phoenix_iii

I just picked up a 2002 C230 with 88k on the clock. Auto trans.

Four New Wheels, Four New Tires, Alignment, and a FULL 90k service (all fluids, all filters, good times).


Car originally pulled to the right when I got it. It had two bent wheels, and one of the tires had a bubble. All replaced and should be fine, so I thought.

I started this thread. --> https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...lls-right.html[Would like your opinion - New Wheels, Tires, Alignment, car still pulls right]

Car still pulls to the right. Alignment spec'd out correctly according to the MB Indy shop I went to.

Pulled out the laser thermometer after 10 miles trip. I have a temperature discrepancy (in Fahrenheit, so not very much, but enough). Front Right is about 8degrees warmer than front left (measuring at the same spot on the caliper), and rear left is about 2.5 degrees warmer than rear right. This would be one 'circuit', to my understanding, the front right and rear left are on one circuit, and the complementary wheels on the other.

What's interesting, is, at times, if in 'drive', and going from completed stop to just barely in motion, if I keep easing off of the brakes, then brake on, I can get the steering wheel to go to the one o'clock position (very visably off/out of alignment), after having been perfectly in the middle (noon). Sometimes it will just 'shake' or tremor in place [briefly, just in the time from barely rolling to 'full stop'], but I have had it MOVE from noon to 1 o'clock by doing this stop/go slow shaking in place braking several times in a row (3 to 5). To me, this would show that the front right (And rear left it seems) are grabbing ahead of, or are just barely rubbing, causing the drift.

Pads look NEW around the car, tons of meat, so maybe recently changed and later on it would show a discrepancy in use. I am also sure the Indy shop would have liked to have gotten me for new pads.

Tires and wheels were mounted and balanced by the tirerack using excellent equipment, so I mean, I 'could' try swapping wheels around (they are all the oem standard size, unidirectional though).

I've never had this happen before on any car... Is there something else I should be looking at? Should I bring the car to the indy place and have them clean and lube the calipers? They use slide pins, right? Would some one knowledgable recommend any tests I should perform, or need to see a video of the steering wheel 'moving' by the stopped/ 'barely braking' technique?

phoenix_iii

Playing around in the parking lot. Car at first was not consistent. I got some good even braking... though still tailed to the right flat parking lot.... but it did seem that after it got warm and hot, it would do the pulling thing.


Also, who knew the display turns crazy red when putting the parking brake on while going 5mph. Neat. =)

phoenix_iii

I still think this holds to key to my alignment/drifting problem. Help?

phoenix_iii

Wow. I tried something different. Applying the brakes at about 50% (I've always done smooth stops since getting the car), I get a loud KNOCK from under the car (just once). Worried about Breaking Something! Going to go to the dealer, not sure what it could even be! Can't believe the indy shop missed this...

Glyn M Ruck

Check the rear transmission mount, PS center bearing & flex discs on the propshaft.

phoenix_iii

Oy, that makes sense. Just stinks because it does not help with my uneven braking... and will just cost $ and not 'fix' my problem. =( Needs to be done though...