Need help installing front speakers
However you might have some problems trying to run your compenent set off of your deck power. The speakers will be seriously underpowered. Deck power generally is only enough to power co-axial speakers or oem speakers. I would suggest getting a seperate amp.
Best is to grab some 1/4" plank or similar material and make a speaker adapter yourself. It's not hard if you have a jigsaw, drill, and/or rotary tool. Just make sure you shave in the lower-left part a bit more, as the door panel comes pretty close to the speaker there.
Although it is pricey stuff, I did find that covering the backside of the exterior door skin and also the interior door frame with Dynamat made for cleaner sound. There was ambient noise from the sound bouncing off all the bare metal inside the door apparently, which had a noticeable impact on clarity.
Good luck with your project!

For what you spent you really don't want to cut corners. Like others have said here, I think you really ought to get an external amplifier to get those Focals to sing.
When you put the speakers in the car you have a few minimums that you need to meet.
First, no gap in the mounting of the speaker to it's base and to the door. You don't want a slight gap to allow the rear wave of the sound to come into contact with the front wave. This creates cancellation and bad sound.
You don't want vibration, so it is best to use a sturdy base to mount the speaker to and then to the door. MDF is what I used. I traced the outline of the plastic speaker mount onto the MDF, Then I made a hole in the MDF to allow the speaker to mount. Then I cut the MDF shape out.
Weather proof your MDF mount by sealing it with multiple coats of paint.
I HUGELY recommend getting a diffuser to put behind the speaker. This is by far what I think makes the biggest difference in how my car sounded. I have made tweaks here and there, but to really get the vocals right, a rear diffuser is the quickest way to get mid tones sounding accurate.
You can Dynamat or Damplifier but, it is a bit of work, and can help with the midbass. But then you'll also need to seal up your door's openings. Lots of effort here.
Once you mount the speaker and the MDF mount to the door, you can use some modeling clay to minimize vibration and add mass to the structure. Think one note, one sound here.
What, you are not done....Get yourself a tuning CD that will allow you to here sounds in phase and out of phase. Just because the instructions on the box say to wire it one way, doesn't mean that will give you the best sound. By playing with the polarity of the tweeters (I'm assuming you have separates), and then the polarity of the woofers you can really dial in the sound to the car's best potential.
I'm going to see if I can find my thread on my door install.
FOUND IT
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...30k-coupe.html
Ed
Last edited by SeaCoupe; Nov 21, 2009 at 12:00 AM.
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For what you spent you really don't want to cut corners. Like others have said here, I think you really ought to get an external amplifier to get those Focals to sing.
When you put the speakers in the car you have a few minimums that you need to meet.
First, no gap in the mounting of the speaker to it's base and to the door. You don't want a slight gap to allow the rear wave of the sound to come into contact with the front wave. This creates cancellation and bad sound.
You don't want vibration, so it is best to use a sturdy base to mount the speaker to and then to the door. MDF is what I used. I traced the outline of the plastic speaker mount onto the MDF, Then I made a hole in the MDF to allow the speaker to mount. Then I cut the MDF shape out.
Weather proof your MDF mount by sealing it with multiple coats of paint.
I HUGELY recommend getting a diffuser to put behind the speaker. This is by far what I think makes the biggest difference in how my car sounded. I have made tweaks here and there, but to really get the vocals right, a rear diffuser is the quickest way to get mid tones sounding accurate.
You can Dynamat or Damplifier but, it is a bit of work, and can help with the midbass. But then you'll also need to seal up your door's openings. Lots of effort here.
Once you mount the speaker and the MDF mount to the door, you can use some modeling clay to minimize vibration and add mass to the structure. Think one note, one sound here.
What, you are not done....Get yourself a tuning CD that will allow you to here sounds in phase and out of phase. Just because the instructions on the box say to wire it one way, doesn't mean that will give you the best sound. By playing with the polarity of the tweeters (I'm assuming you have separates), and then the polarity of the woofers you can really dial in the sound to the car's best potential.
I'm going to see if I can find my thread on my door install.
FOUND IT
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...30k-coupe.html
Ed
thanks so much for the post. I actually ran into the same problem, I removed my stock 6.5 and noticed that there was a huge plastic mount around it that is attached to the stock speaker and doesn't come off. I like how u created the mdf board ring using the stock mount as a template. I think i might try ur method since I want to keep my stock speakers in case i want to put them back in down the road.
I'm a noob at this and i have never installed speakers before in my car, i usually install subs myself and thats about it, so another problem i have is how do I wire the speakers up? I know that the crossover tells u which wires should go into it, but where would the "input" wires go? I was thinking of taping the input wire on to one of the two stock speaker wires that are just hanging, would that work?
also how thick was the mdf that you bought and where would i buy this diffuser? thanks
The Best of Mercedes & AMG

So, I would not use the speaker leads in the door. You can easily buy some new speaker wire and run the wires from your Kenwood deck to the crossover and from the crossover to your speakers.
Now, back to the amplifier situation......If you use an amp then you are simply running RCAs and power/turn on lead/ground to the amp, then amp to the crossovers. Make it a four channel amp and then you are running active. Whoa, propane power there.
I doubled up on the MDF mounts. Two pieces of 3/4" board. screwed together. In hindsight to make it easier, I would have used a base of 1/4" MDF. THe trickiest cuts are at the base because of the mounting points. Then the top part of your MDF rings can be in 3/4."
You will also need some longish bolts and nylon threaded nuts to mount the assembly to the door.
Where are you located? My schedule stinks right now, but if you are in SoCal, I can certainly get you fast tracked with your MDF mounts.
Ed
Please do I am doing this next I have got the subwoofer in there already now just need better speakers in the cabin!
if your worried about the magnet measure the inside clearance and check the specs of the speaker and compare. remember to slide the window down so you know if they hit.
Very cool, I've been considering those as well. The mounting depth for our door is supposed to be 2.5" and the mounting depth for the Pro60se's just makes it at 2-7/16". Unfortunately for me the Focal's have a depth of 2-3/4" making them about 1/4" too deep. I was really hoping to go with Focal, but BA may be a good enough alternative. I'm running a JL 300/4 to the inside speakers and a JL 500/1 to the sub.

Ed
Which exact speakers did you install this way?







