Am I able to add an aftermarket subwoofer?
Thanks for any help.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_3629wt_835
it actually is the high to low adapter. lol
i have an 2007 cdi200,with comand and want to improve the bass response, particularly at the lounder end, so having had a poke around the car, i find out the following (i think!)
1 there are no 'pre-outs'on the comand unit
2 there are no speakers on the rear deck, despite there being speaker grilles
3 there appears to be a structure in place on the rear desk for a sub-woofer (there's a round hole, with supports - about 10" i think)
4 there's also a 'hole' where an amp might go.
i really want to retain the interior look of the car so had planned the following:
1 upgrade front door speakers & tweeters (any suggestions? what size? how do i remove door trim?)
2 plug in a subwoofer. my pref would be to get something sitting on the rear shelf, wither active or a separate amp - any suggestionos? would a blaupunkt thb200a fit? anyone tried it? are they any good? the other option was to put a Fli Trap 10" active enclosure in the boot, but would prefer the unseen option.
finally, finally, finally, does anyone have any comments about using a speaker level output to power an active sub? i've heard they can be inferior and they pick up interference?
any suggestions welcome.
thanks
Heres pics.

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Also, when I got my amp installed initially, the shop did not listen to my instructions to tap the signal off of the factory subwoofer. They tapped it off of my rear right speaker, and that speaker was blown within 1 week and had to be replaced. After having them rewire it to the factory subwoofer, the bass is much cleaner. It was the extra load on the rear right speaker from powering the speaker plus feeding a signal to the line output converter is what caused the speaker to blow. When an amplifier is under a high load that it cannot handle, then it will start "clipping", which is when the amp starts sending out dirty output (wattage) to the speakers, which will blow the voice coil. Most people that blow out speakers is caused by trying to push more wattage out of an amp than it is designed to do.
It sounds like you need to adjust the gains on your amplifier if the bass is too loud. Once you get the wiring fixed, the best way to adjust the subwoofer is to turn down the gain on your subwoofer amplifier all the way down, then turn on a song at the loudest volume level you can go without any distortion from your speakers, and then turn the gain up on your subwoofer amp until you reach the desired level of bass. You will find however that at low to medium volume levels, your subwoofers will tend to overpower your stereo. That is a characteristic you will have to live with, as this is normal when you use a line output converter to provide a signal to your amp. If you had a headunit with RCA outputs, then you wouldn't have this problem. What I do is use the fader to adjust the bass level.
Last edited by XenonBenz; Aug 25, 2009 at 11:23 PM.
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nice install btw. now this might be a bit off topic. I have a 2005 c230 with the H/K system. The system is ok, but the factory woofer vibrates the rear shelf like crazy! even with the bass set at 0, it rattles like crazy. I tried putting some pressure with my hand and i turned the bass up to like 8 and it actually puts out decent bass! i just need to somehow get rid of the vibration. I tried sending to the dealer when i still had warranty, but they were unable to find any problems. Now that I am out of warranty I will take it upon myself to find a way. I need my trunk space so an aftermarket box is out of question sadly. My questions is: is there a how to on taking the rear deck apart? i wanna stuff some dynamat or something in there so i can get rid of that annoying vibration!
nice install btw. now this might be a bit off topic. I have a 2005 c230 with the H/K system. The system is ok, but the factory woofer vibrates the rear shelf like crazy! even with the bass set at 0, it rattles like crazy. I tried putting some pressure with my hand and i turned the bass up to like 8 and it actually puts out decent bass! i just need to somehow get rid of the vibration. I tried sending to the dealer when i still had warranty, but they were unable to find any problems. Now that I am out of warranty I will take it upon myself to find a way. I need my trunk space so an aftermarket box is out of question sadly. My questions is: is there a how to on taking the rear deck apart? i wanna stuff some dynamat or something in there so i can get rid of that annoying vibration!
On a side note, what I found to work the best for the sub woofer signal with the H/K system is to tap both the sub signal and a rear speaker. I have tried with just the sub, and that left out some higher frequencies. Using just the rear signal left out the lower frequencies. I taped both so that Ch.1 was the sub, and Ch.2 was the rear. I then bridged the two channels (to get the full power of the amp) which mixed the two signals into one. That gave me a spectrum that more than covered the range of the sub. That allowed me to adjust the crossover frequency on the amp to the limit of the sub covering its entire range. I only have one sub, but it could work with two subs. The two subs will need to be two 2 ohm subs wired in series for 4 ohms. It is not recommended to bridge two channels with less than 4 ohms, as that actually brings it to less than 2 ohms per channel, which is the limit on most amps.
On a side note, what I found to work the best for the sub woofer signal with the H/K system is to tap both the sub signal and a rear speaker. I have tried with just the sub, and that left out some higher frequencies. Using just the rear signal left out the lower frequencies. I taped both so that Ch.1 was the sub, and Ch.2 was the rear. I then bridged the two channels (to get the full power of the amp) which mixed the two signals into one. That gave me a spectrum that more than covered the range of the sub. That allowed me to adjust the crossover frequency on the amp to the limit of the sub covering its entire range. I only have one sub, but it could work with two subs. The two subs will need to be two 2 ohm subs wired in series for 4 ohms. It is not recommended to bridge two channels with less than 4 ohms, as that actually brings it to less than 2 ohms per channel, which is the limit on most amps.



