MW_ATL's Coupe
#51
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
[quote=slammer111;4073987]Way to revive a dead thread.
It wasn't dead....just hibernating for the winter. Just my little record of my tinkering. I admit I look at the w204s with envy, though.
It wasn't dead....just hibernating for the winter. Just my little record of my tinkering. I admit I look at the w204s with envy, though.
#52
Out Of Control!!
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
I've always liked the look of a well equipped W204, not sure why, probably like the straight lines and sharp angles. However, I will say that I usually don't see what I like. It seems to be someone that checked all the options for a C350. The base cars I see running around all the time don't catch my eye.
I will think about that on the bars. I was considering doing them late this summer, if I can scrape the cash together and find time when the wife is out of town. I doubt I would ever push it hard enough to notice the difference, but, the front AMG sways did come in a couple of different diameters over the years, and the thickest is no longer available from MB.
For now, I just have to get the wheels stripped and resprayed with clear, and a bit of curb rash on one fixed, then I will be ready to get them on the car.
I have been slowly reading and learning about BiXenons, but that will be a while off I think.
I will think about that on the bars. I was considering doing them late this summer, if I can scrape the cash together and find time when the wife is out of town. I doubt I would ever push it hard enough to notice the difference, but, the front AMG sways did come in a couple of different diameters over the years, and the thickest is no longer available from MB.
For now, I just have to get the wheels stripped and resprayed with clear, and a bit of curb rash on one fixed, then I will be ready to get them on the car.
I have been slowly reading and learning about BiXenons, but that will be a while off I think.
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
^ I thought W203 bars only came in 1 thickness for AMG? Yes there are different versions (the changes were to the rubber bushing) but are you sure about what you said? Or are you talking about different (but compatible) bars between pre-facelift and post-facelift? This is total news to me.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
I have the part numbers at work, I don't remember the exact diameters, but it looks like they played with the thickness just a bit over the years. If you pull the front bar for the C32 in EPC, you will see that the part number has been superseded a couple of times. If you look at the descriptions, specifically the diameter you will see they bounced around a bit. I will try to post the numbers and diameters tomorrow when I get to work if time permits.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
AMG Sways
The original C32 bar appears to be A2033233165 which as a diameter of 22mm. This is through Chassis F449274, date 06/15/2003. It was replaced by A2033233265 that has a diameter of 23mm.
The 23mm bar shows “through” the same Chassis and date. It is again superseded by A2033234465, which again has a diameter of 22mm.
If I am reading right, it looks like the ...4465 bar uses the 12mm end links (A2033202989) and is the same bar that is shown for the sports package for the C class.
That is all listed under the C32 in the EPC, the differences could be around the bushing and face lift issue, I'm not sure. I am by no means an expert on reading EPC, but it looks to me like they played with the 23mm bar for a bit in production, but standardized across the board with the 22mm bar and end links.
I believe our stock bar is 20mm. I only glanced at the rear bars today, but if I remember right there was not the variation in them. The EPC doesn’t list the diameters. They do not supersede part numbers, but do make some part number changes at different dates.
Interestingly the C55 lists A2093230065 that has a 23mm diameter up to one date and then A2033234365 (21mm dia) and A2033234465 (22mm dia) for different build dates. It looks somewhat like the 21mm bar was used in some special configuration. It does not supersede one part number here for another, so I would suspect these two won’t direct swap, but it would be interesting to lay the 23mm bar and the 22mm bar side by side and see.
I have now exhausted my knowledge. Maybe someone knows the real answers? Just what it looks like to me.
The 23mm bar shows “through” the same Chassis and date. It is again superseded by A2033234465, which again has a diameter of 22mm.
If I am reading right, it looks like the ...4465 bar uses the 12mm end links (A2033202989) and is the same bar that is shown for the sports package for the C class.
That is all listed under the C32 in the EPC, the differences could be around the bushing and face lift issue, I'm not sure. I am by no means an expert on reading EPC, but it looks to me like they played with the 23mm bar for a bit in production, but standardized across the board with the 22mm bar and end links.
I believe our stock bar is 20mm. I only glanced at the rear bars today, but if I remember right there was not the variation in them. The EPC doesn’t list the diameters. They do not supersede part numbers, but do make some part number changes at different dates.
Interestingly the C55 lists A2093230065 that has a 23mm diameter up to one date and then A2033234365 (21mm dia) and A2033234465 (22mm dia) for different build dates. It looks somewhat like the 21mm bar was used in some special configuration. It does not supersede one part number here for another, so I would suspect these two won’t direct swap, but it would be interesting to lay the 23mm bar and the 22mm bar side by side and see.
I have now exhausted my knowledge. Maybe someone knows the real answers? Just what it looks like to me.
Last edited by MW_ATL; 05-17-2010 at 08:57 PM.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Roof Rack
Back in March I finally got the basic carrier for the car. It has been discussed many times on the forum, but I am posting the part number just in case anyone searches. The MB Part number for the Coupe is B66850257. The basic rack carrier for the Sedan is B66850255.
Now...if someone knows where to get a pair of MB bicycle carriers cheap?
Now...if someone knows where to get a pair of MB bicycle carriers cheap?
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Pedal Part Numbers
Ok, finally pulled up the part numbers for the pedals:
Throttle: A2113001404
Brake (Automatic): A1702900182
Parking Brake: A2034300084
Throttle: A2113001404
Brake (Automatic): A1702900182
Parking Brake: A2034300084
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
I happened to notice when the car rolled over on 125K on the way home yesterday. Missed it by just a bit with the camera, but I was closer than I was with the 100K. It is still running strong.
I do hope to get the C7 wheels on it sometime in the next couple of months, then I will have to hunt for the body color door handles.
I do hope to get the C7 wheels on it sometime in the next couple of months, then I will have to hunt for the body color door handles.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Sometimes life just makes you wonder. I got behind my "twin" driving home from work the other day and had to snap a picture. We actually stayed together for about 15 minutes, before I stopped at a gas station. Whoever owns it had taken the C230 and Kompressor badges off the rear, and it had the charcoal interior.
This happens much more frequently for you sedan people, but for those of us with Coupe's, it is a bit on the rare side.
This happens much more frequently for you sedan people, but for those of us with Coupe's, it is a bit on the rare side.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Baby Got New Shoes
129,000 miles and it was finally time for new tires, and that means it was time to on put the C7 rims I had refinished a while back.
I always liked these wheels, and liked the idea of going to the 17 inch wheel. I know, most people would have jumped to an 18 inch aftermarket rim, but I have always really liked these.
I put Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus (225/45/ZR17 91Y) tires on the car. They look good, but looking at them next to my wife's car, I actually noticed how similar the tread pattern is to the Khumo Ecsta ASX's.
I always liked these wheels, and liked the idea of going to the 17 inch wheel. I know, most people would have jumped to an 18 inch aftermarket rim, but I have always really liked these.
I put Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus (225/45/ZR17 91Y) tires on the car. They look good, but looking at them next to my wife's car, I actually noticed how similar the tread pattern is to the Khumo Ecsta ASX's.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Still going strong.
I got the original headlights polished last week along with changing fluids in the transmission and the differential. I have finally decided on the next project, which will be going to either 2004.5 front brakes, or the C32 front brakes. The 2004.5 are the most likely choice.
I got the original headlights polished last week along with changing fluids in the transmission and the differential. I have finally decided on the next project, which will be going to either 2004.5 front brakes, or the C32 front brakes. The 2004.5 are the most likely choice.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
New Torsion Bars
My weekend project:
Most everyone here knows a lot of this, but just for completeness...
After pulling together all the information I could find, I pulled the trigger on AMG sway bars. However, the front C32 bars that are available are 22mm bars, but the C55 lists 23mm bars. Running VINs on the C55s show that most of them seem to have been built using the C32 22mm front bars, which has lead to the concept that they were never built that way. However, the bar was used on CLK55s and is available from Mercedes. The biggest concern that I had was the idea that the C55 might have a slightly wider front track or the bar a different bend. Everyone seemed to use C32 bars. I decided to order one and try it.
The C32 and C55 used larger end-links 12mm, vs 10mm. This means that you have a 12mm hole in the end of the bar. There are three options: 1) do nothing and have slop in the end of the bar (which to me would negate some of the effect of the new bar) 2: Have a shim machined to bring that hole down to the 10mm, or 3: install the upgraded end-links (which requires drilling out the 10mm hole on the shock mount to 12mm). I chose to use the larger end-links. I think the face-lift sports went to the 12mm end-links, but am not sure.
Here are the two end-links side by side:
The rear bar was a similar situation: A 17mm rear bar, but it also crossed to the CLK63, Everything indicated that the CLK63 bars would fit, but that the CLK63 Black Series bars would not.
I ordered:
Rear Torsion Bar: 2093260165 17mm rear torsion bar
Bushings: 2033261281 The bushings for the larger bar
Front Torsion Bar: 2093230165 23mm front torsion bar
Retaining Bracket: 2033232740
12mm End-Links: 2033202989
The retaining bracket may or may not be needed in a particular car, they used two different designs, and my car happened to have the other. I ordered them in any case, just to make sure I had what I needed. I also ordered bolts just in case I rounded one off, etc.
The installation overall was simple. For the front, remove the six 8mm bolts holding the under-body covering on. Then use a jack at the front center front jack point to lift the car and place jack stands under the front jack points and removed the front wheels.
Then I removed the end-links from the bar, and the struts. I don’t remember the size of the stock nuts for the end-links, but you had to use a 7mm wrench or socket to counter hold the bolts while you loosened the nut.
Once they were loose, I removed the carrier for the stock torsion bar, and removed the torsion bar itself. These used E12 inverted torx, or star sockets. Much to my pleasure they were exactly the same bends, a perfect swap.
I drilled the strut mounts out for the new end-links, and painted the holes to help prevent rusting. Once the paint dried, I installed the new end-links. They use a T-40 torx to counter-hold them while tightening the nut, but once you get them mostly tight, they can be torqued to the proper settings with a torque wrench.
Before they were drilled:
After I drilled:
And painted:
Putting the front bar in place, I found it easiest to just start the bolts for the retaining brackets, then get the end-links fastened. I torqued the end-links, but left the retaining brackets a bit loose until the car was back with the weight on the front wheels. Then I torqued them down and reinstalled the under-body covers.
The rear was similar, jacking the car up and putting jack stands under the jack points. One thing that I did not expect doing this was that the under-body covers would cover the bottom bolts for the brackets; however, removing the rear four nuts holding it on allowed it to hang down enough for me to work.
I took both rear wheels off just to give me a bit more working room. The WIS says to loosen the exhaust, but I found that the bar would easily maneuver out if you pulled it out to the right rear of the car. The new bar went in the reverse.
This is a change I should have made a long time ago, and was a significant improvement in the car as a daily driver. It feels considerably more connected to the road and much more like what I am used to driving. I don’t track it, so I am not pushing the limits, but the car always felt soft.
If I had to change cars, this would be one of the first things I would do with the new one.
Most everyone here knows a lot of this, but just for completeness...
After pulling together all the information I could find, I pulled the trigger on AMG sway bars. However, the front C32 bars that are available are 22mm bars, but the C55 lists 23mm bars. Running VINs on the C55s show that most of them seem to have been built using the C32 22mm front bars, which has lead to the concept that they were never built that way. However, the bar was used on CLK55s and is available from Mercedes. The biggest concern that I had was the idea that the C55 might have a slightly wider front track or the bar a different bend. Everyone seemed to use C32 bars. I decided to order one and try it.
The C32 and C55 used larger end-links 12mm, vs 10mm. This means that you have a 12mm hole in the end of the bar. There are three options: 1) do nothing and have slop in the end of the bar (which to me would negate some of the effect of the new bar) 2: Have a shim machined to bring that hole down to the 10mm, or 3: install the upgraded end-links (which requires drilling out the 10mm hole on the shock mount to 12mm). I chose to use the larger end-links. I think the face-lift sports went to the 12mm end-links, but am not sure.
Here are the two end-links side by side:
The rear bar was a similar situation: A 17mm rear bar, but it also crossed to the CLK63, Everything indicated that the CLK63 bars would fit, but that the CLK63 Black Series bars would not.
I ordered:
Rear Torsion Bar: 2093260165 17mm rear torsion bar
Bushings: 2033261281 The bushings for the larger bar
Front Torsion Bar: 2093230165 23mm front torsion bar
Retaining Bracket: 2033232740
12mm End-Links: 2033202989
The retaining bracket may or may not be needed in a particular car, they used two different designs, and my car happened to have the other. I ordered them in any case, just to make sure I had what I needed. I also ordered bolts just in case I rounded one off, etc.
The installation overall was simple. For the front, remove the six 8mm bolts holding the under-body covering on. Then use a jack at the front center front jack point to lift the car and place jack stands under the front jack points and removed the front wheels.
Then I removed the end-links from the bar, and the struts. I don’t remember the size of the stock nuts for the end-links, but you had to use a 7mm wrench or socket to counter hold the bolts while you loosened the nut.
Once they were loose, I removed the carrier for the stock torsion bar, and removed the torsion bar itself. These used E12 inverted torx, or star sockets. Much to my pleasure they were exactly the same bends, a perfect swap.
I drilled the strut mounts out for the new end-links, and painted the holes to help prevent rusting. Once the paint dried, I installed the new end-links. They use a T-40 torx to counter-hold them while tightening the nut, but once you get them mostly tight, they can be torqued to the proper settings with a torque wrench.
Before they were drilled:
After I drilled:
And painted:
Putting the front bar in place, I found it easiest to just start the bolts for the retaining brackets, then get the end-links fastened. I torqued the end-links, but left the retaining brackets a bit loose until the car was back with the weight on the front wheels. Then I torqued them down and reinstalled the under-body covers.
The rear was similar, jacking the car up and putting jack stands under the jack points. One thing that I did not expect doing this was that the under-body covers would cover the bottom bolts for the brackets; however, removing the rear four nuts holding it on allowed it to hang down enough for me to work.
I took both rear wheels off just to give me a bit more working room. The WIS says to loosen the exhaust, but I found that the bar would easily maneuver out if you pulled it out to the right rear of the car. The new bar went in the reverse.
This is a change I should have made a long time ago, and was a significant improvement in the car as a daily driver. It feels considerably more connected to the road and much more like what I am used to driving. I don’t track it, so I am not pushing the limits, but the car always felt soft.
If I had to change cars, this would be one of the first things I would do with the new one.
#64
Senior Member
My weekend project:
Most everyone here knows a lot of this, but just for completeness...
After pulling together all the information I could find, I pulled the trigger on AMG sway bars. However, the front C32 bars that are available are 22mm bars, but the C55 lists 23mm bars. Running VINs on the C55s show that most of them seem to have been built using the C32 22mm front bars, which has lead to the concept that they were never built that way. However, the bar was used on CLK55s and is available from Mercedes. The biggest concern that I had was the idea that the C55 might have a slightly wider front track or the bar a different bend. Everyone seemed to use C32 bars. I decided to order one and try it.
The C32 and C55 used larger end-links 12mm, vs 10mm. This means that you have a 12mm hole in the end of the bar. There are three options: 1) do nothing and have slop in the end of the bar (which to me would negate some of the effect of the new bar) 2: Have a shim machined to bring that hole down to the 10mm, or 3: install the upgraded end-links (which requires drilling out the 10mm hole on the shock mount to 12mm). I chose to use the larger end-links. I think the face-lift sports went to the 12mm end-links, but am not sure.
Here are the two end-links side by side:
The rear bar was a similar situation: A 17mm rear bar, but it also crossed to the CLK63, Everything indicated that the CLK63 bars would fit, but that the CLK63 Black Series bars would not.
I ordered:
Rear Torsion Bar: 2093260165 17mm rear torsion bar
Bushings: 2033261281 The bushings for the larger bar
Front Torsion Bar: 2093230165 23mm front torsion bar
Retaining Bracket: 2033232740
12mm End-Links: 2033202989
The retaining bracket may or may not be needed in a particular car, they used two different designs, and my car happened to have the other. I ordered them in any case, just to make sure I had what I needed. I also ordered bolts just in case I rounded one off, etc.
The installation overall was simple. For the front, remove the six 8mm bolts holding the under-body covering on. Then use a jack at the front center front jack point to lift the car and place jack stands under the front jack points and removed the front wheels.
Then I removed the end-links from the bar, and the struts. I don’t remember the size of the stock nuts for the end-links, but you had to use a 7mm wrench or socket to counter hold the bolts while you loosened the nut.
Once they were loose, I removed the carrier for the stock torsion bar, and removed the torsion bar itself. These used E12 inverted torx, or star sockets. Much to my pleasure they were exactly the same bends, a perfect swap.
I drilled the strut mounts out for the new end-links, and painted the holes to help prevent rusting. Once the paint dried, I installed the new end-links. They use a T-40 torx to counter-hold them while tightening the nut, but once you get them mostly tight, they can be torqued to the proper settings with a torque wrench.
Before they were drilled:
After I drilled:
And painted:
Putting the front bar in place, I found it easiest to just start the bolts for the retaining brackets, then get the end-links fastened. I torqued the end-links, but left the retaining brackets a bit loose until the car was back with the weight on the front wheels. Then I torqued them down and reinstalled the under-body covers.
The rear was similar, jacking the car up and putting jack stands under the jack points. One thing that I did not expect doing this was that the under-body covers would cover the bottom bolts for the brackets; however, removing the rear four nuts holding it on allowed it to hang down enough for me to work.
I took both rear wheels off just to give me a bit more working room. The WIS says to loosen the exhaust, but I found that the bar would easily maneuver out if you pulled it out to the right rear of the car. The new bar went in the reverse.
This is a change I should have made a long time ago, and was a significant improvement in the car as a daily driver. It feels considerably more connected to the road and much more like what I am used to driving. I don’t track it, so I am not pushing the limits, but the car always felt soft.
If I had to change cars, this would be one of the first things I would do with the new one.
Most everyone here knows a lot of this, but just for completeness...
After pulling together all the information I could find, I pulled the trigger on AMG sway bars. However, the front C32 bars that are available are 22mm bars, but the C55 lists 23mm bars. Running VINs on the C55s show that most of them seem to have been built using the C32 22mm front bars, which has lead to the concept that they were never built that way. However, the bar was used on CLK55s and is available from Mercedes. The biggest concern that I had was the idea that the C55 might have a slightly wider front track or the bar a different bend. Everyone seemed to use C32 bars. I decided to order one and try it.
The C32 and C55 used larger end-links 12mm, vs 10mm. This means that you have a 12mm hole in the end of the bar. There are three options: 1) do nothing and have slop in the end of the bar (which to me would negate some of the effect of the new bar) 2: Have a shim machined to bring that hole down to the 10mm, or 3: install the upgraded end-links (which requires drilling out the 10mm hole on the shock mount to 12mm). I chose to use the larger end-links. I think the face-lift sports went to the 12mm end-links, but am not sure.
Here are the two end-links side by side:
The rear bar was a similar situation: A 17mm rear bar, but it also crossed to the CLK63, Everything indicated that the CLK63 bars would fit, but that the CLK63 Black Series bars would not.
I ordered:
Rear Torsion Bar: 2093260165 17mm rear torsion bar
Bushings: 2033261281 The bushings for the larger bar
Front Torsion Bar: 2093230165 23mm front torsion bar
Retaining Bracket: 2033232740
12mm End-Links: 2033202989
The retaining bracket may or may not be needed in a particular car, they used two different designs, and my car happened to have the other. I ordered them in any case, just to make sure I had what I needed. I also ordered bolts just in case I rounded one off, etc.
The installation overall was simple. For the front, remove the six 8mm bolts holding the under-body covering on. Then use a jack at the front center front jack point to lift the car and place jack stands under the front jack points and removed the front wheels.
Then I removed the end-links from the bar, and the struts. I don’t remember the size of the stock nuts for the end-links, but you had to use a 7mm wrench or socket to counter hold the bolts while you loosened the nut.
Once they were loose, I removed the carrier for the stock torsion bar, and removed the torsion bar itself. These used E12 inverted torx, or star sockets. Much to my pleasure they were exactly the same bends, a perfect swap.
I drilled the strut mounts out for the new end-links, and painted the holes to help prevent rusting. Once the paint dried, I installed the new end-links. They use a T-40 torx to counter-hold them while tightening the nut, but once you get them mostly tight, they can be torqued to the proper settings with a torque wrench.
Before they were drilled:
After I drilled:
And painted:
Putting the front bar in place, I found it easiest to just start the bolts for the retaining brackets, then get the end-links fastened. I torqued the end-links, but left the retaining brackets a bit loose until the car was back with the weight on the front wheels. Then I torqued them down and reinstalled the under-body covers.
The rear was similar, jacking the car up and putting jack stands under the jack points. One thing that I did not expect doing this was that the under-body covers would cover the bottom bolts for the brackets; however, removing the rear four nuts holding it on allowed it to hang down enough for me to work.
I took both rear wheels off just to give me a bit more working room. The WIS says to loosen the exhaust, but I found that the bar would easily maneuver out if you pulled it out to the right rear of the car. The new bar went in the reverse.
This is a change I should have made a long time ago, and was a significant improvement in the car as a daily driver. It feels considerably more connected to the road and much more like what I am used to driving. I don’t track it, so I am not pushing the limits, but the car always felt soft.
If I had to change cars, this would be one of the first things I would do with the new one.
Thanks for the great information, and part numbers.
If you had to do it again, I know that these coupe's need a big bar in the back.
If fact the H&R that SportCoup recommends is 19mm.
Would you use the C32 22mm front, or the 23mm one that you used?
Thanks,
Dave
#66
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
I also limited myself to using MB parts -- for no real reason other that my own amusement, sort of what could I do if I had access the the parts bin. Without that limitation, I would probably have tried the 23mm front, and the H&R 19mm rear. I have been tempted to try that anyway, but I don't think I would notice any real benefit with how I use the car.
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C230 K Coupe (05)
Repost from: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4710962
Hey, there is no drilling required for the rear bar installation right?
All I need is the:
C32 Sway Bar (16mm): 203-326-15-65 x1
12mm endlink: 203-320-29-89 x2
Bushings: 203-326-12-81 x2
TIA
Hey, there is no drilling required for the rear bar installation right?
All I need is the:
C32 Sway Bar (16mm): 203-326-15-65 x1
12mm endlink: 203-320-29-89 x2
Bushings: 203-326-12-81 x2
TIA
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
No drilling for the rear, and I didn't have to change the end-links for the rear bars, only for the front.
Just make sure you have the reverse-torx sockets to make your life easy.
Just make sure you have the reverse-torx sockets to make your life easy.
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C230 K Coupe (05)
Thanks. Will try to see if my endlinks are the right size this weekend. What size should they be? 12mm or 10mm is ok?
#70
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
I honestly don't remember. I checked the part numbers in EPC for the rear links and the preface lift, post facelift, C32 and C55 all used the same. The fronts are where you see the difference.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Well, just to catch this thread up and close out a bit. at 190,000 miles I have done almost everything I wanted with the car, except BI-Xenon headlights, and was well on my way to doing that at with the headlight washers and auto-leveling retrofit. A couple of pictures....
#73
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Ah, black steering wheel...must be an early 2001 mfg. as they went to matching wheel
very soon after, but the brochure has black wheel on grey interior.
Also see you had the SL ebrake pad mod....almost forgot about that one
since they came with a black rubber pad.
Or perhaps you did all the pedals since it doesn't look like you had C7 package.
Well, sorry to see you sold.
Forgive me but the Volt is just butt ugly, but certain the idea of going 40 miles without has is appealing. Of course you need a place to plug in so no good in an apt.
very soon after, but the brochure has black wheel on grey interior.
Also see you had the SL ebrake pad mod....almost forgot about that one
since they came with a black rubber pad.
Or perhaps you did all the pedals since it doesn't look like you had C7 package.
Well, sorry to see you sold.
Forgive me but the Volt is just butt ugly, but certain the idea of going 40 miles without has is appealing. Of course you need a place to plug in so no good in an apt.
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'02 C230 Coupe (Me) '03 SLK320 6MT (Wife)
Actually the more I looked at them the more appealing I found them. And, considering I have done 381 miles and 3.56 gallons of gas - I am smiling.
Yep you are right, took delivery on August 9, 2002, it was one of the very early one in the U.S. - and with leather it was unusual for a bit. I will fess up and say it did not come with the C7 package, but it left my possession with it. Except for the door handles. I tried them blue and just didn't like it - for some reason I liked the contrast with the black handles.
You can drive one on gas all the time, and let it just regenerate and use what battery it can, but if you are doing that a Prius will get you better mileage overall. But I am surprised, being out on the West Coast like you are, there are seems to be a lot of emphasis on letting owners setup charging places even in Apartments and such.
Yep you are right, took delivery on August 9, 2002, it was one of the very early one in the U.S. - and with leather it was unusual for a bit. I will fess up and say it did not come with the C7 package, but it left my possession with it. Except for the door handles. I tried them blue and just didn't like it - for some reason I liked the contrast with the black handles.
You can drive one on gas all the time, and let it just regenerate and use what battery it can, but if you are doing that a Prius will get you better mileage overall. But I am surprised, being out on the West Coast like you are, there are seems to be a lot of emphasis on letting owners setup charging places even in Apartments and such.
#75
Thanks due to MW_ATL
MW_ATL - many thanks for your posts on BAS error & photos of how to take panel off & replace brake light switch. I was quoted silly money here in the UK just to have garage look at the problem when the error message came up. A quick google brought up the many comments and diagnoses suggesting fix the brake light switch first. I checked and cruise control wasn't working either so was pretty sure it fitted the symptoms. A call to my local MB Parts dealer found the switch for £15.72, 30mins of fiddling and the problem solved. Shows the power of the web and of the MB community. Sorry this isn't in the right thread but if you're leaving wanted to catch you if I could.
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