you drive a while and stop the car, they rest at below 1k. i know this is because the engine has warmed up, i just don't know why this happens. any info on this anyone? i also don't know if warming an engine is necessary.
also, there's a poll here too.
Last edited by truelove; Feb 11, 2003 at 12:52 PM.
the RPMs are just slightly above 1k, but after you drive a while and stop the car, they rest at below 1k
Generally, once you start the car, driving it around warms it up as well or better than letting it sit.
Cheers, BT
I'm not sure how it is on the 1.8L though...
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> indication that the engine is warmed up
A good indication of that is when the temperature gauge bar shows nominal value (80-95 C).
However, warming engine at idle does more harm than good, as the idle mode is the worst for the engine.
40-45 seconds is plenty enough, that's what it takes to warm up the cat converter.
Drive off but don't race the engine - this is the safest (and quickest) way to warm it up.
Last edited by vadim; Feb 11, 2003 at 01:29 PM.
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All of you should just keep it under 4000 RPM until it is warmed up. That is what is most important.
FWIW... I let my car sit for maybe 15 seconds (as long as it takes for the garage door to open) then I just take it easy (under 3000 RPM - with my automatic) until the temps are up.
They do warm up best when driven.
BTW, fast idle during cold startup is not just for smog reasons. Cars have had fast idles for the last 50-100 years -- that also used to be part of the "choke's" function. Cold engines require a richer fuel mixture, and a slightly faster idle prevents roughness when first starting.
I'm not "that" old, but for those who don't know or remember, cars used to have a manual choke knob that you pulled out when the car was cold. It closed part of the carburetor air intake to allow for a richer mixture and at the same time, moved a cam into position to keep the throttle open more. As the car warmed, you pushed in the knob to set the mixture for normal operation and return the idle to normal speed. Then, cars used an automatic choke mechanism which was similar to a thermostat -- a coiled spring which contracted and expanded in relation to temperature. This took the place of the manual choke knob. Eventually, almost all cars replaced the complex carburetor with fuel injection and computers and voila -- perfection!
This is always a fun debate. Me? I turn the key, count to 4 or 5 (once the starter motor noise dies down), put in reverse, back out of garage... go.
Use your dyno mode to see how the oil level instantly drops the second you turn the car over... the car has plenty of oil to coat everything within a second or two.
Car and Driver stated, awhile back, that with today's modern engines and oils, the average car needs to be warmed up for 30 seconds.
If, by some chance, it's left outside overnight in deep winter, the conservative stretch extends until the temp gauge gets up to about 80.
Hence I let my Benz warm for the same amount of time.
Take it however you will with a grain of salt.
i usually wait about a minute or two before i start moving. Then i take it easy on the car (below 40mph) until the temp gauge hit about 90F (i think its F or C) then i feel safe to push the car....sometime when its really cold (under 40F) and I dont wait long enough the car at low speed accel will not get out of 1st gear until u let off and hit the accel again....has anyone experienced this? I also let the car run at about under 40mph for 5min before shutting off the engine (cool down) when pushing hard. yeah i'm paranoid.
I know what you're saying about keeping the speed down, and not to disagree, but miles per hour isn't the important thing, its rpm. I mean, you can do 25 miles per hour in 1st gear at about 6000 rpm -- not too good for a cold engine
. On the other hand, 60miles per hour at 2500 rpm is cool!On a related note, once I had a new car and the manual said keep it under 4000 rpm for the first 1000 miles. My wife drove it with me and I told her to take it easy. At the first stoplight, she pushed it pretty good and wound it out to 4500! She said, "I was just accelerating normally"!
my 0.02
Car and Driver stated, awhile back, that with today's modern engines and oils, the average car needs to be warmed up for 30 seconds.
I would still take it easy as the rest of the rotating parts need to get proper lubrication as well. Manual transmissions, rear differentials, U-joints, wheel bearings, and parts of the automatic transmission will not lubricate until the start rotating.
Last edited by TNblkc230wz; Feb 12, 2003 at 01:06 AM.
Rich mixtures accelerate cylinder bore and ring wear; the sooner your engine reaches operating temperature, the better for its longevity. The quickest way to warm an engine up is to drive the car.
I use very conservative warmup driving techniques: shift at 3000 rpm maximum until coolant reaches 70 degrees, then 3500 rpm maximum until coolant has been at operating temp for a couple of minutes.
The degree to which this has worked is impossible to say empirically, but it's evidently done my old 405 no harm. It has 285,000 km (177 K miles) on the original engine and it is still pretty tight, probably good for another 150,000 km minimum. Maybe it'll hit 500,000 km. Well, one hundred thousand at a time...
Once the oil light goes out, the car is fair game. To drive gently, not to rev.
Rich mixtures accelerate cylinder bore and ring wear; the sooner your engine reaches operating temperature, the better for its longevity. The quickest way to warm an engine up is to drive the car.

