BlackC230Coupe

Well i had a cordless bell 946i radar but i took it out of my car the other day to replace the batterys and i droped it and it cracked and does not turn on. Well i ordered a new radar (not cordless) and a hardwire cable. My only question is what do i need to connect the positive wire into the fuse box. the ground will be easy i just dont understand what i need to attatch a wire to an empty fuse slot. I saw some old threads about this but they did not really answer my questions. MB-BOB your welcome to respond because i saw alot of your replies about these installs.

Also, i went to radoshack today and they told me to but these things??????????? i am going to return them becuase i dont think its what i need. here a pic but this will do nothing for a wire to be able to stick into an empty fuse slot.

thanks

Blaxer

You might want to take a look at my post here.

http://www.csportcoupe.com/forums/sh...ighlight=gtech

Not sure if you have a coupe, but this has worked out really well for me. it's wired to the dome light control module. I can give you more details if you like.


Blax...

Wheens

Blaxer
I'm still unsure whether that circuit can handle a detector's amperage needs. I don't know what a detector draws, but isn't the circuit you hooked into made up of very small wires?

Rick

BEL radar detectors have a fuse in the cig. lighter adapter. I'm told this is absolutely necessary for MB products.
Car stereo stores that do installs carry whats called a "Fuse Tap". These come in 5 or 10 packs, and fit into the spade slot (#7) in the rear hatch area of the coupe. It acts as a fuse itself (I got the 15 amp version...just to be sure).
Here's what I did:
-Place the fuse tap in circuit 7 in the rear hatch fuse block
-Connect a dual lead wire with snap terminals to the fuse tap and one of the wire leads and snap them together(this makes for easier replacement if you need to replace the fuse tap)
-Connect the second wire lead to a loop terminal and attach to any metalic surface in the rear panel
-Run the wire along the floor board all the way to the front drivers footwell and press under the carpet edge
-Attach a cigarette lighter socket to + and - with snap terminals (I cut one of those cheesey cig. lighter 1-2 splitters and used one of them)
-Place the radar detector where you want it, then carefully run the cig. adapter wire that came with the detector across the molding at the top edge of the windshield, then down under the A pillar molding to the left of the dash and plug it in to the socket you just installed.
USE A CREDIT CARD TO SLIP THE WIRE UNDER THE TOP AND A PILLAR MOLDINGS! Pulling them away can easily break the plastic retaining clips that hold them in place.

Blaxer

Yes, they are probably 24 guage wires although that should be more than enough for a radar detector. If you are worried though you could use a relay, there is a large guage constant voltage wire up in there.


Interesting anecdode or not. I was at the shop last week with the car and the foreman was so interested in the Gtech he told the service rep to call me so he could ask me where he could get one. While we were talking he mentioned that he removed the dome light assembly to see how I wired it. I didn't get the usual thumbs down on this one hehehe :-)

BlackC230Coupe

I dont really understand what you mean by running a dual lead wire and the part where your said about the cigarette lighter adapter. It may not be needed for me though.

Here is what i will have. Its a cobra radar that i bought and i ordered a 9ft. long hardwire cable for it. The guy told me that the cable has a fuse inline. Well the one side of the cable will insert into the radar detector, which is very easy. I will be fine hiding the wire to the rear hatch. When i am there i will only have a negative and a positive wires, 1 each. I will attach the negative wire to the ground screw close by to the fuse panal. Heres where i am stuck. I will have 1 positive wire and i need to know how to stick it in to the #7 fuse slot. Will the adapter you said do it or is there anything else i can just attach the positive wire to so it can go into the slot.


thanks.

sorry if i missunderstand anything but i've never done this before.

Rick

dual lead wires...think "speaker wire" or some other 2 wire setup on a single spool

MB-BOB

The Radio Shack that sold you all that unecessary stuff also sells brass fuse taps that fit over the lug on a standard plactic fusee. They come 3-4 to a card, and are real cheap. These brass jobs are also usable by themselves. Just solder the positive lead to one and plug it into slot #7.

Also, no need to run both wires to the trunk. If they come as twin leads then it makes sense. But you can just as easily run a short ground wire to the drivers fuse box ground, and then run just the positive to the trunk. The single wire is easier to stuff under the moldings than a double wire.

As some of you know, I'm NOT a fan of tapping into the cig lighter or the dome light. The electrical systems in these cars is very complicated and the fewer cut splices into factory wiring the better. The wire to the trunk is a standalone solution that doesn't touch any other wiring, and can easily be removed before selling the car later.

BlackC230Coupe

Is there anyother thing but the fuse taps i can get to stick into the #7 fuse slot without sodering? If not then i guess i will just go pick that up and return the stuff they told me to get.


thanks for the help.

MB-BOB

OK, no soldering... You could run to Pep Boys and ask for quick-connect, solderless spade lug connecters (think that's the correct term). Crimp one of the Male connectors to your wire... you may have to file some thickness away

BlackC230Coupe

Ok, i am going to go pick that up tomarrow. But is there anything like the brass fuse taps that will just go into the slot without any filing that will be needed.

thanks again

Rick

The fuse tap I used is literally a fuse with a wire lead attached to it...it fits right into slot 7.

BlackC230 - E-mail me...I'll send you one

BlackC230Coupe

thanks, i emailed you.

firstkill

you can also do it the ghetto way....take a normal fuse... shave off the power wire from the radar dector.. wrap the wire around the teeth of fuse and plug it in...

it works

~fk

BlackC230Coupe

lol, i would give my self a couple hours till something blew in the fuse box if i did it that way.

BlackC230Coupe

Ok well i just picked up this "Add a Circuit" device at pep boys. Will this work? It goes right into a fuse slot and it has 2 built in slots on it so that if you were putting it in a existing fuse slot it would not use it up. It also has one more slot for the existing accessory, and it has one positive lead wire connected. My only question is will this work? and if it does is it ok to leave the 2 slots on the top empty? or will it not work that way? the hardwire cable i have ordered has a fuse inline so keep that in mind.
One last thing, i dont know the difference between volts and amps, so please help me out on that, this "Add a Circuit" says NOT TO EXCEED 10 VOLTS. Will that be ok for the radar?

thanks

Rick

Probably says DO NOT EXCEED 10 AMPS (not volts....cars are 12 volt systems)

BlackC230Coupe

Sorry about that i ment AMPS.


My hardwire cable should be here monday, but i need 1 question answered. Will this "add a curcuit" work without a fuses in the slots? I'm guessing yes but i would just like to know for sure.

thanks

Rick

No....you need two fuses in it to complete both circuits. Without these fuses, it wont work because there's an open circuit.
The way it works:
Add-a-circuit replaces any existing fuse in your fuse box. This (less than) <10 amp fuse should be placed in the fuse slot on Add-a-cicuit that does not have the wire next to it.
The other slot with the wire also needs a <10 amp fuse so you can attach the radar detector wire to it.

BlackC230Coupe

why am i needing fuses this way if the way MB-BOB told me does not have any fuse at all?

And i still need 2 fuses in the slots even if the hardwire cable has a built in fuse in the line? i dont want to overload this curcuit.

But if the fuses are needed is it ok to put a 3 amp fuse in the slot with the wire going to it and a 5 amp fuse to the slot with no wire?

thanks, i apprechiate your help because i am a little confused.

Rick

1) a fused circuit looks like this ____
with a fuse to complete this circuit, electrical current can flow from the fuse box to your detector
2) no fuse (or blown fuse) looks like this __ \__
with an incomplete circuit, no electicity will get to your detector
3) you bought a device that adds a second fuse where it was assumed one fuse would go...hence the name. Anyway, both those circuits need to be complete.
The fuse tap I would have sent you is a single fuse with a wire lead. This would slot into circuit 7 (filling the blank) and give you similar results.
Try it with two 5 amp fuses...I doubt you'll have any problems as your Cobra detector only draws about 2.5 amps peak.

Hope after reading this...you're no longer con-FUSE-d

BlackC230Coupe

LOL, no, i am no longer con-fuse-d.

The only fuses i have are ones that came with the add a curcuit. and it did not come with "2" 5 amp fuses. If i was to use a 3 amp fuse to the slot with the wire to it and a 5 amp to the slot with no wire, will that effect the performance of the radar at all? or will it be to weak? and will it be safe?

Rick

you should be fine with that set up....

(sidenote: this thread has taken a lot more time than the installation will)

BlackC230Coupe

Yes, i diden't think this thread was going to even take up more than 1 page. But i coulden't start the install till i get the hardwire cable anyway. I hope it comes tomarrow. But in the meantime i was glad i was able to have all my questions answered so that the install should be quick and easy.

Thanks for your help.

MB-BOB

Um, I didn't write (one way or the other) whether a fuse was required. I thought we were just dealing with the method to plug the positive wire into the trunk fuse block.

My Bel 980 did indeed come with a fuse in the cigarette plug. So, I had to buy an mini inline fuse holder at Radio Shack, which I spliced into the positive wire as it snaked past the driver's side fuse box on its way to the trunk.

Just to clarify...